I live in Smithtown NY and need my liner replaced. Does anyone know of a company in the north east or in the NY,NJ,CT area that will store the water while the liner is being changed?

I came across this: Add water to the pool automatically and since it was an old thread I started a new one.

I did something similar to this post but added a simple way to make it automatic. If you estimate or actually measure the rate of water evaporation (measure inches of water level lost in a week, say), and know the rate at which your fill water flows, then you can set fill water to run for a specific time every week (or 5 days, or whatever). That way the level will remain essentially the same for extended periods. Some adjustments will need to be made in different seasons when the rate of evaporation changes. I used an Orbit timer with wifi and app to automatically add the water for fixed periods. PM me if you want more info.. Edit by Jim R.

July has been a learning curve month with first SLAM, trouble with hard fill water, dirty filters and a good sized party last weekend. Just finished adding softened water, filter swap, after party mini-SLAM, and passed OCLT last night. Here are the numbers from tonight after letting FC come down all day.
pH 7.5 (used 2:1 Pool water:distilled water method since FC was 13)
FC 13
CC 1
CH 300
TA 130
CYA 60
Salt 3400

Question 1: Recommendations on current CH and TA numbers after SLAM? I have tried working down the TA previously, but my pH does not rise that much on it's own. What are ramifications of TA normally in this range. It usually hangs around 120.
Question 2: Attached are my fill water options (private well) and my test numbers of them. In the future, I'd prefer to use the soft water because there is no iron staining like there is with the hard water. Also, the TA is slightly lower. However, is the 0 CH going to bring down the total pool CH too much? Any risk there with fiberglass or low CH in general?

Thanks for any advice

I just ran it through my almost-brand new tub and got the expected green scum. Decided to run it through again and got exactly the same result. Do I continue? It’s become obvious to me that the scum is, in fact, the gel (I assume it binds to the gunk and basically acts as a flocculant?). What does it look like when you run it through a perfectly clean system? I’m debating trying a scaled down version in a blender to find out, lol

Hi everyone, just installed a new all-resin Saltwater Aurora, thanks in large part to advice from the uber smart community here (thanks)! I’m learning a ton here and gaining confidence as I go. One question I’m not finding an answer to is about the grounding and bonding needs for the actual pool itself, as an all-resin pool. Filter/pump, heater—no question, licensed electrician coming to do those and run the dedicated GFCI. But do I insist he also ground and/or bond the pool itself? Or does the all-resin nature of the pool make that unnecessary? Sorry in advance if this is an ignorant question, it just seems the completely non-metal nature if the Aurora may make some difference here. Thanks for any insight you can share!

I have always run mine 24/7 but thinking about putting it on a timer to just run 8 or so hours per day.

I have a cove bottom/flat bottom pool bought from one of the online DIY companies. I installed my liner last weekend in 80 degree temps. When I put a vacuum on it, the cove area doesn't come close to contacting the wall or cove. It is a good 20 inches up on the wall and out on the floor where it makes contact. If I put my foot on the liner I cannot push it down to make contact with the cove. When I measure the pool cross section distance down my wall , cove, pool bottom, cove, and back up the wall It is 14 inches longer than the same distance on the liner. That means the liner would have to stretch 14 inches total or as I fill it with water the bottom is going to lay flat first and hardly stretch and the walls are going to need to stretch 7 inches each over the 48 inch wall height which is 15%. I know vinyl can stretch but this seems like too much. It seems to me the liner was made for a flat bottom pool and not a cove bottom because if you eliminate the cove the liner dimensions seem to line up within 3-4 inches. When I discussed this with the pool company they said this seems to be an installation issue and they have only seen maybe one or two instances where the liner manufacturer made a mistake. It is my first liner install so im not sure if Im mistaken here or if the liner is actually made too short.

I replaced my 1 hp motor with a 1.25 not realizing that it may be too much for the pump housing. When we put it back together the Hayward Seal Plate Replacement for was leaking. Im hoping this would have happened anyway because it is 30 years old. The housing seems fine even though its 30 years old. Should I replace the whole pump housing instead of the seal plate? Also, Am I going to have trouble using the 1.25 motor when it always had a 1hp?
Thanks

I only have room for a cartridge filter… I currrently have a hayward c1200.. my spa barely spills over and this carrridge filter doesn’t appear to grab much

Heard upsizing could help both?

I have a 3 year old Penntair Warrior SE that isn’t working properly. It turns on but it spends most of the time pumping water through the top of the cleaner and doesn’t move very much. In other words, it mostly just sits in one place and pumps water to the surface.

I’ve cleaned the impeller but haven’t much deeper than that yet. My hunch is worn out gears or maybe the motor? I was hoping someone with a similar issue could point me in the right direction before I start taking it apart. Thanks for any help.

I’m tired of having to lug liquid chlorine every few weeks. Frankly, we don’t use the pool much but just want to keep it operational. As the subject says, is it worth making this change? Which parts of the system will I need to replace if I add a SWG?

Alright, I am a novice on TFP, but have owned a pool for 10+ years now, so dealt with my fair share of equipment issues (fairly handy, knowledgeable on electrical, so I handle this stuff myself). My old Hayward AquaLogic board died and I replaced it with an OmniPL retrofit kit over the summer. I had a Century VGreen 165 pump attached to the old system which I just kept on all the time via the controller and let the pump handle the schedule, worked great. Now that I hooked it up to the new controller, it does not power back on (setup as a single speed pump) after a power flicker. I usually notice its not running when the pool starts turning green (I have 4 little ones at home so don't visit the pool every day). To solve this, I have attempted to wire to the RS485 controller port to the omni and let it control the pump directly since it has a WiFi connected clock that can resume the schedule after a power flicker. Problem I have run into is that Hayward, in an apparent effort to force you to use their VS pumps which are roughly 3x the price and don't last any longer, flips the configuration from selecting a relay, to looking for a HUA (Hayward Unique Address) to select instead in order to power on the relay. Obviously the Century does not have that, so it won't power it on. To get around that, I tried hardwiring the pump to get around the relay activation, but it appears the RS485 BUS is disabled as well when no HUA is selected. So my question is, without getting into software commands, is there a way around, or has anyone figured out how to, make this pump work with the Hayward controller actually controlling the speed and schedule?

Thanks in advance!

Lee

Hi, I have a strange occurrence happening with my spa spillover waterfall. I have the spa waterfall scheduled to come on daily at 9am for 2 hours. For this past week or so, I have looked out around 9am or shortly after and the spa is not spilling over. I can hear the equipment running louder for the spa spillover, but the jets in the spa are not pumping out water. I do notice that one of the outputs in the pool is pumping out much more than typical.

So, here is the strange part. I just turn off the spa spillover because I don’t have time to deal with it at that time of the day. Then later in the afternoon, I go onto my Intellicenter App on my phone at turn on the spa waterfall and bingo. It works every time.

Any ideas what’s going on here??

Hello, all
Last year I bought a bunch of Astral triplex multiaction tabs (ASTRAL MULTI ACTION TABLET 200) for my pool. I have noticed that the specific tabs have too many of brown/gold "granules".
A couple of days ago, I bought exactly the same product (ASTRAL MULTI ACTION TABLET 200) but there are none of those brown/gold granules. There are only blue ones. Please take a look at the images below.

Any idea what is going on? I'm really worried now because I don't know if I should use these tablets or if it was a mistake that I used the older ones.. Were they damaged?

What is everyone using to keep their shellstone/travertine deck free of joint weeds and joint/surface algae without damaging the deck?

My deck (majority not on concrete base) is on crushed road base and sand. Not sure grouting is a solution given this so may just need to treat and wash but not sure other what the best substance to use would be to control these two issues.

We are currently building a new home with a pool. Latham Cancun Deluxe with built in spa and tanning ledge. Not sure of all the specs yet. Pool equipment should be set up tomorrow. Excited to be a pool owner again and may need some refreshers along the way.

Last year I upgraded to 2.007 and VSF pump kept getting turned off. I had to cycle the breaker to get the pump back on. I eventually downgraded to 1.067 and stayed there. Recently I noticed that 2.017 is installed and I did not install it.

Is there a way to disable auto updates? I just use it to schedule pumps/lights and report to HASS for graphs. I have no need for the new features.

As a last measure I can just disable internet access for that MAC address so I can still use the app in local mode but trying to avoid that.

Thanks a bunch.

For several days now, I have been noticing issues with the pump starting up in the morning because it does not successfully prime on its own in the morning.
Even when I do prime it and let it run the schedule, after it turns off, the pump looks like it has water. However, by next morning it would be empty again. Tried many potential fixes, replaced rubber gasket on lid, checked valves for leak, nothing seems to be helping.
So I set up a timelapse during the daytime to see what happens with the pump off. I was expecting to see the water level maybe gradually go down if there was some leak or air gap. But what I saw was that at one point the pump suddenly and quickly empties out.
I am trying to share the timelapse video via iCloud, hopefully that is allowed on this forum.
I have also attached a photo of the equipment. The spa return in the photo is completely off, but it does the same thing even when return is in the center.

I have an EasyTouch 8 system. Today my wireless remote will no longer connect, continuously saying "NO COMM". The antenna for the system (part number 520949) is what I'm guessing is the problem, as other things such as power cycling the system and doing the wireless address -> scanning procedure didn't work. The "RF LINK" and "485 LINK" LEDs on the antenna blink six times each, and from what I've read that means it needs to be replaced. Is that correct?

Anyways, it appears that the cost to replace it is around the same cost as ScreenLogic2 protocol adapters on Ebay, so I'm thinking about just switching to ScreenLogic2 and ditching the wireless remote. However, I'm finding ScreenLogic2 to be a bit confusing with a bunch of different part numbers and options. I have Ethernet drops right next to my EasyTouch8 system, so my plan was to simply run the RS-485 from the EasyTouch8 system into a protocol adapter and then plug that into the Ethernet drop. Is this all I need and then I can download the mobile app and the PC software to use it, or do I need anything else?

Also, the part numbers for this are a bit confusing for me. According to Pentair's website, the protocol adapter is 520500, but I'm also seeing numbers online such as 520535 and 520489. Does anybody know the difference between these? Are some older models than others? Can I use any of them?

Thank you!

I feel like the biggest idiot on this forum lately but here’s another question. I’ve looked at the pump run time article here.

Live in Phoenix. Pool is an in ground and 11,475 gallons, PebbleTec, liquid chlorine, no SWG, no heater, no spa, 3 2ft sheer decent water features, suction side robot with wall port, using a Betta robot for some surface skimming. Hayward VS950 pump and C4030 cartridge filter.

Can someone help me make sense of this flow chart from Hayward for my pump. I’m trying to determine best pump run time and speed to keep balance between having my water clean and costs low. Right now I’ve decided to try running 800rpm from 8am to 3:30pm for basic filtration and then 1500rpm from 3:30pm to 5pm while I add chemicals and brush. PSI is basically 0 here. I use the vacuum robot once a week at a higher speed around 2500-2700rpm and PSI goes to 8.

I was trying to calculate all the math to see what is best for my pool and TDH threw me for a loop. Pump to skimmer is probably 20 to 25ft apart. There are 8 maybe 9 elbows in the plumbing line. Plumbing is 2”.

Can someone explain this simply for me? If I look at this flow chart from Hayward it seems that 800rpm is probably too low and I should be between 2400 and 3000? That seems wrong to me and I feel like I’m missing something.

I was unable to complete my filter cleaning today. The filthily filters are clean, but not put back inside until the massive amount of sand is flushed out container. Unfortunately, tomorrow I'm having a heart procedure and coming home late afternoon/ evening.
Thoughts?

FC: 8.5 yesterday
CYA: 50 9 days ago

Hello everyone! Been lurking and following advice here and doing the slam method. Purchased the recommended TF-Pro kit for my 14K above ground vinyl pool, cartridge filter. I cleaned out the filter about twice a day since 2 days ago, it was a very green pool. Followed the app recommendations and woke up to a blue pool, but cloudy/milky in color. Can't quite fully see to the bottom of the pool though. Today I've applied two more gallons of liquid chlorine 7.5% as recommended, heres my levels:

FC - 4.5
PH - 7.2
TA - 90
CH - 300
CYA - 30
Phosphate tested last week at 204ppm at leslies, haven't tested since.

FC was low due to leaving to work for 12 hours. Came home and brought the level back up (I think, barely applied but I did the amount suggested). Followed by a 2nd cartridge rinse of the green algae, except this time there wasn't very much on there.

What are my next steps to clearing the pool up? I tried 3oz of clarifier but figured it wouldn't work. Which I guess it didn't, applied 9am and its 9pm and no noticeable difference.

Just keep on? another day or two of exactly what I'm doing? Pump runs 24/7.

thank you again for the help everyone!

Hello! We have lived at our home with our pool for a little over a year. I have successfully backwashed our filter a few times without issue. Today we had to drain water for the first time (multi-port set to "waste", using a backwash hose) due to a significant amount of rainfall nearly overflowing our pool, right before we leave for a trip with more rain to come. So we wanted to lower it a couple inches prior to leaving. We ran it a couple minutes on 1500rpm to lower the water, I went to increase the pump speed to 2755rpm to move along the process a bit, and the hose ended up slipping off with the increase in pressure, so we stopped the pump. (Not sure if that's relevant, but just in case it is.) It started to storm again so we ended up stopping there, and I set the pump back to filter. Upon turning the pump back on, I realized the pump had lost prime. It seemed able to recover relatively quickly, and after running it for a few seconds and letting some air out of the filter, the pump basket had no air bubbles, and bubbles stopped coming out of the returns shortly after.

All of that to say - is that normal? Does it indicate user error (aka I missed a step or did something wrong!) or any plumbing issues?

Hi,
DW wanted to use the spa today, however the heater failed to fire after putting the system in “SPA“ mode. So far, I have:
- Verified sufficiently high set point for spa temp
- Verified app and panel indicated heat was being commanded
- Manually turned on heater; verified fan, ignition and positive temp change at the jets

Finally, I tried to verify voltage at the heater terminal block via the wiring diagram. I was unable to measure a meaningful voltage across the block screw terminals. Should I assume the panel is shot?

Thank you,
Eric

New pool owner. Pool was like this when I bought it October 22. Had to replace the filter and pump and I am trying to anticipate what I’ll need to do when I reopen. Tile is is damaged in some places and water maybe leaking. I have a pot by the pool that doesn’t show the same loss as pool due to evaporation. I tried doing my own leak test with dye (the local companies don’t return my calls). Frankly, my water bill is manageable compared to my concerns for what I imagined it would cost to run a pool (less than 200) and I keep a Pool Sentry attached to a hose to keep my motor from burning out. The leaves are a pain. I plan to cut back/down some of the trees in either the fall or spring and replant evergreens further from the pool.

I know I am in for a long journey to get this pool back in shape and want to prioritize. None of this is keeping me from enjoying the pool but I’d like to have a 5 year plan to bring this back to its former beauty.

I want to diy when possible. I have acid washed another pool before and am generally handy. I have a pool guy who replaced the filter and pump but I do my own, almost daily, maintenance.

I have a 30k gallon in ground pool (20x40 ft). I updated to a VS pump running about 45 GPM and a Rapack 406A heater (~399Kbtus).

While the pool generally heats up at around 1.4 F/hour, the return jet temperature does not seem that high. I get a rise of about 8 F at 45 GPM. I think that is roughly half of the expected value.

Is this normal or is my internal bypass diverting too much water? The UG is working fine but I did not toy with the header to figure out the bypass valve.

Any suggestions for raising the outlet temperature? We enjoy the hot jets on the stairs.

Hello I have a Blue Essence by hayward, ever since this fellow hooked up this unit it has never worked all it reads is "hot" I have a salt cell that just reads blue essence no t-cell # on it, I realize that I've been ripped off, the pool service that installed this has nothing and I do mean nothing but horrible reviews he refuses to answer my call or return one so I have given up on any help from him have a serial # of 2A21111- something somewhere in that number is suppose to be the month and year of manufactured if anyone knows this, what do I do generator always reads hot and has never worked not once, if I knew I was allowed I'd throw his name out there, but it's help I need first, can anyone help

Curious at what RPM others have been running their in floor VSP.

I am at 3000 to get 20 psi at the new caretaker valve.

Newer sand filter gauge is running about 21 which is likely variation between instruments.

I need to clean out my pre pump filter it is full of leaves but I can’t figure out how even though I have done this once before. But when I opened the lid water gushed out of the basket so forcefully it almost knocked me over and I thought I would never ever get the lid back on and there was nobody to run to for help. I’m widowed, I live alone and most importantly I’m old and don’t have the strength to make that mistake again. I thought I knew what each valve did and whichever way the valve was facing I turned it in the opposite direction. There was a black one on the top I couldn’t figure out. If it’s ok I’m going to post a few pictures here and I hope it’s not impossible for someone could give me some pointers

Hello.....I am a new member. We recently purchases a house with a small pool and Pentair system. It has Easytouch control system with an ScreenLogic2 interface. I had no information from the previous owner who is not easy to get a hold of. I installed the app on my Iphone and had some basic information available, but unable to control anything. I went to Pentair for instructions on how to install software on my PC. I followed the instructions - I updated the firmware and installed the screen logic program. The applications appear to connect - it sees the IP address of the protocol adaptor, but I have no data on my iPhone and the PC never gets past "connecting to PC Controller Please Wait".

I have reset everything, but still have the same issue. I am sure it is something simple.