Went through pool school - waste

[ajw22]

At some point, maybe you can advise how to lower TA.

How many times have you been told your TA is fine?

You seem to be looking for things to do with your new toy.

Don't tinker with your water chemistry unnecessarily trying to make things "better". You are in a fine zone for your startup. Less is more.

FC and pH are your priority. And higher pH is better. Less acid, not more. Don't take your pH below 7.6. pH of 7.8 is even better.

 

[JamesW]

Are you tracking CSI and water temperature?

 

[ajw22]

Are you tracking CSI and water temperature?

Note he is only 9 days into his plaster startup.

 

[JamesW]

Note he is only 9 days into his plaster startup.

That's the most critical time to manage the CSI. Brush often and keep the CSI about neutral.

 

[ajw22]

That's the most critical time to manage the CSI. Brush often and keep the CSI about neutral.

@onBalance says keep the CSI more towards +0.5 CSI.

Following startup guide chemistry tends to bias CSI towards positive. However low water temp this time of year can drive CSI down no matter what water chemistry is maintained. That is why I am suggesting keeping pH more towards 7.8.

The CSI is Reliable for Plaster-based Pools

Using the Calcium Saturation Index (also known as the LSI in the pool industry) as a guide for maintaining proper pool water balance and to protect pool plaster, including quartz and pebble finishes, has become a mainstay in our industry for good reason. Several experiments have been conducted...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Dirk]

If you're using the Pool Math app (you should be), you can start a second "pool" and name it "Fill Water" or "City Water" or something like that. Test your fill water and record it in this new pool. You might do that a few times a year, as some municipalities alter their water sources throughout the year based on availability, and the sources could have different chemical makeups. Over time this will give you a good sense of what's coming into your pool, so you can adjust your chemical strategy accordingly. Pool Math is a great way to keep track of it all.

It also has excellent tools for monitoring CSI. There's a CSI calculator you can use. You can play around with pH and TA and CH and temp numbers (without affecting how you logged those) to see how they affect CSI, and so determine which of those is best adjusted to move the CSI where you want it.

 

[ciaka]

I did have my fill water tested before filling the pool.

Fill water test prior to pool fill:
FC: 0.28 ppm
CC: Not tested
TC: 2.16 ppm
pH: 7.2
TA: 223 ppm
CH: 209 ppm
CYA: 5 ppm
Iron: 0.1 ppm
Copper: 0.2 ppm
Phosphates: 0 ppm
TDS: 200 ppm

This test was done by pool store (leslies).

Great news on your progress!!!
I went back and looked at thread and could not find if you ever tested your fill water. Suggest you test that now so you have that as a reference for the future. It should not have any Chlorine (or less than 1 if it does), no CYA as tap water does not have it. so focus on Calcium and Alkalinity test.
Keep up the good work.

 

[ajw22]

Test your fill water with your test kit - only pH, TA and CH.

With TA of 200+ on your fill water it will be tough keeping your TA low.

 

[ciaka]

Yes, I purchased the app. What a great tool. Before, I was going to create a page to have paper log. So 80s. Then remembered about the app from this pool. Just awesome.
I use the feature that shows effects of adding chemical, before I dose. My greatest helper.
Weather is back sunny again here in Dripping Springs TX, so I will be going out to test again.
Funny, we built the pool, and have yet to jump into it. Wonder how long and how much $ it will cost if we try to heat the pool for winter swim one day, just to try it out. Pool is 34k gal.

If you're using the Pool Math app...... Pool Math is a great way to keep track of it all....

 

[ciaka]

Should I keep pH at about 7.6 or 8 as you suggested then? Anything else I can do to bring TA down? Its city water but comes from spring. Is treated but I'm sure the calcium in it does not get filtered out whole.

Test your fill water with your test kit - only pH, TA and CH.

With TA of 200+ on your fill water it will be tough keeping your TA low.

 

[ajw22]

Wonder how long and how much $ it will cost if we try to heat the pool for winter swim one day, just to try it out.

Do not run your heater for the first 30 days or run wheeled cleaners in your pool.

Why no heater use for first 30 days? With new plaster there is a lot of plaster dust in the water and the pH is usually very high. When you heat water the potential for scale formation in the heater increases significantly. The actual timeframe for waiting to use the heater has no real merit. As long as the plaster dust is under control and the pH is in range there is no reason not to use it. Your risk of rushing to use the heater is scale clogging up the heater coil.

 

[ajw22]

Should I keep pH at about 7.6 or 8 as you suggested then? Anything else I can do to bring TA down? Its city water but comes from spring. Is treated but I'm sure the calcium in it does not get filtered out whole.

Please explain why you think you need to bring your TA down?

Your TA is fine.

TA - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You can only keep pH in a range. The range of 7.6 to 8 is a good target for you right now.

 

[Dirk]

Allen and I are both saying the same thing about your TA. Don't worry about it for now. Post your CH along with pH, TA and water temp and we'll take a look at your CSI.

 

[ciaka]

I am tracking. Over last few tests its been:

Nov 24:
Temp: 69F
CSI: 1.03

Nov 25:
Temp: 69F
CSI: 0.69

Nov 25:
Temp: 67F
CSI: 0.7

Nov 26:
Temp: 68F
CSI: 0.27

Nov 27:
Temp: 68F
CSI: 0.37

Nov 28 morn:
Temp: 68F
CSI: 0.37

Nov 28 night:
Temp: 68F
CSI: 0.07
There was dosing between hence changes too.
I will be targeting pH for about 7.6 as recommended by you fine folks. This often testing is getting me used to process and makes me more efficient too

Are you tracking CSI and water temperature?

 

[ciaka]

My assumptions were that TA under 120 is the target.
Thats why I thought I need it to come down. If you say it's fine, I trust you my friend, will focus on FC and pH strictly for now.
Will target pH 7.6 and FC 3.0 .
Can't express how much I appreciate your help. Thank you sir.

Please explain why you think you need to bring your TA down?

Your TA is fine.

TA - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You can only keep pH in a range. The range of 7.6 to 8 is a good target for you right now.

 

[JamesW]

I will defer to OnBalance as they are the best expert on this.

Also, something that I should have mentioned in my write-up is that the CSI is not applicable to new plaster finishes under 30 days old. It is actually necessary, in order to achieve a smooth and dense surface, to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days. This is because the plaster (cement paste) surface contains about 20% calcium hydroxide, which is somewhat soluble in balanced and slightly positive CSI water and can be dissolved away. The plaster surface needs to be "carbonated" before the CSI should be lowered to the acceptable and balanced range. And that generally is achieved during the first month under balanced water.

In any case, the CSI is critical to achieving a good startup result. I would be careful not to exceed +0.5 at any point.

I would try to stay in the 0.0 to +0.5 range to be safe.

Going over +0.5 can lead to scaling, especially if the hydroxide from the new plaster causes the pH to go excessively high.

 

[onBalance]

Your tap water and current pool water (TA and CH and CSI) balance was/is very good for brand new plaster, and keeping the CSI between +0.2 to +0.6 is also very good for the first 3 to 4 weeks for new plaster finishes. Maintaining the pH between 7.6 and 8.0 also works well. As you have been told, adding acid will be constantly needed to keep the pH in that range and from going above 8.0, and that process of adding acid usually and slowly lowers the TA (below 200 ppm) which is advisable after the 3 week period is over. That in turn, will help to lower and maintain a more balanced and ideal neutral CSI for plaster pools after they are 3 weeks old. Looking good!

 

[HermanTX]

I am tracking. Over last few tests its been:

One item that may help the experts is if you link your test results to your user name. You can do that by following these steps on the Pool Math app
Go to Gear Icon on top right of app
Scroll all the way down to section called Sharing
Click the button to turn on "Link from TroubleFreePool.com user profile".
Thanks.
You are doing great with all the tests.

 

[ciaka]

Understand. I've been told and do not plan to use heater for at least 30 days. I was talking about after its safe to use. Thanks for keeping me out of rhe weeds though. Really appreciate it.

Do not run your heater for the first 30 days or run wheeled cleaners in your pool.
......

 

[ajw22]

Understand. I've been told and do not plan to use heater for at least 30 days. I was talking about after its safe to use. Thanks for keeping me out of rhe weeds though. Really appreciate it.

Time for you to edit your signature with a proper description of your pool and equipment.