Chlorine to Saltwater Conversion

[Rxinverstor]

Hi Everyone

After 3 years of caring for my pool I'm thinking I'd be better off with a salt water system. I'm curious if anyone out there has made this conversion, which system did you select and why and finally what lessons or considerations would you pass on having gone through the change.

Thanks!

 

[PoolStored]

Not much change, super easy.

Do you have any automation? That may influence the choice.

Without automation, the Circupool RJ series is a great option. I have one and recommend here frequently. Primarily because the increments controlling output are 5%...makes adjustments less frequent.
Get one that is at least 2x your pool size. The RJ 30 would be fine, RJ 45 can be had for $10 more at this link. No affiliation.

CircuPool RJ-30 PLUS Saltwater Chlorinator | Discount Salt Pool

www.discountsaltpool.com

Make sure you get a salt test kit (Taylor K-1766) AND test your salt level BEFORE you add any salt. You will be surprised how high your current salt levels.

You also want to make sure you tie the salt cell power to the power source for your pump. You don't want to allow the cell to run when the pump is not running.

If you are reasonably comfortable with PVC work, it is an easy job.

Can you post a picture of your equipment pad...can help figure out where to plumb.

 

[sande005]

X2 on the CircuPool RJ series. And they don't reduce the warranty if done DIY.
The only catch with a SWCG is that you cannot let it operate if the pump is not running. If you don't use automation to control it. then see this thread about ideas. Variable speed pump controlled with Intermatic timer

Many of us just set the pump for barely above minimum speed and leave it at that 24/7. Saves a HUGE amount in the electrical bill. I use a multi-channel timer to cycle the pump on/off every 24 hrs (mine doesn't know what time it is), and turn on/off the SWCG slightly before/after that reset time. The thread above has a great idea about using a relay to sense when the pump has power, and that controls the power to the SWCG.
Once I mapped out the new plumbing config needed, it was a very easy install. Even if you have never cut and glued PVC before (hint - buy extra pipe and fittings to practice a bit if you've never done it - we can help if you need).

My only takeaway -regret over the thousands of lost hours and dollars dealing with a pool that was always going green, over the last almost 20 years. These last 2 with the SWCG I hardly know what to do with my free time. And the pool is always perfect.

 

[mknauss]

Even if you have never cut and glued PVC before (hint - buy extra pipe and fittings to practice a bit if you've never done it - we can help if you need).

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Rxinverstor]

Thanks for the responses. Considering I have a Pentair system I assume I should get a Pentair salt cell so it can integrate into the automation and my mobile app. Looking at my plumbing, the only 2” section is the vertical near the control unit. I’m comfortable with PVC although I wish the pipe were horizontal. Understanding this will be under high pressure, making a precise cut will be the key. Hopefully the cell comes with a template for installation.

 

[ajw22]

ThConsidering I have a Pentair system I assume I should get a Pentair salt cell so it can integrate into the automation and my mobile app.

Yes. You need the Power Center and the cell. The Power Center will connect with a 2 wire RS-485 connection to your EasyTouch.

Looking at my plumbing, the only 2” section is the vertical near the control unit.

Best place for the cell is between the filter and the diverter valve.

Come out the filter with a pipe going up and your cell vertical in the up pipe. Then Loop down and connect to the diverter.

I’m comfortable with PVC although I wish the pipe were horizontal.

Why? Vertical mounting is shown as the preferred oerientation in the Installation Manu8al. You have reviewed the IntelliChlor Installation Manual?

Understanding this will be under high pressure,

Pressure is low.

making a precise cut will be the key.

Precise cuts always help.

Hopefully the cell comes with a template for installation.

It does not.

 

[SJPoe]

I'm thinking I'd be better off with a salt water system. I'm curious if anyone out there has made this conversion

Yes. Did this last year. You can attempt to pry my Circupool RJ-60+ from my cold, dead hands. I will never go back to Jug-Lugging.

I used to test and dose pretty much daily, now I generally test once a week or so, and at most, have to press up or down on a key pad to fine tune things.
My TA/PH is very stable, I barely have to do anything for that. I don't have any real automation (although I dabble a little with some Raspberry PI based monitoring and dashboards) and my VSP pump runs 24/7 at low speed.

 

[proavia]

You also may want to review the manual on your cyclonic pre-filter.
This ones I've see have the input from the pump entering on the bottom and the output to the filter exiting on the top.
Your manufacturer may have done it differently, but worth checking.

 

[Rxinverstor]

Thanks, AJW22. I looked at the Intellichlor installation manual. The plumbing coming out of the filter is 2.5", per your response and the manual, I'll need to plumb a 2" bypass loop between the filter and diverter with flow control valve and install the cell on the upswing of the loop. Based on other posts, the IC40 would be the appropriate cell. My plan is to make this conversion with a drain and refill of the water.

 

[ajw22]

You don't need the bypass and flow control valve. Your system cannot exceed the maximum flow rate.

 

[Rxinverstor]

OK. Couple more questions if you don't mind. Can I reduce to a 2" pipe coming out of the filter? How do you suggest plumbing up to the diverter? Right now, there is a 45-degree 2.5" coupling which is immediately adjacent to the diverter. There is nothing for me to connect the new 2" pipe up to.