Raypak Pool Heater Troubles..

[evanwellens]

It's the time of year and pool is in the process of being opened . Went to test the Heater ( Raypak 399K Natural Gas Nickle ) and the panel flickers with all hashes..
Power cycled it several times same deal. Next morning I went to record the issue and all worked heater came on , display showed standard firmware message etc..

Now I see water leaking from what appears to be the screws in the front of the heat exchanger ( see attached photos / video )

Raypak 2022

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This heater is only 5 years old and I'm hoping can be salvaged...

Any advice would be so awesome !!!

 

[1poolman1]

You may need to replace the O ring in the heater connection that is dripping. DO NOT use a lot of pressure to remove the connection, as with large Channel-Lock pliers, and especially not to tighten, or the ring will split on 5-year-old plastic. Lubricate the O ring and hand-tight plus a little more should stop the leak.

 

[evanwellens]

You may need to replace the O ring in the heater connection that is dripping. DO NOT use a lot of pressure to remove the connection, as with large Channel-Lock pliers, and especially not to tighten, or the ring will split on 5-year-old plastic. Lubricate the O ring and hand-tight plus a little more should stop the leak.

Thank you so much for the reply and warning. Last year I took the rear of the exchange apart and there was 1 long oring. I assume that's what you mean.. I ordered a couple. Can I use magic lube to lubricate this area even though it's exposed to heat ?

 

[1poolman1]

Without seeing from the top, it looks like the leak is at the plumbing connection, the half-union, not the header. There is an O ring at the connection, it can be lightly greased. That grey collar gets a bit brittle after a while. The orange ring between the header and heat exchanger doesn't need lube except to hold it in place in the header.

 

[evanwellens]

I noticed this last year and meant to take action , but must have slipped my mind. I see paint blistered on the outside of the pool heater top towards the water connections < see pict >

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What could be causing this ? I read broken refactory panel , but I would think the sides then would have signs. Also perhaps related we occasionally get a high limit fault, especially when it's warmer out.

 

[evanwellens]

The video has a better perspective... I took a screen shot and attached. Unfortunately everything had to be put back together as bad weather is heading our way. seems to come from the screw area.

 

[1poolman1]

That does look like a leak at the header.

 

[1poolman1]

That is definitely over heating. Five or six years ago RayPak had an issue with heat in that area of the heater and hi-limit tripping. Their recommendation was to fill that corner with fiberglass insulation. Didn't care for that and quit selling their heater.

 

[evanwellens]

That is definitely over heating. Five or six years ago RayPak had an issue with heat in that area of the heater and hi-limit tripping. Their recommendation was to fill that corner with fiberglass insulation. Didn't care for that and quit selling their heater.

Wow that's unfortunate. I was a jandy owner , but they weren't very helpful to the consumer. Was advised raypak was ... At least the publish the troubleshooting guide. So do you think the fiberglass idea makes sense ? Seems something that would collect and retain water and prematurely degrade the components.

 

[ajw22]

Read RayPak Heaters - Further Reading

and

New Raypak LP heater issue. high limit fault

Just installed my new heater. It keeps tripping the high limit 2 switch. I think it’s a 135 degree trip. I put a thermocouple on that switch and noticed that if the side cover is off, it runs 120 - 128 degrees. If I put the cover back on it runs 127 - 137 degrees and trips. Why would it run...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[evanwellens]

Read RayPak Heaters - Further Reading

and

New Raypak LP heater issue. high limit fault

Just installed my new heater. It keeps tripping the high limit 2 switch. I think it’s a 135 degree trip. I put a thermocouple on that switch and noticed that if the side cover is off, it runs 120 - 128 degrees. If I put the cover back on it runs 127 - 137 degrees and trips. Why would it run...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks... Wow I can't believe that is the company response to this.. Just curious what brand you switched to ? If you don't mind sharnig

 

[ajw22]

Thanks... Wow I can't believe that is the company response to this.. Just curious what brand you switched to ? If you don't mind sharnig

I don't have that Raypak heater. Just sharing what others here have posted.

I have a Pentair MasterTemp heater.

Every pool heater has its quirks and weaknesses. There is not a perfect bulletproof pool heater. We see problems with all of them.

Pool heaters are often ignored and have no maintenance done to them until there is a problem. Regular operation and preventative maintenance makes it more likley the heater will work when you want it.

Heater Maintenance - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[1poolman1]

Wow that's unfortunate. I was a jandy owner , but they weren't very helpful to the consumer. Was advised raypak was ... At least the publish the troubleshooting guide. So do you think the fiberglass idea makes sense ? Seems something that would collect and retain water and prematurely degrade the components.

I know that it works because I had to do it. Rain usually does not enter that area of the heater unless, and I've seen it, there is a huge amount of water falling off a roof that isn't diverted by a gutter. That's, partially, what the pan above the header is for.

Thanks... Wow I can't believe that is the company response to this.. Just curious what brand you switched to ? If you don't mind sharnig

Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm, Pentair MaterTemp (same heater different box). Always like the RayPak for ease of repair, sorry to make the change.

 

[setsailsoon]

Soon I'll be dealing with the "which heater to go with" on my new build. I had a Jandy before but their DIY support is non-existent. Other major OEM's are trending the same way. It seems to me the components are all made by third parties and very similar although there are minor differences in controls. If I had to chose right now it would be Max Therm E 400 that I believe was Sta-Rite has been purchased by Pentair.

Reasons:

• Circular firebox with enclosed down-draft burner seems to be more resistant to external corrosion
• Corrosion resistant housing
• Flexible top housing easy to configure convenient spot for panel viewing
• Warranty is 2 yr limited but there are so many caveats about heater warranties the high dollar claims can be hard to pursue for all manufacturers
• Flame sensing ignition design that I understand a lot about now and is extremely safe
• Base offering is a copper heat exchanger which I think will last 15 years if chemistry adheres to TFP recommendations

There are several models in several brands that meet my preferences. So I'll just get the one that does all the above at the best price. Right now that's a Sta-Rite 400 from Doheny's.

Chris

 

[evanwellens]

Wow , guess when this one goes ( hopefully not tooo soon ) I'll check out Sta-Rite. Thanks for the wisdom !!

 

[evanwellens]

That does look like a leak at the header.

Wow that was much more involved than I realized.. Had very carefully disconnect all the rusty connections , then disconnect the water lines just to even start.. Crazy I didn't loose any bolts during the process.. Thanks for your help , heater shows no signs of leaks ( at the moment ;-) )