Just confused!

[Cscott7117]

Hello,
We are new pool owners (finished Sept 2021), so please forgive me if I get the terminology wrong. We have a 15,000 inground chlorine pool with a UV Ozone. We have the variable speed Pentair Intelliflow pump. We run the pump at 2350 for 8-12 hours, currently 12 hours. From Sept 2021- 2 weeks ago we've had clear water and balanced chemicals. Two weeks ago the water was green, so we figured algae. We shocked and added muriatic acid per our test kit recommendations and overnight we were back to sparkling water. Two days ago the water was looking cloudy so I repeated the previous steps that cleared the water up, but the water is still cloudy, even with all the chemical levels balanced. What am I missing?

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! You'll find here at TFP our methods are quite simple but not compatible with pool store testing or advice. So step #1 is to be sure you are testing your own water with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit. That is an absolute must. The test kit is critical so that you can perform a SLAM Process in its entirety to kill and remove the algae. Until then, you're just wasting time and money. Algae is a chemical issue, so at some point your FC-to-CYA ratio fell apart long enough to get the algae. But with one of those test kits, post a full set of numbers and we'll be happy to coach you through the SLAM Process.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[HermanTX]

Welcome to TFP. With a VS pump there is no reason to run at 2350 for 8-12 a day. I have same size pool and run it for 2 hrs at that speed, I have a couple of hours at 2050 and majority of time at 1750rpm. The pool will circulate just fine at 1700 rpm. That way you save energy as well. The goal is to circulate your chemical additions and to skim your pool. You do not have to have a target turnover of pool water.

Algae is a function of level of sanitation. You have a UV system which indicates you can run your free chlorine at low levels but if you are getting algae then that is not sufficient. Best you have your own test kit. Test Kits Compared

 

[pjt]

chlorine pool with a UV Ozone

How are you chlorinating? UV & ozone systems are undesirable. You get ample free UV from the sun.

We have the variable speed Pentair Intelliflow pump. We run the pump at 2350 for 8-12 hours, currently 12 hours.

That's an excellent pump. Why are you running at such high rpm?

water is still cloudy, even with all the chemical levels balanced.

Your water isn't balanced. You need a proper test kit.

What am I missing?

Your FC level is too low for your CYA level. Consult this chart:

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Cscott7117]

How are you chlorinating? UV & ozone systems are undesirable. You get ample free UV from the sun.
- We are chlorinating with Shock and tabs. I wish we had known about the UV systems before, but it's too late now.

That's an excellent pump. Why are you running at such high rpm?
- It's been at the same speed since the company set it up during pool school. The only thing we adjust is the duration it runs. What is an appropriate RPM and duration? We are in Dallas, TX.

Your water isn't balanced. You need a proper test kit.


Your FC level is too low for your CYA level. Consult this chart:

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Texas Splash]

Chlorine tabs have stabilizer in them (CYA). If you're not careful, the CYA will increase too fast and your FC won't be able to keep-up per the FC/CYA Levels. That's when algae sets in. Suggest you swatch to liquid chlorine for daily FC management.

As for the pump, a low rpm of about 1200 - 1400 rpm is typically good enough to keep water moving and surface skimmer. You can increase it maybe once a day for a few minutes to purge any air that may get trapped in the pump pot/basket, but no need to run the motor at a high rpm for long periods of time.

 

[cowboycasey]

Welcome to TFP

Do you want to stay with the pool store shock and tabs or do you want a clear pool? I know this sounds like a crazzy question but it needs an answer as we do nothing the pool store does and follow ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. We also do not believe pool store free tests, the free test is to sell chemicals not to get a clear pool...

 

[pjt]

When you say "shock", I'm assuming you mean liquid chlorine? Tabs are unsustainable for long-term chlorination; you'll need LC or a SWG.

You can always disconnect/remove the UV system.

How slow can you operate your pump while achieving the desired effects? I operate my pump at 1,000 rpm 24/7, which uses around 75 watts. That equates to ~$6/month in electricity. I like the non-stop skimming, chlorinating, filtering, and circulation. Run your pump for a purpose.