First time at trying to close my pool myself. I just purchased a Cyclone. I plan to airlock the main drain and plug the return lines after blowing them out. My question is what to plug them with. I see two types of plugs among my pool paraphernalia (see photo). One is rubber with a wing nut, the other threaded plastic with an O-ring. Are these plugs basically equivalent and interchangeable (assuming the port I'm closing has the same threading as the plastic plug)?

I gather one silicone lubes the plastic plug if it is used. Is that correct? Is any prep needed for the rubber plug?

I haven't figured out what I am doing with the skimmers yet. I will either get gizzmos for the two skimmers or plug them and put capped empty plastic bottles in them. I have a mesh cover and although I plan to lower below the skimmers, the skimmers are likely to get water in them prior to next year's opening, so I should protect them from freezing water. If I do plug them, what would the forum suggest I use?

Feedback much appreciated.

When we built the pool, I decided against full automation for a variety of reasons including cost, the proprietary nature of available devices, and the fear an expensive system would quickly become obsolete and unsupported. I've seen a few forums members using Raspberry PI and Arduino controllers, but that kind of technology is way above my (retired) pay grade. If your preference is high tech automation or you have programming skills no reason to read on.

I've been kicking around the idea of using a WIFI irrigation controller to control valve actuators and VS pump speeds. Valve actuators require 24 VAC power (same as most irrigation controllers) and draw .75 amps. I purchased four Intermatic valve actuators at a cost of just under $400 and hijacked the Rachio irrigation timer out of the garage. I used Alexa to set up "routines" activated by voice. Routines allow the user to set turn on/off a series of connected devices in succession, with or without pauses. The system worked good, but since an irrigation controller will power only one zone (valve) at a time, transitions between pool, spa, waterfall, and cleaner modes were taking several minutes.

I ended up purchasing two 4-channel WiFi switches at a cost of about $22 each. Through the Ewelink Smart Home app, each channel is recognized by Alexa as an individual device. The module is powered by hardwired 7-32 volts AC/DC or USB 5 volts. Since my system already used a 24 VAC transformer to power the Intellicomm II Interface Adapter, I used this to power both the modules and the valve actuators. When purchasing a power source, choose one that puts out 24 VAC power and can handle the amperage draw of all valves combined.

I've included a photo of the relay board below. Each valve actuator can be run in both directions off one relay. Each relay has three connections: Common (24 VAC power), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The actuators have three connections. The black lead goes to the other side of the AC power. The other two actuator leads (red and white) power the valve in separate directions. One lead goes to NC and the other to NO. When power is shut off, the motor turns one way and when powered up, it turns the other way. A limit switch in the actuator cuts power to the motor when the valve reaches it's resting position.

The Intellicomm II Interface Adapter installed in my system allowed external control of four pump speeds via the Intelliflo VS data cable. I had two inputs wired to mechanical timers and two to rocker switches in the load center. I wired into two of the four inputs and connected each to an individual relay on the second 4-channel Wifi switch. Each is recognized by Alexa as a device (Pump Low Speed and Pump Med Speed). I left alone two of the mechanical timer and switch inputs on the Intellicomm, but may connect them to the open relays in the future.

I named my valves "Pool Return" "Pool Suction" "Cleaner" and "Waterfall". When "Pool Return" is set to ON, water goes to the pool. When OFF, water goes to the spa. When "Pool Suction" is set to ON, water comes from the pool. When OFF, water comes from the spa. Same idea holds true for the two remaining valves.

I programmed four individual routines in the Alexa app, Pool Mode, Spa Mode, Waterfall Mode, and Cleaner mode. I included a screenshot of the Pool Mode program below. The first three modes above are intended for use when the pool is in use. Modes can be changed through Alexa by voice or by buttons in the routines section of the app. I found the system operates flawlessly, so far. I'm gonna work on daily schedules, but for now, the pump will remain on the reliable mechanical timer or an internal pump program.

I used a Rachio outdoor enclosure ($30) to house the switches and mounted it above my load center. The relays have four manual switches which correspond with the relay assignments...something that may come in handy for manual control of individual valves or pump speeds. The WiFi switch I purchased also comes with a remote (a bit of a novelty). Each button can be programmed to control on/off functions of several relays. It won't get much use.

I know this won't be everyone's cup of tea, but it works out great for my needs. Total cost (excluding the actuators) was about under $100. Add to that a few bucks for a 24VAC transformer and you have full automation of the valves. Pump control is dependent upon your own set up.

app is crashing when trying to sync

Hey all- my first post, so please be gentle.

First time pool owner, got a Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus a couple months ago. Think it’s been doing a pretty good job (I have no experience with others)- I know it cleans debris off the bottom very well.
That said, when there’s an algae bloom (like now) it doesn’t appear to really scrub the floor/walls so much as I hoped. I can see it leaves wheel tracks, but the machine-length scrubbers don’t seem to really be making good contact. (See image). Are they not reaching the floor?

FWIW: vinyl lined, 46’ L pool.

I had code 000F showing all day yesterday, and spent quite a while trying to figure it out.

000F is a low voltage indicator for this pump. I seen a couple of other posts asking about this code but in my opinion did not see anything that was a real resolution.

First problem, I disassembled the plug itself, and found that ants made a nest inside the plug. I shook that out and cleaned it out and reassembled the plug.

Second problem, after turning off the breaker of course, I took apart the outlet box. Once I took the front cover off, a ton of brown water can pouring out of the box itself. I'm fairly certain that was the issue lol.

I left it open and allowed the outlet box to dry out.

After about an hour, I plugged my pump back in and it worked. This might not be the problem for all but hopefully this tip helps.

I have a Raypak 206a that I installed in Aug 2022. About a week before closing the pool, it started leaking. Is supposed to be a 2 year warranty but I couldn't get Raypak to respond to me, nor could I get anyone to come out since I installed it myself. So... I opened it up and could see water coming up from where one of the heat exchanger tubes goes into the end plate. I have a video but apparently can't post those here. I took the header off and I can see what looks like a slit of some sort that I assume is causing the leak. See the picture. I assume it was a manufacturing flaw that worked through the adhesive.
I am thinking a little bit of Liquid Steel Epoxy would solve the issue but wanted to run it by the forum. I really don't want to spend $800 for a new heat exchanger. Thanks!

So my pool is going in in about 3 weeks...I live in Ct so even tho I have a heater it will be too cold so I'm assuming they will install and then close the pool??
I'm getting a swg but I'm assuming I don't add any salt this year and just wait until spring? Hiw do you all handle fall installs with swg pools?

I help maintain an indoor pool for our HOA. We are getting a good amount of DE in the pool recently. The company that services the pool charges $175 for an annual inspection and cleaning of the DE filter. They were notified of the problem with DE getting into the pool and sent us an estimate for $420. $175 for filter cleaning seems reasonable. Would replacing grids increase the cost to $420.? And this is before they even know if any grids are damaged or how many need to be replaced. Just trying to get a sense if this seems to be fair pricing. Thanks for any input on this.

Over the past few years the suction at my skimmer has gradually dropped, along with the water flow (visible in my SWCG cell). Pump primes normally, but no longer completely removes all the air from the pump basket, although no additional bubbles show. Filter pressure was once about 20 psi with fresh DE, rising to 25 to 30 psi before the next cleaning. It is now about 15 psi max. I have no automatic pool cleaner, only manual vacuum - which isn't frequently required as I have a motorized vinyl cover which prevents most debris from entering pool. However, the effectiveness of vacuuming has dropped significantly, to where I have to vacuum the same areas multiple times to pick up the dirt on the bottom of the pool. To keep my SWCG cell full of water I now have to run the pump at full speed (3000 rpm) 100% of the time. If I reduce the speed to say, 2000 rpm, the SWCG cell doesn't fill enough to be effective. The performance appears to be identical whether the pool or the spa is selected, leading me to believe any postulated blockage is between the pool/spa selector Ortega valve and the pump.

I have read countless threads here about related issues and have (to the best of my ability) ruled out a suction side air leak. Running water over the pump basket lid, over the pipes and fittings leading to the pump (including the Ortega valve near the spa). Remaining potential causes seem to be: 1) might have a partial blockage in the suction line, or 2) the diffuser or impeller in my pump has accumulated debris, or has damage that has reduced its pumping ability. I don't believe the pump sounds any differently now than previously when everything was working fine. The pump is no longer able to empty skimmer if I hold the weir flapper up to restrict the flow into the skimmer from the pool. (Water flows around the sides of the flapper faster than the pump can remove it.) If I remove the pump basket drain plug while pump is running, the suction felt there by my finger is very weak. This leads me to think the pump is partially clogged or damaged.

1) I have used my shop vac to blow the suction line from the pump back to the skimmer, where the water in the line then sprays up out of the skimmer. If I blow from the skimmer, then the water flows into the pump basket freely. I tried to suck a waxed string (with a 1/2" wooden ball tied on) into the skimmer using the pool pump. I allowed about 70' of string (my best guess at total suction line length) into the skimmer but never saw the ball in the pump basket. Upon pulling the string back out (with the pump off) it appeared that the string got all tangled up and tied in a mess about 15-20' into the suction line. I think this is probably just beyond the Ortega valve that selects between the pool and the spa. Maybe something there catches the string, not letting it continue the remaining 50-60 feet. I have not yet tried flushing the line with water using a Drain King type bladder. I can easily fill the pump basket by running a garden hose into the skimmer.
I bought an inexpensive 50' drain camera, but was unable to get it past the first 90 degree elbow from either end. Note that the pool/spa Ortega selector valves are located in a vault below ground level. I could remove the guts from the Ortega valve to get "closer" to the pump, but since these valves are below the pool water level, the dirt bottom vault will fill with water once I do ( not a non-starter, but not ideal).

2) Problem with the pump. I ordered the o-rings, drain plugs and seal for my pump from INYO Pools preemptively before opening the pump. My first question here is, can I get to and examine the diffuser and impeller without disturbing the seal? In any case, I am planning to shut of the power and separate the pump so I can examine the diffuser and impeller for debris or damage.

Anybody have any thoughts or suggestions? I can take some additional photos (and maybe a sketch of the entire hookup) of my plumbing. Note that having the solar panels (mounted on my roof) turned on or off doesn't appear to affect the performance I've described.

Thanks in advance!
Dale

Hello everyone. I got it in my head to put an inground pool in my house, and I was lucky to find this group....I am hoping someone can guide me on what to use to backfill around the walls (I purchased a steel wall vinyl liner inground pool) . I am attempting to price out the installation cost , and I think I have a handle on the other areas, but I am struggling to figure the material to backfill behind the walls. I know that I CAN'T use the dirt that I excavated, but some people say gravel, others sand, others big rocks............ what is the best to use????? thank you in advance

I've had great success with the PoolMath and following TFP since my new pool was filled about two months ago. I have an IC60 and would like to convert to using it.

My pool is clear and balanced and a CSI today of 0.1.

What is the method/procedures and best practice to do the conversion?

Thx.

I have a Cornelius / Capri pool the specs say 15x31x52, and I need to replace my liner and have some backfilling fixed (see a previous thread where my liner is sinking due to washout from poor backfilling ). I looked at my pool quote (from 2018) and it says "Pacific Diamond 15x30 Unibead 52". Pretty sure it's not Pacific Diamond, its Boulder Swirl. But when the pool contractor came out to look at my pool, they said it was an overlap liner (see photo below of the liner install on my pool). Looks like overlap? I've like our liner (it's just the wife and I), and it's held up good I think.

Is it only Swimline who make these Boulder Swirl like we have right now? I would like to get a thicker liner (20, 25mil), but all I can find on the Swimline is 20 gauge, which is less than the 20,25mil. Or will the 20 gauge still be fine? If my current one is 20 gauge it seems to have done fine....?




Can any pool liner be replaced with a Unibead liner? Do I need to make sure my Capri pool can accept a Unibead / beaded liner? I did find this in my pool install manual




And photo of current pool liner installed ---- Overlap? --------------- thanks for any help!!!

Hey there knowledgable folks of TFP. I've done tons of great quality of life upgrades to my pool since buying my house 1.5 years ago. Invested in a Dolphin cleaner, got a Betta bot surface cleaner (tons of trees on my property), upgraded my Aqualink RS touchpanel to the iAqualink App, got a new Pentail Intelliflo VSF 3HP pump. Things are going great but with Chlorine prices rising and my time becoming more limited with work and new family (baby on the way) I'm really trying to reduce my maintenance overhead and am ready to take the plunge on installing a SWG.

I've watched a few videos, and I consider myself pretty handy....I've done some of my own renovations on the house, redid my garage, epoxied the floor, drywalled and painted, general repairs around the house. I've never really done much with the pool or plumbing though. Based on the videos i've watched, the installation of a SWG seems fairly straightforward but i'd love to hear from you all, especially if you installed yourself, what you would recommend? In my experience, it the jobs that seem straightforward that tend to get complicated really fast, and I really want to avoid doing anything to mess up my pool equipment.

I've even watched some videos on pool plumbing basics, making sure there's 12 inches of clearance on the intake side, how to adhere properly, etc etc. Am I asking for a world of hurt trying to DIY install just to save 2/300 bucks in labor getting a pro to do it? Thanks!!

So I'm back to this problem , more and more frequently now. Cleaning baskets and filters always fixed the issue before , but now we just did the filters 2 weeks ago and the pressure is normal , flow appears normal, no bubbling . Heater wont start sw open. We also get hi limit fault as well , since we've gotten the heater. I know folks say it's a flow problem , but there is no bypass and this is a 2 hp pump, puts out a lot of water. I'm at a loss what to check next ? Any ideas , getting cool and need the heater to not be ou tof commision.

Thanks !!

My pool for the most part has been very clean and clear thanks to following the TFP way, however I have noticed that whenever I open the cover, there is a film on the surface of the water that looks like it could be algae (or something else?). I tried to capture it in some pictures. It goes away after the cover has been open for 5-10 minutes, and there are no other signs of algae in the pool.

Any ideas what this could be and how i can get rid of it? I am guessing that there is a film of algae or something on the bottom of the cover, but it seems that even high FC doesn’t do anything to it.

Hi. I’m so excited I found out about TFP! I ordered the pro salt kit and speedstir.
Please bear with me. I just installed a new Hayward W3T-CELL-15. The pool equipment was programmed by the previous owner of my house. I have a 25,000 gallon pool and spa. It’s a dark colored cement/plaster.
This is probably the best place to start ; The chlorinator is set to 80%. My filter and cleaner are on 8 hours a day. I live in Texas so it’s hot!
what should the salt cell be programmed to? How many hours a day? It says super chlorinator is off?
If I have the equipment programmed correctly I can go from there

Most of the way through a new VINYL pool install. For the coping/decking we are doing poured concrete. Our PB wants to do a 12" coping and a separate pour for the wider decking. Coping is cantilevered (styrofoam) forms.

The questions are:
1) Should the perpendicular rebar be stubbed out of the 12" coping and made continuous into the decking? (I believe it should).

2) At the construction joint created between the two, should that joint get a foam expansion material with caulk? Or just pour the decking right up against the coping? Of maybe poured up against the coping but with a thin plastic bond breaker? Something else??

NOTE that the pool walls are steel with a 5" top steel "collar". There is angle bracing about every 5-6' all the way around the pool which will bridge BOTH the coping and the decking. i.e. there will be equal support for the coping and about the first 2' of decking.
There is no concrete bond beam at the top of the pool.

No questions on the bonding, I can sort that out regardless of the solutions above.

Thanks in advance!

Now the pool filter pump comes on on the light circuit alo g with the po filter pump. Filter pump should be on the 1st one labeled filter pump. I don't know if it is a circuit name, circuit function or what. Any help would be appreciated.

I have been having a lot of trouble keeping my chlorine up the last couple days.. My first thought is unseen algae. But when my levels started to drop, they never went below the safe range for my pool. So I should not have been growing any algae. My other thought is that the liquid chlorine bottle I had may have lost its potency. I cracked a new one tonight to see if results are the same. I’m hoping that’s all it is. I also swapped in my second set of filters. The ones in there were a little dirty. I just don’t know why algae would grow when my levels never got lower than 4. Other contaminants maybe. With the recent rain, I did have to remove some worms that had been in there.

Just wondering if main drain is connected to spa or skimmer line. When valve in pic is to the left it sucks from the spa, right it sucks from the skimmer. I know the valve underneath increases vacuum suction.
How do I know where my main drain is connected to?
I also have a return jet in my pool that doesn't have any water coming through it, is this by design?

Hello all,
So we got our 24' above ground pool this year. For winter closing im leaning toward buying one of the tight mesh covers that will allow rain/ snow to run through. I was planning on also just kind of pulling that fairly tight, and shrink wrap. Of course lowering water level below skimmer and return jet, no pillow. Is there something that you suggest I do differently? Thanks!

Brand New Member Here.

We are seriously thinking about installing a fiberglass pool. We are talking with a couple of installers about installing a sump tube and overflow. The installers say the sump tube must be manually monitored, and if water rises a sump can be lowered to remove the water. They also suggest a pump for the cover, when the pool is closed, to remove excess water from heavy rain and snow, if needed. ALL these options require us to manually inspect and hookup/plug in a pump if required, but we will not be there to do that.

My main concern is that, the pool will be closed for approx 6 months of the year. What happens when we close the pool and lower the water, then over the course of six months we receive a lot of snow and rain and the water level in the pool rises? Is there potential or damage? Will the overflow be able to handle this, and if so what happens when the sump fills up?

They say we really have no worries; the sump is for removing water if the pool needs to be drained for repairs, and any excess water from snow and rain will just run off and should not cause any issues. This really doe not sound correct to me.

Any information and recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Hi, sorry for bumping an old thread. Any thoughts about chlorine vs bromine for a new mikvah?

Was hoping for advice on how to handle the below situation. Pool is a Capri Resin/Steel 15x31x52 with a Unibead52 liner (pretty sure I ordered the thickest liner available). Pool was installed in May 2018. Over the past couple years I've noticed a couple of areas where pool floor was sinking (at pool floor - wall & it seems to be at the vertical pool supports).

Well this summer as you can see from the photos below, I've noticed where the floor has sunken about 2 inches and now is stretching the liner against the pool hardware. In the last month it's gotten worse (as you can see in the photos).

Did the installer not compact the sand enough in these areas and now it's sinking? Can I put a patch over this current problem area (any underwater patch recommendations?). Or is this a ticking time bomb and I am looking at a new liner/compacted sand by next spring?

Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, We live in the SF Bay Area and are planning to put in a new pool, our current plans do not include a spa because we live in a home without a gas line. Due to our current city ordinances we can’t add a new gas line either. We are planning to install solar heating for the pool. My question is, should I alter my plans to put in a spa and get a heat pump instead of solar heating? I’m fully aware that the current state of heat pumps don’t really work well for a hot tub, but I’m wondering if the tech will get better in the next few years allowing for a better spa experience. Essentially, I’m wondering if I should add a spa now, when it’s cheapest, and wait for the heat pump tech to catch up, or if I’m just deluding myself into getting a subpar spa? Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

I’m running a brand-new Hayward SP1580 Power-Flo LX Pump with S180T Sand Filter and SP0714T1 Multivalve on a 24-foot above ground pool.

I keep having the same problem, since it has been installed about 6 weeks ago: Within a few hours, the water flow out of the return jet is dropping to almost zero. After back washing it runs fine and starts slowing down again a few hours later. It seems like there is air collecting in the Sand Filter and it’s not being pushed out the return pipe.

I have checked everything and there is definitely no air leak in any of the pipes or seals, the skimmer baskets are clean, the impeller is not blocked, the pool water level is at 2/3 of the return and I cleaned the pump, all the pipes, the Sand Filter and replaced the Sand.

This is my theory: The pump is pumping too fast and sucking air through the skimmer basket into the pump and collecting it in the Sand Filter. (I can see little bubbles going through the pump) The Sand Filter does not have an air valve and does not seem to be able to push the air through the return hose into the pool.

1st solution: I reduced the water flow on the return side ball valve. This reduces the water suction and it’s not drawing in bubbles anymore. - I have tried this for the past 12 hours and it finally seems to be running fine.

2nd solution: replace the long return-hose (that came with the Pump and Filter) and is currently running from the top of the Sand Filter down to the Ground and back up to the Pool, with a shorter hose that doesn’t have the up and down resistance anymore so it’s going to be able to push out the air in the Sand Filter. I’m still waiting for the new hose to be delivered, so I can finally test it.

I am new at all this pool stuff, this has been a horrible first pool season and I hope someone, who knows more about this than I do can help me out ! ! !

Hello - I wanted to get the boards thoughts/recommendations on Fish Tape for installing my Colorlogic lights. My 3 old lights died and I was able to get the first two replaced by tying a pull line to old light wire. I was able to get the old light out and the pull wire along with it but when i was pulling the wire for the new light back in the pull line broke about 3/4ths of the way through(technically it was just a bad job taping the pull line to the Pool wire) so i planned on buying a Fish Tape. The run is just under 90ft with what i believe are a couple 90 degree turns. Just want to make sure i get the best tape for the job and have seen there are fiberglass, metal, polymer, etc.
Thanks!

About 5 months ago I removed and cleaned with vinegar the electrodes on my Intex SWG for my Intex 18x9 pool. Now the majority of bubbles is coming from the first electrode and little from the second or output electrode. Is this acceptable or did I do something wrong in the reinstallation. Thanks in advance for your responses. BTW I am located in Trinidad and Tobago. Lots of sunshine and rain.

Attached are my pool math readings for the past five days. I added 31%muriatic acid a day before the first reading in the attachment.

My ta is between 50 & 60 which you all say to round up. I will be closing the pool relatively soon so I want to get the chemicals fully balanced. I want to raise TA to 70. Pool math suggested using baking powder ( sodium bicarbonate).

Should I use that or point my return jets up to aerate?

And my CSI. Is almost always below -60. Is that a problem? I’m thinking it is primarily because I keep my ph at 7.2 to 7.6

Greetings all,

I am planning to build an outdoor pool in the middle east (i.e. hot and harsh weather).
The pool total volume is ~45000 Liters. It consists of a long section with a shallow side where both pour water via a short waterfall (0.35m) into the overflow section as shown in the picture and attached PDF below.
The overflow channel is U-shaped around the overflow section with a total length of 8m by 0.4m wide by ~0.5m deep (total volume of ~1600 Liters).
The overflow balance tank will be located underground (tank floor is -1m to -2m) in the Yellow area, which is ~7m away from the pump/filter room in the Green area, with a no/minimal elevation difference of 0.2m (ceiling of the tank to the floor of the room).
The pump and sand filter will be Pentair. The plumbing is either 2" or 2.5" CPVC.

What horsepower do I need for my pump? Single, multiple, or variable speed?
What sand filter size do you recommend?

Does it make sense if my pool contractor recommended 2 Pentair pumps (3HP each with a single 36" sand filter): one for filtration and another for the return? Why?

Bounce question: is it possible to connect a 5m long by 2.7m high smooth waterfall, which is ~5m away from the pool and ~9m away from the pump room, to the pool system? How?

Thank you all in advance!


Regards,

Mohannad