16' x 30' Flat Kidney Owner Build

[Jimrahbe]

1122,

Most VS pumps get wired to constant AC voltage, but it is not a requirement. You can, if you want, run your SuperFlo VST and your SWCG off the same timer.

You just have to set the pump to run 24/7, so that whenever the power comes on, the pump will run, but of course it will only run when the timer is applying power to the pump.

Another option is to connect the pump to constant AC power and let the pump actually run 24/7. In essence this makes the flow switch the secondary safety device. This is what I do, as I like making a little chlorine all the time and skimming all the time. I have a 3 HP IntelliFlo pump and for me to run 24/7 at 1200 RPM, most of the time, costs me less than $20 bucks a month.

The main reason we harp on connecting VS pumps to constant power, is that when you have an automation system, and the power to the pump is removed, it will report loss of power failure notifications. This is not an issue, if you don't have an automation system.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[dleonard1122]

Leaving your salt system connected to 2 and 4 means the salt system will be controlled by the timer.

In this situation where would you have the SWCG? On the load side of a mechanical switch (just for the ability to not make chlorine but still run the pump for whatever reason) or do you skip the switch all together and have everything connected to constant power?

 

[Jimrahbe]

1122

You only want the cell to get AC power if the pump is supposed to be running..

If you set up the timer to control both the pump and the cell, then they both get connected to the load side of the timer.

If you want the pump to get constant AC power, then the pump will be connected to the Line side of the timer, and the cell gets connected to the Load side of the timer.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[dleonard1122]

I think I found a typo in the IC40 Manual.

In the table of contents under Section 3 and Initial startup procedure it lists a heading on page 15 'Use of an external timer is not required'

Then, on page 15 there's a big heading 'IMPORTANT! Use of an external Pool Pump Timer is Required!'

And then it goes on to explain that the timer isn't really required because you can dial in the run-time of the SWG on the device itself.

My current plan is to wire the VST pump off of the line side of an intermatic mechanical switch, and then the SWG off of the load side. I'll run the pump 24/7 at a low setting, and then initially try to dial in the SWG by using the sanitizing output settings. If for whatever reason I need to cut power to the SWG but leave the pump running I'll be able to do so with the mechanical switch.

 

[dleonard1122]

After discussing options in Controlling Intellichlor IC40 with a Pentair Superflo VST? (the help was much appreciated @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta @ajw22 @Jimrahbe) the only change to the above diagram I'll be making is that I'll be wiring the 240v pump off of the line side terminals and not the load side. The Superflo VST needs continuous power, so I'll plan on running it 24/7 at a low RPM during the pool season.

Then I can set the IC40 SWG to a low setting to continually produce chlorine, and I'll have the timer available to turn off power to the SWG if needed.

 

[dleonard1122]

Submitted my permit paperwork yesterday and had the inspector out to check out the new panel in the shed. The inspection went fine as expected, but I'll be honestly surprised if my permits get approved on the first try for the pool. This is my first time ever filling out permits so I'm certain I missed something or something is shown incorrectly.

 

[jimmythegreek]

It's just a money grab here in NJ....just play the game and provide what they ask. Every town is different and some get extreme, your list is on the high side of asks by the township. Just keep in mind a DIY build will be scrutinized compared to a builders job so cross your Ts on everything. Kidneys are PIA to build the floor takes extra time and the coping is brutal on cuts

 

[dleonard1122]

Kidneys are PIA to build the floor takes extra time and the coping is brutal on cuts

I'm slowly figuring that out. I've got a guy coming today or tomorrow to give me a quote on the pool base and the pavers. Depending on the price I may go that route. The bullnose pavers coping is what I'm dreading most, so if I can just find a guy to handle all of those cuts and mortaring everything in place I think I could live with handling the rest.

 

[dleonard1122]

Today was a good day! We took delivery of the pool equipment and also got our permits approved. We are allowed to break ground and really start the process.




The pool takes up 75% of a 2-car garage. A lot of that is the 60 bags of pool base I bought though. A lot of those bags ripped unfortunately so I may need to find a local source for it. In hindsight, I probably should have done that from the start but when we were ordering everything it was too convenient to just include that with everything else. Shipping was free thankfully.

 

[jimmythegreek]

Juat make sure anyone you hire does it right. There's only one way otherwise you will be doing it over down the road. Look up ICPI for guidance or the manufacturers installation requirements. For the coping you need a concrete collar to do a long lasting install.

Where in NJ are you

 

[dleonard1122]

Where in NJ are you

Down south just outside of Philly, Gloucester County.

 

[dleonard1122]

Went through and inventoried everything we received for the pool kit. I think I got everything except for the plastic braces that go on either side of the steps. I contacted the distributer and they're going to send out new ones.

Additionally, I think we've settled on the week of June 13th-17th to break ground (weather permitting of course.) The excavation sub should be coming out soon to give everything another once over and go over the plans.

 

[dleonard1122]

I'm getting ready to order a few last minute items for plumbing and electrical and wondering if someone can sanity check me.

All of the suction side plumbing will be done with 2" PVC, and then after my return manifold I'll use the diverted valves to reduce to 1.5" for the return lines.

I want (6) Jandy 4724 2-way diverter valves
- 1 for main drains, 1 for each of two skimmers, and then 1 for each of three returns
- Jandy 2-Way Never Lube Valve, 1.5" - 2"

I want (1) Jandy 4715 3-way valve to plumb before the filter as a way to easily drain water
- Jandy 3-Way Never Lube Valve, 1.5" - 2"

I need 3 sets of unions for my pump, filter, and SWG. *(Do unions come with any of the equipment?)
- I see this one recommended for the Pentair pumps. Can I also use it for the filter and SWG?
https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Hi-Temp-Union-Whisperflo-Intelliflo/dp/B00AKMV4K8/ref=sr_1_1?th=1#
It looks like Pentair sells a union specifically for the intellichlor, necessary or can I use the above?
- Pentair Intellichlor Cell Unions Set of 2

I need an Intermatic T104R 240v timer
- https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T104R-Electromechanical-208-277-Cycles/dp/B00099EGNE?th=1#

I need a Siemens 2 pole 20A GFCI CB
- https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-QF220A-Ground-Circuit-Interrupter/dp/B01HQGLX06/ref=sr_1_1?crid=FLILP5AIVXY1&keywords=siemens+2+pole+20A+GFCI+breaker&qid=1653998199&sprefix=siemens+2+pole+20a+gfci+breaker,aps,57&sr=8-1&th=1

 

[dleonard1122]

Apologies, but paging @ajw22 or @Jimrahbe to comment on the above shopping list when time allows

 

[ajw22]

Unions come with the Intellichlor cell.

The CMP unions are correct for the Pentair pump.

Some filters come with unions and others don't. Depends on the model.

 

[dleonard1122]

Unions come with the Intellichlor cell.

The CMP unions are correct for the Pentair pump.

Some filters come with unions and others don't. Depends on the model.

Much appreciated, thanks!

 

[jimmythegreek]

Anywhere you are using 2" piping on both sides use the larger valve the 2 x 2.5. Much better flow as the smaller valves glue to the outside they choke flow. The smaller is good for reducing out of a manifold that's how I do them

 

[dleonard1122]

I mocked up a 16' x 30' rectangle to start to really nail down exact location but most importantly the final height I want the pool deck to be. You can see we have a pretty decent slope to contend with so getting all of the slopes and existing patio to line up is going to be tricky (and in reality, the final product is going to be imperfect.) There's no way for me to get a nice 1/4" per foot slope from my shed down to the pool, up 2" to keep water from running into the pool, and then back down to the patio. I'd need a retaining wall or a step or something along those lines which frankly I don't want to do.

So my plan is to just do my best with what I've got and be happy, acknowledging that I'm not a professional and I'm not paying for perfect. The final pool deck height will be roughly 4" below the green string line shown in the photos, and the entire pool is getting pushed back away from the house an additional 5' to give me some more room to make up the height differences.

From the shed I plan to slope down at a pretty steep rate until 3' before the pool, and then back up 2" from there to the pool to prevent surface water flowing into the pool. I can deal with the excessively steep slopes on this side since most people wont be walking there. From there, obviously the pool deck will be flat across, until I get to the other side where I'll need to slope down to the existing patio. It's going to feel a little hilly underfoot, but I think that will work with our backyard design which is obviously set on a hill. I'll need to make sure I at least have a section at the top of the pool deck that does remain relatively flat for some lounge chairs (most likely in the kidney bean indentation).

I had my excavator sub out yesterday to look everything over and he didn't seem concerned with the plan. We set a break-ground date of Saturday, June 25th (weather permitting), which works out well because we can hopefully dig that weekend and then I'll take off the following week of work to hopefully get the walls up and bond beam poured.

I also ordered all of the aforementioned last minute items (taking into account @ajw22 and @jimmythegreek advice), and returned my IC20 SWG cell for the IC40.

 

[jimmythegreek]

Honestly I would spend some time w a transit or laser level and stake grade sticks. Your eyes will lie to you. I get your willing to deal whatever ends up but setting grade is the most crucial step. Pick a benchmark to use as zero elevation and figure out whata needed. A small 1 or 2 block tall wall is simple and makes a world of difference at times. You can't change pool height later......but you can add a wall later

 

[jonnyd91]

Honestly I would spend some time w a transit or laser level and stake grade sticks. Your eyes will lie to you. I get your willing to deal whatever ends up but setting grade is the most crucial step. Pick a benchmark to use as zero elevation and figure out whata needed. A small 1 or 2 block tall wall is simple and makes a world of difference at times. You can't change pool height later......but you can add a wall later

Yeah, im surprised they didn't need the height for the permits to go through. I had to hire an engineer to create a survey with all the elevations and submit it to the town before they could dig.
Last thing you want to do it put the pool in too deep and have water issues outside of it.

When they finally dug my pool i was kinda freaked out because the stakes were 9" above ground in the front and 17" above ground in the back. So it looked like the pool was really high out of the ground.
It wasn't until it was backfilled and graded that I said OK now i get why it was so high.

See below how far my pool stuck out