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Many Many people are going salt water generator for this exact reason.. Both liquid chlorine and SWG have raised in price right along with solid chlorine.. They are all priced just about the same and after 5 years will be very close in cost.. The only problem with a SWG is the cost is all up...

Welcome to TFP :) I would not buy liquid chlorine from the pool store, they have it priced the same or more than solid chlorine as that is what they want you to buy...

@Brian420 I was in a hurry this morning, sorry about missing the Startup procedures Allen posted :)

If you follow the you will be just fine :)

Don't worry about it as we do not trust them anyway :)

I would do nothing to your pool with a pool store test... Who knows what they were testing, what was in there from the last person who got a free test.. With your pool being 20k gallons, 1 Gallon of 10% will raise FC by 5.. Pour 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine in per day till your test kit...

Welcome to TFP :) You can keep both of those and still use them when needed.. That is the best part of TFP, know what you are putting in the pool and when to put a certain type in like already mentioned for vacation :)

Welcome to TFP :) Do you want to stay with the pool store shock and tabs or do you want a clear pool? I know this sounds like a crazzy question but it needs an answer as we do nothing the pool store does and follow . We also do not believe pool store free tests, the free test is to sell...

That is why adding DE to a sand filter works so well.. It catches so much more gunk faster than without.. It could take 12 hours to catch the same amount with just sand... instead of 2 or 3 weeks filtering it may only be a week.. :)

Do not worry about the PH till your SLAM is over, it will be fine... You are right about filters, I think big sand filters start at Pentair TR100 that hold 600 pounds of sand.. My friend had one and he could go 2 months without backwashing.. :)

Is that a 16 inch sand filter? it is small so it will take longer to clear the pool... The DE will speed the process up :)

You are all over it.. > Add enough to get 1 psi point over the baseline, but as it increases, backwash at 25% over baseline.. Backwash, add DE and repeat the procedure.. Consistency in the pressure gauge is a great thing... As long as it reads the same with the pump off and reads about the...

Welcome to TFP :) You are off to a GREAT start.. You have the run off the mill algae, brush brush brush.. The CYA test is either 50 or 60, so yours is 60 and take your SLAM to 24 FC.. The more you test the faster it will go, so try every 2 hours or so.. *** just saw your second post...

You do not connect the solar panels directly to your pump.. You connect them to your incoming power to the house... this sends 240v power to your house and the grid if you are not using all the created power... Solar panels are DC and need to be converted to AC in the controller... The...

Those are great levels for your pool.. You are not overthinking it.. The 1 to 3 ppm chlorine is from 50 years ago and not much was understood about CYA.. Really not many understand CYA now but we are working on that every day.. Now you know about it and can help someone else out.. :) I run...

the 28mil is harder to install and will be harder to puncture... If someone else is installing then the 28 mil is the way to go.. :) Both will fade the same and both should be the same as far as being durable...

I would do all that except change your brand new 100 amp panel to a 200 amp panel.. You will never lose any connections and will gain connections over the years.. I have a 200 amp panel stuffed with breakers and I was able to run a 60 amp leg to the pool. :)

You can do anything you want But I am not sure it will work or if you should do it.. I would build a small deck if the ladder is designed to be attached to a deck.. If you will already have 2 ladders in the pool there is no real reason to have another ladder, most pools only have 1 ladder... :)

I love this explanation... 3ppm is a cliff, you NEVER want to drive off a cliff.. stay away from the cliff by staying above 4FC at all times, add chlorine till you have 6 FC then test about the same time the next day, if you are at 4ppm your good > add chlorine to get back to 6FC.. if you...

Welcome to TFP :)

I hate to say this but that is efflorescence.. It is somewhat calcium but other stuff mostly salts in there also.. It is not from your pool water and has nothing to do with how you have your pool water... https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/media/686946/tb21_efflorescence.pdf

Welcome to TFP Steve :) great job on getting a great test kit... For your area I would say take your CYA to 40 at least, in the future 50 may work better for you but you can do that next year... You can still add chlorine now, just use CYA 30 for now.. The cheapest place right now to buy...

It should be draining down to the level on your skimmer.. should be 1/2 to 3/4 of the way to the top of the skimmer... You should not have to adjust it... Being in FL you will have to check your numbers more than most of us.. some places near you can get 6 inches a month... :)

Dusty, People have used all kinds of things.. yoga balls, innertubes, pillows, you name it... I actually do not use a cover at all but I have no trees or anything near my pool :)

HASA sells to everyone, if there is a HASA dealer near you :) I wish we had one as they sell 12.5% and no one has that around here..

I second the Speed Stir, it is a life saver :)

Welcome to TFP :) After a couple days testing you will be a pro.. it really is easy but I understand it can be overwhelming at first... the guess strips he is using are really just that, they get a ball park area but it is not what you need, you need to know exactly what you have...

Welcome to TFP :) Stick with the old school way and run away from "frog anything" or any other low chlorine myth.. Being in Florida you have great access to liquid chlorine, you can get carboys with 12.5% chlorine.. You want to test and dose daily.. Once you have one of the test kits we...

It will be an outlet/return pipe coming into the pool... it should be one with no water coming out when the booster pump is off and when it is on water coming out... As far as a suction side cleaner that is interesting...

The booster pump is for a pressure side cleaner connection.. Is the cleaner in the pool when it is running? If the cleaner is not connected the booster pump should not be run... Do you know what connection the cleaner goes to? A pressure side cleaner is the most energy use cleaner there is...