Via a long twisted path I've ended up with a second house which has a lovely outdoor pool and spa. Wow pools can be a pain in the butt, however to cut down a long story we found a knowledgeable pool guy who recommended draining out some of the pool water gradually, and add fresh, to reduce the amount of sediment and especially minerals, as you can see build-up on the tiles and some leaching (?) of the plaster.

I got a Superior Pump 91250
Amazon.com
and connected it to the hose on hand, a 100' rubber of unknown inner diameter (likely 1/2"). Fired right up! So easy! Mmmm, draining the spa, but very slowly. No way close to the specified 1500 gallons per hour at 4 ft pumping height. So questions:
a) Superior do say the hose should be at least 3/4 inch. Maybe this is better?
Amazon.com
b) Even so, is that going to make a DRASTIC difference in output? (I guess I should get a hose like that regardless? And just try it?)
c) If I get another pump, what is a recommended brand? Recommended features? ("Oil-free"? etc)
Danke Schön!

Just started seeing a white line around tile edge. Used a 50/50 h20/muriatic acid mix without much effect. White line did not bubble at all. Chemistry from this morning below.

84*F water
FC - 9
CC - 0
CYA - 60
pH - 7.6
Alk - 80
CH - 320
Salt - 3400

I’m using SWG but supplementing with a few trichlor tabs in floating dispenser to increase CYA (have a lot left after transitioning to SWG)

Any ideas are appreciated

Hi,

I have the Pentair Easytouch control system for my 19,500 gallon pool. It has a two-speed filter pump. I'm trying to figure out what the best filter schedule is for this pool. I currently have it set to go for 10 hours during the daytime daily under the low speed setting. I haven't been using the high speed setting at all. I recently moved to this house with a pool, and this is my first time figuring something like this out. The previous owners had it set to go like 18 hours a day under a low setting, which seemed excessive to me. What do you think?

Thanks so much!

I have three of these returns in my inground pool. They are not directional as far as I can see. Can someone identify them and tell me how to make them directional, or how they come out to change them? As usual, pool builder of no value after sale.

Thanks,

Jim

Does anyone know how to remove the top rail? I expected the cap over the seal to pop off after removing one bolt from the side, but it's stuck.

Hi, we live in the okanagan, BC. Getting allot of ash in our pool due to wildfires. Clean the pool and next day there is black sediment on bottom of pool. Chemistry has been near perfect, had to lower ph that’s about it, pool is crystal clear, just the black sediment keeps coming back. Seem to me like the sand filter does not filter it out. Done back washes, changed sand, still have same problem. We even vacuumed to waste to no avail. Is there something I may be missing to get rid of this fine sediment?

Is there a better filter we should be using to get rid of fines? Would a DE filter be a better option? I don’t think our ash problem is going away anytime soon.

Local pool store says they have had to change a bunch of sand in peoples filters, that’s why we changed it. Really did not help though.

I am on the mend from some recent outpatient surgery--the stitches haven't dissolved off yet, but everything's closed up.

I'm not too keen on soaking in the pool all day until the stitches fall off, but my 4-year-old is itching to play in our pool. Normally he's not allowed to swim unless I'm in the water with him within arms reach at all times, but I'm debating letting him swim and sitting on the edge of the pool instead.

Other than the stairs, it's too deep for him to touch the bottom but we've been working on his swimming without flotation assistance all summer and he's a competent, though weak, swimmer. He can swim from one end of the pool to the other without touching the sides--and lift his head out to breathe while he's doing it-- and tread water for a couple minutes at a time, but his stroke isn't very efficient and his lungs run out of air fast enough that I don't think he could swim more than a few minutes without exhausting himself.

I'm think that's good enough I can hangout nearby but not necessarily in the water, keep both eyes on him at all times, and only go in if he pushes himself past his limits in the water. I was wondering at others' opinions/experiences with that.

In a recent storm most of my pool equipment was crushed by a huge tree. I have a ~20,000 pool with 1 1/2 inch pipes from the pool to the equipment. My pump has 2 inch ports as well as some of my other equipment. Should I use 2 inch pipes above ground or just put in reducers to 1 1/2 inches?

Hi all,

Just joined the forum! Moved from Colorado to Georgia and recently moved into our new house with a pool First pool ownership, so i'm looking to get as much info and hopefully contribute in the forum. Thanks!

Hey y'all,

First year pool owner here. Want to close pool but have been having algae issues. All chemicals are balanced unless I'm missing something. Algae keeps showing up where walls meet floor and random spots on floor. It's very light green and comes off easy, but it's there. I shared my pool log so hopefully you all can see that. The algae shows up even when all chemicals are testing in the ideal range. There is a chance my CYA numbers are off a little due to misreading it, but even if it's off by 10 or so it still falls in recommended range. I just vacuumed and brushed pool and added bleach according to SLAM. It's all in the pool log.

Can't run skimmer as water level is on the low side. Don't want to add water since I'll be draining below skimmer for closing. I do have two bottom drains so letting filter run like that. Just wondering if I'm doing everything correctly. My main concern is next year and not wanting to deal with the algae issue, when all things seem balanced correctly. I'm sure there's something I'm missing so coming to you all for advice!

Howdy! I have Circupool Universal25, but had to choose Edge25 for my profile because Universal40 is the only Universal option. Same issue in PoolMath. Can the Universal25 be added?

Tested my water this morning at 9:00am and FC was 5.2. Had 3 kids and two adults in the pool for 3 hours or so. Tested water again at 5:00 and it was .4. Tested it again to be sure and again it was .4.

I did add some stabilizer, calcium carbonate, and salt this morning as well.

No clue why the big drop as I’ve had more people in the pool for longer without such a huge decrease.

Any thoughts?

I’ll try to attach my numbers from Pool Math

==========================================
Barcelona
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Fiberglass
Volume: 17500 gallons
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 5.2 (8 hours ago)
CC: 0.2 (8 hours ago)
pH: 7.6 (8 hours ago)
TA: 60 (8 hours ago)
CH: 250 (8 hours ago)
CYA: 50 (8 hours ago)
SALT: 2600 (8 hours ago)
TEMPERATURE: 80° (8 hours ago)
CSI: -0.44 (8 hours ago)
==========================================
------------------------------------------
Chemical Addition 08-09-2023 @ 11:08 AM
------------------------------------------
+ 1 Pounds of DryStabilizer

------------------------------------------
Chemical Addition 08-09-2023 @ 11:07 AM
------------------------------------------
+ 40 Pounds of Salt

------------------------------------------
Chemical Addition 08-09-2023 @ 09:35 AM
------------------------------------------
+ 8 Pounds of CalciumChloride

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-09-2023 @ 09:11 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.2
Combined Chlorine: 0.2
pH: 7.6
Total Alkalinity: 60
Calcium Hardness: 250
CYA: 50
Salt: 2600
Temperature: 80°F
CSI: -0.44

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-07-2023 @ 11:17 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.6
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.6
Salt: 2600
CSI: -0.30

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-05-2023 @ 12:53 PM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.5
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.8
CSI: -0.11

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-03-2023 @ 11:34 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.0
Combined Chlorine: 0.2
pH: 7.6
Total Alkalinity: 60
CSI: -0.30

Hello,

There must certainly be a few (many ?) places here where this is discussed in depth.
Could you please show me the way to the most relevant ones ?
Thank you in advance.

Nota : pool in France, pH and chlorine controlled via peristaltic pumps, pH and ORP probes, sulfuric acid (PVC liner) and bleach

I've been reading several posts about liquid chlorine losing potency due to weather temperatures. Here in Central Texas, its been 100 degrees about every day for the past 3 months. I usually buy just one container at Walmart which based on my pool size and CYA, lasts a fairly long time. Unfortunately, Walmart was out of liquid chlorine and I had to revert to buying at Home Depot their 3-pack case which they store outdoors which the date indicates 7/23. The liquid chlorine containers are at 10% strength. Taking a conservative thought process about the decrease in strength due to temps, I'm thinking I should add additional chlorine. Using the Pool Math app, instead of 10% strength, use 6% and I'll be ahead of the curve. Thoughts? Tks

hard time figuring this out. My pool runs at 28-30 psi. Even after cleaning filters. None of my pool jets are working, sometime after cleaning and I start it back up they work for a few minutes with a ton of bubbles and then they stop. My system has a infloor with popup, seem to work ok.

Also, takes awhile for the filter to prime and lead vac canister to fill and prime. Checked for leaks throughout and non detected. I’m thinking it’s a possible bad impeller or diffuser or blocked.

Thoughts?

WILL-DO: Post summary of readings here

Apologies for the verbose post - once I understand more, I will update the WILL-DO portion above with a, b, c below

These are readings from my aunt's pool last week, I didn't get around to posting until today.
I took the water sample around 7 - 7:30AM before dropping the kids off and heading to the office. I did the tests likely between 9:30 - 10AM, so 3 hours after taking the sample.

The sample was stored in a screw on brand new plastic canister all this time and smelled of Chlorine (or is that Chloramines?).

The first test I did was the FC, CC test.

With a 10ml water sample (taken a foot below the top of the surface), I added R-0870 and it turned pink

1. My R-0870 is very clumped up and I tried to crush the clumps using the scoop but that didn't seem to work - adding it to the sample did dissolve 80% of it but 20% of it remained undissolved - is this something to worry about?

I added one drop of R-0871 and it cleared immediately.

2. This means FC = 0.5 (or less)?

Then added 5 drops of R-003 and it turned pink on the 4th and 5th drop. I added one drop of R-0871 and it cleared immediately, again.

3. This means CC = 0.5 (or less)?
4. This means TC = FC + CC = 1.0 (or less)?

I then proceeded to do the TA. On the 5th drop of R-009, the green immediately turned dark pink (compared to the pink in the FC, CC test but not red - is this something to worry about?)

5. This means TA = 50 (or less)?

Last was the CYA test - the red capped CYA bottle did turn cloudy but the black dot was always visible from the top even after I filled up the tube completely.

6. This means the pool has very little CYA?
7. But it's not 0 CYA because it did turn cloudy while a 0 CYA sample would never turn cloudy at all?

Given all of the above, is it correct to say:

a. TC = FC + CC = 0.5 (or less) + 0.5 (or less) = 1.0 (or less)
b. TA = 50 (or less)
c. Non measurable CYA

To refresh your memory, this pool is dark swampy green (like this Featured - Pool green and provides no visibility 7" below surface) and feels like it's starting to smell like the beach (I've been adding 1Gal of LC every day in the evening on my way back from work). The DE Filter is currently bypassed and pump runs 12 hours every day building a 14PSI pressure in the system.

I am planning to visit my aunt again on Sunday and can take readings again.

Hey folks,

I’ve had cloudy water after doing a Zero Alkalinity acid treatment for about a week trying to rebalance the chemicals.

I decided to do a CalHypo shock and strangely the water started tasting salty. No Chloramine smell either which normally is good…but it’s weird.

We don’t have a SWG.

Anyone know what could cause that?

When measuring your pool to figure out what robot cleaner you need, do you include the coping in the measurement? I'm right at the cut off point for the Dolphin E20. I'm measuring between 32 & 33 ft long. That measurement includes the coping.

I’m trying to get my levels balanced as I’ll put my SWG in this weekend. I put my salt at 3500 ppm but it’s probably about 3,000 I will be increasing it once I get up and running.

My PH is about 7.7 right now I am currently adding 3lbs of stabilizer to increase to 50 ppm, I know the recommended levels is higher but going into the close of summer, do I need It higher right now?

CH is at 300 ish, me and these tests don’t get a long. Further trading suggests not adding CH and let it increase on its own.

TA- this and ph impact CSI the most. I am at 70 within the ideal range but my csi is -0.27+ especially if my got to 7.6. I am working on keeping it at 7.8 since that’s the ideal level for my CSI.

You’ll see both SS with the different TA levels, is this something I should increase instead of being further negative with the csi reading?

Also, the recommended levels of Chlorine is lower with SWG why is that? CYA level is recommended higher with the SWG, wouldn’t FC follow?

My Aqualink 3.0 is suddenly displaying the wrong pool temps (and the displayed temp sometimes bounces around to being VERY off and much lower than it really is). I have a manual pool thermometer to check. . Not sure if this is an Aqualink issue or pool thermostat. The app also will not let me calibrate upwards, only down, even on the website. This seems very strange. I Don't want to replace the pool thermostat unless I have to !

Is this an app issue ? I can't get any help from Fluidra.

THANKS FOR ANY HELP !!

We bought our house a year ago and we knew the pool was going to need some serious work as it is old. We are still waiting on replacement coping but so far my before and after pics are attached.

New pool install, with a cartridge filter…yet every time I run it I get tan sand-like substance all along the bottom of the pool in the vinyl wrinkles. Vacuum it all up, clean the (brand new) filter, then run it again and more sand. The cycle continues on and on these past 3 weeks. Chlorine has never been below 11ppm and the water was trucked in clean and has always been clear as glass, so it can’t be algae, right? It’s gritty but not quite like actual sand; and with a cartridge filter there’s no sand to be had anyway. Is it some kind of byproduct of the SWCG?…I am still getting the balance right, so maybe some chemical reaction is happening there? I’ve read a few sites that say there can be some residue created by SWCGs, but not sure if that’s true. Thanks for any insights you can provide!

15’ round, No power to the pump or filter or saltwater generator yet. Waiting on a permit. I’ve been adding chlorine and stabilizer and just testing that in the pH. Anything else I should be doing?

Hello folks I'm an old guy trying to maintain an old pool.

After Hurricane Hillary came through we finally decided to remove the Italian Cypresses that we have around our pool. I've attached a before and after photo.

I just wanted to be sure I'm going to be on the right path before when I start cleaning the pool when they are done. The pool was balanced before they started. I plan on skimming as much as I can out with my pool rake (skimmer bag). I have to find the piece of coping they broke when they lost control of a section and dropped it. When I'm pretty sure I have most that I can get, I'm going to buy some additional liquid chlorine to add when I start up my pump. I'm planning on putting skimmer socks on the skimmer basket and pump basket before I start the pump up. I'm also going to purchase some additional DE as I'm sure I'll have to backwash the filter several times.

Does this sound like a good plan to start, or is there something else I should address?

Black screen, no power??? I'm a chemist, not an electrician! Electricity scares me! So this is my first time asking for help here in five years. I won't mess with the 220v electric, I don't have a voltimeter, I can do lots of things but this wiring scares the Crud out of me. I hate to ask for help but maybe I missed something? (And thanks to EVERYONE, I've had a truly trouble free pool because of these forums.) [Maryland, 2018 38x18 3>9ft 28,000g gunite clover-shaped saltwater pool, Jandy DE filtration, no heater, open May-October. Dolphin pool robot.] I have a degree in chemistry and am super handy and I LOVE my pool, I take meticulous care of it, and so all is right with the world. Until yesterday. This unit (see pic) was working great (I replaced the salt cell last summer) no worries. Turned the pump off last night before another thunderstorm, woke up this morning and checked the unit and it's lit up green but blank. Cool. Turned it all off again to rinse the basket filter, primed the system, turn on, get pressure, check! Check! Look at SWG...now it's gray. Off. Followed all the troubleshooting in the online manual, tested all the breakers, everything checks out. No power. Turned off everything, went inside, turned off power at indoor panel (we have a Generac 8kw with a separate breaker panel--pool/outside is not on it but I switched it off anyway before this whole process), waited 5 minutes or so, flipped outdoor breakers back on in the correct order. Went outside and turned on pump/SWG (they are wired together on one switch with two breakers) and the pump comes on fine but the SWG display lights up green for a second then goes black again.
Time to call a professional? Or any other suggestions? And yes, I held the power button down for 6 seconds. Like, a thousand freaking times. Any other simple tricks? Please and thank you!

See we have a larger pool around 20,000 gallons i think. We need a new cover but we just spent a lot on plaster and repairs. So i don't think we want to invest in an automatic cover. We currently just have a large mesh one with water bags. What do you suggest we can get? That's somewhat cost-effective?

I am thinking about doing a soft closing for the first time this year so I don't have to deal with all the leaves that fall into our pool this time of year. Our pool guy who will be winterizing our pool on November 1st says that many of their customers do a soft closing when they have a pool surrounded by trees like ours and it isn't cold enough to close it. Before I get our pool ready for a soft closing, I have a few questions:

1. Before we put our mesh cover on, do I need to do anything other than make sure all of the chemicals are balanced, vacuum it out so it is clean, and get it up to shock level?

2. What PH level should we try to obtain before putting the mesh cover on? Since our mesh cover lets rainfall into the pool and our PH tends to always hover around 7.8, I wonder if we need to lower the PH before putting the cover on since it would be difficult to add muriatic acid later with the cover on.

3. How many hours a day will we need to run the pump to keep it clear?

4. Is there any way we could collect a water sample and add liquid chlorine to the pool without removing a bunch of anchors and peeling back the cover near the return? Its difficult to get the anchors on the loop-lock cover off to peel back the cover, and I worry that the chlorine is going to get on the cover while pouring it in and it will bleach it out. I know that there isn't a device you can buy to do this, but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions or hacks to do this.

5. Is there anything I could put around the perimeter of the pool to keep leaves from blowing under the cover? Since our pool is surrounded by trees, a lot of leaves always blow under the cover, and I worry that the water could turn green if this happens before the water temperature dips below 60.

I’m reaching out to those who have done this update.
Several recommendations to use the Tasmota firmware with the Sonoff RFR2. From my reading, I will need to modify the unit with jumpers?

I wanted to bump up my calcium by about 80 or 100 ppm. I did so late at night, several hours after topping off the chlorine to 6 ppm. In the morning the FC was essentially 0 ppm. I added enough liquid chlorine to bring it back up to 6 ppm, then a few hours later it was around 1 ppm. Finally after a 'standard' shock (SL without the AM) things seem to be back to normal.

We did have ~5 kids in the 3800 gal pool that day before I topped off the FC, so I assumed it was some type of mass urination event, even though these same kids have been in there a couple times without any prior problems with the FC. Then after searching the forums I see that I am not alone in this experience. Might have be the calcium, possibly contaminated with organics.

I have plenty of the suspect chemical left in the bag. I might do a mini controlled experiment on some water in two buckets, one with a fresh dose of calcium, to see if the FC drops overnight in that one.

Anyway, I don't have any real questions about it. Just documenting & sharing here.

UPDATE: See post #29 for my controlled test