Just researched the Pinch A Penny brand, called Salinity. Appears they put the one in that does inhibit stains, however, I did not have a problem that first week when they put their salt in. Was when the pool service put theirs in. Will have to follow up with that on monday, as I can't find a working site on their vender, Allied.
Afraid Of My Pool
- Thread starter beachglass
- Start date
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,640
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Salt takes a while to mix in. It makes sense it was the last bag, but it might not be. It might have taken a while for the culprit to mix in and get to you, so theoretically it could have been the Salinity brand. That's assuming it was from any bag of salt. And you're also assuming the ingredient giving you trouble is an intended one. It could just as easily be something that slipped in, inadvertently, during any stage of the product's manufacturing process, including the harvesting of the salt.
You can exchange water without lowering the water level. It's done much as you describe. But you'd never be able to completely remove what's already in your pool. It'd be constantly mixing in with the new water. You could definitely dilute what's in there, and over some amount of time and exchanges you'd have very little of the original water remaining, but you'd never get rid of all of it. So if that fix was to work, it'd be because your exposure was reduced by dilution (which is what Allen was getting at).
The age of the filter is not at issue. Whatever is in your water has now passed through your filter, and it might be trapped there. If you just replace water, it could get "reinfected" by the filter. Replacing the cartridges reduces that possibility.
We are virtually searching for a needle in a haystack, without knowing what the needle looks like, or which haystack it's in! Yikes.
You can exchange water without lowering the water level. It's done much as you describe. But you'd never be able to completely remove what's already in your pool. It'd be constantly mixing in with the new water. You could definitely dilute what's in there, and over some amount of time and exchanges you'd have very little of the original water remaining, but you'd never get rid of all of it. So if that fix was to work, it'd be because your exposure was reduced by dilution (which is what Allen was getting at).
The age of the filter is not at issue. Whatever is in your water has now passed through your filter, and it might be trapped there. If you just replace water, it could get "reinfected" by the filter. Replacing the cartridges reduces that possibility.
We are virtually searching for a needle in a haystack, without knowing what the needle looks like, or which haystack it's in! Yikes.
Allergic reactions work on a ppm basis. I don’t think you will need to drain every last drop of water from your pool to overcome this if it is the salt.
Thanks for the heads up on the salt possibly containing shellfish. Prawns are one of my two allergies (well to be technical it’s the sulphites that are sprayed on them once they hit the boat).
I think you need to rule out the obvious first. What is different about your pool to others that you swim in? As pp said, did you have the heater running? Do you have any overhanging trees or pollen in the pool? Did you shave your legs immediately before jumping in the pool? Apply sunscreen? Does anyone swim in your pool that may have added contaminants (babies, kids, dogs in particular)? Have you had any debris in your pool from the pipes? We had a ton of concrete and plaster gradually make its way out in huge chunks over time. Also, you don’t take regular allergy medication do you for hay fever or similar? If you have taken any before getting in other pools or your pool before the suspicious salt addition, this would mask any reaction for up to 3 days.
It’s good that your cc is 0 but I wonder if it was also zero when you’ve had your reactions? It can change very quickly. Out of curiosities sake with your water at 0 cc now can you put your hand into the pool just up to your wrist? See if you are still reacting.
Since true allergies often get worse on each exposure I don’t recommend using yourself as a guinea pig. The mock set up of your pool water is a good idea but I don’t think you should get in a bathtub of the stuff to start with. Maybe in a bucket or sink, mix everything your pool would have in it to the correct levels, then stick your arm into it. Obviously the vessel needs to be clean and free of anything allergenic first. If you manage this ok, then you could do the same in the bathtub.
It would be really interesting to have your water tested thoroughly. I think this would be worth doing.
Keep us posted. I’m really confident you can get to the bottom of this. It just going to take some detective work. Any pool you swim in, including your own, keep a detailed journal of every and any variable. Maybe a friend will let you take a water sample of their pool water that you don’t react to. You could send that off also to be tested for comparison.
Thanks for the heads up on the salt possibly containing shellfish. Prawns are one of my two allergies (well to be technical it’s the sulphites that are sprayed on them once they hit the boat).
I think you need to rule out the obvious first. What is different about your pool to others that you swim in? As pp said, did you have the heater running? Do you have any overhanging trees or pollen in the pool? Did you shave your legs immediately before jumping in the pool? Apply sunscreen? Does anyone swim in your pool that may have added contaminants (babies, kids, dogs in particular)? Have you had any debris in your pool from the pipes? We had a ton of concrete and plaster gradually make its way out in huge chunks over time. Also, you don’t take regular allergy medication do you for hay fever or similar? If you have taken any before getting in other pools or your pool before the suspicious salt addition, this would mask any reaction for up to 3 days.
It’s good that your cc is 0 but I wonder if it was also zero when you’ve had your reactions? It can change very quickly. Out of curiosities sake with your water at 0 cc now can you put your hand into the pool just up to your wrist? See if you are still reacting.
Since true allergies often get worse on each exposure I don’t recommend using yourself as a guinea pig. The mock set up of your pool water is a good idea but I don’t think you should get in a bathtub of the stuff to start with. Maybe in a bucket or sink, mix everything your pool would have in it to the correct levels, then stick your arm into it. Obviously the vessel needs to be clean and free of anything allergenic first. If you manage this ok, then you could do the same in the bathtub.
It would be really interesting to have your water tested thoroughly. I think this would be worth doing.
Keep us posted. I’m really confident you can get to the bottom of this. It just going to take some detective work. Any pool you swim in, including your own, keep a detailed journal of every and any variable. Maybe a friend will let you take a water sample of their pool water that you don’t react to. You could send that off also to be tested for comparison.
You wouldn't even need a tub to test out the salt. You could just fill a bucket with chlorinated water and stick your arm in there. Add salt until you get a reaction, so you could see if it is a certain salt level that creates the effect. You could also test the different type of salt to see if that is the culprit.
Verygood idea on replacing the filter, I was thinking that yesterday. If there was a something in there, it might be continuing to pass through the filter. We are going to have to go with the dilution method as we are petrified to drain this whole pool. If our salt is still reading 1200 then it is still in there. When we first diluted the pool when we converted back to the chlorine after realizing this problem. Our salt was at 3000. Took us a week, but got it down to 1300 figuring that would do it. In the beginning we weren't sure what was causing the problem. Our CYA was over 100. So our goal at that time was to reduce the CYA, wasnt even thinking salt as the culprit. Pinch a Penny told us we just needed to get 1/2 the salt out and should be fine to proceed with chlorine pool. So we went from around 2700ppm to 1100 and reduced the CYA to around 40. Obviously the CYA was not the issue. So now we need to continue this process I would assume to get as much as this salt out of the pool.
I think you are on the right track.........dilute it until almost all of the salt is gone. Then rebalance the water using this chart: Pool School - Recommended Levels Here is a link to what we use to move our levels. You will notice most of it can be bought at Walmart or Target! Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Run a full test EXCEPT for CYA on your fill water so we can be ready to tell you what to buy to get ready.
Once most of the salt is gone and the water is balanced I would do a SLAM as seen here: Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain I would like to see you SLAM for 72 hours (3 days) just to make sure that water is a good as it can get.
How does this feel?
Kim
Run a full test EXCEPT for CYA on your fill water so we can be ready to tell you what to buy to get ready.
Once most of the salt is gone and the water is balanced I would do a SLAM as seen here: Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain I would like to see you SLAM for 72 hours (3 days) just to make sure that water is a good as it can get.
How does this feel?
Kim
This is very interesting. I know that I am allergic to any meds with sulfur in them, so I wonder if that would be the same if I came in contact with it. I will check with the allergist on Wednesday. If the salt had sulfates in it, would that be the key.
The heater does run, not always. I have been in the pool several times with and without the heat on and same reaction.
It is a screened in lanai. No trees overhanging, no pollen right now.
Actually tried that experiment with and without shaving legs and no difference. Also have on my hands and arms and dont shave them.
Did not use sunscreen as was leary that would aggravate it.
My Mom was visiting from mid June to the July 3rd. She did have her yorkie in the pool. Rash did not start until first week of August after the conversion. Pool was chlorinated, so would think if anything from dog would have been killed, plus we have already diluted the pool twice and shocked several times.
Checked the angle on the meds. I only take one and have confirmed with pharmacy and two Drs. that no reaction should have come from that.
According to the pinch a penny reports which we were backing up from the pool service company, our cc has remained at -0- since the beginning.
We plan on having the water tested, just not sure the best place to do this. Any suggestions.
I do like the idea of testing with a bucket of water once we go through this whole process of draining more water. As stated earlier we were in the Keys a few weeks ago. I was in a salt water pool for three days with no issues. That is what got me thinking, it wasn't just the salt water pool, it was the type of salt that went in.
I actually read a story yesterday about a family that searched for 4 1/2 years to figure out what was causing rashes on 2 of the 4 people in the household swimming in the pool. They resurfaced the pool, filled, balanced etc. Rash continued, drained again etc etc. Turns out it was the ladder, which was made of fiberglass was getting into the pool water. Go figure. We do not have a ladder, wishing I did right now and that was the answer.
- - - Updated - - -
We like this plan. Just wondering do you think we should still go about and have the water tested to see if it is something else before doing this process or just go ahead and do this. We are having a hard time finding a lab to test to the pool water.
The heater does run, not always. I have been in the pool several times with and without the heat on and same reaction.
It is a screened in lanai. No trees overhanging, no pollen right now.
Actually tried that experiment with and without shaving legs and no difference. Also have on my hands and arms and dont shave them.
Did not use sunscreen as was leary that would aggravate it.
My Mom was visiting from mid June to the July 3rd. She did have her yorkie in the pool. Rash did not start until first week of August after the conversion. Pool was chlorinated, so would think if anything from dog would have been killed, plus we have already diluted the pool twice and shocked several times.
Checked the angle on the meds. I only take one and have confirmed with pharmacy and two Drs. that no reaction should have come from that.
According to the pinch a penny reports which we were backing up from the pool service company, our cc has remained at -0- since the beginning.
We plan on having the water tested, just not sure the best place to do this. Any suggestions.
I do like the idea of testing with a bucket of water once we go through this whole process of draining more water. As stated earlier we were in the Keys a few weeks ago. I was in a salt water pool for three days with no issues. That is what got me thinking, it wasn't just the salt water pool, it was the type of salt that went in.
I actually read a story yesterday about a family that searched for 4 1/2 years to figure out what was causing rashes on 2 of the 4 people in the household swimming in the pool. They resurfaced the pool, filled, balanced etc. Rash continued, drained again etc etc. Turns out it was the ladder, which was made of fiberglass was getting into the pool water. Go figure. We do not have a ladder, wishing I did right now and that was the answer.
- - - Updated - - -
We like this plan. Just wondering do you think we should still go about and have the water tested to see if it is something else before doing this process or just go ahead and do this. We are having a hard time finding a lab to test to the pool water.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,687
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I say do the water exchange as that is what you will end up doing in the end no matter what a water test lab says so...................save time and money THEN go from there. I gut is screaming about the time of the new salt and the reaction. I have learned to listen to the my gut. It is up to you if you want to listen to my gut 
- May 3, 2014
- 62,687
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You can exchange some water without draining.
If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.
The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.
Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.
The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.
Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
No. Liquid MA
- - - Updated - - -
This is exactly what we did the two other times, time to repeat the process. We were thinking should we also scrub the sides and floor and let it settle before beginning the process. The pool service company said that the salt could adhere to the sides of the pool water and we need to get it off. Make any sense?
- - - Updated - - -
This is exactly what we did the two other times, time to repeat the process. We were thinking should we also scrub the sides and floor and let it settle before beginning the process. The pool service company said that the salt could adhere to the sides of the pool water and we need to get it off. Make any sense?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,687
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No. Salt stays in solution. The process I posted keeps the pool full of water all the time. Are you sure you did that the prior times?
Your water looks pretty good to me for a cloudy day. Sulphites (sulfites), elemental sulphur and sulphate are different. The latter two are typically not an issue. I’m sure the allergist will have some experience with people reacting to pool water. Just confirming that you don’t take any allergy/hay fever medication? It really does sound like the salt. Everything else seems pretty much ruled out. You don’t tip your discarded test solution back in the pool? Didn’t pressure clean the area around the pool? Just trying to think of every bizarre, but possible other cause. It would be very helpful if you could find out the brand of salt that was used.
The first time we drained down and then filled. It was only around 6 inches. The second time, we kept the sump pump in the deep end and added new water at the steps.
Why is it important to keep the water level the same during the process.? Very interested in this.
- - - Updated - - -
Wanted to clarify on that second time.. We were using the sump pump at the deep end removing the water and adding the new water at the steps at the same time. Both were going at the same time.
Why is it important to keep the water level the same during the process.? Very interested in this.
- - - Updated - - -
Wanted to clarify on that second time.. We were using the sump pump at the deep end removing the water and adding the new water at the steps at the same time. Both were going at the same time.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,687
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you have a concern for the pool 'popping' keeping the water level the same prevents this. Also you want the transition between the old water and new water to be quiet, no movement. That keeps the segregation more stable.
I did my water exchange two days ago. I achieved a complete exchange with about 5% excess water needed. But my salinity was 3500 ppm and CH was 1000 ppm.
I did my water exchange two days ago. I achieved a complete exchange with about 5% excess water needed. But my salinity was 3500 ppm and CH was 1000 ppm.
Yes, I plan on asking him that.
Funny you should mention the test solution, as the pool service used to do this. We knew nothing about pools at the time so didn't think anything of it. When we bought our own Taylor system, asked my husband not to do this, since we did not know what was causing the issue. It has not been dumped in the water for about a month. Let me add, the pool service was doing this from Feb until August and no issues. Rash started first week in August. Crazy to think pool service companies do this, huh
- - - Updated - - -
Gotcha. Quiet water. Pray
- - - Updated - - -
Oops, hit the button to quickly. Gotcha on this. Will keep the water as still as possible. So no scrubbing or disturbance prior to and after doing this "Transfusion"
- - - Updated - - -
Forgot to answer that one question. I do not take any allergy meds.
- - - Updated - - -
How long should we expect this process to take? We should just keep testing the salt level?We were bringing it to Pinch a Penny the last time to test the salt level during that last transfusion. Is there a test we can buy to test the salt level ourselves? The pool service had left us some strips, but they do not seem to work very well.
Funny you should mention the test solution, as the pool service used to do this. We knew nothing about pools at the time so didn't think anything of it. When we bought our own Taylor system, asked my husband not to do this, since we did not know what was causing the issue. It has not been dumped in the water for about a month. Let me add, the pool service was doing this from Feb until August and no issues. Rash started first week in August. Crazy to think pool service companies do this, huh
- - - Updated - - -
Gotcha. Quiet water. Pray
- - - Updated - - -
Oops, hit the button to quickly. Gotcha on this. Will keep the water as still as possible. So no scrubbing or disturbance prior to and after doing this "Transfusion"
- - - Updated - - -
Forgot to answer that one question. I do not take any allergy meds.
- - - Updated - - -
How long should we expect this process to take? We should just keep testing the salt level?We were bringing it to Pinch a Penny the last time to test the salt level during that last transfusion. Is there a test we can buy to test the salt level ourselves? The pool service had left us some strips, but they do not seem to work very well.