When measuring your pool to figure out what robot cleaner you need, do you include the coping in the measurement? I'm right at the cut off point for the Dolphin E20. I'm measuring between 32 & 33 ft long. That measurement includes the coping.

I’m trying to get my levels balanced as I’ll put my SWG in this weekend. I put my salt at 3500 ppm but it’s probably about 3,000 I will be increasing it once I get up and running.

My PH is about 7.7 right now I am currently adding 3lbs of stabilizer to increase to 50 ppm, I know the recommended levels is higher but going into the close of summer, do I need It higher right now?

CH is at 300 ish, me and these tests don’t get a long. Further trading suggests not adding CH and let it increase on its own.

TA- this and ph impact CSI the most. I am at 70 within the ideal range but my csi is -0.27+ especially if my got to 7.6. I am working on keeping it at 7.8 since that’s the ideal level for my CSI.

You’ll see both SS with the different TA levels, is this something I should increase instead of being further negative with the csi reading?

Also, the recommended levels of Chlorine is lower with SWG why is that? CYA level is recommended higher with the SWG, wouldn’t FC follow?

My Aqualink 3.0 is suddenly displaying the wrong pool temps (and the displayed temp sometimes bounces around to being VERY off and much lower than it really is). I have a manual pool thermometer to check. . Not sure if this is an Aqualink issue or pool thermostat. The app also will not let me calibrate upwards, only down, even on the website. This seems very strange. I Don't want to replace the pool thermostat unless I have to !

Is this an app issue ? I can't get any help from Fluidra.

THANKS FOR ANY HELP !!

We bought our house a year ago and we knew the pool was going to need some serious work as it is old. We are still waiting on replacement coping but so far my before and after pics are attached.

New pool install, with a cartridge filter…yet every time I run it I get tan sand-like substance all along the bottom of the pool in the vinyl wrinkles. Vacuum it all up, clean the (brand new) filter, then run it again and more sand. The cycle continues on and on these past 3 weeks. Chlorine has never been below 11ppm and the water was trucked in clean and has always been clear as glass, so it can’t be algae, right? It’s gritty but not quite like actual sand; and with a cartridge filter there’s no sand to be had anyway. Is it some kind of byproduct of the SWCG?…I am still getting the balance right, so maybe some chemical reaction is happening there? I’ve read a few sites that say there can be some residue created by SWCGs, but not sure if that’s true. Thanks for any insights you can provide!

15’ round, No power to the pump or filter or saltwater generator yet. Waiting on a permit. I’ve been adding chlorine and stabilizer and just testing that in the pH. Anything else I should be doing?

Hello folks I'm an old guy trying to maintain an old pool.

After Hurricane Hillary came through we finally decided to remove the Italian Cypresses that we have around our pool. I've attached a before and after photo.

I just wanted to be sure I'm going to be on the right path before when I start cleaning the pool when they are done. The pool was balanced before they started. I plan on skimming as much as I can out with my pool rake (skimmer bag). I have to find the piece of coping they broke when they lost control of a section and dropped it. When I'm pretty sure I have most that I can get, I'm going to buy some additional liquid chlorine to add when I start up my pump. I'm planning on putting skimmer socks on the skimmer basket and pump basket before I start the pump up. I'm also going to purchase some additional DE as I'm sure I'll have to backwash the filter several times.

Does this sound like a good plan to start, or is there something else I should address?

Black screen, no power??? I'm a chemist, not an electrician! Electricity scares me! So this is my first time asking for help here in five years. I won't mess with the 220v electric, I don't have a voltimeter, I can do lots of things but this wiring scares the Crud out of me. I hate to ask for help but maybe I missed something? (And thanks to EVERYONE, I've had a truly trouble free pool because of these forums.) [Maryland, 2018 38x18 3>9ft 28,000g gunite clover-shaped saltwater pool, Jandy DE filtration, no heater, open May-October. Dolphin pool robot.] I have a degree in chemistry and am super handy and I LOVE my pool, I take meticulous care of it, and so all is right with the world. Until yesterday. This unit (see pic) was working great (I replaced the salt cell last summer) no worries. Turned the pump off last night before another thunderstorm, woke up this morning and checked the unit and it's lit up green but blank. Cool. Turned it all off again to rinse the basket filter, primed the system, turn on, get pressure, check! Check! Look at SWG...now it's gray. Off. Followed all the troubleshooting in the online manual, tested all the breakers, everything checks out. No power. Turned off everything, went inside, turned off power at indoor panel (we have a Generac 8kw with a separate breaker panel--pool/outside is not on it but I switched it off anyway before this whole process), waited 5 minutes or so, flipped outdoor breakers back on in the correct order. Went outside and turned on pump/SWG (they are wired together on one switch with two breakers) and the pump comes on fine but the SWG display lights up green for a second then goes black again.
Time to call a professional? Or any other suggestions? And yes, I held the power button down for 6 seconds. Like, a thousand freaking times. Any other simple tricks? Please and thank you!

See we have a larger pool around 20,000 gallons i think. We need a new cover but we just spent a lot on plaster and repairs. So i don't think we want to invest in an automatic cover. We currently just have a large mesh one with water bags. What do you suggest we can get? That's somewhat cost-effective?

I am thinking about doing a soft closing for the first time this year so I don't have to deal with all the leaves that fall into our pool this time of year. Our pool guy who will be winterizing our pool on November 1st says that many of their customers do a soft closing when they have a pool surrounded by trees like ours and it isn't cold enough to close it. Before I get our pool ready for a soft closing, I have a few questions:

1. Before we put our mesh cover on, do I need to do anything other than make sure all of the chemicals are balanced, vacuum it out so it is clean, and get it up to shock level?

2. What PH level should we try to obtain before putting the mesh cover on? Since our mesh cover lets rainfall into the pool and our PH tends to always hover around 7.8, I wonder if we need to lower the PH before putting the cover on since it would be difficult to add muriatic acid later with the cover on.

3. How many hours a day will we need to run the pump to keep it clear?

4. Is there any way we could collect a water sample and add liquid chlorine to the pool without removing a bunch of anchors and peeling back the cover near the return? Its difficult to get the anchors on the loop-lock cover off to peel back the cover, and I worry that the chlorine is going to get on the cover while pouring it in and it will bleach it out. I know that there isn't a device you can buy to do this, but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions or hacks to do this.

5. Is there anything I could put around the perimeter of the pool to keep leaves from blowing under the cover? Since our pool is surrounded by trees, a lot of leaves always blow under the cover, and I worry that the water could turn green if this happens before the water temperature dips below 60.

I’m reaching out to those who have done this update.
Several recommendations to use the Tasmota firmware with the Sonoff RFR2. From my reading, I will need to modify the unit with jumpers?

I wanted to bump up my calcium by about 80 or 100 ppm. I did so late at night, several hours after topping off the chlorine to 6 ppm. In the morning the FC was essentially 0 ppm. I added enough liquid chlorine to bring it back up to 6 ppm, then a few hours later it was around 1 ppm. Finally after a 'standard' shock (SL without the AM) things seem to be back to normal.

We did have ~5 kids in the 3800 gal pool that day before I topped off the FC, so I assumed it was some type of mass urination event, even though these same kids have been in there a couple times without any prior problems with the FC. Then after searching the forums I see that I am not alone in this experience. Might have be the calcium, possibly contaminated with organics.

I have plenty of the suspect chemical left in the bag. I might do a mini controlled experiment on some water in two buckets, one with a fresh dose of calcium, to see if the FC drops overnight in that one.

Anyway, I don't have any real questions about it. Just documenting & sharing here.

UPDATE: See post #29 for my controlled test

I am going to convert my pool to use a Pentair IC60 SWG for chlorine production and I have a question about the plumbing. I have an Intelliflo3 pump for may main filter. I usually my pump just enough to make sure the skimmers are working properly. Sometimes I run it a higher speed to push extra water theough some bubblers for my toddler grandchildren. Somewhere over 2,400 RPMs I exceed the 80 GPM threshold Pentair says requires a bypass loop. (I wish I had put the bubblers on a separate pump but that is a topic for another thread.) The Intellichlor installation manual shows a diagram with a flow control valve in the straight pipe that bypasses the SWG. What can I do so that I get enough flow to the SWG at the lower speed, probably 1,200-1,400, but allows the over the limit volume to bypass the SWG without having to manually set a diverter valve when I change speeds?

Hi!

I am planning on closing my pool next weekend, but I think my pool filter is at a point where it is due for a backwash. I would hate to backwash and then waste adding DE back to the filter because I plan on taking the DE cartridges out for the winter. Am I able to to do the backwash and remove the cartridges and then go about closing the pool as usual without the cartridges in the filter?

so in short can I shock my pool and run the filter for a day without the DE cartridges inside the filter, or could I backwash and shock the pool the day before, and then run the filter without adding DE for a day?

Thank you!

I have a Hayward VSP with a Prologic that I control from the AquaConnect app. The app stopped responding last weekend, and the Prologic is throwing a VSP Comm Error. The pump does respond to commands from the Prologic keypad, so the error message is confusing.

I tried power-cycling the Prologic - still throws the error. Also just power-cycled the AquaConnect bridge (the black device that sends wireless signals to the base station), and now the app is throwing a "Base Station Not Responding" error. Before it was just blank. The lights on the bridge are flashing, so it appears to be working.

My normal assumption from these symptoms would be that the base station has crapped out, but the VSP Comm Error is confusing. Any ideas?

Edit: Mods, it might make sense to move this to the automation section.

I've been searching on this site (which has been enormously helpful to me in my 13 months as a pool owner) and online in general for information on troubleshooting Polaris robotic pool cleaners but haven't found what I'm looking for. The short version of the story is that I left my robot and control unit outside in heavy rain and now it doesn't turn on. The control unit was connected to a GFCI circuit that didn't trip, and nothing else on the circuit lost power or functionality. There's zero sign of water entry in the control unit which, while not intended to be left out in the rain, is pretty nicely sealed against water entry anyway. It's been a lot of years since I was actively working in electronics, but I do have basic electronics skills and I cracked the control unit open and checked incoming power and the power supply fuse and that's all good. There are no visible signs of damage to the boards or components.

My question, if you're still reading, is to ask a fellow owner of one of these to tell me whether the control unit powers on (lights up when you push the buttons) if the floating cable to the robot is disconnected from it. I don't remember and probably never tried, and can't find the answer to this simple question online, and before I go on focusing all of my attention on the control unit, I want to make sure that, with the robot cable completely disconnected from the control unit, the control unit should still show signs of life (lights). If not, my control unit may be okay and the issue might be with the robot or the floating cable between. It's possibly that the electronics and wiring were designed such that if the robot's not connected, the control unit doesn't receive power. So if you have one of this model would you please try that and tell me? Thanks in advance!

I'm going to attach some photos just for fun and because it doesn't cost (me) anything.

DTShreve said:

I'm replacing the diffuser on my pump but I can't get the screws holding the diffuser in place to tighten because the hole threads are stripped. I'm thinking of using an adhesive to keep the screws in place. What underwater adhesive would work best in this situation, or do you have another solution that's worked for you? Thanks.

Click to expand...

Were you able to fix this? Did Helicoil work?
thanks, David - Dallas

My Raypak 266A (installed in 2007) sparks, the pilot light is lit, but the main burner does not light. The unit is not displaying any codes. Can anyone help me as to how to do a diagnostic to figure out which component is bad? I do have a multimeter, and while not an expert, I know the basics. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

My Pentair Intellibrite 5g color led light's engine stopped working. No apparent burn marks but notice that even though my PX300 was wired for 12v i'm getting nearly 13v at the unit (wired correctly per the label).
So:
can anyone tell me what the tolerance of this engine really is (don't need to burn up a $600 part)?
since the PX300 also have provisions for 13v could my unit have gone bad since wired for 12v it is outputting a higher than the listed 12v AC?

I am currently running an Intermatic RC2163BFE (https://www.intermatic.com/Product/RC2163BFE) that is failing. I've had to replace the heater control board and luckily was able to find one for a reasonable price (used) on eBay. I'm not even sure I could get the part new anywhere at this point.

I'm thinking the Pentair IntelliCenter System (Load Center with i5P Personality Kit) - Part number 523448 but I'm not really sure that is the correct one (very confused).

I basically want to have the ability to turn on the spa (currently a very simple rotary timer switch to activate the actuators), monitor the pump (remote/WiFi/app) and allow the heater to work. I don't think I need to do anything for the SWG as it just comes on with the pump currently (but again, I may be not understanding).

My equipment is as follows, any advice is welcome!

At some point I will also replace the gas heater with an electric heat pump - but not for a year or two.

so is ecofill better than replastering pool? I heard it lasts 30 plus years and replastering lasts 8-10. We just replastered and i now am figuring this out!

Please advise

A brief timeline of events

September 2021: No issues closing and pool company A said no problems flushing my lines.

May 2022: Pool company B installed a new liner in pool.

September 2022: Pool Company A says the line from the skimmer to the main drain is clogged. Pool is closed as it happens while im not home.


September 2023: I remember the clog issue and I inspect the main drain and find this. It looks like the main drain was plugged by pool company B who installed the liner.

My question is do I leave it? Did they forget to take it out when they installed the liner? Is there a benefit to this? They are closed till Monday and I’d like to get this figured out asap.

Any insight would be appreciated.

range of cost to replaster
We have a 32x16 gunite pool. It needs to be replastered and two skimmers replaced. I just got our first bid - nothing fancy - just replastering and replacing skimmers with Sta-Rite U3. Total is around 24K, does that seem reasonable for just basic replastering? We'll look into additional bids, but not too many folks out here in the Pacific NW who do pools.

Pool deck materials. Concrete or tile? Do we have to have concrete as a base no matter what?
We're also going to have to replace the pool deck - that's a separate contractor. Not sure if we should be contacting the concrete company no matter what, even if we do want to have a tile pool deck? Is concrete better than tile?

Thanks to this group for any insight/perspective you can give!

Hello all
I found this minutes ago on the pool's floor, and I can't see where it belongs.
It's either from my Betta solear skimmer, or my Explorer 30.
Looking at both devices, I can't easily tell.
Might someone know?
Thanks

Hi Everyone!

What would cause high filter pressure on a brand new FNS60? On startup the pressure shot up to 30psi and remained the same after adding the required amount of DE.

EQUIPMENT SETUP

Pump - Pentair Whisperflo 1.5hp
Filter - Pentair FNS60
In-line chlorinator
Heater - Mastertemp 250

I bought a K2006 (not the C version) for testing this year, since the C version is basically impossible to find up here in Canada. Since then I have bought the Speed Stir with vial, a few bottles of larger 2 oz reagents, the SampleSizer, etc. Basically all the testing supplies don't fit in the box anymore, and when I replace my reagents I will buy the 2oz bottles so even less room soon.

My questions is does anyone else use a different storage/transport box to store all their stuff? I was thinking of grabbing a Pelican Case or something similar, but that seems excessive for what I need.

Hello All,

I’ve kept my 14k plaster pool up and running through the winter with small top offs of bleach and acid.

I’m in the process of getting things ramped up and I’m having an extremely difficult time with some stains that are most prevalent on my wet deck and spa bench. At first I figured it was just extra alkaline fine dirt that gets kicked up and settles after windstorms (most of my neighbors still haven’t landscaped their backyards). However, this stuff does not budge. It feels like the dirt has literally turned to cement and is embedded in the plaster now.

It feels rough and looks identical to dirt but no amount of acid, direct application of chlorine, or vitamin C makes a dent. Even when I scrub with a scotch brite pad it may slightly lighten the stain but does not remove it.

Has anyone in the Southwest run into similar stains on their plaster and have any idea how I can get this stuff off?

I tested my water today with the Lamotte ColorQ 2X and these are my current results:

Temperature: 60.5 degrees
Salt: 3650
PH: 7.8
FC: 6.8
ADJ ALK: 112
Cal Hard: 552
CYA: 80
FE: 0
CU: 0

I have an Aqua Plus controller and am receiving the "Communication Error" on the local display.
I have followed the steps in the "ProLogic Diagnostic Manual" down to where everything is disconnected.
I have checked continuity for the cable to the local display.
Checked all the fuses; etc.
Any ideas on what to do next?

Hi all! I’m new to this. I have 24’ above ground pool. It’s 3 years old and I noticed small sinkholes ( at least that’s what I think they’re called) in several areas. They’re a no specific pattern to them. I also felt two rocks. I’m not leaking any water. Should I be concerned and is there anyway to prevent more from occurring? We do live on a sloped lot and the pool is dug into a small hill.
We also have a deck around the back side of the pool. I thought maybe the water that collects behind the pool could be eroding the sand and soil since the water has to go somewhere. Anyone have a thought on that? Any advice or comments would be appreciated. Thanks all!