Delete the reminders to test chlorine all the time. And those trips to the store searching for liquid chlorineConversion is easy-peasy!
1) Buy device
2) Buy Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit and test your current water for salt already in the pool.
3) Use PoolMath to determine how much salt to buy to take it from currently salt level up to device requirement salt level. Add to pool and brush.
4) Install device .... use liquid chlorine all the while you work on this project. Have Free Chlorine level at desired level using liquid chlorine.
5) Turn device on and let device maintain the FC level you have dialed in using the liquid chlorine. Add increased CYA requirement.
6) Test daily to tweak system (turn up or down to get more or less FC) When dialed in....<go to step 7)
7) Sit back and have a nice cold adult beverage. Put your feet up. Test routinely. All is well.
Maddie
I wanted to buy this for the same reason you mentioned. . Unfortunately, the clearance from the bottom of my heater outlet pipe run to the concrete pad is 3.5 inches and chatting with the rep I discovered that the clearance needs to be larger.This must be the easiest SWG to install ever-- CircuPool CORE-35 Salt Chlorine Generator | Discount Salt Pool
Check out : discountsaltpool.com
I say the 55This must be the easiest SWG to install ever-- CircuPool CORE-35 Salt Chlorine Generator | Discount Salt Pool
Check out : discountsaltpool.com
So buy the vertical kit, or make your own for cheaper with some 90s and go up with the SWG then back down and out. Or you can use the elbows to raise the outlet pipe and have plenty of clearance.wanted to buy this for the same reason you mentioned. . Unfortunately, the clearance from the bottom of my heater outlet pipe run to the concrete pad is 3.5 inches and chatting with the rep I discovered that the clearance needs to be larger
None of them are hard. I put a 120v plug on my edge and other then that the rest is simple snap together. Cutting the PVC is the hardest part and that’s not bad eitherI wanted to buy this for the same reason you mentioned. . Unfortunately, the clearance from the bottom of my heater outlet pipe run to the concrete pad is 3.5 inches and chatting with the rep I discovered that the clearance needs to be larger.
+1. Plenty of YouTube videos out there to walk you through it and give you a great idea of exactly what it entails before you even start. That info is super helpful when you are buying all the parts.Cutting the PVC is the hardest part and that’s not bad either
And unless your dealing with special unions if it doesn't work cut it out and start over PVC is cheapI'll add that instead of measure twice, cut once, that you should measure at LEAST 10 times and cut once. So many pools have tight clearances between fittings and devices, so the last thing you want to do is to make a mistake when you cut out the section where your SWG will go as you may then end up with a much larger plumbing job. Still not overwhelming by any stretch if you have basic handyman skills.
I can neither confirm nor deny that I am the poster child for "cut it out and start over!"And unless your dealing with special unions if it doesn't work cut it out and start over PVC is cheap
I am the poster child for getting 1/2 way done and realizing I need an 90..Then off to HD to get it..Then 3 hours later realize I also need a coupler..Repeat..I can neither confirm nor deny that I am the poster child for "cut it out and start over!"
Ditto! In fact, I keep so many PVC fittings from 1/2" through 2" that during the freeze, neighbors were coming to my house looking for parts that were out of stock everywhere! I'll have to shoot a photo of my "garage hardware store."I am the poster child for getting 1/2 way done and realizing I need an 90..Then off to HD to get it..Then 3 hours later realize I also need a coupler..Repeat..
I got tired of doing that so now have a 5 gallon bucket of 2" PVC parts in my basement
For me, making square cut on PVC is the hardest part. This will take some serious planning on my part.None of them are hard. I put a 120v plug on my edge and other then that the rest is simple snap together. Cutting the PVC is the hardest part and that’s not bad either
You can try putting a metal hose clamp against your cut line. As long as you're careful and take you time, that should keep your cut fairly straight. Others may have other methods as well.For me, making square cut on PVC is the hardest part. This will take some serious planning on my part.
I like the fittings with deep pockets so I can get lots of contact area so if my cut if a little crocked won’t matterYou can try putting a metal hose clamp against your cut line. As long as you're careful and take you time, that should keep your cut fairly straight. Others may have other methods as well.