JSchan

Active member
Jan 19, 2021
32
Oakdale, CA
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Good evening, all. Brand new owner of a 20,000 gallon salt water pool, here! Very excited and also a bit frustrated as I added 360 pounds of the recommended approximate 550 pounds of salt this afternoon just to try out my IC40 Pentair Intellichlor SWCG to find out that it won’t work for my 52 degree pool water. I’m just wanting to know where to go from here. Do I finish adding the rest of the salt or save it until the pool heats up? Do I just find a test kit on Amazon and manage my MA and chlorine levels on my own? Best place to purchase chlorine in bulk? I’ve seen a lot of recommendations for bleach over chlorine, is this the way to go? With some very mild winters in CA, is getting a dummy SWCG necessary for winterization? I need all the advice, tips and tricks you have to offer. Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome to the forum!
All SWCG shut off at low water temperatures. The Pentair IC series typically shuts off around 52F.
Sounds like you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols. Add the Taylor K1766 Salt Test Kit and a Speedstir to your order. You will need all of that to properly manage your pool water chemistry.
In the mean time, I would suggest not adding any more salt until your pool water temperature remains above 55F or so. Add liquid chlorine (I get mine at Home Depot) to maintain your FC based on the FC/CYA Levels
There is no need to get a dummy cell. You can leave your unit in place all year. How are you controlling your system? Do you have an automation system?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
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Welcome to the forum!
All SWCG shut off at low water temperatures. The Pentair IC series typically shuts off around 52F.
Sounds like you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols. Add the Taylor K1766 Salt Test Kit and a Speedstir to your order. You will need all of that to properly manage your pool water chemistry.
In the mean time, I would suggest not adding any more salt until your pool water temperature remains above 55F or so. Add liquid chlorine (I get mine at Home Depot) to maintain your FC based on the FC/CYA Levels
There is no need to get a dummy cell. You can leave your unit in place all year. How are you controlling your system? Do you have an automation system?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Welcome to the forum!
All SWCG shut off at low water temperatures. The Pentair IC series typically shuts off around 52F.
Sounds like you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols. Add the Taylor K1766 Salt Test Kit and a Speedstir to your order. You will need all of that to properly manage your pool water chemistry.
In the mean time, I would suggest not adding any more salt until your pool water temperature remains above 55F or so. Add liquid chlorine (I get mine at Home Depot) to maintain your FC based on the FC/CYA Levels
There is no need to get a dummy cell. You can leave your unit in place all year. How are you controlling your system? Do you have an automation system?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Thanks for the help! I do have an automated system that controls RPM. How much chlorine should be added to a 20K gallon pool initially? I put 2 gallons in about a month ago based on some results I got from Leslies. Test kit will be here today.
 
Appears you did not use or have a FAS DPD chlorine test kit. You need one.

Add acidto set pH in the 7’s. Chlorine based on theFC/CYA Levels
I purchased the Taylor K2005 test kit and it comes with the FAS DPD test. Instructions were a bit more confusing and I don’t understand the difference so I opted for the less confusing test 😂
 
I guess it just has the instructions for it then. I’ve been very on the fence about taking this on myself as opposed to hiring someone so I was doing my best to not break the bank. Can I get by with what I have?image.jpg
 

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Here is the issue. The test you have will get you sort of to a FC of 10 ppm. Color match is at best, a sort of guess. It will work if you NEVER get algae. And you aggressively manage your CYA level.

If you wish, try it. If things turn south, you need the better test.
 
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OK -- it is hard to tell. What do you think the FC is? That is why I use a FAS-DPD test kit for FC.
 
Here is the issue. The test you have will get you sort of to a FC of 10 ppm. Color match is at best, a sort of guess. It will work if you NEVER get algae. And you aggressively manage your CYA level.

If you wish, try it. If things turn south, you need the better test.
0D47C391-591A-449D-9E2A-5C1F5BACEF0A.jpeg40oz of MA and I’m still getting an 8 pH. Added another 40 and will retest tomorrow.
 
@mknauss You said you get your chlorine at Home Depot. We were there the other day looking at it and the only boxes of liquid chlorine they had say SHOCK on the box. Is that just regular chlorine?
 
@mknauss You said you get your chlorine at Home Depot. We were there the other day looking at it and the only boxes of liquid chlorine they had say SHOCK on the box. Is that just regular chlorine?
Yes. It is 10% sodium hypochlorite. Look at the date code. Last stuff I got was 20298. Not real fresh but not bad as it has been cool since November when it was made.
 
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