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My thoughts for what your family is going through. Pool is looking much better though.

For the future, you always need to test more often than once/week when the pool is open, even once you're done with the SLAM.

Yes, it is possible. It confirms you have something organic in your pool. Test and add liquid chloring every hour when possible and you'll be well on your way to being ready for Memorial Day.

Test for Ammonia first per mknauss's post. If there isn't any... You need to add some CYA directly to get the pool up to 30. Buy dry CYA (called stabilizer or conditioner) at Walmart, Amazon, pool store, etc. Use pool math to determine how much to bring it up 10 ppm (in case your CYA is...

If your CH level isn't high already, yes, it's ok. You just have to ensure that you don't use so much that it pushes it too high.

The chlorine isn’t touching the algae bc your CYA is so high. If your CYA was 200, you’d need to get your FC up to 79 to SLAM the pool and keep it there, which is next to impossible, and we know your CYA is above 200. The MINIMUM FC for a pool with 200 CYA is 15. You know not to add anything...

What’s the date code on the LC you’re using now and what’s the code on the bottle you were using when the FC wasn’t going up much. 5 digit code starting with a 22, or possibly a 21 (or even, gasp, a 20j?

They failed the OCLT, so Slam is needed. retest and redose as needed every 2 hours, if possible.

I’ll give that a shot on Monday.

Since I will probably be asked FC. 13.5 (coming down from Slam) CC. 0.5 pH. 7.4 CH. 180 TA. 50 CYA. 60

I have a challenge. I’ve SLAMmed twice this summer, in addition to the Slam at opening that was half hearted bc I had COVID. I came to the conclusion that there was probably algae behind the light. Ive been delaying removing the light bc I can’t do it single handed and hubby has been balking...

Thank you. I have been doing that, and I'll stop. I made the assumption that, if the flow light was red, I was fine. NI don't want to hijack the thread, so I'll start a new one.

I don't have an Intellicenter, but on my IC-40 there are buttons on the top of the SWG that I can push to lower the output. I can lower it to zero. Also, I have a valve that I can turn to bypass the SWG and the flow light turns red.

You only need to hold 5 ppm of FC for 30 minutes to be sure there’s no more ammonia, or that there wasn’t any to be give with.

Great! We will get you on the way to a clear pool. Prepare yourself that if, and only if, that CYA number is correct, you're going to have to drain about 75% of the water. Don't start replacing in advance of getting the kit because the pool store results may be completely off.

Sounds to me like there's still some living algae in there. Dead algae is grayish white.

I promise you that, while it may be a Catholic thing, it is NOT an exclusively Southern thing.

When FC is over 10, the drop pH test tests artifically high. So don't bother testing pH again until FC is under 10.

Thanks. I think I'll just throw it out and wait for the new one. It's skimming fine, but when the pump turns off, the weir door stays open and stuff comes out. Not a biggy.

Forgive me TP'ers for I have sinned. It's been <mumble mumble mumble> since my last confession. I've seen the advice often to check the foam on the weir door when having a tough SLAM. I dismissed this thinking it doesn't apply to me bc I imagined some foam stuff at the edge of the door, sort...

Update. Over Covid. As I feared when stopping SLAM several weeks ago, the pool doesn't seem to be actually clear. Noticed some dead algae on the floor yesterday. I've been SLAMming since then. CYA is 50 so SLAMming at 20. FC has been dropping to 16 every 2 hours. PILES of dead algae on the...

You are going to save SOooo much money getting control of your own pool. No more testing at pool stores and therefore no more of them recomending/pushing magic potions that don't work. I spend max $200 a year in pool chemicals. My pool is open only 5 mos a year vs your 12, but I do have to...

I can completely get being short on cash. But, if there's any way...the sooner you start slamming, the faster it will clean up and the less it will cost in liquid chlorine.

Your min FC for a CYA of 70 is 5. Once you’re done with your SLAM keep FC in the 8 range so that it never dips below 5.

Lots of nice pics of your handsome family, but the one of the pool doesnt really show the brown. If it poofs when you brush it, it’s almost definitely dying algae.

Another alternative would be a Salt Water Generator. Note that using tabs is raising your CYA again.

Here's my story of this year's SLAM. Long Slow SLAM The more often you can test, redose, and brush the faster it will go. But, if you can't spend more time on your pool, it will happen, it will just take a while.

Don’t use any more pucks. They created this situation and will recreate it if given a chance.

You're FC is very very low. It's too low even for when you're not trying to kill algae. When it goes low it's giving the algae the chance to multiple like crazy. Bring it back up to 16 and keep it there, testing every 2 hours as much as you can. Brush as much as you can.

Don't use any more tabs. That's only going to continue to raise your CYA.