I have had this Pentair Warrior SE for about one year. My Issues:

- Its not smart at all it stays on the pool sides and/or limited areas and leaves large swaths across the pool bottom dirty.
- I am constantly having to manually do a 2 hr clean reset several times a day and it still does not hit all the surfaces (32x16 ft pool)
- It hangs up on the main drains
- The cord is always tangling up restricting access to corners of the pool. Its a PITA to untangle every week.
- When it finally breaks I am going back to my suction PoolCleaner which I have at my other pool and does a great job.
-I don't like the cord and prefer just the white suction hose for a clean look.
- Its not worth the money just a piece of junk and parts are very expensive.

New Tristar SP32950VSP pump installed. Just want to be sure I’m understanding Dip Switch settings correctly for communication with my ProLogic PL-PS-16. The Prologic will be controlling the 950. What should those setting be?

I have a vacation home. I do not live there M-F. I have a friend who helps me keep the pool balanced by adding chlorine tabs and shocking when necessary. I don’t want him to have to do to much as I’m sure it’s a pain for him. I balance the pool and top up chlorine Sunday evening before we leave. He comes Wednesday and Friday to check and add.

I would really like to install a reliable bullet proof system to :

Allow me to monitor FC levels and adjust a swg over Wi-Fi.

I have a single speed pump what the advantage of going to a VS pump ?

Added bonus would be If I could monitor PH,TA, CH ,Cya

Thanks for the recommendations. All my current equipment is listed in my signature.

If you have a set you your recommending please let me know how long you have had it, any issues and how you solved them, how the manufacture has been in terms of helo if needed or tech support, what your regular Maintence was and if you don’t mind the hardware cost and install labor cost.

I’m a diy guy but electrical and plumping are not my strengths.

Thanks

Hi all. My pool has been rock solid until very recently. All levels are pretty spot on, but all of a sudden the water is causing eye irritation. I can't figure out what it is. One person suggested that the non-chlorine oxidizing shock I use might be causing it because some people can be sensitive to it. It's not combined chlorine because it's between 0 and .2. Ph is just right at 7.8. All other numbers are on point. Any help would be appreciated.

12k Above ground
Taylor k-2006 for testing
use NST (non-stabilized chlorine tabs) and liquid chlorine. Use non-chlorine oxidizing shock once a week.
have a poolRX in
Try to keep chlorine at 1 - 1.5 (recommended by poolRX) - chlorine is higher now because I shocked with chlorine shock to try and fix

Free Chlorine - 4.6
Combined Chlorine - 0
pH - 7.8
Total alkalinity - 100
Calcium Hardness - 165
CYA - 43
Copper - .2
CSI - .07
Water temp - 89

I was hoping to add pentair 690019 landscape lights to my yard but it seems nearly impossible to purchase them. Does anyone know if the intellitouch panel will control 3rd party lights?

Weird, but simple question...
My pentair pool pump control panel cover keeps popping open likely from the wind....
Anyone else have this issue?
Any easy solution to keep it shut?

I have a question. Is there any point to doing OCLT if you have tons of leaves/seeds falling into the pool...thats a known consumer of chlorine. I get tons of dead algae every day but I imagine if I slam, it wouldn't matter because new Crud is just going to fall in every day...

TIA

I swim tethered in my 21foot agp and find that I generate a lot of current. If I time it right, I get some pretty good sized waves. So I got to thinking, what if I could divert the current so that it was all directed to return to my head end. I'd need some kind of barrier that I could sink into the water and preferably remove easily so that I could take it out when the kids wanted to swim.

I need ideas for what to make the barriers out of.
Below is a sketch of my design idea.


Or maybe even just the two walls like this:


Do you think the extra curved walls would add anything?

I also figure I'd orient it so that the pump input is at my head.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Found a reference to this forum from a reddit post so figured I would join and check it out. I currently have an in ground pool being built with a jacuzzi. We don't have a large backyard and the pool itself is only 11'x29.5'

I opted for a salt water generator and heater. Funds got kind of tight so I decided not to get decking installed but may reach out to some concrete companies as, at a minimum, I want a concrete footer (unless other recommendations?) to mount a pool fence I had purchased. I don't want any accidents with toddlers running around.

I am requesting the model number of the pump being used because I just found out that the old single speed pumps apparently can use up to 2500kW of power which I thought was initially a joke. It seems like they have discontinued use of them though so I am hoping that it is a variable speed pump.

I grew up with family having pools but never having one myself and living in a city where the wind in the Summer can burn your face off, I wanted to have something for my family and friends to enjoy.

Which products are safe use to lower and raise ph with the poolrx?

My alkalinity is almost zero, and my Ph is 8 or a little more. I know I can add baking soda to raise the alk., but I don't want to raise the Ph at the same time. Suggestions?
- Also, what product do I use to lower the Ph? Any help is welcome!

My pool's fill water has very high TA (320+) and I've been considering adding Borates to the pool. Mostly for the water feel effects (silkiness, sparkles) since I use an automatic pH dispenser to keep pH at the right level.

Due to the fill water I can't get my TA lower than 100. Using MA I get pH to 7, but with new water constantly getting in the pool (due to evaporation and general splashing) it is pretty much impossible to get it to the lower end of the range as recommended on the Borates page. Can I disregard this and add the boric acid to the pool?

I am battling green algae and am preparing to SLAM. I just bought a FAS-DPD test kit, my PH is at 7.2 but my CYA is 100. The chlorine CYA chart says that slam is not recommend if the CYA is over 70. Question: Do I keep draining the pool to try and lower the CYA (and keep adding muricate acid to maintain the PH level) or go ahead and raise the FC (currently at 7) to the recommend levels with the CYA this high? What should I do? 20,000 gal gunite pool in south Texas. Hard water, high PH. lots of sun. thank you.

Hi all,

New to the forum. Appreciate all the info here. Ran into a "glitch" with the pool build. Using an independent guy so mostly same crew outside of gunite and tile so far which is great.

However, the new concrete coping (14x24x2) was transported by builder's guy but unloaded mostly by tile guys in a wheelbarrow (not smart). Tile guys got about 3/4 of the way installed and it was off the hook chipped, scratched and serious uneven/rough edges. I had builder come look the next day and he agreed it wasn't good. I pulled all the coping (since no employees were available and need to hit that before thinset set up too much, right??). Builder thinks the concrete was also too fresh. The lead time for us to get them was 3 weeks.

New plan is to cut each side to remove chips/rounded edges and re-install (obviously now cut them all for uniform runs since they have to be cut anyway). And sand/slightly bevel the bottom inside and bottom outside edges to hopefully remove the chips and allow for less bleeding in the pool.

Question: is it normal for precast to be this bad? Is it just the nature of concrete? I know cutting both ends will solve the crushed corners but there is rarely one without deep scratches (that 320 grit won't remove) or round swirly marks. We will try to put the worse ones in back but that is becoming a competition. Will some of that get better after it's sealed?

Thank you in advance, I appreciate it.

I had algae and was able to clear that up but now my water is cloudy blue. my levels are:
PH 7.5 - Total chlorine 10 - Free Chlorine 3 - Alkalinity 120 - CYA 40 - hardness 200
I know I need to get my hardness up. I used a clarifier (no difference after 25 hours), and I use a skimmer sock (it turns green after 4-5 hours and I wash it and change it). I have been battling this for a week now. I do not want to go to the pool store and be sold more chemicals that do nothing. What to do now?

I had my Hayward Aquarite T15 replaced Friday and had a new flow sensor installed as well, as the only one was leaking and malfunctioning.

The new flow sensor is showing flow on the control even when the pump is turned off. If I unplug it, the control immediately reads NO FLOW. When I plug it back in, it flashes for a bit and then indicates flow.

I tried troubleshooting it by plugging in a phone wire not connected to anything and it showed no flow. That would seem to suggest the problem is not the board, but rather the sensor.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Hi
Two weeks ago I got a low salt message on my SWG and no chlorine production. I did a test confirmed salt level was fine. I then took the generator apart to clean the cell - I did acid wash 1pt muriaric acid 4pt water (I did not see any bubbles?) Put it all back together and everything was great - for 2 weeks. Now I see the same warning lights and cl level has dropped low so no generation.
Any suggestions? I think my cell is 3 or 4 years old.

Going on my 6th season and never had this problem. My FC is a little high, CYA a little high, alkaline/PH about normal. But i've had excessive cloudy water this season. I bought some cheap knock off pool filters, thought maybe that was the culprit but I"m not sure. Ordered an OE filter 'Hayward' and just put it in and going to run the pump for the night.

Any ideas off the cuff. I didn't run every test . I'm using liquid bleach, stuff from Menards - same stuff I've been using the past 5 years.

Hi everyone - I am switching to salt and understand the pricing right now for the IC60 Kit (with power) is inflated. To set a baseline, can you give me an idea what you paid and when? Right now I'm seeing prices range from $1,799 - $1,899. I purchased the IntelliConnect for $389 (no shipping/tax) yesterday - seemed like a good deal.

Thanks!

I built a pergola over my driveway at my last property which spanned 22 feet, so I believe I can span my 18.5’ wide pool without issue, especially if I use knee braces, my last pergola didn’t use knee braces and wasn’t sagging.

anyone see issue with attaching posts to bond beam?

Here is the pergola I previously built

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Guess who’s frustrated with their pool?!? A little about my situation: Moved to a new house with a pool and zero experience. Anticipated the company that does opening and closing would explain a few things, but no. Moronically paid for “pool school” to learn as much as possible, huge waste of money. That guy was literally, LITERALLY, driving away as I rattled off questions as fast as I could remember them. Got duped into thinking the local pool store had my best interest in mind and was sold plenty of useless chemicals. I hear the phrase “yeah, you’re gonna have to run tabs” in my nightmares. Finally managed to get the chemistry balanced 3 weeks after opening, dumb luck I presume. All seemed well for a few weeks there, but now I can’t seem to keep any chlorine in the mix. Brought a water sample in, got a pile of info on high phosphates with a list of instructions for cleaning the filter cartridges twice over. Figured I needed a better way and found this site by recommendation. Finally ordered my own test kit and hope to get this thing right for the final month of summer. Good grief, I needed a rant. Hours of fun and relaxation indeed! Now I plan to read up on low chlorine levels and if phosphates actually “eat” chlorine as I was told.

Nearing the end of our 12 month build. The plumbers just set the equipment today. We have a 12k gallon gunite pool with spa. I think they are still missing the spa blower, but can you experts take a look and let me know if anything looks off? At this point, I don’t have a ton of confidence in our PB.

My Aquapure 1400 recently started showing both the cell resting and cell reversing lights on at the same time, and they tend to stay on together unless in boost mode. Any suggestion what may be causing this condition and if it's time to replace the flow senor?

Hi All,

I recently closed on a house with a swimming pool and have never had one before, I’ve been doing my research for a few weeks and found TFP which has been really helpful.
I ordered the TF100 test kit which got delivered today. The pool is covered in algae and currently probably has no chlorine in it, there is a dedicated vacuum port on the side of the pool with a vacuum plugged into it. The skimmer has only one pipe opening in it and there are only two pipes going into the pump. It’s worth mentioning too that the pool has a floating weir skimmer and I bought a replacement basket for it today as the old one was completely broken. The pool definitely needs re-plastering as well which I’m planning to do within the next two months or so. I’ve attached a few pics to the post as well and I’m really hoping you can help me with the below questions I have. The plan is to slam the pool asap but I need to deep clean the sand filter first, determine the plumbing is working correctly and test the water.

Here are my questions so far:

• One pipe is for the vacuum and the other for the skimmer going into the pump. Which pipe is for the main drain? Is it tied into the skimmer pipe or the vacuum pipe? Is there any way I can tell it’s got suction aside from getting in the pool?
• Should I keep my vacuum in the pool and the valve open on the pipe to it all the time or only when I want to use it and have the valve closed on the vacuum and fully open on the skimmer when I’m not vacuuming? Assuming the skimmer pipe is indeed the drain pipe as well. Also, worth mentioning that the dedicated vacuum port in the pool has a spring-loaded cap on it.
• My waste pipe seems to go into the ground, any way of me finding out where it goes, I did a backwash and couldn’t see where the water was going to?
• I wanted to do a deep clean of the sand filter, given my current setup am I going to be able to unscrew it from the pipes as i see a couple unions, one on the pump as well?

I have algae in the pool and it needs plastering so my plan of action is as follows:

1. Deep clean sand filter
2. Test water
3. SLAM the pool and get it back to normal swimming levels again
4. Once that’s done do another deep clean of the sand filter
5. Start getting quotes for plastering
6. Potentially change out my sand filter for a cartridge or de filter
7. Buy a robot cleaner

Are my priorities above in the right order or have I got them mixed up?

Any and all advice and feedback is welcome and I appreciate you taking the time to look through this

Thanks!

*Edit: I noticed from the pics you cant see but there is also a union on the waste pipe which runs behind the filter

I work in IT so this hit on both sides for me. Not really pool chemistry related but definitely "deep end". Linus is a very respected tech content creator.

(178) They told me I was stupid - heating my pool with computers - YouTube

Hello! Looking for some help regarding expected PSI changes under a manifold.

We are building a new pool and in the plumbing stage. The plumbing is all in place (connected to filter/pump) and we passed the city inspection. One thing to note that prior to the inspection, we had a leak at the filter gauge that the PB came back to fix and after re-pressurizing, we found another leak in the O ring of the pump. On the third try, the PB pressurized right before the inspector came over and passed holding at 30 PSI for 10 mins. I had some concerns as I noticed the pressure had dropped from 30 to 26 overnight (3:00 PM, measured again 7:22 AM next day). I brought this up to the PB and he said this was expected as there is areas in the equipment that will naturally lose pressure (eg O ring, connections). Is this true? If so, how much can you expect to lose through the equipment?

I was not comfortable with the PB explanation and was afraid there was slow leak somewhere. The PB disconnected the pipes from equipment and created a manifold and pressurized to 32 PSI (11:11 AM). The PB said the pressure should remain the same with small changes expected from the skimmer (1-2 PSI) since the connection is threaded. Over the last 2 days, I noticed the PSI to change (table below)

Question to TBF folks (thank you!!): what PSI loss can I expect under a manifold? We are located in Southern California where the temperature is moderate (high 85, low 65). How much PSI loss is expected through the skimmer? Also through equipment?

I have a best way 15’x42” and I’m filling it up, as I go around making sure all the legs are level, I keep running into an issue where I pull out one leg and the leg next to slides in

My pool was without a pump for 5 days and turned a beautiful green color! Finally got the pump installed on Tuesday and started the slam, including changing the DE 2 x/day. Today it's crystal clear and I haven't lost any chlorine since yesterday morning. The FC level is still high and Ph is also high. Should I start trying to bring down the Ph or wait awhile longer for the FC level to drop more?

Right now my numbers are: FC 10 Ph 8.2 TA 120 CYA 35 and its all sun and 90 degrees.

Thanks so much for all of the knowledge I've gained here!

I recently installed some solar panels (DIY). I thought I had everything up and running correctly, but now not sure. The valve to divert to solar appears to work correctly and turns on/off based on the solar temperature setting. However, I noticed today that when the pool gets close to the pool setpoint temperature, the controls/valve keep cycling in and out of solar mode as the water temperature fluctuates slightly around the set temp. I have the Start and Run in the solar settings at 6 deg and 3 deg. I believe these are the deadbands for when solar starts/stops (for example when there is cloud cover and solar temperature drops). Is there another desdband setting somewhere for the actual pool temperature setting so that the solar doesn’t keep cycling on/off when it reaches setpoint? Thanks.

Is there a preferred 3/8" float valve that works without subtle hiss/fill never fully closing? Using a MP Industries autofill.

Tried the Stetson Development Inc Pool Pond Spa Water Leveler PVC Auto Fill 3/8" Float Valve but after a couple months doesn't fully shut off even after multiple adjustments.

Curious what others have success with when replacements….