It tends to get stuck between the “floor” area and the seat, raised at a 45* angle. Has anyone else ever had a situation like this? It may just be that my seat is the perfect size to create the issue, but I thought it was worth checking.

3rd summer owning a pool. The first year, before I found TFP, was a catastrophe. These past two years have been great. Moved completely to LC and no issues. Since I haven’t used tabs in a couple of years, I try to stay in tune with CYA levels. The weird thing is I measured it a couple of weeks ago using my TF-100 and it was mid 20’s, which seemed legit since I haven’t been adding any. So, I kept my FC between the levels denoted in pool math. I noticed some algae growth and decided to get a 2nd opinion on CYA level so I ran it by the pool store yesterday. They measured it at 48 which is wayyy off. I know it’s a subjective test but are there any tips or best practices for making this more accurate? Normally, I wouldn’t believe the pool store, but with the algae growth, it kinda makes sense. Also, the head scratcher is how do I still have that much CYA in there when I’ve added nothing but LC for the past summer and a half? Help would be appreciated.

Hi,

I just moved to a house that has a salt water pool. Unfortunately, I have zero experience with caring for pools, but hoping to figure it out with some help. I saw the suggestion on this website to get a TF-100 test kit, and just used it on my pool. Considering the results and that this is a salt water pool, what chemicals do I need to buy and how much of them should I add to the pool to get my numbers back to normal? Thanks so much for your help!
Results:
Chlorine: 0.5 ppm
pH: 8.2+
Total chlorine: 4
Calcium Hardness: 450 ppm
Total Alkalinity: 110
CYA: 20+ ppm
Salt test: 4000 ppm

My pool is brown from a flood and I watched some videos and read a few links on vacuuming, but I am unclear about 2 things:
The skimmers have 2 holes but only one fits a hose, but there is a disc that you can slide to open and close the hole... how should this be set on the skimmer that is not being attached to the vacuum?
Question 2... does it matter which skimmer should you attach the vacuum? In my scenario I have a deep end skimmer and a shallow end skimmer, although the deep end skimmer sits slightly but noticeably lower.

Bonus question... is there a best or very good vacuum head to buy online for a 28k rectangle vinyl pool? My pool/house came with one but it feels of questionable quality and I am achieving no "suction" feeling when I vacuum (to waste at this stage). I did order a vacuum plate in hoping that helps.

Thanks so much!

Hey guys! So I took my old light out because it has water in it and now I have the photos attached. I know this one is bad, but I don't know what to buy because I don't see a model number on the sticker. I went ahead and bought a new light that was crazy expensive to change colors and wanted to make sure it worked.

Hello, all.
We are new pool owners and have been handling our own chemicals for about two months now. Pool is only 4 months old.

We have read the articles here for pool school and introduction and have decided to follow the advice and switch to liquid chlorine.

We have the Pool Math app too which is a great help.

I test our pool at least 3 times a week with a Taylor 2006 kit and have the Water Guru that sends us daily tests (although they seem to run very slightly higher than the Taylor kit).

I took the tabs out of the in line chlorinator and we removed the floater the builder placed in the pool. We want to avoid the CYA climbing too high. We then tested the water before adding anything.

We then added the amount of liquid chlorine the pool math app stated and waited about 3 hours and tested again the same time the Waterguru is set to send a reading for comparison.

Here are our numbers from the Taylor kit and WaterGuru in parenthesis.
FC: 5.0 (4.8)
CC: 0.2
PH: 7.6 (7.7)
CYA: 50 (59)
TA: 80 (72)
CH: 360 (366)

The hardest thing we seem to battle with is the PH fluctuation. It's always in range but we add acid pretty regularly (once sometime twice a week). We are North Texas and it's been 100+ degrees for two weeks or more now so we do have to top of water about once a week.

My question is when switching from Trichlor to liquid chlorine is there anything special that I need to do? Will I be adding some everyday and need to increase my Taylor testing to everyday or is that overkill?

Sorry for the long post, but thank you in advance for the help. Trichlor tabs are so easy but I have read the warnings about the side effects. I don't want to mess our progress up by swapping to liquid.

A few days ago, I switched from cal-hypo tabs to liquid chlorine at the recommendation of these forums. I bought 12.5% liquid pool shock from my local pool store. Long story short my FC has dropped from a steady 4.6 to 3 in 2 days and I've added a total of 2 gallons. I added the first gallon in 32 Oz increments in front of a return over the course of the first day and saw no change. Last night I added a full gallon at once. In front of the return and then brushed the pool thoroughly and this morning it's still testing 3 FC. In truth I also added a gallon of liquid acid to bring down my TA some and plan to aerate to get the PH back up, it is currently at 6.8. I also added 2lbs of dry stabilizer to bring my CYA closer to 50 where its recommended. I don't think either of these things would affect my issue though. I had another thought and checked the date code on the chlorine and I think it's over a year old. Did I buy ineffective chlorine? Pic attached. There is no real bleachy smell either. I would assume it would have a strong chlorine smell like the tabs do. Am I just doing something wrong?

Hi pool friends!
Last May 2022 we purchased the Intex Krystal salt water system, and it is suddenly not working nor responding for our above ground pool. We unplug it and plug it back in, double zeros flash, but when we press the lock/unlock button, it beeps at us, but does nothing. We have searched and searched online, and have found nothing. We would greatly appreciate any advice on how to fix this, as our pool is dreadfully green from not having chlorine. We purchased liquid chlorine in the meantime, while we try to figure this out.

Hi everybody! I guess like most folks here, I discovered this site because I was having problems with my Jandy SWG. I became a pool "do-it-yourselfer" during the pandemic and I must say, I enjoyed learning all about my pool operation. I'm still a little hesitant to tackle anything "electrical" and that goes for light switches, etc. But I can learn and hopefully won't get electrocuted!

I'm currently on a quest to upgrade my Aqualink PDA to the iAqualink. I have a PDA 7.0.1, so it looks like I need to get part #IQ900-PDA to do the upgrade. Is this something that I can get on Amazon or do I need to get it from Jandy? My pool is 4 years old.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

I have an Intellicenter and Pentair UltraTemp 140 heat pump with cooling function. With the cooling function enabled it requires a set point for cooling in both pool and spa mode. Because of the spread required between the heat and cool set points, I am not able to bring the spa up to it’s max of 105 without disabling cooling at the heater setup first (max set point for cooling is 104 and it requires the heat set point to be a few degrees below cooling set point). Is there a way to set it up so that the cooling function is only available in pool mode so I don’t have to take the extra step of disabling cooling when using the spa?

Jenperk13 said:

I ordered the FAS part of the DPT test. I have the K2005. It should be here today. FC 2-4, PH 7.8, TA 100, CYA 75. We use unstabilized chlorine pucks in the skimmer basket. View attachment 511387View attachment 511386View attachment 511385

Click to expand...

this looks exactly like the mustard algae in our pool. When it dies it lightens. We’ve been fighting it all summer with super shocking and vacuuming to waste. Currently adjusting Ph high and Chlorine low to use Yellow Gone. After coming across this site we are also ordering different steps to replace our wedding cake steps. I read further and saw where you said it was fine sand. Is your issue resolved?

when i set floor cleaner feature ... i see the circuit is set to "generic" vs spa/pool and intellichem is off.
should "floor cleaner" feature circuit be set to "pool" circuit ?

Does anyone know or have experience with the Jandy TruDose system? I'm tired of dosing acid to my pool every other day. PH also goes above 8.0 while we are out of town for a week. Thanks!

Really been trying to follow the guidelines here but she’s beating me still.
We’ve been getting rain a couple times a week. No organic material to speak of though. Test results remain steady.

But the sides keep greening up. Brush it off. Comes right back. Mostly on the sides but pretty much anywhere. More like a dust. Possibly mustard? But not more on the shaded side either. I’m stumped. And disappointed.

TF100 test kit
SWG
Fc 4
Ph 7.5
Cya 70
Ta 50
Ca 80

Greetings. I live overseas now, where construction methods are MUCH different than in the US, and have a pool problem/concern I hope someone might have a resolution for. First, it is important to note that things like Grunite or Shockcrete are not used here. Rather, pools are made of poured concrete (mix made for pools) in one continuous pour from several cement trucks. Unfortunately, as seen in the picture, I have rebar sticking out of nearly the entire top of the pool walls (where it should have been bent over a couple inches down. Ofcourse the rebar will be cut down and there is still mortar and coping work that needs to be done. I'm hopeful, being on top of the pool, above the water line, the rebar will be protected from water except when pool in use (maybe an hour a day, at most). My major concern is the overflow edge that will get constant waterflow. Questions: How concerned should I be about the exposed rebar ends above the pool water level? Should I apply an epoxy over all the cut rebar ends and maybe a waterprrof sealant on top of the wall to provide some level of protection, before mortar and coping? How much would I need to build up the overflow edge to protect the rebar tops, and if substantially, I will have them remove a few inches of concrete and build it up again. The pool will be finished with Peblecrete inside. Thank you for any advice you can offer.

Greetings friends. We have a pond with a liner, 2 hp pump and 24" sand filter. All works fine until we tried to connect this pvc setup with 2 valves so we could switch from pumping water to vacuuming without disconnecting hose. we get no suction.

Been reading up on borates and I was wondering where the recommendation of 30-50ppm comes from? Is there anything negative to borates under 30ppm or is it simply that you wont reap the benefits at such a low level?

Good morning. i recently purchased a home and have researched to find that I have a 1996 Hydro Air Spa that is connected to my pool. The suction covers at the base of the spa are missing. I have been researching to determine if any new covers would work, but have not had any luck. So I wanted to reach out here to see if anyone has any insight. Attached are 2 photos of the suction intakes for your use. Thank you.

Hello Everyone!
New member here. We're just getting started with the pool building process. They just finished digging which took 2 days. Plumbing is tomorrow. I found this forum because I was trying to decide on PebbleTech color/style. This forum had a lot of good insight. At this point we're set to go with Blue Surf. We want our water to be medium blue. No green. Blue Surf seems to get us closer to medium blue than the other options in tier 1. We will also be building a retaining wall, waterfall and spa. We hope everything comes out good. I attached a picture of what it currently looks like out there. Any suggestions or comments welcome.

My SWG will not stop producing chlorine no matter what percentage it is at. My IntelliCenter is functioning properly along with the app. Only time it truly will stop producing chlorine it when I set it to 0 percent. Anyone ever hear of anything like this. Only 2.5 years old the cell. I have always keep it low too at 8% since I have an autocover and keep the pool spotless. Only time I crank it up to 70% is when we swim or open it during the day. I’m at a loss.

Hello- I hope this is the appropriate place for this topic:
Our gunite pool was started in March, 2022, plastered & filled with water in September, 2022. Concrete deck was poured August, 2022. Pool was "Loop-Loc" covered in November, 2022... Over the 2022/2023 winter (Tulsa, OK), our concrete deck "heaved" or the pool sunk in the deep end-- about 5/8"-- in one corner only (see photos). I was sure the deck had heaved, since underneath our pool in the deep end is solid limestone, but some contractors that have come to look suspect the pool had sunk. We have no plaster cracks or displaced waterline tiles. Other locations of the pool are slightly heaved too... but no more than 3/16", and I can hold my nose & live with that.

I've invited foundation "lifting" companies over to see about trying to lift the outer perimeter and hope the inner perimeter goes back down (teeter-totter affect), and also concrete contractors to remove & replace the heaved section. I'm getting various opinions. Our Pool GC was an absolute LEMON, and although they're ultimately responsible, our attorney said it may be fruitless to pursue them. We're on our own.

Before I pay for a "fix", I want a accurate assessment of the condition and determine what needs to be fixed. I saw the legacy posts about piers under the pool, but that won't help me because of the limestone bed.

Does this community know of a service discipline that I should look for to take accurate laser measurements? I have an old 1970's Transit, but no tripod or scale, and I don't know that it'll get me to the nearest micron of level to determine if the pool sunk or the concrete heaved.

Thanks.

Im suddenly having an issue with my filter. The pressure is steadily in the middle of yellow no matter how much i back wash. Now i dont have enough water flow to run my intex vaccum. I have a swg as well.

Hello! I saw in a previous post it was said that a person could change from a standard plug to a twist-lock without any issue. What about the reverse? Can I just put a regular GFCI household plug on a twist-lock without any issues? I was concerned because the twist-lock was 20 a and the household was 15 a. My electrical box is snug and it would make my life easier. Thank you for your advice!

Hi Folks, I clean my skimmer basket twice daily because my pool is under two trees and has lots of leaves. If I am leaving town for a few days should I turn the pump off? I am worried about damaging the pump if the basket is clogged. Thanks.

Recently I've noticed that my pool filler will pulsate when the pool pump is running. If I turn off the pump pulsating noise will stop.

I've shared the video, you dont need to sign or anything to see it.

Sometimes I get my water tested at the pool store just to compare numbers. Why does the app suggest alkalinity between 50-90 and the pool store recommends between 125-150? Are those total alkalinity numbers or adjusted? Thanks in advance.

I want to plumb my backwash outlet with pvc due to location of my pump. The only adapter I have found is a female 40mm to 1.5” male. I also found the fitting that intex sells to clamp a soft hose, but I would prefer to plumb it with pvc. The threads on discharge are male. Is there an adapter for the 40mm male to 1.5”?

I am trying to decide whether it is worth it to redo a very large traditional cement and chlorine 65-year-old pool that has served me and my large family well for the last 36 years. This year the ancient pool pump motor started getting noisier and noisier, so it needs repair, but I have not been able to get anyone to come to either repair the motor (worn ball bearings?) or replace the entire pump. Also, I am having to add more water to keep the water high enough at a greater rate than ever before, so assume there is more leaking. The pool needs resurfacing or extensive patching, and the tile under the coping (which I did replace a few years ago) is crumbling away. (I have always kept it closed with an automatic pool cover, because of children and pets.) My spouse says that it is more worth it to just fix the pump and pay for the extra water. I, the dreamer, was thinking it might be a good time to put a smaller, shallower fiberglass pool inside the old concrete one so I could keep up my lap swimming and exercise into my extreme old age, should I make it that far. Then I would not feel guilty about wasting water. Downsizing the pool, in other words, since I can't bear to leave my house. My grandchildren now have their own pools or clubs to swim at so don't use mine much. But my first quote was over $100,000!! Maybe I'll need that money if I live for another 30 years. But if I die in just a few years, I will have had the fun of a new fiberglass saltwater pool that does not rough up my thin skin and water that does not break off my hair, and it can be used by whoever ends up with my house. Are other grandparents facing a similar decision? How do you decide?

I have an Intex Krystal sand filter. When I backwash I have to go between backwashing and rinsing 3 times, several minutes each. And it still sometimes shoots dirty water back into my pool.
But what’s more concerning is each time I turn the pump off and back on it shoots dirty water into the pool for about 5 seconds, even if it was cleaned 15 minutes before.
I changed the sand a week ago.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this? I’m losing so much water backwashing 5-10 minutes everyday.

I have cared for my inground gunite pool with fiberglass wall for the last 20+ years. I even learned to fiberglass and patch cracks without any issues.