AquaLink RS, Pool Service Can't Figure it Out

[ajw22]

This is what I suspect is confusing us and what the mysterious box is that your pool guy was talking about...

Your SOLAR function is set to run CLEANER but you don't have a cleaner. You have a Jandy ePump which is variable speed. I suspect CLEANER is referring to a set speed on the VS ePump which increases the pump speed to improve the skimming and clean the pool.

The Aqualink has two types of indoor control panels. The ALL BUTTON which you have, and the ONE TOUCH. The ALL BUTTON control panel is an older interface that cannot directly control the speeds of the Jandy ePump . With the ONE TOUCH control panel or the iAqualink wireless controls you have additional programming features you need with the ePump.

I think the prior owner was not willing to upgrade the indoor control when he got the VS ePUMP to the ONE TOUCH or iAqualink.

I am guessing someone plugged in a ONE TOUCH panel to set things up and then removed it. So from what you have we can't see everything or modify it.

You really need to upgrade to the ONE TOUCH indoor panel or the iAqualink wireless app controls to get full control over your Jandy equipment.

 

[HermanTX]

You really need to upgrade to the ONE TOUCH indoor panel or the iAqualink wireless app controls to get full control over your Jandy equipment.

@paddy0furniture
as a point of reference, I recently purchased the iQ30-RS which includes a new PCB + the 3.0 Antenna which provides wireless access to PC or phone app via iAquaLink. Total cost with installation was just under $1600. Had to pay for installation because had to purchase from an authorized dealer.
Jandy also provides just the antenna - iQ30-A. This will connect to that 4 pin RED comm port on the PCB. I saw it on eBay for around $600 for just the antenna. Need to verify that it is new. There is also the older iQ20-A antenna however, the 3.0 version has improved wireless functionality and able to connect to mesh routers that give off both 2.4ghz and 5.0ghz. Your antenna needs the 2.4ghz signal.
Looking at your existing PCB, it appears to be the right version and can accept the antenna. This is an easy DIY install and there are videos on youtube as well.
You would need to CLEAR the memory on the current PCB to start fresh as Allen suggested.
Hope this provides you some options.

 

[PoolGate]

@paddy0furniture
as a point of reference, I recently purchased the iQ30-RS which includes a new PCB + the 3.0 Antenna which provides wireless access to PC or phone app via iAquaLink. Total cost with installation was just under $1600. Had to pay for installation because had to purchase from an authorized dealer.
Jandy also provides just the antenna - iQ30-A. This will connect to that 4 pin RED comm port on the PCB. I saw it on eBay for around $600 for just the antenna. Need to verify that it is new. There is also the older iQ20-A antenna however, the 3.0 version has improved wireless functionality and able to connect to mesh routers that give off both 2.4ghz and 5.0ghz. Your antenna needs the 2.4ghz signal.
Looking at your existing PCB, it appears to be the right version and can accept the antenna. This is an easy DIY install and there are videos on youtube as well.
You would need to CLEAR the memory on the current PCB to start fresh as Allen suggested.
Hope this provides you some options.

Do you still have your old 2.0 antenna? That is really all he needs perhaps you guys could work out a deal? Here is a new one on ebay. NEW Zodiac iAquaLink 2.0 IQ20-A Network Interface Module 52337065535 | eBay

For sure you need to get the WiFi antenna it will open a whole new world. You'll be able to easily program that entire system from any web browser. Here is a picture of the programming screen you'll use once installed.

 

[HermanTX]

Do you still have your old 2.0 antenna? That is really all he needs perhaps you guys could work out a deal?

I do not have the 2.0 antenna. My old system was a PDA wireless system (the original version). The antenna only talks with the PDA. It does not do access to internet. My PCB was old as well as it would not accept the 2.0 or the 3.0 antenna. That is why I had to upgrade both the PCB and the antenna.

 

[HermanTX]

@PoolGate & @paddy0furniture
I was reviewing some documentation and I see that the Jandy ePump (which I think is what is installed) requires its own set of dip switches to be set. I don't have and ePump so this is just based on what I am reading.
See the pictures below I found in one of the Aqualink Manuals. I was thinking maybe that is why the pump cannot be programed to the existing wall unit in that it was not set up to address it. Just a thought and others with more knowledge may have the answer. However, if you wish to have internet access then the 2.0 or 3.0 iAquaLink antenna is required.

 

[ajw22]

@PoolGate & @paddy0furniture
I was reviewing some documentation and I see that the Jandy ePump (which I think is what is installed) requires its own set of dip switches to be set. I don't have and ePump so this is just based on what I am reading.
See the pictures below I found in one of the Aqualink Manuals. I was thinking maybe that is why the pump cannot be programed to the existing wall unit in that it was not set up to address it. Just a thought and others with more knowledge may have the answer. However, if you wish to have internet access then the 2.0 or 3.0 iAquaLink antenna is required.
View attachment 372667View attachment 372668

Don't go fooling with the ePump dip switches. That is not the problem.

The Jandy All Button control panel is a 30 year old user interface with a hard coded menu tree as you can see in post #27 and the Aqualink manual. You will find no references to pump speeds in the menu tree.

Jandy never updated the All Button control panel to include knowledge of VS pumps. Instead they came out with the ONE TOUCH control panel and eventually iAqualink.

 

[paddy0furniture]

You need FILTER PUMP on and HEATER POOL on to start the heater.

Your heater is starting at 9AM since your FILTER PUMP begins running. But I don't know what is turning on HEATER POOL.

See what LEDs are on after 9AM.

Only FILTER PUMP was lit at 9AM, heat did not come on

 

[ajw22]

Only FILTER PUMP was lit at 9AM, heat did not come on

What do you have your pool temp set to versus actual water temp? You lowered it last night?

 

[paddy0furniture]

What do you have your pool temp set to versus actual water temp? You lowered it last night?

I lowered it to 50, no chance it'll ever get that low here.

 

[paddy0furniture]

I am guessing someone plugged in a ONE TOUCH panel to set things up and then removed it. So from what you have we can't see everything or modify it.

You really need to upgrade to the ONE TOUCH indoor panel or the iAqualink wireless app controls to get full control over your Jandy equipment.

Thanks very much for this, it makes a lot of sense. I'm going to ask my guy tomorrow what part he thinks I need to get things working the way I'd like and report back.

 

[ajw22]

Great. You know your Aqualink system better now then when we started this conversation.

 

[Packrat1]

I have the exact same system with the exception of 4 more relays thus RS8 vs RS4 not sure if you already have it but here’s the factory owners manual for your system https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-controls-all-button.pdf
Additionally here is the listing for the exploded diagram for parts for the RS4 through RS8 all button control

Digital Publications

I just had mine repaired so got a lot of part numbers for the future. There is a good post titled No Power to control panel- Aqualink RS that proved quite helpful to me. Hope this helps.

 

[Packrat1]

Have you considered just moving the existing Aqualink panel inside the house? Sure it would be wired but might be a cheaper option. I put mine on the kitchen wall next to the pool side sliding door. Just a thought anyway.

 

[paddy0furniture]

Have you considered just moving the existing Aqualink panel inside the house? Sure it would be wired but might be a cheaper option. I put mine on the kitchen wall next to the pool side sliding door. Just a thought anyway.

It's just outside next to the sliding door next to the kitchen, it's pretty convenient where it is now with the kids wanting to switch the water feature on & off constantly while they're swimming.

 

[ps0303]

Do yourself a favor and get rid of the old indoor panel and use the new antenna, download the app to your phone and control everything that way. That is the best way to know exactly what is going on in your system.

 

[paddy0furniture]

Do yourself a favor and get rid of the old indoor panel and use the new antenna, download the app to your phone and control everything that way. That is the best way to know exactly what is going on in your system.

I want to. System is working as I want right now, so I'm not in a rush. I also am not 100% clear what equipment is needed. Is it the antenna, or the ONE TOUCH panel? I think what ajw22 said could very well be correct, but without knowing more about the system from the pool guy I shouldn't be buying anything.

 

[ps0303]

I want to. System is working as I want right now, so I'm not in a rush. I also am not 100% clear what equipment is needed. Is it the antenna, or the ONE TOUCH panel? I think what ajw22 said could very well be correct, but without knowing more about the system from the pool guy I shouldn't be buying anything.

One touch panels are obsolete as the industry now uses the wifi options. Your board looked to be a rev.T, boards need to be a rev. S or higher, which the 3.0 antenna will work with. That is all you would need.

 

[paddy0furniture]

That's an RS4 P&S looks like Rev T which is fairly current. Do you have a WiFi antenna anywhere? If not, you could get one for a couple hundred and have your system online. You could access it via a web browser, phone app and Alexa. I believe all you need is the antenna.

If it is indeed rev T as the pic shows, getting this & installing would get me current?

 

[PoolGate]

If it is indeed rev T as the pic shows, getting this & installing would get me current?

No. To get you current requires the entire IQ/20/30-RS which includes a new PCB board like the below. Pool automation is in the dark ages. Aqualink does not have downloadable upgrades they are all hardware based. But the good news is there isn't much that has changed in 20 years. I would just get the WiFi 2.0 antenna only and call it a day.

 

[PoolGate]

I want to. System is working as I want right now, so I'm not in a rush. I also am not 100% clear what equipment is needed. Is it the antenna, or the ONE TOUCH panel? I think what ajw22 said could very well be correct, but without knowing more about the system from the pool guy I shouldn't be buying anything.

We know what you need. You need the WiFi 2.0 antenna and nothing else. That gives you smartphone and web interfaces.