New guy needs help

Txjole

0
Bronze Supporter
Aug 22, 2018
290
Wylie/TX
I’ve come to the conclusion all my PB wants to do is dig holes. Pool chemistry is still, by contract, in his hands, but I have no faith. He had 400lbs of salt added Wednesday. Pump runs at 1750rpm during the day and shuts down at 8pm. (No ScreenLogic installed yet). Here are my test results this morning. What would you do? 7F47C4A3-F856-4BF9-9824-573CF4F263A8.png
 
I'd bump-up that FC with regular bleach to about 5-6 to prevent algae, then I'd let that pH rise (for your plaster) to about 7.8, maybe even 8.0 for now while your water is so chilly. Once the water temp goes up to about 70-80 it's a whole different ball game. Sure, the CH is low, but fill water later will increase that I imagine or you can add calcium later. Letting the pH increase (now) will have the fastest change on your CSI to get it closer to zero.
 
What date was plaster done and water filled in your pool?
 
Plaster Jan 22. Water #1 Jan 24. Water #2 Feb 11th. #2 was not an acid bath, just tap after replacing tile. I will let it marinate and get a full chem reading in the morning
 
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:hug: you will only have failed if you did not have a good test to show you what is what. I will tell you that your pH might be higher that 8.2 so be ready just in case it does not go down the first time you add acid. If your pH does not reach your goal of say 7.5 then let the pump run for about 15 mins. Retest and dose again. Keep up the every 15 min pump run, test, dose until you get it down to the 7s.

Kim:kim:
 
Problem is I have NO CLUE how to change the pump. It says no display and I don’t want to go hitting buttons. Guess I need to YouTube. Sad my Dad was a level A water treatment plant engineer, and past suddenly in June when I was planning all this. (Having those, if only dad was here moments).
 
Jole,

The pump says "Display not active" because it is being controlled by your EasyTouch and ScreenLogic.. (I see your ScreenLogic is not set up..)

The simplest thing to do is just wait for the pump to come on tomorrow morning.

If you put the system in the "Service" mode, you can then control the pump at the pump.. But to be honest, I would not screw with it until the pool builder turns the pool over to you.. And, hopefully shows you how to use your automation.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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The hits just keep coming. Got my salt test strips in today and getting a 4490 ppm reading. (Aquachek strips.)


You get much more reliable salt test with K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

If your SWG is happy and generating then your salt level is ok.
 
Ok today’s readings. How bad is it. I fell lost. I have every chemical this group said buy. Just scared to dump thing.
 

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You look fine. Don’t take the suggestions literally. No change from what Pat said in post #2.

Let your ph drift up to 7.8.
 
You are doing fine. It IS a learning curve. The biggest curve is to remember there is a suggested range. It is NOT set in stone. You WILL find what works best for your pool over time. With your plaster being so new it will take extra time as the plaster cures. You did the right thing in NOT dumping any thing in the pool. Tweak one thing at a time to see how your pool reacts.

Now do something for me................go out to your new baby pool and look at your pretty water! That is the fruit of your labor and should make it all worth it! Now think of the time when you can jump in that and really enjoy it!!! :hug: you got this!

Kim:kim:
 
Ya it is looking ok for now. Just need to let that ph drift up to getcthe csi on range again. Ur fc is ok. It will drift down. I always stay a bit on the high side. Better high and safe vs low.

Keep it up. Learn how to use service mode so when u want to spin chemicals u can. It’s easy to go back and forth between.
 

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