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I'm really curious to know what size transformer you have and if you have snubbers installed?

Something we've found that has helped is to ensure you have AT LEAST a 300W transformer. I know how to do the math, but some builders install the "cheaper" 100W transformers. Another inexpensive thing that you could do is to put snubbers on your lights. Hayward # GLX-HAL-XSNUB.

Sounds like your internet browser didn't "download" the right file type into your USB. The USB updates are tricky. I use Firefox for everything, BUT I have to install the update into my USB using Chrome because Firefox doesn't get the right file in there. The reason you can't click on it is...

I have all Hayward lights and equipment and I use the CMP lighted bubbler, with the Hayward "light show option". It's not perfect, but close.

No, you can't put more than 3 smart relays on a Omni Hub. It won't recognize more than 3.

If they indeed used the 120V Color Logic 4.0 lights, then no they will not stay synced. The 4.0 lights are 120V and the 320 light is 12V. FYI, the Universal Color Logic lights come in 12V AND they can replace the 4.0 light, no matter what size they used. If this is a new build, that is the fix.

I would suspect that is an "IO" code, which points to a possible bad ignitor.

Those burner orrifices are famous for plugging up when not used regularly. You can even buy new burner tubes if they're damaged beyond cleaning/repair.

I've had trouble getting the Omni to recognize the correct file format as well and my "go to" is to download using Chrome. I've tried other browsers and I'm not sure why, but Chrome seems to work every time and the others almost always give me issues. If your Omni isn't recognizing the file...

We did this project in early 2018 and charged $10k for the cover system, but that's with the lid made from brick and VERY custom cover box area. If I had to price one now, that's inline with our usual auto covers, I'd charge about $8k. Right now, for a 16' X 40' pool with encapsulated track, we...

Here are a few pics of a spa we did an auto cover on. It's a lot of work and it's hard to make it work well consistently, mainly because there's just less room everywhere.

It's available, although this current landscape of COVID and China materials shortage may be affecting "his" availability. We've been having a hard time getting parts/components for ALL manufacturer's.

You can build paver cover lid with any pavers, but not every builder can. It's difficult to make it look good AND be strong enough to be safe. I'd suggest talking in depth with your builder about the lid, cover, lead bar, etc. Talking through now can prevent any issues that can't be avoided...

For a normal pool cover, we make the box 14" wide and 16" deep (along with the appropriate length of course). This gives us a little wiggle room for fitment issues. For most spa's and the placement/sizing of the box, we are limited to just 12" (or so) and 14" deep (or so) while still installing...

We only do Coverstar. If it's a rectangle pool, we only use the track/encapsulation that goes between the pool and coping. Yes, we use Coverstar's "spa" cover system and it is more compact, but with that comes space constraints, which means time added to the install. The system is $1000's...

Man, we're not charging enough for auto covers! Just to help some on these, it's the "little things" that increase the cost of these covers so much. We also do Coverstar, but there are 4 different cover lids you can install and they range from very little $ (standard hinged aluminum lid) to very...

I would think Ebay is your best bet to get rid of that.

The VS runs the same software as the Omni Logic and should operate the same, but there are a few instances where it can't. The salt system is one for sure, I'm assuming you have the Aquarite with the daughter board setup inside the VS. I have the same Omni VS Pump that you do, btw. I was excited...

Do you have the full Omni Logic controller, or just the VS Omni controller?

I'm in the same boat as everyone else, I just can't justify buying the Ledge Loungers for the price AND I OWN A POOL STORE! There is another option from S.R. Smith though, just a little less "fit and finish" though and the price difference isn't all that much. Lounger

I'll be completely honest in that I don't remember how that seal is setup. It's been that long since we've installed them. Your pictures are an interesting setup, for sure. We hard pipe (conduit) all of our lights, regardless of voltage. Not saying this is the only way to do things though.

Your cover obviously has two ropes and replacing one rope with another "kind" of rope that stretches more (or less) will give you some serious headaches keeping the cover running straight. Also, whenever we replace ropes, we ALWAYS look for the root cause of what broke the rope in the first...

Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but are you saying that your pool builder made YOU clean up your pool after install? There isn't a world that I could imagine this would be something that actually happens. Either way, we use trash pumps to pump out both dirt and water straight to the street, yard...

What you're describing sounds correct, a small tab at 6 and the screw that holds the light in at 12. If I'm not understanding correctly, a picture would be very helpful.

We've only installed a handful of these CMP lights and when we have, we've installed without the "extra" coil of cord so you won't have enough cord to pull out of the water. Even if you had enough cord, the conduit will completely fill with water if you don't drain down. Since you're pulling the...

Backflushing your filter MAY allow you to run at a lower speed, but ^^^ he's 100% correct. I have the exact same heater/filter combo with a MaxFlo VSP and my LO message usually needs 84% to 87% pump speed before it goes away.

So much debatable info in your post ("the quoted text") that I don't have time to get into, but I'll quickly say that IMHO salt, at a level of 350PPM, isn't as corrosive as a lot of people think. A check valve between the heater and salt cell is something I'd recommend also. Water chemistry...

Honestly, this is where my opinion could vary from most people on this board. For me, time is tight and I only like to fix things once. I would get an entire new heater. Sure, you could replace the heat exchanger for less money but it takes twice as long and you still have all your old parts...

We've had many issues with Orbi and Omni, seems like Omni just doesn't like it. You could try connecting the Omni to your main wireless router, if possible. Bypass the Orbi all together. Other than that, we've had to run a CAT5 cable to the Omni. I'll admit that wireless connection for the Omni...

I would highly suggest the Omni Hub over what you're looking at. Has built in wireless and can control most anything you need. HLOMNIHUB