Hi all, my intellicenter2 app has been offline for 3 days. The usual unplug the receiver inside the house and plug it back in usually does the trick, but not this time.
I went out to the control system in the backyard to check the wifi connection. However, it’s not letting me. The screen says no Ethernet detected. It’s not giving me a wireless option. Help!

Do I need to buy a Solar touch if I have an Intellicenter to automate solar?

I've been having issues with water leaking out of waste hose. I saw online that it is usually an issue with the spider gasket so I ordered the part and went to repair. When I opened up the valve I noticed that the gasket was on the underside of the piece that is pulled off and not inside the valve like I was expecting. I then noticed that the underside of the piece reads SP0714 instead of the SP0715 that was on the top of the valve.

I'm suspecting that the previous owner may have stuck a SP0715 sticker onto the SP0714. I bought the SP0715D and the shape of it is inside as seen in the first picture. But there's no gasket there currently and there's no notches for it to be seated. In the second pic is what I'm assuming is the actual piece I'm supposed to be replacing.

I just wanted to double check I'm not confusing two different gaskets and both are necessary or something. Because not too sure why it's labeled wrong on the outside of the valve.

Edit: Also bonus question: It seems like Hayward doesn't sell the SP0714 spider gasket separately. It comes stamped into the piece. There's third parties selling the gasket separate. Should those be good enough or should I stick with genuine part?

Hello all, I have a pretty straight forward setup. I upgraded to a vs pump about 2 years or so ago. I’m now looking to change up the filtration system. I’m over this cartridge cleaning, and im finding some blow back, I’ve tried new filters making sure they are seated well but no luck. The filter housing is probably at least 15 years old. Perhaps that’s the issue.

My question is where should I start to explore? The gentleman at my local pool supply talked about a glass filter system.
What about adding a SWG?

Whatever suggestions you have are appreciated. I’m not versed on the equipment side of things. Also Polaris booster is getting the boot. I purchased robot cleaner after replacing the booster pump multiple times. I would also note the floor drain is capped. Only using the skimmer. Pool was built in the 70s. I’m in south texas with weeks on end of 100+ temp looking to be the norm.

Went past the pool equipment shortly after the pump turned on in the morning and noticed that the filter housing was leaking around the middle where the metal band/clamp/seal is. Not a lot of water, but a steady few drops. I assumed that I needed to adjust the clamp/gasket. So I went back later in the day, while the pump is still running, and now everything around the filter housing is bone dry as though there wasn't a leak. The last time I touched this gasket and clamp was when I cleaned the filters maybe two months ago. Didn't notice any leak at the time.

Is this a normal thing to happen during start up? Maybe before it reaches full pressure? Though when I saw the water this morning the system was already at full pressure.

It's a mystery. Any thoughts?

I have what I believe is approximately 28k pool. Have been looking at circupool core55. I see it seems recommended size is "at least 2x".

1) So, would the core 55 work ok for 28k? I'm in Houston, so pretty brutal heat. Plus my neighbor has tons of trees that drop alot of stuff.

2) currently I use mix of pucks and liquid chlorine. Obviously, would no longer use pucks at all, but during mid summer, can I still on occasion use liquid chlorine for shock (ideally wouldn't even need to)?

3) I already use a lot of acid for ph. Will SWg increase acid use to keep pH down?


Thanks,
Bran

What does dead algae look like? I can't find any clear answers

I’m pretty sure my generator’s cell is bad. It’s a Hayward Goldline, t-cell 15.
It was here when we bought the house over 5 years ago, and it looked a few years old then.
The computer is saying “inspect cell”, solid light and not flashing…and this time it won’t let me reset the indicator, and it’s obviously not doing its job. Been giving me trouble all year, actually.
I’m going to check the thermistor tomorrow, but I’m pretty sure that’s not it.
My question for the pros is: Should I just buy a new cell? I know it’s a pretty old system, but it’s always seemed to work well. Not sure if it’s obsolete, but the price of the cell has near doubled since the last time I bought one.
Or is there a better, newer system I should consider, seeing as how this is the same thing that was put on my first pool (different house) in 2003.

My Dolphin S300 is acting up. Runs for about 10-30 seconds in cleaning mode, but runs perfectly fine driving it manually. I noticed an error message in the app that says "DC In Voltage". I checked the impeller for any obstructions, but it was clear.

I stumbled upon this troubleshooting guide (How to Troubleshoot a Dolphin Pool Cleaner - INYOPools.com), however the part about the PSU seems to be for an old model. Mine has 4 pins with voltages ranging from 7-29V depending on which pins I test. Does anyone know the correct voltages on the power connector to the robot or could test measure their working one for me?

On mine, I get
1-2: 17.2V
1-3: 12.1V
1-4: 9.6V
2-3: 29.4V
2-4: 7.5V
3-4: 21.8V

I noticed some of the white stuff on these pavers they it appeared to go away. Then we had a big rain and my pool was fuller than normal and in the area of the calcium the pavers felt damp. I drained a bit out of the pool and the dampness left but the calcium or efflorescence expanded. So what do you think it is? A Leak?

Thank you

Kevin

Hello, I was able to buy this cooler from someone selling it, but it's missing the sump pump with the plumbing. Can someone provide some pictures of how the sump pump is plumbed in these units, please? Also, when checking the install diagram, why is the output of the chiller connected to the incoming skimmer line instead of the return line? I won't have a dedicated return line for it. Can someone explain to me how that makes sense to plumb it like this?

Received our new Wybot Osprey 700 a couple days ago.

Climbs the walls just fine.
However, it can not make it up the steep hill of the pool floor in the deep end.
Husband says there’s reference in the directions to insert the provided “floats” to help with this, but the picture isn’t clear as to WHERE to insert them.

Could someone provide a better description or photo of where the floats go?

Have a pentair cartridge filter - relief valve (part 98209800) on top snapped where the threads enter the filter. I was able to extract the remaining threaded section from the filter top.

I'm going to order/install a new valve but have a pool party tomorrow and want a PVC option from home depot to plug the hole temporarily. Does anyone know the official diameter/thread size and if there's any issue with doing this? I can eyeball it but don't want to mess up the threads on the filter top if i'm wrong.

thanks

Well shoot. After a bunch of yard work I decided to take a quick nap. Then I woke up to this. Must've been a heck of a hot, windy updraft to lift two tables off the ground. The table in the middle had a brown glass top. Glass all over the decking, in those planters, and of course in the pool. So much for a relaxing Sunday afternoon.

Anybody get by on a 1/2" polystyrene board + tarp?

I grabbed a new 12x24 for a great price and I will feel weird if I spent nearly the same on the base. I've read many forums, so I plan to level the ground and use pavers on feet and etc.... As with prices of most things you know material cost has gone up. I know having a pool is not a necessity and plan to spend some money.

The board will be $0.32/sqft while those mats at harbor freight are $0.63/sqft. I plan to install directly on the ground no sand/rock layer.

Trying to figure out whether my jet is clogged or it is underpowered blower. I have a 1hp Silencer. When the pump is off, the blower seems to be hitting all the nets properly. When the pump is on and then lower, it starts to sputter.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Hi all,

I'm still learning about pool maintenance and planning to use SLAM next year. For now, I'm working with what I've got. It's almost mid-August, and I'm wondering if it's worth tackling the persistent yellow algae before reopening the pool.

My pool got hit with algae after weeks of thunderstorms and heavy rain. I tried using a handheld vacuum, thinking it was dirt to no avail. realized it's yellow algae due to its persistent growth, quick debris return, and buildup on the walls. Confirming this, the bag filter of my handheld vacuum had neon yellow residue. I ruled out pollen since it doesn't float on the pool's surface or end up in the skimmer basket. The handheld vacuum was dispersing the algae. YouTube videos suggest using a manual hose vacuum set to waste for effective debris cleanup, rather than a handheld device.

Check out the attached photos – one shows the pool at its worst, and the other is after a triple shock treatment. I'm not sure if it's smart to clean it up now in mid-August, or if I should just prepare it for storage. Cleaning it now seems like a good option. Should I invest in a manual hose vacuum? I'm somewhat unsure where to go from here.

Thanks.

Is that possible? My pool was doing SO WELL over the summer and now I am seeing black spots on the bottom (that are hard to brush off) after about a week of not being in it. It's definitely my fault for not staying on top of it- we've been so busy. I read that it usually appears in plaster pools and requires a steel brush to remove. Since my pool is vinyl liner- what's best to do?

I have an in ground 25k gallon pool with a vinyl liner and an intellichlor ic40 SWG. We also have an auto cover and always have it covered if we aren't in the pool. The pool company set the SWG at 60%. But after a weekend of having friends over and swimming in the pool, I had zero chlorine in the pool and things turned green. I followed the slam protocol over a few days. I ended up somewhere around 16-20 gallons of 12% chlorine. My cya is 80, pH 7.5, salt 4000ppm. I got the chlorine back into the normal 3-5 range for a few days and it cleared out and looked great. I had set the swg to 80% just because I figured it's a new pool and all our friends keep coming over. A couple days later and there is zero chlorine again. Then repeat this cycle again a few times over the past few weeks. It will especially wipe out the chlorine after rain. But we have had the cover on each time it rains. Is this normal? Is my SWG not working? Or do I just have to keep adding chlorine to keep up?

Last night I was watching the kids in the pool and the ladies in the spa, jets off. Lights on in both. The pool looked very clear, but the spa looked kind of cloudy. The spa is attached and uses the same pump and water. After the ladies got out of the spa, the water level was below the overflow level into the pool by several inches. (When we moved in a couple weeks ago, there was a good little waterfall from the spa to the pool, but I had noticed that diminished on subsequent views and thought maybe it had to do with pump speed and that was on a schedule.) After everyone got out, I added some LC to bring it between 15-20, with a special dose for the spa, then went to bed. (I'm keeping FC elevated while I wait for some trichlor pucks to dissolve in the feeder, then will do an OCLT.)

This morning, I went outside and the level was still low in the spa, telling me there's not a lot of circulation between the pool and the spa under normal conditions. I turned off the pump, emptied the strainer basket, switched the suction and return from "Pool" to "Spa," and turned the pump back on. There was no change in the water level in the spa after doing that for a while, telling me that it's only recirculating the spa water through the spa return. Can I leave the suction side on "Pool" and put the return side on "Spa" to try to flush fresh water through the spa? It didn't occur to me when I extra-dosed the spa with LC, that it wouldn't make its way back to the pool.

This first pic shows the spa and pool. The spa is elevated. The water level is currently one tile below the overflow.

Here's the equipment layout. What I was shown to run the spa was 1. turn off pump, 2. change suction and return from pool to spa, 3. turn on pump and allow to prime, 4. turn on blower and heater if desired.
I don't really know what this return piping is for. The "spa/fountain" side has been open all along. I don't know why there's an in-line valve downstream of the diverter valve. The pipe on the left side of the diverter is not labeled. It sits right next to the blower, so could it have something to do with that? There are also two aerator nozzles that I've never seen operate. I wondered if it had something to do with that, but no real clue.

Hello all. new pool owner here and trying to get a handle on my water chemistry. like so many others, I have just realized that the constantly rising pH is a result of the 3 section raised spillway from the spa to the pool that runs with the pool pump. I am trying to creat a Pool only mode, Spa only mode and Spillover Mode. let me know if I need to provide more information but would like your input on if it is possible to rig it this way so the pool can run without spa spillover and then the spa can run as needed for water chemistry.

attaching our current plumbing pad layout

We have been through a Polaris and a Pentair pool cleaner. We are looking for something that will work.. Our pool is 14k gallons in a circular shape and is partially surrounded by several trees near by that constantly drops leaves and small acorns into the pool. Also, neither one of those would work on our tanning ledge, though it is the bottom of the pool that we are most concerned with. We purchased a handheld vacuum from sharper image that works ok for the ledge. Any advice anyone?

Is this a stupid idea? We are already in the process of building a round inground pool. We have been thinking of enclosing it for a bunch of reasons. It is secure and can be locked, its private, it keeps the wind out, it stays cleaner, the kids dont have to wear sunscreen etc....

So we have talked with a handful of manufacturers of geodesic domes and the plan would be do have a dome made with 2" x 1/8" 6061 aluminum piping, with a canvas cover that has a large glass sunroof and large glass window and a double door that opens 8' wide. In my mind this seems like the perfect solution, but nobody else seems to have done it and I can't help but think there is a reason why that I am missing. Hoping you guys can point out something I might be missing.

My pool equipment will not turn on. My controller has power and the leds light when the button is pressed but none of the equipment actually turns on. The display does read water sensor open. My question is, would a faulty water sensor prevent the pump and the light from turning on?

So I just turned on my filter for the first time we just got the pool up a few days ago and got the pump system together as we turned the pump on I noticed 2 small leaks a very small drop from the top of the pump and a small drip from the skimmer is that okay? And second I added chlorine tabs last night and woke up to a green pool so I added shock today what else could I do ?

I bought an Intelliflo3 pump with the I/O board. Can someone help me wire my Hayward Salt Cell into it? I previously had it hooked up to a timer and it worked but the relay set up was different. Trying to figure out how many of the relay terminals I will need to use and where to plug in what.

For 1.5 inch replacement hoses, do you have to get the ones branded for your specific pool?

I have a Coleman made by Bestway, but seems like stores only have the Intex 1.5 inch hose in stock right now. Wondering if really they're interchangeable so I could go with the Intex or not.

Thanks!

Hi, I am new to pool cleaning. I bought this new hose vacuum set from Leslie Pools except I don’t know how to set up my valves to siphon out dead algae. Please see pictures. Does anyone know how to set up a basic vacuum and backwash to remove dead algae from the bottom of a pool? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Hi. Just got a house with a pool a couple of months ago in Yuma, AZ. I think the pool was installed in 2008. I have not done any pool maintenance in about 40 years which was limited to checking chlorine and pH and skimming and vacuuming. I know almost nothing about the mechanics of system are, other than keeping the valve settings where the previous owner had them and adjusting the valves for vacuuming. I will update my signature line after I do some research on what I have. I am in a very windy area in Yuma with high winds and dust storms coming from the south for 6 hours, then from the north for 6 hours filling the pool every few days with leaves, sand, dust and organics. I am skimming the pool about 3 times a day and vacuuming about every three days. Lots of maintenance, but the pool has been wonderful this summer. You can see from the attached pictures most of what I have is very dilapidated. Most of the valves are leaking, spa heater not working, spa motor burned up, tiles falling off, chlorine generator abandoned in place, and everything sun damaged. I have replaced some gaskets and cleaned the DE filter. The pool came with nearly no accessories, but 3 chlorine tabs and a skimmer net with some holes in it, and two broken poles. Got some work to do and want to get it all back up and running properly in the next few months.

Thanks for the wonderful site!

This is what they had up front near the garden center cashier at my local Lowes today 22 325.

In back with the pool stuff it was 23 102. Not super fresh but a whole lot better than last year’s stock.