SWG Journal
I'm an hour late. Wanted to do this at 7:00 when my SWG first came on. But it doesn't matter, as the SWG wasn't active:
ScreenLogic Chlorinator page reported:
Pool Output: 60%
Salt Level: 0
So I went out to check, and the flow light was red (at 1400RPM).
Up'ed it to 1500RPM and got a green flow light. So now I know where my threshold it.
After a minute or two the alternating red-green salt lights turned solid green. I have SWG!
So now ScreenLogic Chlorinator page reports:
Pool Output: 60%
Salt Level: 2950.

I did a full suite, to set my baseline:
FC: 6.5
PH: 7.7
TA: 80
CH: 340
CYA: 70
Salt: 3000
CSI: -0.26
RPM: 1500
GPM: 21
TEMP: 64
Gotta say, I'm pretty proud of those numbers! And I'm quite happy that the salt test and the SWG are within 50ppm on the salt reading (today, anyway)! The Chlorinator page is indicating salt level just at the low end of the green "optimum" range, which is
exactly where I wanted it to be, allowing "room to grow" in terms of the IC40's Optimum Salt Level (according to the ScreenLogic interface). So yay on my numbers!!
I had hoped to be able to run my RPMs a bit lower. 1500RPM is 174Watts. I thought I've read others here were successful at 1200RPMs or less. But I checked, the IC40 manual states minimum flow rate is 25GPM. My FlowVis is reporting 21GPM, so I guess I should be OK with that. I have this going on:
Not counting the solar check valve, I have two check valves in my filtering system. The FlowVis, between the pump and filter, and a second check right before the SWG, messing up the desired straight run before the SWG's flow switch. I thought maybe this is compromising the flow, and flow switch, and that moving or removing it would help with the minimum RPM.
Anyone know if I could do without this second check valve? It was always there, even before FlowVis and SWG. Does the FlowVis, in its current position, replace the need for that second check? Or is it common/necessary to have a check right before you return to the pool? The pool water level is lower than the pad, by around 4" or so (pad is pretty much level with the coping). So I don't understand what that check is doing.
Or I could be happy that my SWG flow is green running 4GPM lower than the stated minimum. Since this is solar season, and the solar RPMs are quite a bit higher, I won't really be running all that often at 1500RPM anyway (more often at 2200). So I won't see all that much energy savings this time of year by trying to lower my solar-off-RPMs. But running at 1200RPM when solar is off, or outside of solar season, would have been cool.
Here's the other issue. The knucklehead that installed the SWG (same moron that burned my plaster), couldn't have left me a couple inches of PVC! Sorry in advance to all the pool pros here, but this is why I am so anti-pool-professionals, battling since day one this kind of inexcusable numbskullery! Uhg.
Unless anybody out there thinks I could get down to 1200RPM by moving or removing that second check valve, I'll likely leave this alone...