Howdy! I have an Easytouch panel without the app so the interface is challenging. I have a Pentair Mastertemp Heater hooked up to the control panel.

Right now, I have a daily schedule where the pool pump runs 10 hours over night without the pump.

I have a new situation where I need the pool to be 77 degrees by 9am on M-F. This is only 2 degrees warmer than current temp without any heat.

How should I adjust my schedules to get the heater to engage for just a few hours before 9am? I don’t want heater to run all night.

Is it possible to have one pool schedule with Heater On, and one pool schedule with Heater Off?

Thanks!

Hello,

I recently purchased a home with a pool. Previously I had zero experience working with pools. We tried opening the pool ourselves and ended up with algae. Water was green and cloudy with noticeable algae floating on surface.

Couple weeks later, water is now crystal clear but we have brown spots scattered throughout the floor of the pool. When brushing it off it returns (not sure about if it returns to exact spot or not). And when vacuuming it to waste there seems to be an improvement but also seems to return in some places. Or I could just be missing spots. Sometimes they are so small that it is easy to miss at first glance.

After looking at stuff online it kind of sounds like yellow algae due to:
-Brushing causes it to poof up in a cloud
-It returns

But then these aren't happening:
-Doesn't appear to be on walls
-It is all over the pool not just in the more shady areas
-Water chemistry seems to be mostly fine and it is clear. We had high alkalinity that we got down and now pH is a smidge low.
-We are in the midwest and sounds like it is less common outside of the south.

I've tried touching it and seeing what it feels but it was just too hard to tell with 100% certainty because I have to go underwater (since it isn't on walls) and it immediately blows away when touched. There was one spot that maybe felt slimy but I think it felt gritty in other places.

I've tried asking a couple different pool stores about it and neither seemed concerned about it. Just mentioned vacuuming it out. If it is dirt/something that can be vacuumed out does it normally more than one go around?

We don't have a test kit yet but have been utilizing the pool store down the road. I understand that isn't ideal but here's the latest results from them:
FC: 3.86
TC: 3.97
CC: .1
pH: 7.1
Hardness: 197
Alkalinity: 146
CYA: 35
Copper: .3
Iron: .1
Phosphate: 1298

I'll attach some pictures. It is hard to pickup in photos but I'll post one and then another of same spot zoomed in. Would appreciate any suggestions on what it could be.

Hello all.

I just got the screenlogic and Jandy Heater/Chiller installed in my pool Question regarding the setting on the app, should I use "Heater" or H.Pump Pref". Also, the Heater Button flashing white. I appreciate any input and advise.

Thanks!

I have a number of the gray 3 port Jandy valves that were installed in 1992. I have lubed them occasionally and they work fine with no leaks.

As I work out the plan to upgrade all my equipment should I replace them or do they last forever?

Hi all, and thanks for reading my question. I had my pool resurfaced about 5 or 6 years ago and recently noticed the steps were feeling a little rough. I got concerned about pitting (I don't really know what it looks like, so it was the first thing I thought), although I suppose it could just be wear and tear from the very harsh Gulf environment. I'm in the FL panhandle about 1/3 mile from the Gulf.

I got two different kinds of tests for hardness - the rest of my pool chemistry is fine. The two tests yielded wildly different results and am just wondering what other folks do when this happens.

Taylor Ca Hardess Test (the drop kind with 3 vials) = 650ppm
JNW pool & spa strips (which tests "total hardness") = 120ppm

First off, is total hardness different than Calcium hardness? If they're the same, and the results are measuring the same thing, then regardless of which one is more accurate the hardness is way off - but in which direction?

My current plan is to get the rest of the chemistry just PERFECT, wait a few days and then test again. But, any other thoughtswould be appreciated.

I currently have a US Motors C55CXJWN-2193 which needs to be replaced. I have an in ground chlorine based pool.

Any pump recommendations or tips as to selecting which one I should purchase?

New to the forum and really just looking for advice on a new pool install. I hope I've come to the right place! Living in the St. Lous, MO area we are leaning towards a fiberglass pool (for budgetary purposes when compared to a gunite) but would love to learn more. Additionally, knowing next to nothing, I want to see if some of the quotes we've received are in the realm of realistic at this time. They sure seem high to me and I'm sure prices have come up, but I figured people here would be able to tell me! Anyways, looking forward to actively participating in the forum going forward and learning along the way!

Hi! I’m hoping someone has seen this before and can help me.

I just cleaned and refilled my tub yesterday. Added appropriate chems,etc. And I keep noticing these translucent, slimy flakes floating in the tub. ALOT of them.

It’s so gross. And I haven’t even sat in the tub yet!

I clean it thoroughly. Sanitized and even bought new filters on Friday and replaced them thinking it was fiber particles.

It’s backbreaking and costly to continue draining and refilling the tub and I would like to get to the root of the problem.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

It has been years since I’ve posted! TFP helped me keep things running perfectly for years. I was wondering if you all can diagnose my brand new issue with my Pentair Easy Touch Panel. It’s working fine in auto mode, however when I switched it to service mode, set my filter to backwash, then pressed the filter button to flush the filter, it made a clicking noise. Works fine again in auto mode. Any ideas what’s up? Thanks

Based on my current measurements, what is recommended to leave in the pool if gone for 8-9 days?

I am offering parts from a Dolphin S300i that ceased functioning. I'm not offering the motor assembly, the blue cord, rubber parts or gears as they all needed to be replaced. The unit is/was 4.5 years old and the parts show normal wear and fading. The power supply functions well - it's the motors that died. Here's what I have:

For Sale:
Power supply ($120)
Caddy ($60)
Filter basket assembly with both standard mesh and pleated filters ($60)

Give Away (locally):
Plastic frame/chassis/shell parts
Impeller blade
Rollers

If anyone is interested, I have photos. Please PM me. Thanks.

Hello.

I have been using the poolife® Brite Stix® Sanitizer system for years. I finally ran out and went to get more. The pool store said this was discontinued and to go to the NST Prime system. Just another bucket of bricks. Ok so I did.

Now i see that the skimmer where i put the tablet is turning black where the tab sits along with the throat of the skimmer. It can be wiped off but is difficult to remove and seems to build up. The exhaust port in the pool is turning brownish yellow now.

The white cylindrical bright sticks never did this and the pool has been trouble free for years.

Is it the NST tabs?

Update at the top:

So I had my pool returns replaced after they failed a pressure test and the leak is slower, but still happening. I do have a small bubble in the pump I didn't have the last two years, so now we are trying to isolate the skimmer vs the main drain.

My new questions and this was insinuated by the repair team the pool company that installed and closed the pool may have liability here, but do I have a chance in heck in pursuing them and if so how?

-------------
Original -
My pool was opened in 2020. It has been closed by the installer every year and I am less than thrilled overall with their service as a whole. I apparently have a leaking return. The returns are plumbed together so they couldn't isolate it the leak during the pressure test.

My calculation is that I'm losing around just shy of 100 gallons of water a day. I'm putting 500-750 gallons in per week. One is under a patio (with a massive french drain nearby) and one is in the yard. The lawn doesn't seem to be dieing from the chlorine/chemicals. I had borates in the pool last year too but the level tanked from what I expected when I opened so who knows when it started leaking.

Is there any point in a moisture meter/sensor to try to check by the walls or is it just a pure guess?

Any advice for trouble shooting this before having someone guess which line to try to dig up?

Via a long twisted path I've ended up with a second house which has a lovely outdoor pool and spa. Wow pools can be a pain in the butt, however to cut down a long story we found a knowledgeable pool guy who recommended draining out some of the pool water gradually, and add fresh, to reduce the amount of sediment and especially minerals, as you can see build-up on the tiles and some leaching (?) of the plaster.

I got a Superior Pump 91250
Amazon.com
and connected it to the hose on hand, a 100' rubber of unknown inner diameter (likely 1/2"). Fired right up! So easy! Mmmm, draining the spa, but very slowly. No way close to the specified 1500 gallons per hour at 4 ft pumping height. So questions:
a) Superior do say the hose should be at least 3/4 inch. Maybe this is better?
Amazon.com
b) Even so, is that going to make a DRASTIC difference in output? (I guess I should get a hose like that regardless? And just try it?)
c) If I get another pump, what is a recommended brand? Recommended features? ("Oil-free"? etc)
Danke Schön!

Just started seeing a white line around tile edge. Used a 50/50 h20/muriatic acid mix without much effect. White line did not bubble at all. Chemistry from this morning below.

84*F water
FC - 9
CC - 0
CYA - 60
pH - 7.6
Alk - 80
CH - 320
Salt - 3400

I’m using SWG but supplementing with a few trichlor tabs in floating dispenser to increase CYA (have a lot left after transitioning to SWG)

Any ideas are appreciated

Hi,

I have the Pentair Easytouch control system for my 19,500 gallon pool. It has a two-speed filter pump. I'm trying to figure out what the best filter schedule is for this pool. I currently have it set to go for 10 hours during the daytime daily under the low speed setting. I haven't been using the high speed setting at all. I recently moved to this house with a pool, and this is my first time figuring something like this out. The previous owners had it set to go like 18 hours a day under a low setting, which seemed excessive to me. What do you think?

Thanks so much!

I have three of these returns in my inground pool. They are not directional as far as I can see. Can someone identify them and tell me how to make them directional, or how they come out to change them? As usual, pool builder of no value after sale.

Thanks,

Jim

Does anyone know how to remove the top rail? I expected the cap over the seal to pop off after removing one bolt from the side, but it's stuck.

Hi, we live in the okanagan, BC. Getting allot of ash in our pool due to wildfires. Clean the pool and next day there is black sediment on bottom of pool. Chemistry has been near perfect, had to lower ph that’s about it, pool is crystal clear, just the black sediment keeps coming back. Seem to me like the sand filter does not filter it out. Done back washes, changed sand, still have same problem. We even vacuumed to waste to no avail. Is there something I may be missing to get rid of this fine sediment?

Is there a better filter we should be using to get rid of fines? Would a DE filter be a better option? I don’t think our ash problem is going away anytime soon.

Local pool store says they have had to change a bunch of sand in peoples filters, that’s why we changed it. Really did not help though.

I am on the mend from some recent outpatient surgery--the stitches haven't dissolved off yet, but everything's closed up.

I'm not too keen on soaking in the pool all day until the stitches fall off, but my 4-year-old is itching to play in our pool. Normally he's not allowed to swim unless I'm in the water with him within arms reach at all times, but I'm debating letting him swim and sitting on the edge of the pool instead.

Other than the stairs, it's too deep for him to touch the bottom but we've been working on his swimming without flotation assistance all summer and he's a competent, though weak, swimmer. He can swim from one end of the pool to the other without touching the sides--and lift his head out to breathe while he's doing it-- and tread water for a couple minutes at a time, but his stroke isn't very efficient and his lungs run out of air fast enough that I don't think he could swim more than a few minutes without exhausting himself.

I'm think that's good enough I can hangout nearby but not necessarily in the water, keep both eyes on him at all times, and only go in if he pushes himself past his limits in the water. I was wondering at others' opinions/experiences with that.

In a recent storm most of my pool equipment was crushed by a huge tree. I have a ~20,000 pool with 1 1/2 inch pipes from the pool to the equipment. My pump has 2 inch ports as well as some of my other equipment. Should I use 2 inch pipes above ground or just put in reducers to 1 1/2 inches?

Hi all,

Just joined the forum! Moved from Colorado to Georgia and recently moved into our new house with a pool First pool ownership, so i'm looking to get as much info and hopefully contribute in the forum. Thanks!

Hey y'all,

First year pool owner here. Want to close pool but have been having algae issues. All chemicals are balanced unless I'm missing something. Algae keeps showing up where walls meet floor and random spots on floor. It's very light green and comes off easy, but it's there. I shared my pool log so hopefully you all can see that. The algae shows up even when all chemicals are testing in the ideal range. There is a chance my CYA numbers are off a little due to misreading it, but even if it's off by 10 or so it still falls in recommended range. I just vacuumed and brushed pool and added bleach according to SLAM. It's all in the pool log.

Can't run skimmer as water level is on the low side. Don't want to add water since I'll be draining below skimmer for closing. I do have two bottom drains so letting filter run like that. Just wondering if I'm doing everything correctly. My main concern is next year and not wanting to deal with the algae issue, when all things seem balanced correctly. I'm sure there's something I'm missing so coming to you all for advice!

Howdy! I have Circupool Universal25, but had to choose Edge25 for my profile because Universal40 is the only Universal option. Same issue in PoolMath. Can the Universal25 be added?

Tested my water this morning at 9:00am and FC was 5.2. Had 3 kids and two adults in the pool for 3 hours or so. Tested water again at 5:00 and it was .4. Tested it again to be sure and again it was .4.

I did add some stabilizer, calcium carbonate, and salt this morning as well.

No clue why the big drop as I’ve had more people in the pool for longer without such a huge decrease.

Any thoughts?

I’ll try to attach my numbers from Pool Math

==========================================
Barcelona
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Fiberglass
Volume: 17500 gallons
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 5.2 (8 hours ago)
CC: 0.2 (8 hours ago)
pH: 7.6 (8 hours ago)
TA: 60 (8 hours ago)
CH: 250 (8 hours ago)
CYA: 50 (8 hours ago)
SALT: 2600 (8 hours ago)
TEMPERATURE: 80° (8 hours ago)
CSI: -0.44 (8 hours ago)
==========================================
------------------------------------------
Chemical Addition 08-09-2023 @ 11:08 AM
------------------------------------------
+ 1 Pounds of DryStabilizer

------------------------------------------
Chemical Addition 08-09-2023 @ 11:07 AM
------------------------------------------
+ 40 Pounds of Salt

------------------------------------------
Chemical Addition 08-09-2023 @ 09:35 AM
------------------------------------------
+ 8 Pounds of CalciumChloride

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-09-2023 @ 09:11 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.2
Combined Chlorine: 0.2
pH: 7.6
Total Alkalinity: 60
Calcium Hardness: 250
CYA: 50
Salt: 2600
Temperature: 80°F
CSI: -0.44

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-07-2023 @ 11:17 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.6
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.6
Salt: 2600
CSI: -0.30

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-05-2023 @ 12:53 PM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.5
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.8
CSI: -0.11

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-03-2023 @ 11:34 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.0
Combined Chlorine: 0.2
pH: 7.6
Total Alkalinity: 60
CSI: -0.30

Hello,

There must certainly be a few (many ?) places here where this is discussed in depth.
Could you please show me the way to the most relevant ones ?
Thank you in advance.

Nota : pool in France, pH and chlorine controlled via peristaltic pumps, pH and ORP probes, sulfuric acid (PVC liner) and bleach

I've been reading several posts about liquid chlorine losing potency due to weather temperatures. Here in Central Texas, its been 100 degrees about every day for the past 3 months. I usually buy just one container at Walmart which based on my pool size and CYA, lasts a fairly long time. Unfortunately, Walmart was out of liquid chlorine and I had to revert to buying at Home Depot their 3-pack case which they store outdoors which the date indicates 7/23. The liquid chlorine containers are at 10% strength. Taking a conservative thought process about the decrease in strength due to temps, I'm thinking I should add additional chlorine. Using the Pool Math app, instead of 10% strength, use 6% and I'll be ahead of the curve. Thoughts? Tks

hard time figuring this out. My pool runs at 28-30 psi. Even after cleaning filters. None of my pool jets are working, sometime after cleaning and I start it back up they work for a few minutes with a ton of bubbles and then they stop. My system has a infloor with popup, seem to work ok.

Also, takes awhile for the filter to prime and lead vac canister to fill and prime. Checked for leaks throughout and non detected. I’m thinking it’s a possible bad impeller or diffuser or blocked.

Thoughts?

WILL-DO: Post summary of readings here

Apologies for the verbose post - once I understand more, I will update the WILL-DO portion above with a, b, c below

These are readings from my aunt's pool last week, I didn't get around to posting until today.
I took the water sample around 7 - 7:30AM before dropping the kids off and heading to the office. I did the tests likely between 9:30 - 10AM, so 3 hours after taking the sample.

The sample was stored in a screw on brand new plastic canister all this time and smelled of Chlorine (or is that Chloramines?).

The first test I did was the FC, CC test.

With a 10ml water sample (taken a foot below the top of the surface), I added R-0870 and it turned pink

1. My R-0870 is very clumped up and I tried to crush the clumps using the scoop but that didn't seem to work - adding it to the sample did dissolve 80% of it but 20% of it remained undissolved - is this something to worry about?

I added one drop of R-0871 and it cleared immediately.

2. This means FC = 0.5 (or less)?

Then added 5 drops of R-003 and it turned pink on the 4th and 5th drop. I added one drop of R-0871 and it cleared immediately, again.

3. This means CC = 0.5 (or less)?
4. This means TC = FC + CC = 1.0 (or less)?

I then proceeded to do the TA. On the 5th drop of R-009, the green immediately turned dark pink (compared to the pink in the FC, CC test but not red - is this something to worry about?)

5. This means TA = 50 (or less)?

Last was the CYA test - the red capped CYA bottle did turn cloudy but the black dot was always visible from the top even after I filled up the tube completely.

6. This means the pool has very little CYA?
7. But it's not 0 CYA because it did turn cloudy while a 0 CYA sample would never turn cloudy at all?

Given all of the above, is it correct to say:

a. TC = FC + CC = 0.5 (or less) + 0.5 (or less) = 1.0 (or less)
b. TA = 50 (or less)
c. Non measurable CYA

To refresh your memory, this pool is dark swampy green (like this Featured - Pool green and provides no visibility 7" below surface) and feels like it's starting to smell like the beach (I've been adding 1Gal of LC every day in the evening on my way back from work). The DE Filter is currently bypassed and pump runs 12 hours every day building a 14PSI pressure in the system.

I am planning to visit my aunt again on Sunday and can take readings again.

Hey folks,

I’ve had cloudy water after doing a Zero Alkalinity acid treatment for about a week trying to rebalance the chemicals.

I decided to do a CalHypo shock and strangely the water started tasting salty. No Chloramine smell either which normally is good…but it’s weird.

We don’t have a SWG.

Anyone know what could cause that?