10ml sample
One drop of 0630
Add drops of 0718 until the milky yellow goes brick read. Each drop is 200 ppm.
The smart stir is everyone's friend for this test.
Dig day july 20th
- Thread starter whiskers
- Start date
One drop of 0630
Add drops of 0718 until the milky yellow goes brick read. Each drop is 200 ppm.
The smart stir is everyone's friend for this test.
I finally did find the instructions for the salt test.
We had a big dust storm come through here. The whole bottom of the pool was covered in dirt. Took me two days to clear it out. First day was with the Rebel auto side suction cleaner. The second day was with the manual vacuum. It looks back to normal now. Anything I need to watch out for when I get a lot of dirt in the pool? Is it okay to test the water right after cleaning the dirt out? I did run all the water tests again after I cleaned the pool. Here are my numbers.
FC .05 I added 63 oz of bleach.
CC 0
Ph 8.2 I added 12 oz of MA
TA 60
CH 250 Pool Math is telling me to add 26 lbs. of calcium chloride to get to my target 0f 450. Should I do that? That amount seems like a lot to me.
CYA went up to 80.
Salt 2200.
Water temp. 45 degrees
CSI is showing -0.29
Do I really need to do salt tests? When the SWG gets hooked up again when the water warms up wont the SWG keep track of the salt?
We had a big dust storm come through here. The whole bottom of the pool was covered in dirt. Took me two days to clear it out. First day was with the Rebel auto side suction cleaner. The second day was with the manual vacuum. It looks back to normal now. Anything I need to watch out for when I get a lot of dirt in the pool? Is it okay to test the water right after cleaning the dirt out? I did run all the water tests again after I cleaned the pool. Here are my numbers.
FC .05 I added 63 oz of bleach.
CC 0
Ph 8.2 I added 12 oz of MA
TA 60
CH 250 Pool Math is telling me to add 26 lbs. of calcium chloride to get to my target 0f 450. Should I do that? That amount seems like a lot to me.
CYA went up to 80.
Salt 2200.
Water temp. 45 degrees
CSI is showing -0.29
Do I really need to do salt tests? When the SWG gets hooked up again when the water warms up wont the SWG keep track of the salt?
Looks like Walmart has liquid chlorine back in stock. This is the best price I have seen. Am I reading the dates correctly?
292 day of year 2023.
281 day of year 2023.
292 day of year 2023.
281 day of year 2023.
October 8th.
3 months old is as far as you want to push it when possible, but at least this time of year you know it wasn't baking in the 110 degree sun in the parking lot for a week before it made it to the shelf.
First day of the SWG working. Pool was completed in December. I replaced the SWG with a dummy cell until the water finally was warm enough. I wanted to post a picture of it working with the lights. Is this how the lights should be when everything is working normal?
So if the bottom light is solid green, the cell will turn on 20% of the time of its cycle. When producing the 'cell' light is solid green and you'll see it come on/off if you wait around long enough.
Let's get to know the cell. The lights that are off are self explanatory. The % lights can go a few ways.
Press the down button and the bottom lights will flash for 10%, keep pressing down and it'll flash 2, 4, 6, or 8%. Then press up until you're solid lights again using the bottom #s.
Then hold up and down and they'll flash left to right. That's producing 100% of the time for the next 24 hours, at which point it will revert back to wherever it was before. It's handy if you're a little low but still free and clear above min. It's also handy for parties to not have to remember to turn it down tomorrow. I'd hit mine the evening before a party and start a little high. If it was a good enough party, I'd hit it after also.
Press up and down again to go back to normal. Now you know those lights at a glance.
Pretty soon daily FC loss is going to noticeably increase and you'll test less FC. You will adjust the % up, or the runtime longer at the same %. Yours is easy to math, it'll produce about .5 FC an hour on. If you are 1 FC lower than you'd like, you need 2 hours on, or any equivalent maths.... 4 hours at 50%..... etc.
Aim to match the higher loss days of that point in the season and accept it'll over produce on the other days. If you turn it down because of some cloudy days, you'll have to turn it right back up soon. You can drive yourself mad if you micro manage it. If FC is a 12, that's 'above minimum" and you're sitting pretty.
Let's get to know the cell. The lights that are off are self explanatory. The % lights can go a few ways.
Press the down button and the bottom lights will flash for 10%, keep pressing down and it'll flash 2, 4, 6, or 8%. Then press up until you're solid lights again using the bottom #s.
Then hold up and down and they'll flash left to right. That's producing 100% of the time for the next 24 hours, at which point it will revert back to wherever it was before. It's handy if you're a little low but still free and clear above min. It's also handy for parties to not have to remember to turn it down tomorrow. I'd hit mine the evening before a party and start a little high. If it was a good enough party, I'd hit it after also.
Press up and down again to go back to normal. Now you know those lights at a glance.
Pretty soon daily FC loss is going to noticeably increase and you'll test less FC. You will adjust the % up, or the runtime longer at the same %. Yours is easy to math, it'll produce about .5 FC an hour on. If you are 1 FC lower than you'd like, you need 2 hours on, or any equivalent maths.... 4 hours at 50%..... etc.
Aim to match the higher loss days of that point in the season and accept it'll over produce on the other days. If you turn it down because of some cloudy days, you'll have to turn it right back up soon. You can drive yourself mad if you micro manage it. If FC is a 12, that's 'above minimum" and you're sitting pretty.
The last two days I have noticed little specks of what looks like a brown rust color on the steps and the floor of the pool. Here are the things that have changed in the past week. We had a company install a canopy over the pool. We also turned on the heater for the first time ever and ran it for a couple of hours. Also we reconnected the SWG . I did see a hex nut in the pump basket a couple days after the canopy was installed. Also the SWG has been producing too much chlorine. I have dialed back the percent on the SWG and the run time on the pump to slow down the chlorine.
Here are my novice thoughts. 1- The hex nut made these stains. 2- It was using the heater for the first time. 3- Too much chlorine.
I rubbed a vitamin C tablet on one of the specks and the speck disappeared.
Can anyone tell me what these specks could be and the best way to clean them?
Here are some pictures and my latest test results.
FC 9
PH 7.8
TA 70
CH 300
CYA 50
SALT 3200
WATER TEMP 60
CSI -0.29
Here are my novice thoughts. 1- The hex nut made these stains. 2- It was using the heater for the first time. 3- Too much chlorine.
I rubbed a vitamin C tablet on one of the specks and the speck disappeared.
Can anyone tell me what these specks could be and the best way to clean them?
Here are some pictures and my latest test results.
FC 9
PH 7.8
TA 70
CH 300
CYA 50
SALT 3200
WATER TEMP 60
CSI -0.29
My guess? I bet they had to do some drilling to install that. In doing so some of the shavings ended up in the pool and caused those rust spots.
I would give the pool a good vacuuming to get up any pieces still in there. I would read this link and follow it:
www.troublefreepool.com
Ascorbic Acid Treatment - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
markdpratt
Gold Supporter
- Dec 24, 2020
- 115
- Pool Size
- 14650
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
For iron stain spot removal, you may want to consider something like the following. I had similar “iron filings” that got in my pool and this device and vitamin C powder did a good job of removing the stains. Good luck.I would give the pool a good vacuuming to get up any pieces still in there. I would read this link and follow it:
Ascorbic Acid Treatment - Further Reading
I will work on the stains as soon as the water warms up.
I have a question on testing my water. My latest numbers are
Ph 8.0
TA 60
CH 325
CYA 60
CSI -.20
Should I shoot for ?
PH 8.0
TA 70
CH 400
CYA 60
CSI -.01
Also is there a way to change and keep the target on the Pool Math app the same number without it automatically changing back? I would like the targets to be a little different and stay that way. Thanks
I have a question on testing my water. My latest numbers are
Ph 8.0
TA 60
CH 325
CYA 60
CSI -.20
Should I shoot for ?
PH 8.0
TA 70
CH 400
CYA 60
CSI -.01
Also is there a way to change and keep the target on the Pool Math app the same number without it automatically changing back? I would like the targets to be a little different and stay that way. Thanks
Questions on using Pentair master Temp 250k 460732 heater.
First time today being in the pool. Water temp was 62 degrees at 8 am today, turned on the heater at that time. Got in the pool 8 hours later at 4 pm. Water temp was 75 degrees. Is the 8 hours to raise the water temp 13 degrees normal? If we want to swim in April with the air temperature in the low 90's, do we need to run the heater longer? Here in El Paso Tx, it was a high of 90 degrees and a low of 60. The pool is 34ft x 15ft 3ft-5ft deep 14,000 gallons. We do have a 24ft x 24ft canopy over the pool. The pump was running at 70%.
Our gas meter is 250k. The PB said we might need a bigger gas meter. If we get a bigger gas meter will this speed up the time to heat the pool? Is it worth it to heat the pool that many hours to swim in April or should we wait until we get into summer? First time having a pool and just trying to see how often we need to use the heater.
First time today being in the pool. Water temp was 62 degrees at 8 am today, turned on the heater at that time. Got in the pool 8 hours later at 4 pm. Water temp was 75 degrees. Is the 8 hours to raise the water temp 13 degrees normal? If we want to swim in April with the air temperature in the low 90's, do we need to run the heater longer? Here in El Paso Tx, it was a high of 90 degrees and a low of 60. The pool is 34ft x 15ft 3ft-5ft deep 14,000 gallons. We do have a 24ft x 24ft canopy over the pool. The pump was running at 70%.
Our gas meter is 250k. The PB said we might need a bigger gas meter. If we get a bigger gas meter will this speed up the time to heat the pool? Is it worth it to heat the pool that many hours to swim in April or should we wait until we get into summer? First time having a pool and just trying to see how often we need to use the heater.
I’m no expert, but a few observations. A couple degrees per hour seems about right but I’m sure you could buy a bigger heater and get a bigger gas meter and heat it quicker. It’s kind of like a race car - how fast you want to go depends on how much money you want to spend. Second, have your pump at 100%. You need to push as much water per hour through the heater as possible. Canopy over the pool? Might want to retract that and let the sun do some work. May want to consider a solar cover.
Whether it’s worth it for you to heat it up to swim in April is up to you and your pocket book. I live in the north and heat my pool pretty late into fall. There have been times when I heated up the pool for a one day swim (birthday party) which cost around $50 - $100. Still pretty cheap for a good party with family.
Whether it’s worth it for you to heat it up to swim in April is up to you and your pocket book. I live in the north and heat my pool pretty late into fall. There have been times when I heated up the pool for a one day swim (birthday party) which cost around $50 - $100. Still pretty cheap for a good party with family.
Thank you for your reply. I guess I should have bought the 400k heater instead of the 250k. It is a new pool with all new equipment, so I think I will stay with the 250k heater for now. I will look into getting a bigger gas meter. I think here the gas company charges about $85 for the switch. Next time I will run the pump at 100%.
If your gas supply isn’t at its limit getting a bigger meter isn’t going to do anything. You should evaluate your supply vs max use and see if it would matter.
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