Help choosing SWG

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Diego168 said:
I think I’m leaning toward the aqr 15 from Hayward. Anybody knows if it’s true that they don’t honor the warranty if you install it your self.
I did all the electrical wiring for my pool and feel comfortable doing it myself. Would suck to get the warranty void .
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I looked at the AQR manual and did not see any disclaimer that lessens the warranty period if the owner self installs. Pentair cuts the warranty time for a self install.
 
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lmnconn said:
I’m using the Taylor test kit, same as you. I was at 4000 and just not getting chlorine production and not seeing any bubbles in the salt cell. I added one bag of salt last night, which brings my level up an additional 200ppm. I stirred it around and let the pump run all night without the SWG running. This morning, I turned on th SWG and it’s now producing chlorine. I had some notes from last year when I spoke with a tech at Circupool. He told me to keep the salt between 4000-4500.
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There's defiantly something brewing here because 4500 is a bit high by most standards. Are you sure the cell is clean and as per pool math with SWG how are the numbers including your CSI.
 
wireform said:
There's defiantly something brewing here because 4500 is a bit high by most standards. Are you sure the cell is clean and as per pool math with SWG how are the numbers including your CSI.
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Currently, my FC is high because I added liquid chlorine last night.

FC 7
Ph 7.6
Alk 90
Ch 130
CYA 70
Salt should be at 4200-(haven’t checked yet since I just added last night)
CSI -0.1

Pool passes OCLT and water is crystal clear. Pic of salt cell is attached.
 

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The operating range and ideal level of salt varies between SWG models often even with a common manufacturer. Circupool's chart shows the SJs wanting 3500+ and the RJs showing a range of 2800-4500. My understanding is the middle of a given range is the best place to operate. I bought and installed a RJ30 in February. Early on I ran it with a salinity of about 3400-3600 although it's been as high as 4000 (measured with Taylor kit). The SWG read-out tends to show salinity 200-400 less than actual salinity and I think that's what counts relative to if the unit will run or show a low salt condition. The summer rains have diluted the water and at times the salinity as shown on the SWG has dropped to about 2900. I have yet to see a low salt warning and the SWG seems to have run fine over the range it's seen. I've added about 60# of salt over the last month or so to keep the salinity above 2900 as measured by the SWG. I have noticed that the drive current is higher at the higher salt concentrations so I suspect the output is also higher then. I prefer running on the low end of salinity so the taste isn't as obvious and I'm thinking the lower drive current may cause less long-term damage to the cell and/or electronics. Time will tell. I bought the RJ over the SJ partly because it required less salinity.
 
Fuldo said:
The operating range and ideal level of salt varies between SWG models often even with a common manufacturer. Circupool's chart shows the SJs wanting 3500+ and the RJs showing a range of 2800-4500. My understanding is the middle of a given range is the best place to operate. I bought and installed a RJ30 in February. Early on I ran it with a salinity of about 3400-3600 although it's been as high as 4000 (measured with Taylor kit). The SWG read-out tends to show salinity 200-400 less than actual salinity and I think that's what counts relative to if the unit will run or show a low salt condition. The summer rains have diluted the water and at times the salinity as shown on the SWG has dropped to about 2900. I have yet to see a low salt warning and the SWG seems to have run fine over the range it's seen. I've added about 60# of salt over the last month or so to keep the salinity above 2900 as measured by the SWG. I have noticed that the drive current is higher at the higher salt concentrations so I suspect the output is also higher then. I prefer running on the low end of salinity so the taste isn't as obvious and I'm thinking the lower drive current may cause less long-term damage to the cell and/or electronics. Time will tell. I bought the RJ over the SJ partly because it required less salinity.
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I wish I would have bought the RJ for that very same reason. We were leery of changing to salt because of potential damage to equipment and our concrete pool deck. Now I have the SJ that doesn’t produce unless I’m at 4200! The water is definitely salty and worried about damage from salt that high.
 
lmnconn said:
I wish I would have bought the RJ for that very same reason. We were leery of changing to salt because of potential damage to equipment and our concrete pool deck. Now I have the SJ that doesn’t produce unless I’m at 4200! The water is definitely salty and worried about damage from salt that high.
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based on data from manufacturers you would be able to run lower salinity with hayward. 2800-3500. I saw a video on you tube where they say newer Swg may function at lower salt concentration (1500) which is better for equipment etc.. don’t know if that’s true but that’s why I was wondering about the difference between Hayward and CircuPool.
 

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Diego168 said:
based on data from manufacturers you would be able to run lower salinity with hayward. 2800-3500. I saw a video on you tube where they say newer Swg may function at lower salt concentration (1500) which is better for equipment etc.. don’t know if that’s true but that’s why I was wondering about the difference between Hayward and CircuPool.
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Hayward makes a low salt system but it is only available in Canada. Here is a link to a discussion: Hayward Low Salt
 
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Yeah only problem for me with aquarite is the warranty only 60 days of you install it your self. I was told by a retailer. I know people say they installed it everything work great and im
Confident I can install it however defects among the best manufacturers can happen.
Also when looking at the owners manual I didn’t see anything under the warranty saying that if you DIY it then you only get 60 days warranty. So who knows
 
Diego168 said:
Yeah only problem for me with aquarite is the warranty only 60 days of you install it your self. I was told by a retailer. I know people say they installed it everything work great and im
Confident I can install it however defects among the best manufacturers can happen.
Also when looking at the owners manual I didn’t see anything under the warranty saying that if you DIY it then you only get 60 days warranty. So who knows
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If you think the aquarite would serve your needs it would be worth a call to Hayward Pool Products for a definitive answer. The retailer may or may not be correct.
 
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I called Hayward and they said that if you install your self you would still get a 3 year warranty.
So now i need to decide either rj45 $879. Or aqr15 for 970 of eBay or pools unlimited 940.
Replacement cells are similar price.
 
You only get new Pentair electronics if you order the full kit. I just replaced only my cell this year because everything else was still working.
 
Diego168 said:
Doesn’t the Pentair cell come with some of the electronics ???
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Correct. A replacement cell has all controls in it. The power center is not replaced.

The Pentair IC cells are more expensive to replace. So there is a minus to having the controls integrated into the cell.
 
mknauss said:
Correct. A replacement cell has all controls in it. The power center is not replaced.

The Pentair IC cells are more expensive to replace. So there is a minus to having the controls integrated into the cell.
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Yes that’s what I mean. That’s something I like about this system. And the cell is maybe 100-200 more that other systems.
You have this system correct ? Do you know if the cell can be mounted vertical?
How long does your cells usually last you?
I’ve seen a lot of post from you. Which system do you see that gives less problems ?
 

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