Is this a good price ..

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He is correct on the heater, not on the salt. Most salt systems require 20-30GPM. I can get that down to about 1200RPM. I run at 1400 to protect from a dirty filter.
Gas heaters have different requirements. They are also a bit restrictive. The Raypak for example needs 20GPM for the 206, 25GPM for the 266, 35GPM for the 336, and 40GPM for the 300/406. When I run my heater, I need to run at 2200 to get 35 GPM.

I ran the numbers on the two VSP I recommended, the MaxFlo in one of the quotes, the Calimar, and a two speed super pump.

It is clear that the VSP is a clear winner over any single or two speed, the payback is obvious...get a VSP.
When it comes to the priciness of the higher HP VSP, two things are true:
  1. The Calimar (or similar Waterway Defender [which I don't have pump curves for...) being at lower price points is the winner. At $519, after 5 years, you can buy another pump and still be cheaper than any of the Hayward VSPs.
  2. There is savings in the larger VSP, but the payback period, for the pricey 3HP can be significant. The payback on the 950 is 7 years.
Net net:
Get a VSP, even if is smaller unit.
Gas heaters, and heat pumps are going to be restrictive and require higher GPM than the salt cell. Depending on how you use your heater, the payback calculation will change.

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Thank you very much. I sincerely appreciate your feedback. Some of this stuff is dizzying to me though LOL. You think I'd be fine with a high headvaroable speed 3hp pump, 400k BTU heater, 40k cell swg, and a c-4030 filter? Would they work fine together?
 
TL:DR Yes.
Your quotes are all over the place.
The 16x32 seems to be consistent...so consider you have a 20K pool.
Ensure that you get a VSP. (the point of my last post). I prefer the high head pump for the flexibility, lower noise, ability to push through the heater at lower RPM, cooler running etc. You will probably be fine with whichever you end up with.
Get the largest filter you are willing to pay for. The 4030 will only need to be cleaned once a year. If you are ok cleaning it more often, get a smaller one.
Yes, get a 40K cell.
On the heater, 250 will be fine. The 400 will heat the pool faster. Either will use the same gas. I like the flexibility of being able to turn the heater on the night before, or even in the morning and have it ready, rather than waiting.
In NY, get a solar cover. It will reduce your FC demand, keep pH more stable, and save you $ in gas costs.
 
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TL:DR Yes.
Your quotes are all over the place.
The 16x32 seems to be consistent...so consider you have a 20K pool.
Ensure that you get a VSP. (the point of my last post). I prefer the high head pump for the flexibility, lower noise, ability to push through the heater at lower RPM, cooler running etc. You will probably be fine with whichever you end up with.
Get the largest filter you are willing to pay for. The 4030 will only need to be cleaned once a year. If you are ok cleaning it more often, get a smaller one.
Yes, get a 40K cell.
On the heater, 250 will be fine. The 400 will heat the pool faster. Either will use the same gas. I like the flexibility of being able to turn the heater on the night before, or even in the morning and have it ready, rather than waiting.
In NY, get a solar cover. It will reduce your FC demand, keep pH more stable, and save you $ in gas costs.
Your very helpful, thanks sooooo much. So I will get a 3HP pump but how do I know which pumps are high head? Assuming not all 3HP are high head, correct?

So these are the questions I have the answers to from pool builders.
1. Manufacturer and model numbers for pump, heater, SWG.
2. Liner thickness and manufacturer.
3. Wall system.

Finally, are there any other important questions I should ask regarding the build?
I have two builders coming next week to look at yard.
 
So I will get a 3HP pump but how do I know which pumps are high head?
Most 3HP pumps are high head. Look at the pump curve...if the 3450 line is 80+ on the left side, it is high head (or so). As per my previous post, the most benefit comes from having a VSP. If you get a VSP, you will get the majority of the benefit.

Make sure that your skimmer openings face prevailing winds.
Last payment should be at least 10% AFTER pool opening and confirmation that everything works.
Totally personal, based on experience here...I would not put main drains in a vinyl pool, more problems than benefit.
 
Most 3HP pumps are high head. Look at the pump curve...if the 3450 line is 80+ on the left side, it is high head (or so). As per my previous post, the most benefit comes from having a VSP. If you get a VSP, you will get the majority of the benefit.

Make sure that your skimmer openings face prevailing winds.
Last payment should be at least 10% AFTER pool opening and confirmation that everything works.
Totally personal, based on experience here...I would not put main drains in a vinyl pool, more problems than benefit.
Ok guess I need to look at historical data to see an average of where prevailing winds come from?

Do you mind explain a little more about putting main drains in vinyl pool? What are these and what the other option? Thanks.
 
Do you mind explain a little more about putting main drains in vinyl pool? What are these and what the other option? Thanks.
It’s not the drain that leaks, it’s the seal that holds the vinyl to the drain body, or the plumbing, or both. Any penetration in a vinyl liner needs to be properly sealed. The problem with the main drain is that it is the very bottom of the pool. So a leak there will pretty much empties the entire pool.

The only major benefit a main drain can afford is improving heater performance. Without a main drain to circulate water out of the hopper, you’ll have warm surface water and cold deep water. A decent robot or automatic vacuum can help with water distribution. I've found, with a decent robot, the water temperature is just fine with a robot re-distributing water.

I would not put a main drain in if I have to build a liner pool. But that’s just my one opinion.
 
It’s not the drain that leaks, it’s the seal that holds the vinyl to the drain body, or the plumbing, or both. Any penetration in a vinyl liner needs to be properly sealed. The problem with the main drain is that it is the very bottom of the pool. So a leak there will pretty much empties the entire pool.

The only major benefit a main drain can afford is improving heater performance. Without a main drain to circulate water out of the hopper, you’ll have warm surface water and cold deep water. A decent robot or automatic vacuum can help with water distribution. I've found, with a decent robot, the water temperature is just fine with a robot re-distributing water.

I would not put a main drain in if I have to build a liner pool. But that’s just my one opinion.
So what is the purpose of the MAIN DRAIN? If one decides not to put one in then your eliminating what process? Does an alternative have to be done in lieu of a main drain? Thanks.
 
So what is the purpose of the MAIN DRAIN? If one decides not to put one in then your eliminating what process? Does an alternative have to be done in lieu of a main drain? Thanks.
You are eliminating a source of water for the pump, and a bit of circulation, that’s about it. A main drain is not required. No alternative has to be done. My dolphin, running once per day is plenty circulation.

Is there a particular amount of skimmers I should have for a 16x32 pool?
1 skimmer per 400sqft of surface area. Two is plenty. I have a 30K pool, 20x40. Two skimmers, no drain. Pool works just fine.
 

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Hayward Tristar vs 900 is a good mid price. Waterway Defender 2.7 is alt brand and lower price. Cheap route is Calimar 3hp VSP.
 
I don’t know how you get 400K BTUs from a boiler rated at 97K BTUs.

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Anything i should tell my builder for the equipment pad?
That it needs to be cement. The prefab square slab things are mostly styrofoam and mine was shot in 5 years up here.

(This is in the Wiki but it's 5 pages down)
 
So I was reading on here about valves on this site and added the following to my list of things to request of my builder.

13. Diverter valves. Use ones from jandy , pentair or hayward. Avoid big box store ones.
14. Check valves - Avoid hardware store ones that use spring loaded plug. USe ones that have springing flab mechanism.

Is this something I should really request?
 

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