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2WeeksNotice

Silver Supporter
Jun 1, 2023
47
Illinois
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
July has been a learning curve month with first SLAM, trouble with hard fill water, dirty filters and a good sized party last weekend. Just finished adding softened water, filter swap, after party mini-SLAM, and passed OCLT last night. Here are the numbers from tonight after letting FC come down all day.
pH 7.5 (used 2:1 Pool water:distilled water method since FC was 13)
FC 13
CC 1
CH 300
TA 130
CYA 60
Salt 3400

Question 1: Recommendations on current CH and TA numbers after SLAM? I have tried working down the TA previously, but my pH does not rise that much on it's own. What are ramifications of TA normally in this range. It usually hangs around 120.
Question 2: Attached are my fill water options (private well) and my test numbers of them. In the future, I'd prefer to use the soft water because there is no iron staining like there is with the hard water. Also, the TA is slightly lower. However, is the 0 CH going to bring down the total pool CH too much? Any risk there with fiberglass or low CH in general?

Thanks for any advice
 

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If your pH remains consistant around 7.5, don't worry too much about the TA. If/when the pH does rise to about 8.0, then use enough acid to lower the pH down to about 7.2. That should help lower the TA a little, but not critical to rush.

As to the CH, unless you have a waterline tile, you really don't need much CH at all. TFP places a minimum CH of 250 only as a catch-all since we don't know if FG owners may have waterline tile or a heater that requires more CH.

Your CC is a bit elevated. Keep an eye on that. If you keep the pool covered, be sure to let the sun hit the water to eliminate those CCs.
 
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Good to hear on the TA.

No tile, so no big deal on the CH. What's the comment about the heater that requires more CH? How would I know if mine is one of those? Look in the manual? Hate to do that...

CC must have had an off day. It is normally 0.5, but will keep an eye on it; and we've been keeping the cover open more often.

Thank you. Really appreciate the expertise and quick feedback!
 
@Texas Splash ...some help again? Everything was going great for a week, and now a crash and cloudy water all of a sudden. o_O See attached numbers from this week for what I thought was pretty consistent process to get FC down and SWCG dialed in after last water add & mini-SLAM. Starting another SLAM now, Going to OCLT tonight to verify there's gremlins in there. Do you see anything in the numbers that help you understand what might have gone awry? Only thing I can guess is the 3" hard rain over the weekend (but pool was covered and rain pumped off), 5 chlorinated toads found in the skimmer, or running the heater ~3 hrs Sunday. Could there be leftover algae in there that never got cleaned up last SLAM??
 

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Do you see anything in the numbers that help you understand what might have gone awry?
It is interesting that the FC seemed to bounce around quite a bit. Weather may have some input, but there was a lot of FC movement. Knowing the results of your OCLT will be key. Sometimes cloudiness is just a heads-up that the water needs a bit of help for some reason. A little extra chlorine and letting the sun remove the CCs may help.
 
OCLT failed. FC dropped from 26 to 24. CC 1.0. So now I know what to do, but still wondering why the cloudiness came on so fast; all while FC was above or at top end of CYA 60 range. Rain shouldn't do anything like this, right? The heater comment? How about some leftover algae lurking on the bottom of the autocover? It was closed for most of Saturday and Sunday due to the rain. Otherwise it stays open during the day.

Weather may have some input, but there was a lot of FC movement.
I interpret the FC movement as me figuring out my SWCG. Shutting it off to get daytime FC loss (4ppm on sunny days), then me messing with time & % to understand output.
 
bounce an idea/theory off you: the cover well has a gravity drain at one end of course. I've been keeping it cleared of leaves etc as I thought that may have got me in to trouble after it clogged in June/July. At that point, there was maybe 1" of water and the cover was setting in this. This morning I checked the drain, and it was not blocked; however, the middle and far end of the well has 1/8" to 1/4" water in it...poor slope or drainage I'm guessing. AND the cover roll sags enought to drag thru this. The well is 85-90% poured concrete, but they built a treated lumber skeleton to pour up to. The ocassional 2x8 or 2x10 pieces of treated on the bottom of the well are a bit slimy. Not sure if dirt or algae. The well was dry prior to the weekend rain (Sat, Sun, & some yesterday); but now it's wet. Think it's possible this could be a source of algae? If so....:sick:
 

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Really odd… it’s back to totally clear today. Must have caught it with the SLAM just in time?

Cover well is washed out, sprayed with diluted LC, rinsed and fairly dry from sun today. The cover roll still lightly drags on the bottom. So I guess keeping the bottom clean might be important. Supposed to rain tomorrow so we’ll see if anything acts up again. Thanks for the help!!
 
Bad news, cloudiness is back yesterday afternoon. OCLT last night failed, FC dropped from 8.5 to 6.

I'm wondering why the back to back 3-5 day runs of clear water after SLAM/OCLT pass, then turns cloudy after I let the SLAM FC drift down to 7-10 range for a few days (while slowly ramping up the SWCG). I'm testing morning and evening, on occasion midday...FC has never dropped below 7 until this AM. Very light swimmer load this week. Any help??

Today's numbers:
ph 7.3
FC 6
CC 0.5
CH 300
TA 110
CYA 60
 
Mostly open if it’s sunny is our typical routine.
Okay, then to fail an OCLT confirms there is something missed. Looking back in this thread, we discussed some fluctuations wiht the FC whether due to testing variance or consumption. But beyond that, it's time to look at some culprits to FC loss which include:
- Light niche (if installed). This is N/A for the smaller LED lights, but if you have a large light with a hollow niche behind it, you'll want to pull the light out and inspect the niche.
- Drain covers (if you have main drains) can hide algae. Removing the cover(s) to inspect is a good idea.
- Handrails or any other hardware in the pool can hide algae.
- Inspect/clean y our skimmer, the weir door, and under the skimmer lid.
- That cover may still be suspect. You caught the trough area, but be certain the cover itself doesn't have something growing.

It's all in the details at this point.
 
Ok thanks for confirming what I was thinking. Will get after these things. Last week I did go under the cover and did not see anything on the underside. Looked very clean.

I am grasping here, but other ideas: Various foam toys, exercise stuff gets put on a wooden shelf in a plastic locker after use. Maybe something residual on there starts growing if not dried out before storage? Also, Sunday there was an inordinate amount of bird poop on the deck. Maybe they hit the water, and they are testing me?!?

thanks again! Will report back in a few days most likely.
 
SLAM to 24 FC and already the water is clearing significantly after only 5 hrs. Is this common? Wondering if this means anything at all, like maybe just fighting some small residual troublemaker?? Nonetheless will keep at it.
 
During the day Tuesday, the water cleared a lot more by 5PM. Then Tue night, I found this silly styrofaom panel behind the weir door! Some looks like black mold, and the corner was white/pink/slimy. So that got ripped out pretty quick and the entire skimmer box scrubbed completely. I think this was it...time will tell. OCLT barely failed Tue night, but passed Wed night. Water looks great this morning!

Styrofoam at the waterline in a skimmer seems kinda dumb? I don't have an immediate concern over the styrofoam not letting the weir door float, but are there other mat'ls that would trap contaminants less? I assume the weir door is to keep anything in the skimmer from floating back out into the pool.

Would this small amount of crud create a repeat problem where a big shock would temporarily stop it, but then as FC drops, it can become active again?

Thanks again for coaching through this. I'm thrilled to think I don't have to fight this every 7-10 days!!
 

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