10ml sampleI am not sure how to do those tests. @Newdude any help?
One drop of 0630
Add drops of 0718 until the milky yellow goes brick read. Each drop is 200 ppm.
The smart stir is everyone's friend for this test.
10ml sampleI am not sure how to do those tests. @Newdude any help?
October 8th.281 day of year 2023.
Thank you.So if the bottom light is solid green, the cell will turn on 20% of the time of its cycle. When producing the 'cell' light is solid green and you'll see it come on/off if you wait around long enough.
Let's get to know the cell. The lights that are off are self explanatory. The % lights can go a few ways.
Press the down button and the bottom lights will flash for 10%, keep pressing down and it'll flash 2, 4, 6, or 8%. Then press up until you're solid lights again using the bottom #s.
Then hold up and down and they'll flash left to right. That's producing 100% of the time for the next 24 hours, at which point it will revert back to wherever it was before. It's handy if you're a little low but still free and clear above min. It's also handy for parties to not have to remember to turn it down tomorrow. I'd hit mine the evening before a party and start a little high. If it was a good enough party, I'd hit it after also.
Press up and down again to go back to normal. Now you know those lights at a glance.
Pretty soon daily FC loss is going to noticeably increase and you'll test less FC. You will adjust the % up, or the runtime longer at the same %. Yours is easy to math, it'll produce about .5 FC an hour on. If you are 1 FC lower than you'd like, you need 2 hours on, or any equivalent maths.... 4 hours at 50%..... etc.
Aim to match the higher loss days of that point in the season and accept it'll over produce on the other days. If you turn it down because of some cloudy days, you'll have to turn it right back up soon. You can drive yourself mad if you micro manage it. If FC is a 12, that's 'above minimum" and you're sitting pretty.
I think you are correct. What can I do to get rid of them?My guess? I bet they had to do some drilling to install that. In doing so some of the shavings ended up in the pool and caused those rust spots.
For iron stain spot removal, you may want to consider something like the following. I had similar “iron filings” that got in my pool and this device and vitamin C powder did a good job of removing the stains. Good luck.I would give the pool a good vacuuming to get up any pieces still in there. I would read this link and follow it:
Ascorbic Acid Treatment - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Thank you for your reply. I guess I should have bought the 400k heater instead of the 250k. It is a new pool with all new equipment, so I think I will stay with the 250k heater for now. I will look into getting a bigger gas meter. I think here the gas company charges about $85 for the switch. Next time I will run the pump at 100%.I’m no expert, but a few observations. A couple degrees per hour seems about right but I’m sure you could buy a bigger heater and get a bigger gas meter and heat it quicker. It’s kind of like a race car - how fast you want to go depends on how much money you want to spend. Second, have your pump at 100%. You need to push as much water per hour through the heater as possible. Canopy over the pool? Might want to retract that and let the sun do some work. May want to consider a solar cover.
Whether it’s worth it for you to heat it up to swim in April is up to you and your pocket book. I live in the north and heat my pool pretty late into fall. There have been times when I heated up the pool for a one day swim (birthday party) which cost around $50 - $100. Still pretty cheap for a good party with family.
Good advice. Will do, thanksIf your gas supply isn’t at its limit getting a bigger meter isn’t going to do anything. You should evaluate your supply vs max use and see if it would matter.