I own a bullfrog A series just empty the water for the first time and refilled having trouble with the calcium hardness, I think it is causing the chlorine to be nonexistent I am using the silver cartridge and a number two and it is not showing at all on the test strip what am I doing wrong

I just bought a home that has a Pool Frog System and the o-ring on the blue control dial has completely deteriorated and the blue control dial snapped as I tried to pull it out to inspect it. Now I have water that floods out every time I turn on the system to filter.

Please see the pictures and let me know if I can cut it out and run a straight pipe in its place.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I can not filter the water until this os fixed or sealed.

Long story short, I own a 22 year old pool and just started replacing the Intertech "stuff" with nodejs-poolController. My SAM light is the old skook one with mechanical wheel, and the motor is toast. Is there a reliable replacement to the SAM light that doesn't cost a fortune? I have no problem making a DIY LED light, I'd just prefer to buy something that won't leak or die in a few years, if that is even possible. As best I can tell my SAM light takes 120V in, but is well potted and converts it to 12VDC? If I were to go DIY I'd probably violate building codes here, and while I think the safety risk is something I can manage (I'm an electrical engineer), I really just want something off the shelf in this area that just simply "works", if such a thing "exists". 12v or 24v low current LED is preferred, trying to make house more energy efficient is my primary goal, not singularly focused on pool, yet. All decent advice is greatly appreciated. This may be my first post here. I've been lurking a while. Thanks in advance.

My pool has been clear for most of the summer since opening it. I have noticed that only and everytime I add 12% liquid shock the water goes from being clear to a light greens/blueish color, which I have never seen before in all of the years of having a pool. It seems to clear up after a period of time. I have performed a basic test of the water and have
Cya 10ish
TA 120
ph 7.6 to 7.8
FC 3
tCf 5
Th 150ish
I had attached a picture of the water

How much of a concern is this rust inside the filter?

I just used up the last of my stabilizer I bought a couple years ago. I was going to order from Amazon, but noticed online that my local Wally-World has Clorox brand in stock for about the same price. No 2-in-one or anything; just says Pool Stabilizer. Priced about the same as Amazon for the 4" bag (around 20 bucks.) What say you?

Thanks!
G.

Please look at my logs.

I'm around 3-days short of Day 30 on a new plaster pebble pool. PoolMath is calling for 19 lbs of calcium. Is this the right time to add and bring that level up? I believe on startup this was to be kept low to aid in removing the plaster cream?

Several weeks ago I added a full 5lb bag of clorox pH down that I got from amazon last year. Didn't change the PH at all. A couple weeks ago I added another full bag that I'd just bought. That maybe dropped it .2. 4 days ago I added a full 5lb bag of pH down that I bought from the local pool store. That stuff made the pool insanely cloudy, but didn't change the pH AT ALL. Anyone know whats going on? pool is 40K plaster. levels are PH=7.8 TA=110 CH=200 TC=4 FC=3.5 CYA=56

I was at WalMart last December and they were closing out the granular pH Down for a buck a bag (4 pounds). Now that Muriatic Acid has supplanted the $15 / gallon price here at my local pool store,

I thought this was the deal of the century.

Then I learn if you have an SWG, DO NOT USE GRANULAR PRODUCTS TO LOWER THE Ph.

I'd like to better understand why this is the case, and also if there are any situations where I could use it....for example, when I open my pool the pH is usually VERY high, VERY bouncy, and I don't usually install the SWG for 2-3 weeks after opening. I'll usually SLAM right away and keep the CL level up using Cal-Hypo 73 for 2-3 weeks in the begiining of the season. Thannks

Can you tell I’m excited?

New pool owner here... I followed the instructions on the back of the baking soda bag and added it directly to the pool. I think this has now contributed to a sandpaper feel on the walls of the pool. Pool is less than 2 months old. Is muratic acid and scrubbing the only way to remove this? It doesn't look white or gray - just feels rough.

Hi,

I’m using a VGreen 165 to run my water Laminar Jet.

Normally, I start it using keypad. I press start then Override at 1600rpm. This method skips the mandatory 3 minutes priming process because priming water flow is too strong for my laminar jet.

Recently, I hooked up to my automation and intended to start the pump using digital input 4(Override Mode).

Instead of starting without prime like manual keypad Override, the override in digital Input starts with the same priming process which makes my laminar jet shooting into my patio.

I researched this and came up with few option:

1. Add a VGreen 270 control panel because apparently priming RPm can be adjusted using this control panel. I don’t want to do this as adding $300 is a lot. I could’ve gone with a Pentair VSP at that point…

2. Modify the plumbing to add a return diverter valve. I want to avoid this because cutting and regluing pvc precisely at the correct length is a PITA… this won’t fix the problem because once priming is done, the laminar jet will be too pitiful at 1600rpm with diverter valve open….



Does anyone know any other way I can fix this?

I have a 3 year old pool in Phoenix. I recently noticed a crack in the foundation of the pool decking. Not sure how much I should be worrying about it or what to do about it.

Any ideas?

Purchased a home in Inverness, FL. Pool was number two item on shopping checklist (cycling paths was #1). Twelve year old traditional pump and weekly pool guy chlorine setup. That's gonna change ASAP! Can't wait to get started. Hope there's tech geeks in the group. THANK YOU for all the great work done here before I arrived.

Just curious if anyone has had their fiberglass pool repaired or is a fiberglass repair person.

I had mine fixed this week and im still concerned that it was not gelcoated correctly. I will try to get a picture added asap.

the middle of the repair seems to match better than the ring. anyways it looks better than a crack but im not happy right now

Hey All- I think I have successfully fixed my Dolphin S200 that stopped moving a couple weeks ago. The problem was wear on the spindles of some of the gears in the transmission attached to the drive motor. It got bad enough that the gears would get jammed when the robot transitioned from forwards to backwards. Since you can't get parts for these (at a reasonable price anyway) I Macgyvered my own fix using a little bit of brass tubing. I made a blog post about it with details and pictures that hopefully some of you will find helpful if you are facing the same problem. (Moderators- I hope my link is allowed. It isn't a commercial blog and I have no ads and make no money from it, this just seemed easier than trying to upload all the pictures and instructions here)

In the past 3-4 months been getting these “black spots” on floor.Never had them in the last 20 years.Converted pool to salt about a year ago.Won’t come up with scrubbing chlorine tabs on them.Was going to try Vit C tabs and see what happens.Will try and include pics .

Just replace a malfunctioning salt chlorinator. Free chlorine readings remain nil.

Large kidney shaped in ground. Approx 30k gallons.
salt level approx 3500ppm.
CYA 30-40
hardness 400-500
alkalinity 150.
Ph 7.5.

I assumed I had a high chlorine demand and the new salt generator wasn’t able to overcome alone. (Not chlorine lock b/c the CYA is not high). So…i put in 12 gallons of liquid shock (12.5%) last night. This morning when i tested the free chlorine level was barely reading…still less than 1ppm.

here’s another conundrum…I’ve battled low CYA all year as well. I’ve added several pounds of granular CYA. It failed to budge the CYA, so I decided to add liquid CYA. I’ve added 4 gallons of liquid CYA and it only raised to 30-40 (previously unmeasurable).


Does anyone have any ideas? What am I doing wrong?

Hi, new here. I've been reading the forums here for a few days after finding this place on Google, thought I'd sign up and ask my question.



After looking at several different pools of all shapes and sizes, I decided to go with the Coleman 26 x 12 x 52 oval pool. I already have a spot in the backyard that I've been working on.



Now here's where it starts becoming a problem. I live in Las Vegas, we have some of the hardest dirt in the western US. It's called caliche, and it's basically on par with concrete. I've done my best with a pickaxe to loosen the dirt up, there's an ungodly amount if rocks mixed up in the dirt, it's been a nightmare trying to separate it from the dirt, but I've done a pretty good job with two different rake sizes.



There's quite a few valleys and peaks in the ground, getting it level is going to be a real chore. I've decided to build it up rather than dig the whole area out like some others have suggested, because it's literally impossible to dig this kind of ground up without a jackhammer.



This is my first time with any kind of above ground pool, so any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.



Thanks!

First time pool owner. 10k gallon kidney pool completed in 7 weeks from dig to pump powered up. Very impressed with builder. Going to be a salt water pool. Plaster has another 10 or so days to cure before commissioning the chlorine generator. Pretty excited with the pool, even the maintenance because I can jump in as soon as I’m finished.

Hello! We just installed a complete DIY 33,000 gallon 40 x 20 IG. My husband is a contractor/remodeler by trade and do all the work himself. It’s been a labor of love and a long process for various reasons but we’re super stoked to finally have our dream come true!

We owned a house with an inground for about 5 years but it came with the home and was straight chlorine. This new salt generator is all new to us. So we’re grateful to have a place to learn more about how to best take care of our new investment. Thanks to all who are a part of this forum!

Tired of screen logic 2 every time there’s a storm it gets my interface module hooked up in the house to the modem. This is a $500 part that I’ve had to change at least 4 times in 3 years , what a weak link in the system. Please help !! What do people do about lightning strikes near the pool pump and equipment??

Hi All,

This is my first post here, since discovering TFP earlier this year. We recently installed an in ground 10,000 gallon FG pool, and have been doing my best to maintain it the TFP way… now. For the first about month, I didn’t know about TFP so it was maintained it to a lower 1-3 ppm of FC. I have been using the Taylor K2006 for testing. These are my recent levels from this morning at 6am:

FC - 5.5
CC - Detectable, but under 0.5
pH - 7.6
TA - 100
CH - 250
CYA - 50

The problem is that last night I performed the OCLT. At 9 pm last night, my FC was 8.5. I know for a time last week my FC levels would have dropped below my recommend 4-8 ppm levels, since I was away and not as much liquid chlorine was added. I don’t know by how much, or for how long. Liquid chlorine was added daily, but probably not enough.

Everything is else seems normal. Water is totally clear, with no signs of algae growth. Zero organic material visible on the walls and floor when I brush/vacuum. ph slowly creeps up, and I lower it via muriatic acid occasionally.

I suspect a (hopefully short) SLAM is in order to stop the chlorine loss and “reset” back to square one, but I wanted to get some input before I proceeded.

Thanks!!!

My pool was finished in 2021. After 3 seasons of dealing with LC, I just had an SWG installed. Vacations were just a pain to keep it from turning green (in the middle of a SLAM right now ....).

My question is if it is really necessary to seal the stone around my pool, especially the Lueder Stone (which looks like just limestone) coping? I have read all the threads that, general consensus, it is the water that destroys rock, not the salt as most LC pools are close in salinity anyways. However, when I searched specifically for Leuder, there were a few 10+ year old threads that said it was a bad idea to have Leuder by a pool. Not sure if anything has been learned since then. Would especially love to hear from others with Leuder around their pool on how it has held up?

Thanks.

Glad to meet anyone here! I’m retired, love my pool but between the cottonwood flying in ,constant rain and now leaves -I’m getting tired of the pool cleaning. I’m dreaming wishing there was a cheap fix for a pool dome. Lol

I lose about 4" of water every day. I have done all the obvious tests -- dye test, bucket test, closing off pipes, skimmer test. The pool water has now fallen about a foot below where it usually should be and, for the most part, stabilized. The walls are fiberglass. Is it possible to paint the pool with epoxy paint to slow down the leaky walls? If so, which paint would you recommend?

I have been in this forum since 2016 and have used a lot of info but never introduced our family. We are the Thompsons, we have 2 waterfalls and a 42 x 16 ft pool with 2 VS pumps both are 3 horsepower. We have a cartridge filter and SWG and LED lights. We really appreciate the help of TFP

Hey all! I'm new to pool maintenance and was wondering where you guys would start on fixing this problem. I know my CYA is very high and I'm not sure if the the reducer will work as I've seen mixed reviews on them. Open to all suggestions thanks

I hired a leak detection company that detected a leak in the return lines without specifying where the leak might be. Their solution is to run new returns coming close to 10k after tax.

I don't have this kind of money, and I also think it's unreasonable.

I have a rather obvious area where the water pools and causes the liner to bubble, I dug there and tunneled under the deck and found nothing.

Then I moved to the closer return, cut the deck and started digging. This pipe goes so deep and I think I'm close but it's getting more difficult to keep going deeper. And frankly a little less safe. Now I'm basically level with the pool ground and the pipe still goes down, I assume for another few inches but at this point I'm not sure. The ground seems to be flat at that point and I noticed a plastic film around the pipe I'm hoping that shows in the last picture.

Looking for advice on the best solution here and whether it's worth it to keep digging vs running new lines myself.

I started looking for robots, and most seem to recommend a Dolphin model. But I'm starting to get lost. There are a lot of models and it's hard to differentiate between them. For example, their site recommends either the Nautilus CC Plus or Triton PS Plus but I can't figure out what the main differences are.

I've got a 20k gallon kidney shaped pool and want something that will do the most cleaning with the least effort. I'll pay whatever I have to, but I don't want to pay for extra stuff I don't want or need.

Any recs or experiences are appreciated.