Great thanks! Yes, I ran the backwash for 3 min then rinsed for 2. What a difference!
First time slammer, checking in
- Thread starter Mdhkdh
- Start date
Congratulations on the backwash! Did you repeat the backwash/rinse or just do each once?
Do you plan on going in the pool anytime soon? If so, collect a sample of the debris, without hurting the liner. Pour onto something white. See if it smears or is grainy like sand or just blurs grey/brown.
I predict it is dead algae settling or blown in dirty-type debris collecting in the low spots that isn't anything to worry about, but can't guarantee it. At this point, IF you meet all three SLAM Process ending criteria, (including another Overnight Chlorine Loss Test) I see no reason to continue your SLAM unless you see any green/yellow anywhere or if the debris you sample smears yellow/green.
The other, less desirable option, would be that your sand filter has a slightly damaged lateral and is blowing a small amount of sand filter sand into the pool and the circulation has it settling there. Only ways to confirm that are if you can detect it blowing from the return jet or getting a sample from the bottom and investigating. It isn't the end of the world as long as it is a small amount.
Overall, you've done an outstanding job and your previous TFP understanding has clearly helped you cruise through this first SLAM with flying colors.
Any questions, observations, or curiosities?
Do you plan on going in the pool anytime soon? If so, collect a sample of the debris, without hurting the liner. Pour onto something white. See if it smears or is grainy like sand or just blurs grey/brown.
I predict it is dead algae settling or blown in dirty-type debris collecting in the low spots that isn't anything to worry about, but can't guarantee it. At this point, IF you meet all three SLAM Process ending criteria, (including another Overnight Chlorine Loss Test) I see no reason to continue your SLAM unless you see any green/yellow anywhere or if the debris you sample smears yellow/green.
The other, less desirable option, would be that your sand filter has a slightly damaged lateral and is blowing a small amount of sand filter sand into the pool and the circulation has it settling there. Only ways to confirm that are if you can detect it blowing from the return jet or getting a sample from the bottom and investigating. It isn't the end of the world as long as it is a small amount.
Overall, you've done an outstanding job and your previous TFP understanding has clearly helped you cruise through this first SLAM with flying colors.
Any questions, observations, or curiosities?
Sorry in advance for the long post!!
1) I decided to run all the tests this eve and will now ask, is it too early for that?
FC 19
CC .5
CYA 60 (add stabilizer to bring to 80?)
TA 140 (turned blue at 10 drops, pink at 14)
pH 7.8
Salt 3600
2) Brown spots are getting fewer and I'm still brushing... any merit to either of these products below to help with water clarity and future prevention?
3) water level is high from rain to the point above return and I can tell bugs, dirt, etc are not getting into the skimmer. Do I need to backwash to lower water level or wait for evaporation to take its course?
Ok I think that's it for now... here are my pool pics for today!
Thank you!!! Have a great evening.
1) I decided to run all the tests this eve and will now ask, is it too early for that?
FC 19
CC .5
CYA 60 (add stabilizer to bring to 80?)
TA 140 (turned blue at 10 drops, pink at 14)
pH 7.8
Salt 3600
2) Brown spots are getting fewer and I'm still brushing... any merit to either of these products below to help with water clarity and future prevention?
3) water level is high from rain to the point above return and I can tell bugs, dirt, etc are not getting into the skimmer. Do I need to backwash to lower water level or wait for evaporation to take its course?
Ok I think that's it for now... here are my pool pics for today!
Thank you!!! Have a great evening.
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You have your SWCG off right now right?
PH is invalid when chlorine is over 10
Definitely not the algaecide, The "regular" clarifier will also interfere at this stage of SLAM Process, The only thing needed is a can of
op: (Pool Owner Patience) it's hard too "see", but the liquid chlorine WILL clear up the water with adequate filtration! Just keep checking FC and bumping up to SLAM level, the more often you can do that, the faster the SLAM Process process can go =)You can go ahead and backwash
splashpad gave solid advice, I'll just add:
Reminder that on all color changing tests, the endpoint isn't when the color completely changes, it is when one more drop doesn't make the color change any deeper or clearer, then you don't count that last drop that did nothing.
Backwashing prematurely can actually slow the clearing of the white/grey haze. As the sand filter captures debris, the water's path through the sand gets narrower, capturing even smaller debris than the clean sand itself. In general, I discourage backwashing prematurely for this reason, but there is no harm in backwashing early if you wish - and I'll be the first to admit I've lowered water level with an unnecessary backwash. Another option would simply be to lower the water by running the pump on waste, or vac to waste which is what I usually do if I have time.
Clarifiers sound great, don't they? Unfortunately, it has been the collective experience of TFP members that they can cause more problems than they solve. Clarifiers get caught in the filter if there are particles in the water to consolidate, which includes dead algae.
Algaecides come in many different recipes - in certain circumstances, we do like certain ones, but during a SLAM isn't one of them. Specifically, algaecides that are concentrated 60% Polyquat (without copper or anything else you don't want) seem to produce the best results for our users. Even the glorious Polyquat, like almost everything else, gets slowly oxidized by chlorine - which we have high due to algae - so it would be rapidly destroyed and wasted. Even when we do suggest it to someone, it has to be replenished weekly to maintain a reasonable level since roughly one-third breaks down each week. Most algaecides are also clarifiers (again, sounds great, right?) but that also means your filter will have the privilege of collecting it.
In your situation, given that you're holding FC quite well and making progress, if you want to accelerate the final clarifying process - adding cellulose fiber (CF) or Diatomaceous Earth (DE) to the sand filter would be the top choice. Works virtually every time, and only rarely do we hit someone who has it blow out the return jet and require letting it settle and vac. If you have health, environmental, or backwash concerns with the DE, the CF would be the better option, though the DE is the most popular option with far more threads for your to see the countless successful results and occasional problem threads and how they were resolved.
CYA of 60 is great for now and will fall slightly with each backwash. After your water is clear and you don't need to backwash for a while, test and increase to 70 or 80.
If you wish, you can let FC fall under 10 to test and adjust PH, just to make sure it is 7.2-7.8, the raise FC again.
Reminder that on all color changing tests, the endpoint isn't when the color completely changes, it is when one more drop doesn't make the color change any deeper or clearer, then you don't count that last drop that did nothing.
Backwashing prematurely can actually slow the clearing of the white/grey haze. As the sand filter captures debris, the water's path through the sand gets narrower, capturing even smaller debris than the clean sand itself. In general, I discourage backwashing prematurely for this reason, but there is no harm in backwashing early if you wish - and I'll be the first to admit I've lowered water level with an unnecessary backwash. Another option would simply be to lower the water by running the pump on waste, or vac to waste which is what I usually do if I have time.
Clarifiers sound great, don't they? Unfortunately, it has been the collective experience of TFP members that they can cause more problems than they solve. Clarifiers get caught in the filter if there are particles in the water to consolidate, which includes dead algae.
Algaecides come in many different recipes - in certain circumstances, we do like certain ones, but during a SLAM isn't one of them. Specifically, algaecides that are concentrated 60% Polyquat (without copper or anything else you don't want) seem to produce the best results for our users. Even the glorious Polyquat, like almost everything else, gets slowly oxidized by chlorine - which we have high due to algae - so it would be rapidly destroyed and wasted. Even when we do suggest it to someone, it has to be replenished weekly to maintain a reasonable level since roughly one-third breaks down each week. Most algaecides are also clarifiers (again, sounds great, right?) but that also means your filter will have the privilege of collecting it.
In your situation, given that you're holding FC quite well and making progress, if you want to accelerate the final clarifying process - adding cellulose fiber (CF) or Diatomaceous Earth (DE) to the sand filter would be the top choice. Works virtually every time, and only rarely do we hit someone who has it blow out the return jet and require letting it settle and vac. If you have health, environmental, or backwash concerns with the DE, the CF would be the better option, though the DE is the most popular option with far more threads for your to see the countless successful results and occasional problem threads and how they were resolved.
CYA of 60 is great for now and will fall slightly with each backwash. After your water is clear and you don't need to backwash for a while, test and increase to 70 or 80.
If you wish, you can let FC fall under 10 to test and adjust PH, just to make sure it is 7.2-7.8, the raise FC again.
OK great -- I'm so ready to get back to normal testing and maintenance but definitely want to do it the right way.
My SWG is off and has been for the majority of the SLAM process.
I have stopped bringing FC back to SLAM level since I believe all live algae to be gone and am just trying to get back to vivid clarity (especially so my wife will be convinced it's "safe" to swim)
My FC this AM is 16. That is down from 19 at 6:30pm last night. (Note: I did the 10ml line last eve, but the 5ml line this AM ... not sure if that matters as far as a variance or not, but still trying to conserve drops unless that is a problem).
I will hold off doing another backwash for now. I will let the filter and brushing and Rover do their thing until Friday, at which point I will seriously consider adding DE or CF over the weekend for a final push!
Can't say thanks enough to both of you and TFP as a whole for the time invested in getting this first-timer back in the water!!
My SWG is off and has been for the majority of the SLAM process.
I have stopped bringing FC back to SLAM level since I believe all live algae to be gone and am just trying to get back to vivid clarity (especially so my wife will be convinced it's "safe" to swim)
My FC this AM is 16. That is down from 19 at 6:30pm last night. (Note: I did the 10ml line last eve, but the 5ml line this AM ... not sure if that matters as far as a variance or not, but still trying to conserve drops unless that is a problem).
I will hold off doing another backwash for now. I will let the filter and brushing and Rover do their thing until Friday, at which point I will seriously consider adding DE or CF over the weekend for a final push!
Can't say thanks enough to both of you and TFP as a whole for the time invested in getting this first-timer back in the water!!
Dropping the FC will not speed up clearing the water (it will have the opposite effect).
Make sure to reference [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]:
~) With your CYA/60
- you should be holding FC as near to 26 as you can, until ALL three (3) SLAM Process criteria are passed
- ANY FC reading under 26 (and over 5-7) is safe to swim! (As long as you can see IN the water)
This forum is so great! I love the information and readiness of the members to guide & share the information available! And of course all the success stories (you'll be one too
)! Those are so encouraging!I did pass the OCLT a couple days ago, CC was at 0.5 and water is relatively clear, which is why I stopped the SLAM.
If water isn't clear, then SLAM Process isn't finished
- - - Updated - - -
For reference =)
How clear is 'crystal clear'?
I've been pretty consistent in posting pics of the water to show improvement, and I think the last pics I posted yesterday show clear water. If I had to put a % on it relative to "perfect" I would say 75-80%. If I need to resume SLAM I will, but I sure hope I'm past that after 2 weeks!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Just for what the forum calls "TFP crystal clear", the water vividly sparkles! =)
Hi, Md! Here’s the kind of clear you are striving for. We just want to make sure that once you stop the SLAM, you never have to start it again!
And as an added bit of confidence... your results will not vary.
Possible & Likely you have never seen your pool as clear as it is going to be.
Keep it up, you are almost there.
Possible & Likely you have never seen your pool as clear as it is going to be.
Keep it up, you are almost there.
Good morning and happy memorial weekend to all! Thanks to all our service members and their families!!
I'm hoping today is this last day of my looooong SLAM. No overnight loss and I'd say I'm at 95% clarity with just a few remaining brown spots which to you can see below. I'll continue to top off today and brush while finishing the deck!
I'm hoping today is this last day of my looooong SLAM. No overnight loss and I'd say I'm at 95% clarity with just a few remaining brown spots which to you can see below. I'll continue to top off today and brush while finishing the deck!
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Mendy48
Bronze Supporter
Congratulations....Awesome. Love to see stories like this. Water looks crystal clear. A Job Well Done. Now you can start working on the deck. Looks like a fun project to me.....Great Job again. You definitely practiced P.O.P (Pool Owner Patience) during this process. With my first SLAM, I had to run laps just to release the stress. LOL.
Now you can start working on the deck. Looks like a fun project to me.....Great Job again. You definitely practiced P.O.P (Pool Owner Patience) during this process. With my first SLAM, I had to run laps just to release the stress. LOL.
Well folks I believe I can now say with much jubilation... SLAM COMPLETE!!! Going to do one more OCLT tonight and in the AM just for good measure and peace of mind!!
And back to deck work in between rain storms! About 90% on that project!
Thanks to everyone's help and encouragement in this SLAM process which I must say took longer than expected but then again I am, or WAS, a newbie!!
Special gratitude to Yakima for all the time spent coaching me through!!
Happy Memorial weekend to all.
And back to deck work in between rain storms! About 90% on that project!
Thanks to everyone's help and encouragement in this SLAM process which I must say took longer than expected but then again I am, or WAS, a newbie!!
Special gratitude to Yakima for all the time spent coaching me through!!
Happy Memorial weekend to all.
