White stains expanding on gunite pool - Please Help

I suspect that the stain id kit will indicate copper.

You can do a sulfamic acid treatment or a zero alkalinity treatment or an acid wash or maybe even sanding the surface would work.

You would need to drain and refill to remove the copper and sulfamic acid.

Draining is risky and it can cause the pool to float, so do your due diligence before deciding what to do.
 
I called the JacksMagic, and they said I wasn’t eligible for their treatment plans because I don’t have a heather bypass :( I checked my plumbing, it only has a check valve but I can’t see any bypass valve. I still ordered the test kit, but I’m worried I won’t be able to treat the stain :(. Ohh btw, they suggested I use their purple stuff, but I read mixed reviews about it. Any advice?
 

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This is my best estimate of what to do, but I am not recommending anything.

I would drain the equipment and protect any metal in the pool like lights or handrails.

Then, add the product.

Brush well and give it several hours.

If it works, drain and refill.

If it is not 100% clean, drop the TA (Total Alkalinity) to zero.

Brush well and give it several hours.

Drain and evaluate the surface.

If you want to acid wash, do it at this time if there are any stains left.

Maybe sand the surface to smooth it out if you feel like it will help.

Refill the pool.

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I am not telling you that I know that this will work or that it is safe to do.

The process has risks and it might not work and it might make things worse.


Any metal in the pool can be damaged by the treatment like lights, light niches, handrails etc.

The pool can potentially float if drained, so get local professional advice before draining.

Do at your own risk.

Do your research before deciding what to do.

Consult a local professional for advice before deciding what to do and how to do it.
Read through the threads below as they cover a lot of information.

Get the stain ID kit so that we can confirm if it is definitely copper.



 
Just got the id kit and purple stuff. Here are my readings from the pool store. Doesn’t seem like I have copper or iron?
 

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I think that the stains are copper.

The dark stains create contrast that makes it look like you are getting white stains.

You might have some scale creating white stains, but we would need to know your chemistry from the very beginning to get a better idea.

See what the stain ID kit shows.
 
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Did you get a chance to clean the filter?

It is usually a good indicator about copper levels as copper will create blue, green or turquoise colors in the DE or cartridge filter.
 
Did you get a chance to clean the filter?

It is usually a good indicator about copper levels as copper will create blue, green or turquoise colors in the DE or cartridge filter.
I have a birthday party tomorrow at my pool, so postponing anything new to me until Sunday :) I will report back.
 
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Nice.

It's a tradition that, on your birthday, people usually become a supporter.

I will share the link with my folks. Thank you, JamesW! You’ve been a huge help to me, I really appreciate it. Really lucky to find TFP community as first time pool owner.
 
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@JamesW Some updates: Nature2 Mineral Cartridge removed. I found the originial cap first owners left in the utility room, so it took me like a min to remove the old cartridge, and put the cap on. I did try to test with the id kit, but I didn’t reduce my Ph7.9 to 7-7.4 because it was throwing my CSI off. Copper test was negative. I called Magic Jacks customer service, he told me to reduce it to lower to 7.3 to purposely get the water aggressive and do the test. I will reorder the kit and retest with aggressive water.

Lastly, Don/MJ told to pour Purple Stuff in new couple of weeks while waiting for the retest.

I will open up the filter asap(raining so much over here) and update on it also
 

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Copper test was negative.
The cartridge contains copper and silver, so the copper test results are probably not accurate.

It’s also possible that most of the copper has fallen out as insoluble precipitates or stains, which means that the water might have very low levels of copper because all of the copper is stuck to the plaster.

The Nature 2 offers a “No stain guarantee”, so maybe you can see what they can do to help.

Good luck with that, though.

DuoClear combines the sanitizing effects and water clarity of Nature2 mineral technology with the convenience of automatic chlorine generation from Clearwater salt technology.

The Nature2 mineral-bed technology uses silver and copper to combat bacteria.

DuoClear 25 Cartridge: 10,000 - 25,000 gallon

DuoClear 35 Cartridge: 25,000 - 35,000 gallon

DuoClear 45 Cartridge: 35,000 - 45,000 gallon

With Nature2 minerals remain well below levels that might cause staining.

In fact, Nature2 offers a "no-stain" guarantee.

 
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The cartridge contains copper and silver, so the copper test results are probably not accurate.

It’s also possible that most of the copper has fallen out as insoluble precipitates or stains, which means that the water might have very low levels of copper because all of the copper is stuck to the plaster.

The Nature 2 offers a “No stain guarantee”, so maybe you can see what they can do to help.

Good luck with that, though.
You’re right, JackW. When I said copper test was negative. I need to perform the test more accurately next time. I need to put it in a sock and directly put it on stain darker areas. Also, with ph lowered. I believe you that it is copper causing this. Update: I put a 32oz of purple stuff but I need 2 more bottle as the startup process, then 6-8oz weekly although doubling up the problem areas as recommended in the instructions.
 
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What do you think about Copper stain remover kit from Culator in addition to Jack's Magic Purple stuff?

I am not seeing a lot of positive reviews about it, but do you think it is worth a shot? I was thinking to get on a call with them, show them the pics, and see what they think
 
That's citric acid, which might work but not as well as sulfamic acid, which is what Jack's #2 copper and scale stuff is.

The reference threads that I posted earlier have a lot of information about the sulfamic acid treatment followed by a drain and refill if it is safe to do so.

Do you know your ground water level?


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That's citric acid, which might work but not as well as sulfamic acid, which is what Jack's #2 copper and scale stuff is.

The reference threads that I posted earlier have a lot of information about the sulfamic acid treatment followed by a drain and refill if it is safe to do so.

Do you know your ground water level?


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I was told by JMagic that I can’t use solution #2 because I don’t have a heater bypass. That is why they recommended a passive solution using just the purple stuff. I am a bit skeptical about drain and fill because I don’t want to mess anything up honestly, plus I don’t have a budget for it this first year of pool ownership (I’ve spent so much already). I am on well water, and I use it to fill it when water level goes below half skimmer line. It is a hard water, has iron also. I fill up about an inch or so every other week. Also, my well is 6gpm, has very low pressure, and it takes about 2-3 hrs most before I run out of water. So, if I had to ever do drain and fill, then I need to bring truck to fill it.
 

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