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Before you do it yourself, make sure your local and state codes don't require bonding work to be done by a licensed electrician. But yes, it should have a bonding wire. Ideally it should be on pretty much everything that is energized in or around the pool, as well as anything else that is highly...

Small update - glad I posted before reacting and just throwing it out... the wiring diagram really helps. Planning out the future thermistor replacement now. 2019 unit is still completely dead no matter what I do, but I took the 2016 one back out, pulled on the wires from the connector and sure...

Thanks Jim, this is great information. The actual flow should be good in this case, as it stayed red even if I increased the pump speed. I think it should be installed correctly (paddle bent toward (facing) the incoming flow). Is there a safe way to test it while powered up by depressing the...

Your post came too late! I dumped 8 bags of these in a few days ago, but thankfully I had no issues, and it dissolved very fast. I tend to use Diamond but I couldn't resist the ease of Wally World loading it into my car for me! Before Diamond I used salt from the pool store, and it wound up...

I've about had it with my IC-40(s). I have to replace flow switches almost yearly or I get either the no-flow or flashing lights. I've had to replace the entire unit twice in 8 years. I'm overall fed up, but I don't know if there's a better alternative. Is there a viable replacement without...

LOL, this is a tiny baby spider compared to the ones that'll be coming out around mid-June. Those suckers will be huge and if you touch them at all, hundreds of little baby spiders come out of it. Nightmare fuel.

lol, underwater bees were my first thought when I pulled another one of these out on Monday. This is the buildup from Monday-Saturday. If it is pollen, no wonder my lungs are struggling! Goodness...

I use hairnets in my skimmer to catch stuff before it hits the filter. Works really well, 100% recommended. But after opening this year, I'm getting some weird stuff in my skimmer. I know pollen count is really high right now, but this stuff almost looks/feels like a sponge. My water seems...

Thanks all. I think the shaft seal leak would definitely explain all of this - extra water on pad, corrosion on that metal plate, and now the bearings are slowly grinding to a halt. Sadly it probably would have been an easy fix 4-6 weeks ago when I first noticed water, but the excessive rain...

I think my pump is dying, but would like some second opinions before I bite the bullet and just have it replaced. For several weeks, I've noticed standing water on my equipment pad. It was fairly rainy during that time, so it took awhile before I realized I must have a leak and it's not just...

Oh man this is heartbreaking! All that work you put in! Hopefully insurance will do their thing and hey, at least you learned about pool chemistry and got your filtration in order. Here's hoping you'll be able to get it fixed soon and get nice TFP water from the start.

I don't have personal experience yet, but I've been reading through this forum for weeks now with this same question, and finally decided. 20x40, three steps, IG vinyl here. Maybe my massive research will help you since it really is daunting to try narrowing down the options, and Dolphin's...

Awesome news! I'd keep pump on 24hr until it's crystal clear. The goal around here is to be able to flip a quarter into the deep end and be able to tell whether it landed on heads or tails. :) CYA is a difficult test for sure. If you think it's either 30 or 40, set your levels assuming 40. Or...

Point of OCLT is to ensure all FC loss is due to sunlight, not organics. So you need to add final adjustment of bleach (to maintain SLAM level) at sunset, test again after the sun has gone down (9pm or so), and then test again before the sun has really come up (7am or so). If there's no FC drop...

I probably would. I would think most of the cloudy water is nearer the bottom. I mean, it all gets mixed together, but it's all about circulation, and maybe giving your main drain more responsibility would help keep it better circulated during the filtering process. I mean, we're talking small...

Where are you seeing this? Yours should be somewhere between 5 and 7 normally, and never allowed to drop below 3. Right now I'd say you have the perfect setting if 5.5 is as low as it gets - just make sure a heavy pool party gets covered with some supplemental bleach.

That should be plenty DE then - adding more is just going to reduce the amount that can be filtered. Sorry to say that at this point it's just time. The good news is that cloudiness/turbidity is a logarithmic thing (like the gradations on your CYA tube), so it spends a while seemingly doing...

Second the Frog Log! I got mine a bit over a month ago, and since then I've had no animals. I should have seen at least 2 birds and 4-5 frogs by now. I have mine a few feet away from the skimmer.

If it's calcium scale, scrubbing it off isn't going to really help. Once you get your chemistry balanced, the issue could take care of itself. Run the pH on the low end, and it could eventually go back into solution. If it's some other kind of crud, then maybe the non-scratch kind of dish sponge...

You should be aware ahead of time that if it works, it does so by converting CYA to ammonia. It's supposed to have a second step that converts the ammonia to nitrogen gas. This is done via two types of bacteria working in conjunction. So your FC must be zero to avoid killing the bacteria before...

Yes, I'd patch it soon if it's enough for dirt to work it's way in. Use a sponge (maybe with bleach) to clean the area before applying the patch so it doesn't adhere to any dirt. Hopefully you have a snorkel or something to make it easier! Haha! Though I think you'll find once you use TFP...

I don't know about particular robot guts here, but I am a software guy. I would really doubt it learns anything about your pool from operation to operation. There's no benefit in the algorithm. Basically, upon startup it's going to move, and gradually map out the pool. During that cycle, it will...

That's crazy! Must be some kind of weird mutant mice that survive on vinyl. Maybe they are mafioso-style mice that would offer you "liner protection" in exchange for sitting some food out for them. :) I can't think of any better ideas than an old freezer. Maybe a good deck box would work, but...

Ok, that simplifies the answer then! I'd first shoot for 40 CYA, see what improvement that makes, and then shoot for 50 if you want a bit more help. CYA is only a bad thing when you have so much you can't reasonably keep FC levels high enough. Outside of that, it's a really good thing. I'd say...

Pool Math is very precise if you are certain on your volumes, and if your bleach is not outdated (check the date code). If you're not losing it overnight, then you're losing it during the day. I'd suggest going to CYA of 40 or 50, the latter if your pool is in full sun. Then adjust your FC...

If you can get to both sides of the hole, patch them on both sides. Do whichever side is easiest to get a good seal first, then the other side. Go a good bit larger than the hole, especially on the outside. Is there a food source close to your pool that would be attracting them? Trash bins...

Hmm, interesting. Yes, the ladders will be easy to find - just find the two holes, install, and tighten the little nut beside the hole to anchor it. Not sure why you have two ladders and one place for it, but just pick the best one (probably the 3-step one)! It looks like they have some concrete...

For the most part, obey what your SWG wants you to do. The IC40 sensor is far from accurate, and it's probably wrong in this case, but it's not yet dead (I bet it will be in another year; those things are flaky - but replaceable). Don't get too caught up in the strips - it's good for knowing the...

That's great that FC held overnight! SLAM ends when the water is clear (and FC holds overnight, and CC <= 0.5), for good reason. Right now you still have some kind of debris at the bottom. When you overturn that stuff, what's going to be under it? Possibly some algae or bacteria. It loves hiding...

It's normal to see sand in the sight glass during the backwash cycle. As long as the water itself is clear you're done backwashing. On the rinse cycle, you should never see sand (after it flushes out stuff that was there during backwash). If you do, that's a good way to tell your laterals are...