Ph after water softener First readings

[mknauss]

You can also just make a full brine solution (~ 3lbs per gallon) by dissolving salt in water up to its solubility limit and then just fill the tank with the brine water instead of trying to jam salt powder down the throat.

I tried that. No patience.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I wonder how long a typical water softener lasts?

Manufacturer claims 7 to 10 years.

I use this cheap flowmeter to track usage. Only had it for a few months, but no problems so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-56854-Hose-Water-Meter/dp/B0187BOFD6/ref=asc_df_B0187BOFD6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216531775325&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15243928837415493963&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031206&hvtargid=pla-350649413728&psc=1

 

[kul]

Update: RO took roughly 15 hours. 5 hours yesterday, off overnight, then a little less than 10 hours today. I did some measurements about 2 hours before it ended, but think I was off on my CYA because water was around 50 degrees and it was cloudy outside. Pool log available. Anyhow final measurements tomorrow then the company will add chemicals (chlorine, calcium) as appropriate. I’m told I’ll be provided measurements taken before/after from the machine as well. My TDS count was over 5000 when it started.
So far only thing I know is that if I do this again in a few years, I’ll let this thing run overnight rather than drawing it out.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

CH @225 is a good starting point. Don't let them add more. Your goal is to keep CSI slightly negative (0.0 to -.30) to mitigate scaling. You can allow your pH to increase to 7.8 and allow TA to rise 10-20 ppm to get CSI in range. It's a bit aggressive now at -1.01. As CH increases, so will CSI.

That's a bargain price for RO service in our area. Glad it worked out for you!

 

[Newdude]

Bring the sample inside to warm up for CYA. You are correct that it’s skewed.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

What’s your Fill Water CH/TA/pH? If your fill water CH is high enough then no need to add any CH.

 

[kul]

Bring the sample inside to warm up for CYA. You are correct that it’s skewed.

Is it acceptable to warm the sample by placing the tube into a warm water bath - like a bowl? Or sticking it in my armpit for 30 seconds? I asked my husband who told me to ask my “pool friends” while laughing at me. He just doesn’t get how serious this is.

 

[mknauss]

Room temperature is fine. Should only take a few minutes to get it warmed up. I doubt your sample is cold enough to bother with your location.

 

[kul]

Room temperature is fine. Should only take a few minutes to get it warmed up. I doubt your sample is cold enough to bother with your location.

Thanks! Saves me some time. I thought I had read on another thread that the water has to be at 70 degrees and so that’s why I was considering warming it.

 

[mknauss]

70 is good number. But yours is 60+ I suspect. So up to you. Would take a few minutes indoors to warm up. Leave a sample until tomorrow or a few days and test then. CYA is not effected by time.

 

[kul]

What’s your Fill Water CH/TA/pH? If your fill water CH is high enough then no need to add any CH.

Fill water
Ph 7.6
CH 100 (4 drops to go to blue)
TA 110 (10 drops to go to pink 11 to go to red)

I might be slightly off, but not so dramatic that it would make a monumental difference. Getting my testing bearings. It’s still taking me a long time l, but faster than I was the first couple of times. It’s raining pretty heavy so I’m going to wait until it subsides in a day or two to retest.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Honestly, if the RO worked correctly then the CYA should be zero or below the 20ppm measurable limit. If you are getting any cloudiness

Fill water
Ph 7.6
CH 100 (4 drops to go to blue)
TA 110 (10 drops to go to pink 11 to go to red)

I might be slightly off, but not so dramatic that it would make a monumental difference. Getting my testing bearings. It’s still taking me a long time l, but faster than I was the first couple of times. It’s raining pretty heavy so I’m going to wait until it subsides in a day or two to retest.

For the TA test, stop counting when the red color stops developing. Your TA count is probably one drop higher so closer to 120 than 110. Your fill water isn't bad but the high hardness will add to the CH of the pool over time. SoCal can get pretty hot and dry in the summer and so when your evaporation rates are high you will add more fill water and thus more calcium.

As we've suggested before, hooking the fill line or hose spigot up to a water-softener is the only way to keep the CH in check. You can try to time some draining of the pool with rainstorms if you are reasonably good with weather prediction, but that's hit or miss at best. We Tucsonans are very sensitive about water issues and so we do all kinds of goofy things to capture and conserve water. A simple softener setup will go a long way ton making your pool water CH much more manageable.

 

[kul]

Just redid my CYA with room temp water. It’s between 0-20 now.
And ph is 7.0 - I have been having a bit of discrepancy between the meter and my eyes - then realized with the use of the standard 7.2 solution that my meter is reading 0.3 higher and so now, rather than making an adjustment I’ll just going to subtract 0.3. Sorry for the rambling over explaining of my nonsense.

 

[mknauss]

Just refit my CYA with room temp water. It’s between 0-20 now.

Hmm - cold water gives a false low reading. Appears yours did the opposite?

 

[kul]

hooking the fill line or hose spigot up to a water-softener is the only way to keep the CH in check

For sure. This is going to be the way to go plus doing perhaps partial small drains now and then. Since I have a spill over spa, in a few months, I’ll empty it into the pool and then while I’m draining this excess water from the pool I’ll have my water softener hose situation filling the spa. Aside from water conservation, my second motive for RO was not letting my plaster dry for any amount of time so for next time when addressing high CH I can easily now and then hose down the jacuzzi as it fills.

 

[kul]

Hmm - cold water gives a false low reading. Appears yours did the opposite?

I used the standard solution (50 at room temp) to train my eyes then I waited about an hour to test my real pool water and that’s what I came up with.
The RO company is coming in an hour or so to test everything once more before adding things in so it will be interesting to see what they get. The guy seems super legit and seems to use the TFP guidelines regarding liquid chlorine only and keeping Cya around 40 and CA around 250/300 to start. We are having clouds/rain so it’s tough to gauge CYA super accurately, but I do see for sure that it is definitely not in the crazy range where it was at 120-140.

 

[mknauss]

I would not add a bunch of CYA either way. No more than 20 ppm worth. Then get a good reading in the early spring.

 

[kul]

Thank you everyone for your support through this all! Next I’m going to wait for a sunny day to test everything and start to get everything in appropriate range. I can’t believe I’m finally getting my act together!

 

[mknauss]

Thank you everyone for your support through this all!

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[kul]

Hi please see my log. Should I believe my PH is accurate at 7.1 given that my chlorine is at 10.5? Trying to decide whether I should add baking soda or aerate via spa spillover and wait? If I should aerate- how long does aeration take to increase ph/TA? Or does aeration only raise ph and not TA?