Went through pool school - waste

Mine is a new pool.. Water been in for about 2 weeks. Pool company started pumps and treated initially. Supposed to be treating for next 3 or 4 weeks, so I dont want to be messing with putting chemicals in.
My readings were taking by me yesterday evening. Using Taylor k-2006c kit

My test numbers are:
TESTRESULTS
Free Chlorine3 ppm
Combined Chlorine6 ppm
pH7.4
Total Alkalinity270 ppm
Calcium Hardness300 ppm
Cyanuric Acid< 25 ppm (basically I filled whole tube and dot never disappeared)



What are the rest of your test results? What does your water look like?

SLAM to resolve the CCs, unless there is another explanation (such as testing error).
 
How do I lower combined chlorine? Seems norm is 0, mine shows at 6ppm
I noticed that and think it could be testing error. Take note of the points I gave in earlier post. Once the pool sample turns from pink to clear (i.e. colorless - no pink) then add the 5 drops of R-0003 to test CC. If pink then add the R-0871 again starting from 0. Counting drops again until it goes clear (colorless - no pink) again. Multiple that by 0.5 (or divide by 2) I think you are using 10ml sample - that becomes your CC level. Do not add that value to your FC level.
 
Mine is a new pool.. Water been in for about 2 weeks. Pool company started pumps and treated initially. Supposed to be treating for next 3 or 4 weeks, so I dont want to be messing with putting chemicals in.
That's exactly right. This is a tricky time for new pool owners, because they can't do anything to mess up their warranty with the PB, but they also can't sit by and watch their pool's chemistry get out of whack. Best course of action is to discuss the situation with the PB before you do anything. Email is best, or a follow up email that summarizes any verbal discussion. In essence, present your concerns and either ask him to take care of them, or ask for permission to do so yourself. If that occurs via email, then you have a paper trail that the PB gave you permission to address the pool's chemistry. Without that, he could later claim you messed up the pool and deny you any warranty claims.

In the meantime, there is no harm in adding some liquid chlorine to your pool to keep your FC up. Your CYA is probably zero unless the PB added some, that is something to ask him about. Without CYA, your pool will consume chlorine quickly, though now that it's winter it won't be as bad as other times of the year. For now, try to keep FC around 3, and try not to let it slip below that level. Test every day. Add liquid chlorine to your pool as needed to maintain the FC.

Report here if you notice the water getting cloudy, or see any green forming anywhere in your pool.

Next step is to ask the PB to add some CYA. Or ask him if it's OK if you do. Report back with what he says and we'll go from there.
 
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I noticed that and think it could be testing error. Take note of the points I gave in earlier post. Once the pool sample turns from pink to clear (i.e. colorless - no pink) then add the 5 drops of R-0003 to test CC. If pink then add the R-0871 again starting from 0. Counting drops again until it goes clear (colorless - no pink) again. Multiple that by 0.5 (or divide by 2) I think you are using 10ml sample - that becomes your CC level. Do not add that value to your FC level.

I was going to say that sounds like testing error as well.
 
Next step is to ask the PB to add some CYA. Or ask him if it's OK if you do. Report back with what he says and we'll go from there.

Just add stabilizer to raise CYA to 30. I guarantee you the PB will never notice or ask how it got there.
 

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I don't know if you've learned about this yet, but the single best thing you can do for your testing learning curve, and beyond, is to buy a Taylor SpeedStir. While it might seem like an unnecessary expense, it's not. Not only does it make testing sooooo much easier, you'll also get better more accurate results. Trust me, you'll be very glad to have one after the first time you use it. Order it today...

 
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Just add stabilizer to raise CYA to 30. I guarantee you the PB will never notice or ask how it got there.
I still say it's better to ask the PB. We don't know for sure the CYA is currently zero, as you're still learning how to test everything, and we also don't know for sure the PB will or won't notice. Best not to compromise your warranty in any way, and best to know first if the PB already added CYA.
 
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I still say it's better to ask the PB. We don't know for sure the CYA is currently zero, as you're still learning how to test everything, and we also don't know for sure the PB will or won't notice. Best not to compromise your warranty in any way, and best to know first if the PB already added CYA.

Add 10 ppm of stablizer at a time and you will see when the CYA starts getting above 20.
 
Use a 10 mL water sample. Then each drop is worth 0.5 ppm FC. Put another way, divide the number of drops by two to get your FC. If you use 20 drops, your FC is 10.

The option is there to use a 25 mL water sample. If you do that, then each drop is worth 0.2 ppm FC. However, that level of precision really isn't necessary, so it just uses more reagents than necessary. Save yourself a little money and just use 10 mL sample and divide drops by two.

My non-math brain like .5 :) easier to count :)
 
My non-math brain like .5 :) easier to count :)
No need to be afraid of math. Just use the below equation when converting from standard molarity to a parts per million formulation.

4ff174e46bb3f7121e00000b


;)
 
That Looks pretty good. I think I will pull the trigger on this gadget.
Thanks for the advice. I have already contacted PB so they can address the situation asap. WE shall see what results.


I don't know if you've learned about this yet, but the single best thing you can do for your testing learning curve, and beyond, is to buy a Taylor SpeedStir. While it might seem like an unnecessary expense, it's not. Not only does it make testing sooooo much easier, you'll also get better more accurate results. Trust me, you'll be very glad to have one after the first time you use it. Order it today...

 
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So PB started the pool up about 3 weeks ago now. They started pumps, put in some muriatic acid and liquid chlorine. Left. pumps were on 100% 24x7 for 2 weeks straight.
Then pool school man came, placed pumps on some default (I cant see since the wifi antenna was missing and they could not set me up to control pumps with phone, so only thing I can do is keep pool on auto - default schedule, or put in service, in which case I have individual control of each pump, but only from control box for now).

Anyway, pool man added some trichlor tablets (put in 4 of them, set to setting 3). That was all he did. When he came, we tested water, ph was 7.4.
That was about 1.5 weeks ago. Since then, pool company was supposed to contact me and set up schedule to visit for 30 days. Nothing happened never heard from them.
Now, about 2 weeks after last test by pool school man, I have been trying to contact the PB, the pool company but Thanksgiving coming up and I CAN BET YOU ANY MONEY I WONT HEAR FROM THEM TIL MONDAY. I have a few choice word to call them.

So instead of doing nothing, I started testing and adding. Hope some of you fine folks will help me keep this train on train tracks, no thanks to the poor service PB and pool company.

My readings have been over last 5 days:
My pool is Chlorine inground, pebble finish. Completed and filled about 3 weeks ago. Followed strict brushing 2 times a day for 2 weeks, then switching to 1 a day brushing so far.
Pool volume is 34,000 gallons (measured by meter when filling).
TEST4 DAYS AGO24 HRS AGOTODAY 1 HR AGO
Free Chlorine3.01.50.5
Combined Chlorine6.0 (LIKELY TEST ERROR)1.00.5
pH7.48.08.2
Total Alkalinity270270275
Calcium Hardness30060300
Cyunaric AcidLIKELY NEAR 0LIKELY NEAR 0LIKELY NEAR 0
CSI0.220.131.03

Yesterday after test, CYA very low. Used pool math, to try increase CYA by about 8ppm (trying to increase slowly). Added 2lbs of powder stabilizer. After a day, still do not see level change (still appears nearly zero).

Today, after test, pH appeared greatly increased (rained today too for a bit). Used pool math to try lower by 0.9pH. Added 1 gallon of 31.45% Muriatic acid. After couple hours running pump, tested pH and did not see great decrease, maybe 0.2pH if I am optimistic.
I also cranked up the chlorinator to level 6 overnight. Hoping this will help increase FC. Will reduce back to #3 tomorrow sometime.

Hope someone can take time to read this book and comment on what I am doing. Obviously, I am doing more than the PB and pool company are. Getting very irritated by them now.
Thanks for any advice.
 
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Your highest priority is keeping your FC around 3 ppm. Test the FC daily and add liquid chlorine as needed.

Your next priority is keep your pH in the 7's. Around the mid point of 7.6. Don't go as low as 7.3. With a TA of 270 you may be adding acid daily.

Get your CYA up around 30. It can take a few days for the stabilizer to dissolve and show in the test.

Your CH is fine and your TA will come down as you add acid to lower the pH. Your CSI does not matter right now.

Focus on daily adjustments of FC and pH.

I see mention of a chlorinator. I would not use Trichlor tablets. You can't control your dosing and get your chemistry to targets with it. Use liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and dry stabilizer.
 
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Understand.. The pool school guy told me he has to put them in per his process. So there were 4 tabs inserted, still there I checked, not fully dissolved, about half way to be fully done. I increased the dosing to 6 (max), overnight, to help put more chlorine into the system (running main pump in service mode at 100%). Hope tomorrow I can test again and see more FC, lower pH, and more CYA. Will update what I find tomorrow pm.
Not adding anything til after test tomorrow at least. Thanks.




Your highest priority is keeping your FC around 3 ppm. Test the FC daily and add liquid chlorine as needed.
Your next priority is keep your pH in the 7's. Around the mid point of 7.6. Don't go as low as 7.3. With a TA of 270 you may be adding acid daily.
Get your CYA up around 30. It can take a few days for the stabilizer to dissolve and show in the test.
Your CH is fine and your TA will come down as you add acid to lower the pH. Your CSI does not matter right now.
Focus on daily adjustments of FC and pH.
I see mention of a chlorinator. I would not use Trichlor tablets. You can't control your dosing and get your chemistry to targets with it. Use liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and dry stabilizer.
 

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