I’m thoroughly confused. I have an 16x32x52 Intex ultra frame with the sand filter/swg. Different advice all over the place. I want to know when I add salt, chemicals to balance, backwash, turning on the pump, turning on the swg. Some people say salt first, others say salt last after you’ve balanced water. I also have high levels of manganese for which I got Metal Out for. Instructions on that are pretty clear. Says before chlorine is added and may need extra after backwashing, but also not to combine with other chemicals (?). When does backwashing occur? After everything has been added? My manual says I need to backwash upon setup. If I balance the water chemistry first, won’t backwashing screw up that balance? Is there a numbered list of steps I can follow? Help!
Order of operation
- Thread starter Glanz
- Start date
- May 11, 2021
- 973
- Pool Size
- 7000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30
Hello Glanz,
You should never mix chemicals outside the pool. Once they are diluted in the pool water you are OK. When adding chemicals always keep water circulating and give some time after adding each chemical before adding next so it dilutes properly. Some chemicals will take longer to show on test results (such as CYA), so be careful to not over shot. Avoid adding chemicals to your skimmer.
The very first think you should so, if not done already, is to bring your CYA to 40 using the sock method (assuming your pool has 15000 gallons you will need 5lb of stabilizer) and next you want to a gallon of LC to add some FC and keep your FC above 5ppm. This will prevent algae from forming.
Once you get the salt in and the SWCGworking you will need to bring your CYA to 70. Keep in mind an SWCG is good at maintaning FC levels, not at increasing them, so use LC to ensure it is at 5 ppm.
You should backwash whenever your filter is dirty (When pressure goes 25% above initial/clean pressure, so make sure to take a note of your initial pressure).
Backwashing is just removing water. So it does not directly affect you balance. If you refill after backwashing that may affect you balance, but should be minor unless you are adding a lot of fresh water. Independent of any other test schedule you adopt always fully test your water after major water additions (either refill or heavy rain).
Keep in mind Metal Out is a Sequestrant - Further Reading and does not actually remove metals from water.
You should never mix chemicals outside the pool. Once they are diluted in the pool water you are OK. When adding chemicals always keep water circulating and give some time after adding each chemical before adding next so it dilutes properly. Some chemicals will take longer to show on test results (such as CYA), so be careful to not over shot. Avoid adding chemicals to your skimmer.
The very first think you should so, if not done already, is to bring your CYA to 40 using the sock method (assuming your pool has 15000 gallons you will need 5lb of stabilizer) and next you want to a gallon of LC to add some FC and keep your FC above 5ppm. This will prevent algae from forming.
Once you get the salt in and the SWCGworking you will need to bring your CYA to 70. Keep in mind an SWCG is good at maintaning FC levels, not at increasing them, so use LC to ensure it is at 5 ppm.
You should backwash whenever your filter is dirty (When pressure goes 25% above initial/clean pressure, so make sure to take a note of your initial pressure).
Backwashing is just removing water. So it does not directly affect you balance. If you refill after backwashing that may affect you balance, but should be minor unless you are adding a lot of fresh water. Independent of any other test schedule you adopt always fully test your water after major water additions (either refill or heavy rain).
Keep in mind Metal Out is a Sequestrant - Further Reading and does not actually remove metals from water.
Last edited:
Thanks for the detailed reply. If I’m unable to get a hold of liquid chlorine, I have hth super 4-1 shock treatment. Would that be suitable to keep the water clean until LC is in stock?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,797
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That HTH will increase the FC level, but it will also add calcium which your pool does not need. It won't hurt at the moment unless you use so much over time that the CH level gets too high (scale). I would continue shopping for liquid chlorine or regulars bleach.
Just to confirm as noted above, your 3 biggest things right now are:
1 - CYA (stabilizer) added via the sock method for a minimum CYA of 30
2 - FC maintained at about 3 ppm until the stabilizer is in. Once the CYA is added, balance the FC to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.
3 - Balance the pH between 7.2 - 7.8.
Focus on those for now.
Just to confirm as noted above, your 3 biggest things right now are:
1 - CYA (stabilizer) added via the sock method for a minimum CYA of 30
2 - FC maintained at about 3 ppm until the stabilizer is in. Once the CYA is added, balance the FC to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.
3 - Balance the pH between 7.2 - 7.8.
Focus on those for now.
Ok I’ve found liquid chlorine (finally) as well as stabilizer. The pool is currently filling up. Can I put the salt in now why it’s filling and then once it’s full add the LC/stabilizer and turn the pump on for 24 hrs before turning on the swg? Or should the LC/stabilizer go in now while it’s filling? Still confused about that order and if there needs to be time between adding those three components.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,383
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Does the pool need to be filled entirely first before adding salt/chemicals? I was under the impression they need the pump on to be able to circulate, but that obviously can’t happen until the water level reaches the water outlet. Am I over thinking this?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,383
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40