Just ordered a new AGP to replace an Index Ultra 12x24

stygz

Active member
Jun 30, 2020
27
Middle Georgia
Hello! I am new to the forum. Well after about 3.5 years of use, our Intex Ultra is on life support. We had it set up by a local pool installer as we were new to pools. We had an 8x12 deck built at the narrow end. The pool was first set up SWG but that was putting too much copper in the pool. We reverted to chlorine about this time last year. We recently discovered the corner joint/top rail has a hole rusted through it. We can fit about 4 fingers in it. We also have a small hole that is not patched. Just hope it hold up a couple months until our new pool arrives.

The new. We ordered a 15x30 52" (about 11,500 gallons) Discovery XL hybrid pool. The local place sets it up with a 19'' sand filter and hayward 1.5 hp pump. We opted for a secondary floor drain to be added as well. We are currently thinking about how we are going to sanitize this pool. We were looking at the Frog system. Our neighbor has it and likes it but the pool company says skip it. We are also thinking about a hayward chlorinator or liquid chlorine. We will have to get a slight modification to our deck sometime. What else should we look into being this will be our first permeant pool.
 
Interesting. I have never heard of an SWG putting copper in pool. Didn’t / don’t think that is possible.

Maybe this?
 
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I should ask about electrical. When my pool was installed a few years back I had the wiring trenched to the pump location. I believe the electrician ran the power off my service box to a GFI. I don't see how I can get into the service box to see what size breaker they used. With that said, I really don't know what the draw requirements are on a 1.5hp hayward pump. I had the intex pump...probably about 1/2 to 1 hp area.
 
Just Say no to the frog! It will add all kinds of things you don’t want to your water including copper in some products. Here’s a link to all the frog products msds sheets

A swg will not add copper but will add chlorine for you! You’ll want one rated for 2x’s your pool volume.
Here’s a good link to help you decide how to chlorinate How to Chlorinate Your Pool - Trouble Free Pool

As For your electrical requirements most municipalities & National Electrical code dictate alot of that for u & generally require at least a dedicated gfci for your pump (which should list it’s amperage requirement- i have a 1.5 hp 110v pump & a 20 amp gfci is sufficient) as well as an additional gfci outlet on a separate circuit for general purpose.
These will likely at least be the minimum requirements to plan for :
0CAB6260-80E8-4D40-9697-D4CF39111D13.jpeg

Also you’ll need a good test kit so you can maintain your new pool well! SeeTest Kits Compared the tf-100 is the best value & coupled with TFP knowledge you can maintain beautiful safe water. Pool School - Trouble Free Pool has tons of info as well😊
 
Our test kit is due for replacement. It is around a year old and somewhat difficult to determine accurate numbers. I’ll probably use this one until our new pool arrives. It is possible it will not get installed until next season if the pool is delivered too late in the season. Best to have a fresh kit.

after what you said about electrical, I do believe I remember the electrician saying 20 amp. Yes, it is GFI. I probably will need to add/move the outlet as the pump will likely be relocated several feet away from the old location.

we are going to stay away from the SWG. We think the copper that was in our old system came from the components of the system. We seemed to always have some copper in our tests. The copper eventually started to stain the pool. Once we converted, our copper levels dropped out with a refil of water, metal sequester, and CUlater pack. I am leaning towards the liquid chlorine or using stabilized puck dispenser to keep from any corrosion of the metal panels even though the new pool is resin frame, galvanized sides, and stainless hardware.The pool company offers the frog system but said skip it. I can see how some may like it but with our past experience with metals, no thanks.



Iattached a pic of the display of the pool we got.
 

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You can only use the pucks for so long before they have to go. The pucks add CYA (stabilizer). You do need some CYA but once you get too much you have to remove and replace some of the water.

You are correct in that your OLD "swg" added the bad stuff to your pool but it was NOT a real swg. Real swg ONLY adds chlorine to the pool. It is up to you if you want it or not. I just want to give you something to think about with it.

I use liquid chlorine in my pool. When I go away for the weekend or such I do use the pucks. I keep my CYA on the lower side just so I can use them as needed.

Kim:kim:
 
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I got a Frog setup when we bought our pool last year.
I never even opened the box.

I use Muriatic acid from Lowes/Homer to lower pH. Borax to raise pH. Granular Cyrunanic acid when needed and I get all of my chlorine from bottles of bleach.
 
Maybe this?
You can only use the pucks for so long before they have to go. The pucks add CYA (stabilizer). You do need some CYA but once you get too much you have to remove and replace some of the water.

You are correct in that your OLD "swg" added the bad stuff to your pool but it was NOT a real swg. Real swg ONLY adds chlorine to the pool. It is up to you if you want it or not. I just want to give you something to think about with it.

I use liquid chlorine in my pool. When I go away for the weekend or such I do use the pucks. I keep my CYA on the lower side just so I can use them as needed.

Kim:kim:


I did once have to drain the pool because of elevated CYA. Curious what does a typical container 2.5 gallon container of chlorine from the pool store cost? I do see the value of liquid chlorine not having "additives". As of now, we are using granular cal hypo for shocking and a floater with one 3'' Clorox 99% puck (the one without the copper - least amount of additives). Last we checked (about 2 weeks ago) our CYA was 31. Pool store does a monthly check and we use our kit at home regularly.
 
Pool timer. Would this one be acceptable?


Wondering if I should ask about a two speed pump over the 1.5 hp Hayward? I should add that I did opt for dual floor drains when it gets installed.
 
Pool timer. Would this one be acceptable?


Wondering if I should ask about a two speed pump over the 1.5 hp Hayward? I should add that I did opt for dual floor drains when it gets installed.

I have a 2 speed 1.5 and there's no way I'd want a single speed 1.5. If I had to do single speed it would be 1hp.

I run my pump 24/7 in low speed. It's unbelievably quiet and doesn't cost a fortune but it also keeps stuff from sinking because the skimmer catches it most of the time.

So if it was me, skip the timer and go 2 speed.
 
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My neighbor has 2 speed. Yes, can’t even hear it run. I have learned from my current pool the longer I run it, the less problems I have. Currently run mine 12 hrs a day during the summer. I may have to give them a call and ask the cost to upgrade or just buy a 2 speed and sell the 1.5 Hayward that comes with their package
 
Just Say no to the frog! It will add all kinds of things you don’t want to your water including copper in some products. Here’s a link to all the frog products msds sheets

A swg will not add copper but will add chlorine for you! You’ll want one rated for 2x’s your pool volume.
Here’s a good link to help you decide how to chlorinate How to Chlorinate Your Pool - Trouble Free Pool

As For your electrical requirements most municipalities & National Electrical code dictate alot of that for u & generally require at least a dedicated gfci for your pump (which should list it’s amperage requirement- i have a 1.5 hp 110v pump & a 20 amp gfci is sufficient) as well as an additional gfci outlet on a separate circuit for general purpose.
These will likely at least be the minimum requirements to plan for :
View attachment 150282

One thing that is not mentioned is that for a 20 amp circuit you need at minimum 12/2 wire. NEC prohibits 14/2 on a 20amp circuit.
 
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One thing that is not mentioned is that for a 20 amp circuit you need at minimum 12/2 wire. NEC prohibits 14/2 on a 20amp circuit.

That depends on several things.
I'm not an electrician but this is my understanding.
A pool circuit from what I recall requires an insulated ground conductor so romex like 12/2 and 14/2 is out of the question anyway. If running THWN through a conduit and all terminals are rated to 75C then you should be good for 20A using 14 gauge wire.

You should of course take distance into consideration etc. This is why we always recommend hiring a licensed electrician to do the work.
 
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