What are the rest of your test results? What does your water look like?How do I lower combined chlorine? Seems norm is 0, mine shows at 6ppm
That's what I meant to say. Thanks for catching it.It is worth 0.2 ppm not 0.5 ppm in a 25 ml sample
TEST | RESULTS |
---|---|
Free Chlorine | 3 ppm |
Combined Chlorine | 6 ppm |
pH | 7.4 |
Total Alkalinity | 270 ppm |
Calcium Hardness | 300 ppm |
Cyanuric Acid | < 25 ppm (basically I filled whole tube and dot never disappeared) |
What are the rest of your test results? What does your water look like?
SLAM to resolve the CCs, unless there is another explanation (such as testing error).
I noticed that and think it could be testing error. Take note of the points I gave in earlier post. Once the pool sample turns from pink to clear (i.e. colorless - no pink) then add the 5 drops of R-0003 to test CC. If pink then add the R-0871 again starting from 0. Counting drops again until it goes clear (colorless - no pink) again. Multiple that by 0.5 (or divide by 2) I think you are using 10ml sample - that becomes your CC level. Do not add that value to your FC level.How do I lower combined chlorine? Seems norm is 0, mine shows at 6ppm
That's exactly right. This is a tricky time for new pool owners, because they can't do anything to mess up their warranty with the PB, but they also can't sit by and watch their pool's chemistry get out of whack. Best course of action is to discuss the situation with the PB before you do anything. Email is best, or a follow up email that summarizes any verbal discussion. In essence, present your concerns and either ask him to take care of them, or ask for permission to do so yourself. If that occurs via email, then you have a paper trail that the PB gave you permission to address the pool's chemistry. Without that, he could later claim you messed up the pool and deny you any warranty claims.Mine is a new pool.. Water been in for about 2 weeks. Pool company started pumps and treated initially. Supposed to be treating for next 3 or 4 weeks, so I dont want to be messing with putting chemicals in.
I noticed that and think it could be testing error. Take note of the points I gave in earlier post. Once the pool sample turns from pink to clear (i.e. colorless - no pink) then add the 5 drops of R-0003 to test CC. If pink then add the R-0871 again starting from 0. Counting drops again until it goes clear (colorless - no pink) again. Multiple that by 0.5 (or divide by 2) I think you are using 10ml sample - that becomes your CC level. Do not add that value to your FC level.
Next step is to ask the PB to add some CYA. Or ask him if it's OK if you do. Report back with what he says and we'll go from there.
I still say it's better to ask the PB. We don't know for sure the CYA is currently zero, as you're still learning how to test everything, and we also don't know for sure the PB will or won't notice. Best not to compromise your warranty in any way, and best to know first if the PB already added CYA.Just add stabilizer to raise CYA to 30. I guarantee you the PB will never notice or ask how it got there.
I still say it's better to ask the PB. We don't know for sure the CYA is currently zero, as you're still learning how to test everything, and we also don't know for sure the PB will or won't notice. Best not to compromise your warranty in any way, and best to know first if the PB already added CYA.
Use a 10 mL water sample. Then each drop is worth 0.5 ppm FC. Put another way, divide the number of drops by two to get your FC. If you use 20 drops, your FC is 10.
The option is there to use a 25 mL water sample. If you do that, then each drop is worth 0.2 ppm FC. However, that level of precision really isn't necessary, so it just uses more reagents than necessary. Save yourself a little money and just use 10 mL sample and divide drops by two.
No need to be afraid of math. Just use the below equation when converting from standard molarity to a parts per million formulation.My non-math brain like .5easier to count
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I don't know if you've learned about this yet, but the single best thing you can do for your testing learning curve, and beyond, is to buy a Taylor SpeedStir. While it might seem like an unnecessary expense, it's not. Not only does it make testing sooooo much easier, you'll also get better more accurate results. Trust me, you'll be very glad to have one after the first time you use it. Order it today...
TEST | 4 DAYS AGO | 24 HRS AGO | TODAY 1 HR AGO |
Free Chlorine | 3.0 | 1.5 | 0.5 |
Combined Chlorine | 6.0 (LIKELY TEST ERROR) | 1.0 | 0.5 |
pH | 7.4 | 8.0 | 8.2 |
Total Alkalinity | 270 | 270 | 275 |
Calcium Hardness | 300 | 60 | 300 |
Cyunaric Acid | LIKELY NEAR 0 | LIKELY NEAR 0 | LIKELY NEAR 0 |
CSI | 0.22 | 0.13 | 1.03 |
Your highest priority is keeping your FC around 3 ppm. Test the FC daily and add liquid chlorine as needed.
Your next priority is keep your pH in the 7's. Around the mid point of 7.6. Don't go as low as 7.3. With a TA of 270 you may be adding acid daily.
Get your CYA up around 30. It can take a few days for the stabilizer to dissolve and show in the test.
Your CH is fine and your TA will come down as you add acid to lower the pH. Your CSI does not matter right now.
Focus on daily adjustments of FC and pH.
I see mention of a chlorinator. I would not use Trichlor tablets. You can't control your dosing and get your chemistry to targets with it. Use liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and dry stabilizer.