Inconsistent test results...thoughts?

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TampaKathy

TampaKathy

Gold Supporter
Oct 2, 2020
809
Tampa, FL
This seems like something I should be able to find the answer to buuutttt, I couldn't so here I am :) How do you turn the IC60 off? My phone app will only allow 1% as the lowest number...won't take 0%. Do I turn the breaker off? Turn pumps off? Thanks 😊
 
There will be an interface element within Intellicenter that should allow control of the SWG, either on a web browser or on the unit itself. You might explore if that can go down to 0% (it should, and works that way on my EasyTouch). But there is no on-off switch, real or virtual.

Or, with the breakers off, you can just unplug the SWG cable from the Intellicenter cabinet, and then power up the IntelliCenter after it's unplugged. Reverse that for reconnecting the SWG. NEVER mess with connecting and disconnecting your pool's components, especially those that are associated with the COMM bus, without first turning off ALL the breakers to the pool equipment. The COMM bus is sensitive and doesn't like being messed with!
 
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I don't have an Intellicenter, but on my IC-40 there are buttons on the top of the SWG that I can push to lower the output. I can lower it to zero. Also, I have a valve that I can turn to bypass the SWG and the flow light turns red.
 
Deb04 said:
I don't have an Intellicenter, but on my IC-40 there are buttons on the top of the SWG that I can push to lower the output. I can lower it to zero. Also, I have a valve that I can turn to bypass the SWG and the flow light turns red.
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I'm pretty sure the IC's controls don't function when it is "talking" to Pentair automation. So that won't work. It works for you only because you don't have automation.

More importantly, relying on the IC's flow switch to perform the "off" function by impeding flow is not safe, at all. And if you've been doing that you should stop. The flow switch is not 100% reliable, and an IC producing chlorine gas without flow is extremely dangerous.

Sorry to interject, but neither of those suggestions are sound.
 
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Dirk said:
And relying on the IC's flow switch to perform the "off" function by impeding flow is not safe, at all. And if you've been doing that you should stop. The flow switch is not 100% reliable, and an IC producing chlorine gas without flow is extremely dangerous.
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Thank you. I have been doing that, and I'll stop. I made the assumption that, if the flow light was red, I was fine. NI don't want to hijack the thread, so I'll start a new one.
 
Deb04 said:
I made the assumption that, if the flow light was red, I was fine.
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That is supposed to be true, but even Pentair designs in two safeguards. With automation, the IC's Power Center is powered through the automation's pool circuit, so theoretically the IC gets no power unless the filter pump is also running (and presumably flowing). But even that's not a 100% guarantee. So the IC's flow switch acts as a backup safety. TFP recommends, whenever practical, that you have at least these two safeguards in place, because it's possible that either could fail.

In the case where there is no automation to provide the primary safeguard, we recommend some other way to provide it. Such as a redundant flow switch wired in. Or some folks schedule their pump to run 24/7, so a no-flow situation while the IC is powered on is pretty unlikely. Others wire in a sensor that detects when the pump is receiving power, and only then sends power to the IC. There are several ways to do it. If you'd like to explore them, then do start a new thread and we'll help you get set up.

If you want to halt chlorine production, then setting your IC to 0% is perfectly fine. That's the correct and easiest way to do that. Just keep the flow going, no matter what, if the IC is powered on.
 
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ouch! Sorry to hear that @TampaKathy , what happened? With your IC60 on that pool, you should have the settings dialed in. You already know the support here for your incoming SLAM, just curious what went off the rails to get you into trouble.

For the Intellicenter, have you upgraded the panel and using the new app, #2? I had issues with the chemistry section on the old app and it all works now in he new one, even lets me set my IC40 to zero if I need to.
 
This is my first pool and first summer so I was dialed in with settings in the winter and spring but my CYA was low which I wasn't worrying about b/c my FC was always good when I measured it but we had a bunch of storms this past week and I guess with the overflow and strong sun it caught up to me. I do the FAS-DPD on the weekend and OTO test on Wednesday...it was the Wed test when I realized FC had gotten too low. We also smell "chlorine" so I decided I'd better do the OCLT. Loss was 1.5ppm. And I made a mistake and started raising CYA right away instead of leaving it low to do the SLAM. 🤦‍♀️ Lesson learned.
 
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Current situation...watching my overflow...there goes 4 gallons of chlorine...

Sad Season 2 GIF by Friends
 
TampaKathy said:
Current situation...watching my overflow...there goes 4 gallons of chlorine...

Sad Season 2 GIF by Friends
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I'm trying to feel bad for you, but I'm remembering all you Floridians that rub it in when y'all are swimming in the winter while the rest of us are all freezin'! :poke:
 
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TampaKathy said:
I'm going to have to go to a different store today...after 8 bottles of chlorine from Pinch A Penny in 2 days, I don't want to show up there again today!
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Nah. Make it fun. Buy a tarp and rope with the chlorine. Hehe.
 
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I'm not sure what to do here...sooo last night I tested and got 19.5FC, this morning, I got 15 and thought...there's NO way I lost 4.5 overnight...so grabbed another sample...17. Ok fine, I'll keep slamming...3 hours ago I put in about a gallon of chlorine, pumps running the whole time...just tested again and got 4 different results from 3 different spots...ranging from 17 to 21. At least the cc was consistent at .5. Water is clear but does smell like "chlorine." I use large scoops of the powder. Any thoughts?
 
I believe you are overthinking it a bit.

Take your water sample from the same place in the pool each time. It might be a little higher/lower somewhere else in the pool but "so what?".

You are looking for consistency so test the same spot.

Secondly, make sure you are conducting the end point of the test correctly. You continue to add drops with the dropper held vertically so they "fall" off the tip and are not squirted off. You also continue to add drops until the LAST drop you add made absolutely no further color change. Then subtract that drop from your count.

Save your powder! One generous scoop from the little blue scoop is enough.
 
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