HELP! Hayward heater and Omnilogic controllers - app is not switching heater back and forth

shane85

New member
Jul 16, 2022
3
Canada
Hi there,

I am new to the forms but was searching and found a few related posts - so thought I would make one and hopefully get some help.

We built our 18x36 pool 2 years ago. We are using hayward and omnilogic products.
6 months after our pool was operational (it is salt water), the heat exchange in the Hayward heater went. I contacted hayward support and they thought this was extremely rare since it was so new, but they warranty'd it and sent me a new heat exchange.
1 year later (about 2 months ago) again, the heat exchange went, and this time - the entire heater was broken. I am extremely disappointed that after 2 seasons of having my pool, I have now had to replace my heater - is this common? Unfortunately I am not on good terms with the person the company that did the install (they did a pool for myself as well as few friends, and ultimately mine was the only one that was completed and they are in a legal battle with the others).

Regardless - and to the point of this post:

As mentioned, 2 months ago I had to buy a brand new hayward heater. Since it was installed, when I use my omnilogic app on my phone to toggle between pool and spa, it only switches the valves and not the heater itself. Therefore, if the heater is set on pool (which I keep at approx. 82) and I switch it to hot tub, the hot tub won't heat past 82 (since the heater is still set to this). I have had 2 instances where it was the other way around and it was on hot tub, and my pool heated to 90 degrees +.

I am attaching a few pics of my equipment room for all of the pool equipment. Not sure if perhaps a wire was done wrong, or if perhaps something was just broken and not working correctly on the brand new heater I got. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. The company that installed the heater for me says they do this all he time and its all correct, and that they are trying to get ahold of hayward's tech support to see what is happening (2 months later......)

Appreciate any help.

Thank you,
Shane
 

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Welcome to TFP.

See page 26 in https://www.hayward-pool.com/assets...as-Heaters-Installation-Operations-Manual.pdf

The display needs to show code bo showing it is set for remote operation.

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To configure the heater for 2-wire remote thermostat control, use the “MODE” key on the heater keypad to put the control into “STANDBY” mode. Then simultaneously press and hold the “( - )” and “MODE” keys for 3 seconds until the display shows the code “bo” (bypass operation). Once in bypass operation, press the ‘MODE’ button until ‘POOL’ or ‘SPA’ LED is illuminated. The control is now ready to operate in 2-wire remote thermostat control. The heater’s thermostat will only function to limit the return water temperature to a maximum of 104°F.
 
I suggest you look at your water chemistry and review TFP Methods. You should not be having the frequent heater failures.

Do you run your heater in the winter?


 
Thank you very much for the quick responses.
In regards to the heater- we do run it in the winter because our hot tub and pool exchange water (there is an overflow from the hot tub going into the pool). In the winter, we do not heat the pool, however, we do heat the hot tub consistently.

I followed your advice and I THINK it may be working correctly now. When it is in BO mode, essentially it doesn't matter if it is left on pool or hot tub? Initially I misread it and thought both had to be selected but quickly realized I couldn't do that.

I have attached some images of the app on my phone, and the heater. Does everything look correct?
 

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Regardless the setting on automation, the heater will only heat to ITS set temperature. That is why we set the heater to its maximum (104) setting and allow the automation to turn it on an off by interrupting the control power. Even in "bo" mode, all heater safety systems, including its internal temp control, are in operation.

Pool or spa "mode" just allow for different temperature settings if the heater is a "stand alone" unit, no automation. Your Hayward system now takes care of that.
 
Yes, it looks correct now.

I believe the way you are running your heater in the winter is creating corrosive condensation. Either that or your water chemistry is too acidic and corrosive.

If you don’t change something then expect to go through a heater every year or two.
 
Thank you everyone for your comments - greatly appreciate it.
I will do further reading about the corrosive condensation because I believe that is the cause of this. Would you have any tips or tricks for that or how I can avoid that? I can't afford to have that happen so often.
 
Would you have any tips or tricks for that or how I can avoid that? I can't afford to have that happen so often.

Read Heater Condensation - Further Reading and then let's discuss.

Pool heaters are not designed to constantly cycle and heat water less than 60F.

You may need a heater that is designed with a condensation trap and drain.

The Hayward Universal HC Series Heater includes Condensate Management. The UHC Installation and Operation Manual says:


In certain running conditions, any pool heater can produce condensate while it is running or sweat during an off-cycle. The formation of moisture on the heat exchanger depends on many factors including water temperature, humidity, flow rate, and ambient temperature which cannot be controlled. Because of this, observations of how much condensation is created by the unit will vary greatly. Consideration has gone into the design of Hayward’s HDF series pool heater to allow any moisture in the combustion chamber to drain out of the unit. Not allowing moisture to dwell in the unit will increase the life and reliability of your new pool heater. The condensate formed during combustion will be slightly acidic, about the same pH as a cup of black coffee. If condensate from the unit needs to be routed off the equipment pad or into a drain, the unit has been supplied with a 6 foot length of rubber hosing and a connection on the bottom of the exhaust side of the unit.

Note that the pH of black coffee is around 5 and Hayward is being disingenuous by not simply stating the low pH which is clearly acidic.

The Pentair ETI 400 Heater or the UltraTemp Hybrid Heater has a condensate drain and the Installation Manual says:


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