SWCG Cold Water Shut Off

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The easiest way to find HDX Chlorinating Liquid at Home Depot is to check their web site. It will list the current inventory for all their stores in your area, and even tell you the aisle/row to find it. In my area, they’ll even deliver to your home for a $10 fee.
 
I thought I would respond back to the original question.. "Do I add salt?" I am in the central valley too.. and no doubt you just got hammered by the recent rains. During that time your salinity is going to get diluted and the SWG is probably to cold to run any way. So use liquid chlorine until the weather starts to warm up. I'm not sure where you are in the CV but I start tweaking my salt levels March-ish time frame when the rains slow down to a point where I am not having to drain the pool. Same with CYA, there is no point dumping in lots of chems if they are just going to get washed out from rain overflow and its too cold to swim anyway. Until then I just chlorinate with LC, and then in early March I see what the weather is doing and start to pull the other chems in line, CYA, Salinity, etc.. so that by the time the pool warms up for the SWG to kick in all the chem levels are about ready. Hope that makes sense.
 
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JSchan said:
Am I really about to go spend almost $100 on calcium chloride? 😬
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Tough call. The rain has reduced that too. But evaporation will raise the CH this summer.

To protect the plaster I would suggest adding at least 50-75 ppm of calcium. If you have Amazon Prime, look there. May be cheaper than pool stores. Puri-Tech is a brand to look for.
 
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JSchan said:
Am I really about to go spend almost $100 on calcium chloride? 😬
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You are low, as @mknauss suggests it wouldn't hurt to bring it up a bit.. but I wouldn't worry too much about hitting your target values for a few months until the rains stop.. then you aren't fighting the seasonal rain dilution dance. I also buy the PuriTech through Amazon.. that has been the best price I can find.
 
mguzzy said:
I thought I would respond back to the original question.. "Do I add salt?" I am in the central valley too.. and no doubt you just got hammered by the recent rains. During that time your salinity is going to get diluted and the SWG is probably to cold to run any way. So use liquid chlorine until the weather starts to warm up. I'm not sure where you are in the CV but I start tweaking my salt levels March-ish time frame when the rains slow down to a point where I am not having to drain the pool. Same with CYA, there is no point dumping in lots of chems if they are just going to get washed out from rain overflow and its too cold to swim anyway. Until then I just chlorinate with LC, and then in early March I see what the weather is doing and start to pull the other chems in line, CYA, Salinity, etc.. so that by the time the pool warms up for the SWG to kick in all the chem levels are about ready. Hope that makes sense.
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Thanks for the information. I live in Oakdale, specifically. Yes, I plan to hang on to the rest of my salt until the red light goes away indicating “cold water.”
 
mknauss said:
Tough call. The rain has reduced that too. But evaporation will raise the CH this summer.

To protect the plaster I would suggest adding at least 50-75 ppm of calcium. If you have Amazon Prime, look there. May be cheaper than pool stores. Puri-Tech is a brand to look for.
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I do have Amazon prime and will check that out. What other products would you recommend specifically to get my levels in range and which would you consider the most critical? I do occasionally sit in my pool this time of year for health/skin benefits of being in cold water for extended periods of time.
 
mknauss said:
Chlorine. Maintain your FC based on the FC/CYA Levels
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Sorry, I should have been more specific. What brands? Just ordered 50 pounds of of the calcium hardness increaser from Amazon for a fraction of the price I was about to pay at Home Depot so thank you! Also, how crucial is CYA in the winter months if the sun isn’t sucking up all the chlorine? I also plan to get a bubble cover for it very soon
 
Your CYA of 40 ppm is fine for now. Starting about March 1 start to push that up to 70 ppm. Puri-tech has CYA too.
Solar cover will work starting in April / May, depending on where in the 'Central Valley' you are. With no heater, it will still take quite some time to warm the water much.
 
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mknauss said:
Your CYA of 40 ppm is fine for now. Starting about March 1 start to push that up to 70 ppm. Puri-tech has CYA too.
Solar cover will work starting in April / May, depending on where in the 'Central Valley' you are. With no heater, it will still take quite some time to warm the water much.
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Would you suggest more muriatic acid to lower the TA as well? And if so, why are pH and TA separate tests?
 
No need to focus on TA. With your lower CH, the TA is protecting your plaster. When you pH reaches 8, lower it to 7.6. Test TA every time your pH reaches 8. You need the TA value in Poolmath to show how much acid to use.
 
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