Chemical Disaster -

[JamesW]

You did have a lot of calcium carbonate precipitate in the water.

So, it could have dissolved and raised the TA.

Let's verify the TA and the CSI.

How does the water look now?

Is all of the precipitation gone?

 

[LimaBeans]

Verify that you are doing the test correctly.

Make sure that the amount of water is correct and make sure that you are using the correct multiplier for the amount of water.

Maybe post the steps you are using so that we can verify.

Post all tests when you get a chance.

The R-0007 and R-0009 are substantially smaller droplets than the R-0008. Is that normal?
We test both the old and new kit 2x and got the same results.
The old test was 6-7 drops.

 

[LimaBeans]

You did have a lot of calcium carbonate precipitate in the water.

So, it could have dissolved and raised the TA.

Let's verify the TA and the CSI.

How does the water look now?

The water is clear.

Is all of the precipitation gone?

The precipitation is gone to the naked eye.

 

[JamesW]

I'm not sure why the difference.

What are you getting for all of the other tests?

Can you show a picture or video of the drop size?

 

[mknauss]

The R-0007 and R-0009 are substantially smaller droplets than the R-0008.

• Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wipping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.

 

[LimaBeans]

The R-0007 and R-0009 are substantially smaller droplets than the R-0008. Is that normal?
We test both the old and new kit 2x and got the same results.
The old test was 6-7 drops.
View attachment 319550

Chlorine is at 0.5 and Combined Chlorine 0

pH 7.5

Calcium Hardness - stopped droplets at 45 and never turned blue. 1,125 PPM when we stopped

CYA - 100

 

[LimaBeans]

• Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wipping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.

We followed the directions on the card that came with the set and did that.

 

[JamesW]

The pH looks ok.

The calcium test is probably being compromised by copper, which will interfere with the test.

At this point, I would begin draining and refilling at the same time to reduce the CYA and copper levels.

If you have a dry well around the pool, check the ground water.

You don't want to drain too much water out because the pool can float if the ground water is high.

To be safe, I would refill and drain at the same rate until the CYA is about 50 ppm.

 

[LimaBeans]

I'm not sure why the difference.

What are you getting for all of the other tests?

Can you show a picture or video of the drop size?

The pH looks ok.

The calcium test is probably being compromised by copper, which will interfere with the test.

At this point, I would begin draining and refilling at the same time to reduce the CYA and copper levels.

If you have a dry well around the pool, check the ground water.

You don't want to drain too much water out because the pool can float if the ground water is high.

To be safe, I would refill and drain at the same rate until the CYA is about 50 ppm.

What are your thoughts about the 3 different numbers we got on the TF100 test for TA
&
A 4th number using our old test?

 

[JamesW]

Do you have a picture or video of the drops so that we can see the size?

Some drops come out too big and some come out too small.

Sometimes this happens when the bottle is new and the drops become more normal after a few tests.

Any time that I get a result that I am not completely sure about, I get a different test to double check.

You can try a different bottle of reagent or use a standard solution to verify that the test is correct.

Standard Solutions

tftestkits.net

 

[magiteck]

The first few times I did the TA test I had the static issue with small drops pretty bad, even with wiping the tip. In hindsight it was pretty apparent the drops were smaller than most other drops. If the drops look small, I’d assume your actual TA is lower.

My first few test I was getting like 200ppm. When the static settled my real number was like 90.

If your TA really is super elevated, your pH will rise quickly. You’ll use acid to lower the pH and that will bring the TA down as well. No sense stressing over the actual TA value unless it’s too low (which it’s clearly not).

 

[LimaBeans]

Do you have a picture or video of the drops so that we can see the size?
I have a video but it will not allow me to upload it.

Some drops come out too big and some come out too small.

Sometimes this happens when the bottle is new and the drops become more normal after a few tests.

Any time that I get a result that I am not completely sure about, I get a different test to double check.

You can try a different bottle of reagent or use a standard solution to verify that the test is correct.

Standard Solutions

tftestkits.net

 

[JamesW]

Can you post it on YouTube and link?

 

[JamesW]

See if these videos help.

Make sure that you are holding the bottle vertically and squeezing it slowly so that the drop gets full size before falling off.

Don't squeeze too hard. Go slow and swirl continuously.

 

[Sunnydaze]

I found the smart stir helps test TA more than other tests. It's a good investment, I think.

 

[LimaBeans]

It looks much more clear. We are still working on getting the settlement that is at the bottom. When we sweep or use the robot it spins it up and resettles.

The pH looks ok.

The calcium test is probably being compromised by copper, which will interfere with the test.

At this point, I would begin draining and refilling at the same time to reduce the CYA and copper levels.

If you have a dry well around the pool, check the ground water.

You don't want to drain too much water out because the pool can float if the ground water is high.

To be safe, I would refill and drain at the same rate until the CYA is about 50 ppm.

Ok, so we drained the pool half way. The water out flows substantially faster than the water flowing in. I think we are still OK and the shell has enough water that it will not float. We have a well point next to the pool and we could not see any water in it. If you zoom in on the first picture you can see the discoloration on the shell even from below the water line. I am assuming that is caused by the chemical imbalance and will correct itself once we get it all right.
Currently we have to hose in the water but it is going to take some time to fill it back up.
Do we need to test along the way?
If so, what tests?
Do we need to add chemicals along the way?
If so, what chemicals?

I hope I am being a good student but man, this has been a painful process.

 

[JamesW]

I would just make sure that the chlorine is good for now and then test for everything once it is full and fully circulated.

 

[LimaBeans]

I would just make sure that the chlorine is good for now and then test for everything once it is full and fully circulated.

Ok, do I need to test the current water to determine the amount of Chlorine to add?

 

[JamesW]

Yes, check the fc and adjust as needed.

 

[newdude]

Ok, do I need to test the current water to determine the amount of Chlorine to add?

Yes and no. You have to kind of think on the fly. Your current water has chlorine in it so it should test relatively fine. But the 50% that you’re adding will only have a little in the tap water. So over the course of the fill you will need to add about 1 qt to treat the new water. Add 2 cups at around 70% full and again around 85% full. Once you are totally full run the whole set of tests and go from there.