So this happened
- Thread starter Newdude
- Start date
- May 23, 2015
- 25,707
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Hmmmm … you may need an M series robot to cover those distances and depths. And S series may come up short or you’ll have to run it on 2 cycles.
Either way, make sure you get the robot with foam rollers. You don’t want to damage a brand new liner.
So I need about 60.9 to the corner, plus whatever I need to go down in the deep end corner. I can do more maths for that part but it will be SO much easier to measure a 65 ft string and see if it reaches.
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Or...... I take the existing outlet at the red X, make a new (higher, less trip-y, and more out of the way) post in yellow, and probably have enough cord in blue.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,707
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
kul
Bronze Supporter
- Oct 1, 2021
- 1,434
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Just saw your geometry solution and now it makes sense why we learned what a hypotenuse is - for this pool moment. 
Option 2 is looking much better now that I drew them out. While walking around out there mumbling to myself, it's too easy to be distracted by the construction zone and
OOOOOOOOOOH !!!!!!! Squirrel !!!!!!
And yet, mitochondria being the powerhouse of the cell has YET to come in handy.
kul
Bronze Supporter
- Oct 1, 2021
- 1,434
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Gosh I’m starting to remember things. Plant cells are square? Animal cells are round? Is it true??!!!
Edit: or something about a wall?!
Edit: or something about a wall?!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,652
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would want some sort of little "dog house" for my robot, with the outlet next to it (screwed onto it) or inside, along the back wall of it. Located just on the landscaping side of the edge of the deck, so as far from the water as the width of the deck. Just big enough to accommodate the robot and the coiled up cord, all the cord when the robot is in the dog house, and the un-needed cord when the robot is in the water. Some sort of hinged top, with a floor the same material as the deck. Maybe the top and front are hinged (top hinged to the back, front hinged to the top), so they both open up for easy access. Disguised or hidden as much as possible by landscaping. Party time? Robot goes into the dog house along with cord and out-of-sight-out-of mind. That would be the shortest distance to carry the robot to hide it or store it, and the shortest amount of cord crossing the deck to have to look at while the robot was in the water. So that's where I'd stub out the conduit for the robot's outlet, where the back of the robot house would be.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,707
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Most small Suncast deck boxes can easily accommodate a robot. Just put some cut sections of 2x4 on the bottom to lift the bot off it’s brushes.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,652
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If I knew before my deck and coping that I was going to have a robot, I'd devise some way to obscure the cable through the deck. Some sort of channel, running from the robot house through the deck, and maybe even the coping. One with a simple grate, level with the deck, that could easily be removed, and I'd run the robot's cable in that. I'd want to hide the robot and its cable as much as possible/practical, while at the same time minimizing the tripping hazard of the cable. Something like a channel drain.
I'm sure to others this (and the robot house) would be a "Huh?", but for me, the cable across the deck is a deal breaker for a robot. And I wouldn't want to be looking at a robot sitting by the side of the pool while it was "off duty."
I'm sure to others this (and the robot house) would be a "Huh?", but for me, the cable across the deck is a deal breaker for a robot. And I wouldn't want to be looking at a robot sitting by the side of the pool while it was "off duty."
- May 23, 2015
- 25,707
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
We have some low voltage landscape wiring running through channel drains but it’s off at the perimeter of the deck, not anywhere on the pool deck. I suppose you could run channel drain to the pool coping where one might cut a control or expansion joint, but channel drains can look ugly on a deck. I suppose it’s a choice of asthetics over functionality.
That's EXACTLY what I am thinking about, which is why placement is a concern. The diving board will make the deep end a heavily trafficked area on all 3 sides. The back wall of the shallow end will be much less traveled, but I don't want to look across at the robot house either. Going to the close corner of the deep end will put it mostly out of view and I can move it further away from the deep end patio to be out of the way *and* be much less look-y at-y.
While awsome, I don't mind the deck cord when in occasional use. Most of its life will be garaged in the robot house for me, so the channel drain will be an extra step each time for a 2 hour (?) cleaning cycle. If it was going to live in the pool, then it's a perfect idea.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,652
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Ah, right. I assumed most folks leave their robot in the water most of the time, and take it out when they want to hide it (that's how I manage my suction-side vac). I like your MO better, where it's only in the water when you want it to clean. I wouldn't mind so much looking at the cord if it was only for a few hours a few times a week, and also wouldn't want to bother with a channel each time.
Just doin' my job:
I only manually vacuumed the old pool, with TONS of debris, once a week. I am hoping the less powerful robot will do fine at a similar interval with much less debris. Even if it needs 2 cleanings a week I'm OK tossing the robot in with the cord on the deck and coming back later to put it away.
But Micky from Rocky taught me that I can wish in one hand and poop in the other to see which one fills first. So it might not work out like I'm hoping.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,707
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You have a good backyard in that there are no trees near the pool ... keep it that way. But how do you plan to manage keeping the pool from having junk blown into it? Will there be a fence to block leaf travel? I suspect in the height of your swim season (July/Aug), you will not need the robot much. Spring and fall will be tough and the robot will run a lot more.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,652
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Where are the returns? I see the skimmer and the light, are there returns in the walls, too? Or do they drill those later?
The reason I ask is regarding the auto-leveling system. Are you considering one? Mine is attached to my pool via an equalizer pipe, that emerges about 2' down. Added water and overflow water enter/exit the pool through that pipe's opening (it just looks like a return fitting). I really like this setup for a few reasons.
There is no visible or audible stream of water filling my pool at any odd times of the day or night, it happens invisibly.
There is no water-level grate or hole for overflow, which would be problematic for several reasons. One, it makes the max water in your pool unadjustable, two, the outlet can get clogged with leaves, and three, water from waves generated by swimmers can exit the pool wastefully.
But mostly I like overflow water leaving the pool from a few feet down. However much or little, I think this minimizes my calcium and salt buildup. Whenever it rains, that fresh water mostly floats on the surface until it mixes in. But before it does, it is displacing salt- and calcium-rich water from below, through that equalizer pipe. An overflow port at the water level would also siphon off some of that fresh water goodness, but mostly it is the displacement action. So each time it rains, I'm getting a little water exchange. This is not the same as excess rain water later evaporating, as that would not remove any chemicals. Since I took over the pool, I haven't seen a significant increase in calcium, and I've had to add a little salt a few times. I do get some splash out, but that doesn't account for my pool's chemical stability. I believe a lot of the excess salt and calcium are leaving through my auto-leveler system.
I also sometimes manipulate the overflow threshold (which is easily adjustable with my auto-leveler). I can either lower the water just before a rain, or trap an extra inch or two of rain water, to further facilitate these mini-exchanges.
Anywho, if any of that sounds interesting, the auto-leveling system would need to go in now. I think Pentair makes one. I have a poolmiser.com. Regardless if my theories "hold water" or not, I wouldn't want to own a pool without an auto-leveler.
The reason I ask is regarding the auto-leveling system. Are you considering one? Mine is attached to my pool via an equalizer pipe, that emerges about 2' down. Added water and overflow water enter/exit the pool through that pipe's opening (it just looks like a return fitting). I really like this setup for a few reasons.
There is no visible or audible stream of water filling my pool at any odd times of the day or night, it happens invisibly.
There is no water-level grate or hole for overflow, which would be problematic for several reasons. One, it makes the max water in your pool unadjustable, two, the outlet can get clogged with leaves, and three, water from waves generated by swimmers can exit the pool wastefully.
But mostly I like overflow water leaving the pool from a few feet down. However much or little, I think this minimizes my calcium and salt buildup. Whenever it rains, that fresh water mostly floats on the surface until it mixes in. But before it does, it is displacing salt- and calcium-rich water from below, through that equalizer pipe. An overflow port at the water level would also siphon off some of that fresh water goodness, but mostly it is the displacement action. So each time it rains, I'm getting a little water exchange. This is not the same as excess rain water later evaporating, as that would not remove any chemicals. Since I took over the pool, I haven't seen a significant increase in calcium, and I've had to add a little salt a few times. I do get some splash out, but that doesn't account for my pool's chemical stability. I believe a lot of the excess salt and calcium are leaving through my auto-leveler system.
I also sometimes manipulate the overflow threshold (which is easily adjustable with my auto-leveler). I can either lower the water just before a rain, or trap an extra inch or two of rain water, to further facilitate these mini-exchanges.
Anywho, if any of that sounds interesting, the auto-leveling system would need to go in now. I think Pentair makes one. I have a poolmiser.com. Regardless if my theories "hold water" or not, I wouldn't want to own a pool without an auto-leveler.
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Backyard leaf blowing (from the immediate neighbor to the left) was minimal last fall. The perimeter fence stopped most of it from that side. The back and right side fence is new and should stop most of anything coming from those directories. I won't mind having to occasionally scoop/net and manually vac when need be. The robot handling the bulk of my cleaning chores mid season is all I'm asking from it.
Now. Farm dirt may be a whole different story everytime they plow a new crop. It remains to be seen what kind of curveball that throws into the mix.
2 in the shallow end, already installed in the wall, blowing straight at the skimmers.
We don't generally do overflows here because it's one more thing to winterize. Our evaporation mostly equals the rainfall and more often than not it remains in that sweet spot. If it was a dry summer I had to fill a few inches 2 or 3 times, and if it was a wet summer I had to drain 2 or 3 times. It wasn't nearly enough frequency to spend on a work around. Plus, with a waste line before the Cartridge filter, draining 3 inches with the intelliflo isn't worth walking away from the pad for. Turn the waste valve, twiddle my thumbs for 2 mins and put back into circulation.
whenever i would break down and decide to add, i would then
as the 2 week weather forecast changed that instant and now calls for 4 inches of rain............. in other news today, Tropical storm Hernando, which was out to sea, jogged 500 miles west and will now pound the east coast.
Every. Last. Time.
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