msjenkins

Gold Supporter
Jul 6, 2024
10
Piedmont, SC
Pool Size
57000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Hi, needing advise!
1st post here on TFP, I am a design/build residential general contractor in Upstate South Carolina. Our personal pool has become a diy design/build (long story). With almost 50 years in the business I am very comfortable with the engineering and construction of the build. We are building an ICF and plaster pool. Pretty large, 57,000 gals., 1200 sf surface area. Where I lack expertise is in the selection of equipment. I have decided on Pentair equipment but have not been able to get much help in advise there. I even attended a Pentair seminar in Tampa but it was mostly designed around the service industry. So, lots of hours doing research. I am attaching what I have come up with for the plumbing layout and list of equipment I am looking at, and also the pool design. Any and All advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!
 

Attachments

  • 120 Pool Design.pdf
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  • 120 Pool PLUMBING DESIGN.pdf
    2.6 MB · Views: 9
Welcome to TFP.

You have the basic equipment correct - IntelliCenter, Intelliflo3, CCP filter, Intellichlor IC60, Ultratemp 140

You say the spa is an independent body of water, yet you have specified a PS system. Confirm that the spa will not spill over to the pool. Will the spa have its own equipment—pump, filter, chlorinator, heater? If so, you need an IntelliCenter D system, not a PS.

A 56K pool needs at least two IC60's. The issue is the IntelliCenter can only control one legacy Intellichlor IC60 cell. Pentair recently announced a new generation IntelliChlor cell, IntelliChlor Plus, which the IntelliCenter should be able to control up to four cells. The IntelliCenter has the programming for controlling four cells, but the legacy IC60 cannot change the cell address.

You have four different plumbing diagrams, and the structures they map to are unclear. You show Pool/Spa plumbing, yet say the spa is an independent body.

How many heat pumps will you have to heat the 56K of water or the spa?

Do you have natural gas available?

All those waterfalls and water features are going to cause the pool pH to rise and be an issue. You will be chasing scale problems on the waterfalls. I think you are building a pool that will require a lot of maintenance and be expensive to run. I don't know if that is a consideration.

Microbrite lights seem to fail within a few years and are expensive to replace.


Why do you have the catch pool? I would like @setsailsoon to look at the size of your catch pool and how you will pump and plumb it.

Will the equipment be below the pool water line in the sub-terranean pump house?

Where will the heat pumps be placed?

What is the size of the waterfalls? What flow rates will they require for the water flow you desire? I think you will need larger 3" plumbing for the waterfalls.

Use regular actuators and not IntelliValves. They are much more reliable.

Lots more we need to discuss but this is a start.


 
Comments on your materials based on years of seeing people's problems:

Boulders the water is falling on can hold pools of water that can breed algae. That can cause the pool to have continuing algae problems, the water never staying algae free, and excessive chlorine consumption.

The boulders may contain iron, which can stain them and get into the water to stain the pool surfaces.

Water flow over the boulders will wear them down over time, which is how the Grand Canyon was created. The boulders can begin crumbling, putting debris in the pool.

The boulders will be impossible to clean off algae or scale.

What materials will be used for the beach entry? Pool plaster needs to be submerged. The best and most expensive option is tile.

What will be the materials on the spillway and catch basin?

What will the pool and spa finish be?

I don't see any pool cleaners specified. How will you clean the pool and spa surfaces?
 
Wow! That's a pretty big pool. I'm on the road at the moment so I don't have access to my bigger screen to look at your attachments. Will be home in a couple days and add more comments when I can open and look at them. In the meantime, just looking at your layout I'm wondering why you have the spillway and catch basin. Is it just for visual effect? You've got way more experience building than I do so I'm sure you're aware of the catch basin sizing criteria. It looks a little small to me. You can't go wrong with Pentair and just need to get the hydraulics performed and size the pumps accordingly. If you need help with that we have several real experts that can help. In general I'd say go conservative on the suction piping and it will pay big dividends.

Chris
 
Thank you ajw22 and setsailsoon, I will try to address your questions in order. I can't express how much I appreciate the advise. This is all very new for me. Thank you!!

Spa: The spa will not spill over into the pool. I listed it as indepentent only because it does not spill into the pool. I had hoped to share the equipment. IE: filter and swg. Which is why I thought the PS system was correct. The spa is part of the 3rd line of plumbing. I included the check valves to not drain the spa water back into the pool during the valve change and because of the elevation difference. Let me know if my thinking is wrong.

SWG: I was not aware of the IntelliChlor Plus. From my research the IC60 would handle up to 60k and that the Intellicenter only controls 1 IC. If multiple are required I would need to know how to set that up? I've been trying to communicate with Pentair and my local rep. Not sure if it is because of the holidays but not getting many answers there. Please let me know if you have any model numbers for the IntelliChlor Plus. It's sounds like the solution. I will be trying again tomorrow (Monday) to reach my Rep. (I see the IntelliChlor Plus60 is to be released in 2025)

Four different plumbing diagrams: There are 4 different diagrams only to indicate the 4 pumps. Each diagram show the water flow from water intake to its return point

1) Catch pool: Drains in the catch pool to pump to returns to the pool. There will be a patio and firepit at the lower level patio (Pool layout) past the spillway and catch pool. It is there to add an effect and sound to that patio area. The plumbing layout has returns back to the pool and Aux waterfall that would take water from the catch pool and return to the pool to create the spill over. Because of the terrain elevation I have added the "creek" which would be a stone lined creek that would feed back the the catch pool also. All are valve controled on individual return plumbing lines.

2) Pool- The second line diagram is basic filter and heat: I figured 2 pumps on the filter/heat system in order to get 2 turns of water in 24 hrs and stay around 35 gpm for efficiency.
This pump would draw from 2 skimmers and 1 set of bottom drains and return to 3 bubblers and 2 basic returns. All individually plumbed

3) Pool- (2) The third line diagran is also basic filter and heat but is shared with the spa filter and heat (unless I'm thinking wrong)
It would also be able to add flow to the waterfall as needed for effect.
I've located the valves so if needed for jet action I can bypass the filter/heat for direct flow from the pump to the spa returns. ?????

4) The 4th pump is strickly for the waterfalls. Drain intake to pump to optionally slpit main and aux waterfalls
The terrain is such that the waterfalls take advantage of the natural slope of the ground. Also why the spa is located 6' above the pool and the lower level patio is below the catch pool. Also the reason the "pump house/equipment room is sub-terranean. The pump room will be open to one side for access. The heat pumps will be located on the open side of the pump house for easy access and plumbing.

Pumps: Since I will be using the IntelliCenter, is 011075 the correct pump part number?

Heat Pumps: 2 Pentair UltraTemp 140 Heat only heat pumps. We had originally planned to not heat the pool here in South Carolina. Also part of the reason I went with using the ICF block to create a thermal break between the water and the earth. I will probably set up the plumbing for them and run a season without to see how it goes. I do not have access to natural gas and will not consider using LP. If push came to shove I would consider adding solar at a later date. I have geothermal heat and air in my house and considered it for the pool but not able to get the additional ground loop space required.

Microbrites: I would love to see options for the microbrites. Yes, very expensive and short life from what I've read. I have already purchased the light niche and microbrite adaptor for the bubblers but not crazy money. I would love to hear about options. We do not plan for colored lighting. It will only be warm white but would like to have dimming capabilities. I would also like an opinion on my light locations and number of lights.

Waterfalls: The waterfalls will be constructed from solid granite boulders and only run them on an as needed basis for effect. They are fairly large and mostly about the visual affect. The flow is not as important as the look. They are not optional. I suppose I will have to deal with their affects on the pool.
Boulders: Solid granite. Should be little wear and the water flow is not a constant. The pool is on the west side of the house and any pooling should not sit for extended periods of time. When I lay them I will take care to get them to drain fairly well.

Actuators: Talk to me about them. My understanding from reading is that the IntellValve can adjusted in increments and the regular ones have mechanical stops?? Yes, I have read about them not being as reliable and it is very much a concern. I will definitly look at what I can control with the regular actuators and mechanical stops.

Why the catch pool: (See Catch Pool in plumbing diagram above)
@setsailsoon The catch pool is approx. 1700 gals., 50 sf of surface area and 4.5' deep. I did some calc's and it would take approx 375 gals to raise the surface of the pool 1/2". That would lower the water level in the catch pool 12", but at some point the water has already started to return to the catch and therefore should be less than 12". I will be drawing water from bottom drains, (no skimmer) and should still have a minimum of 3 1/2 ft of water. I'm think I'm looking at this right?

Equipment location: My plan for placing the pumps is to have them as close as possible to water level in the pool.
The heat pumps would be just outside the equipment room. 3 sides of the equip. rm. are covered with either dirt or the boulder waterfall. This is because of the existing terrain. When i was thinking geothermal, I could have the unit inside but that in no longer possible.


Finishes:
Beach Entry: Thank you for the suggestions on surface. I will choose accordingly.
Pool: plaster with tile waterline
Catch: plaster with tile waterline
Spillway: Tile
Spa: Fiberglass

Cleaning: Robotic, suggestion on make and model ?

Thank you again
Mike
 
Spa: The spa will not spill over into the pool. I listed it as indepentent only because it does not spill into the pool. I had hoped to share the equipment. IE: filter and swg.

Then, you need an IntelliCenter D (Dual Equipment) board, and you cannot share equipment.

Which is why I thought the PS system was correct. The spa is part of the 3rd line of plumbing. I included the check valves to not drain the spa water back into the pool during the valve change and because of the elevation difference. Let me know if my thinking is wrong.

This is irrelevant since you will not share equipment or connect with the pool plumbing.

SWG: I was not aware of the IntelliChlor Plus.



From my research the IC60 would handle up to 60k and that the Intellicenter only controls 1 IC.

We recommend a SWG be sized for 2X your pool volume. SWG ratings assume the cell is running at 100% 24/7. You want to have excess chlorination capacity that you can crank up when necessary.



If multiple are required I would need to know how to set that up? I've been trying to communicate with Pentair and my local rep. Not sure if it is because of the holidays but not getting many answers there. Please let me know if you have any model numbers for the IntelliChlor Plus. It's sounds like the solution. I will be trying again tomorrow (Monday) to reach my Rep. (I see the IntelliChlor Plus60 is to be released in 2025)

The IntelliCenter will power one cell, and you will need an IntelliChlor Power Center for the second cell. When they become available, get a 523738—IntelliChlor PLUS 60K cell.

If the IntelliChlor Plus cell can be set to address 2 you will connect the Power Center to the IntelliCenter with a 2 wire RS-485 connection.

Four different plumbing diagrams: There are 4 different diagrams only to indicate the 4 pumps. Each diagram show the water flow from water intake to its return point

1) Catch pool: Drains in the catch pool to pump to returns to the pool. There will be a patio and firepit at the lower level patio (Pool layout) past the spillway and catch pool. It is there to add an effect and sound to that patio area. The plumbing layout has returns back to the pool and Aux waterfall that would take water from the catch pool and return to the pool to create the spill over. Because of the terrain elevation I have added the "creek" which would be a stone lined creek that would feed back the the catch pool also. All are valve controled on individual return plumbing lines.

The catch pool pump needs to be on a float switch so that if the catch pool water level gets low, the pump is shut off. Otherwise, you have no guarantee as to the flow into the catch pool from the pool above.

You also need an overflow switch on the catch pool so that if it gets too high, the pool pump can be shut off.

If the catch pool pump is going to feed a waterfall, you need to determine the required flow GPM since you do not have a guaranteed GPM flow into the catch pool.

I think that the artificial creek you will run pool water into the catch basin will cause leaks, high evaporation, and be a source of algae. This member has a similar creek he is now trying to replace with plumbing...


2) Pool- The second line diagram is basic filter and heat: I figured 2 pumps on the filter/heat system in order to get 2 turns of water in 24 hrs and stay around 35 gpm for efficiency.
This pump would draw from 2 skimmers and 1 set of bottom drains and return to 3 bubblers and 2 basic returns. All individually plumbed

Turnovers are not needed in pools. It should not be a consideration in your design - Turnover of Pool Water - Further Reading

3) Pool- (2) The third line diagran is also basic filter and heat but is shared with the spa filter and heat (unless I'm thinking wrong)
It would also be able to add flow to the waterfall as needed for effect.
I've located the valves so if needed for jet action I can bypass the filter/heat for direct flow from the pump to the spa returns. ?????

This needs to be redone to be spa only.

You want to be able to heat the spa while the jets are on.


Spa_Jet_Design.png


Consider this without the pool connections...

Spa_Dual_Pump_Plumbing.png

4) The 4th pump is strickly for the waterfalls. Drain intake to pump to optionally slpit main and aux waterfalls
The terrain is such that the waterfalls take advantage of the natural slope of the ground. Also why the spa is located 6' above the pool and the lower level patio is below the catch pool. Also the reason the "pump house/equipment room is sub-terranean. The pump room will be open to one side for access. The heat pumps will be located on the open side of the pump house for easy access and plumbing.
I will study the plumbing diagrams a bit.

You need to get specific on the expected flow rates for the spa jets and waterfalls to ensure the plumbing keeps suction pipe velocity below 6 ft/sec and return pipe velocity below 8 ft/sec.

You need to revise your plumbing so that there is no shared equipment or pool/spa interconnections.

Pumps: Since I will be using the IntelliCenter, is 011075 the correct pump part number?

I recommend you get IntelliFlo3 VSF 3HP with Touchscreen - 011077.

If you do not have the touch screens you will need the Pentair Pool phone app to adjust any pump settings when the IntelliCenter is in SERVICE mode. I do not want the phone app to be required when I am doing pool maintenance. And what happens if someone else needs to adjust the pump?

Heat Pumps: 2 Pentair UltraTemp 140 Heat only heat pumps. We had originally planned to not heat the pool here in South Carolina. Also part of the reason I went with using the ICF block to create a thermal break between the water and the earth. I will probably set up the plumbing for them and run a season without to see how it goes. I do not have access to natural gas and will not consider using LP. If push came to shove I would consider adding solar at a later date. I have geothermal heat and air in my house and considered it for the pool but not able to get the additional ground loop space required.

Two 140K BTU heat pumps will heat the 56,000-gallon pool, best case, 0.6 degrees per hour at 80F and 80% humidity.

At 50 degrees and 63% humidity, you have 90K heaters that heat less than 0.4 degrees per hour.

Microbrites: I would love to see options for the microbrites. Yes, very expensive and short life from what I've read. I have already purchased the light niche and microbrite adaptor for the bubblers but not crazy money. I would love to hear about options. We do not plan for colored lighting. It will only be warm white but would like to have dimming capabilities.


Jandy Watercolors Nicheless LED Lights with Hydrocool Technology P-Series

CMP Brilliant Wonders nicheless LED lights with Smart Synch Technology - P Style for Pentair automation systems,

I would also like an opinion on my light locations and number of lights.

Jandy has an excellent Lighting Design Guide using nicheless LED lights.


Pentair guideline is to aim for 4 lumens per square foot of pool surface. For example, if the pool is 500 sq-ft, you need 500x4=2000 lumens. This would be 4 MicroBrites or 2 IntelliBrite rgb.


Waterfalls: The waterfalls will be constructed from solid granite boulders and only run them on an as needed basis for effect. They are fairly large and mostly about the visual affect. The flow is not as important as the look. They are not optional. I suppose I will have to deal with their affects on the pool.

What model waterfalls? Look in the installation manual for the required flow rate for the throw you need. That will drive your pump and plumbing requirements you are asking about.

Boulders: Solid granite. Should be little wear and the water flow is not a constant. The pool is on the west side of the house and any pooling should not sit for extended periods of time. When I lay them I will take care to get them to drain fairly well.

Good luck. I still think that with all your best efforts there will be a problem.

Actuators: Talk to me about them. My understanding from reading is that the IntellValve can adjusted in increments and the regular ones have mechanical stops??


Both Intellivalves and regular actuators can only have two stop points for automation. Years ago, Pentair promised that automation would be able to have more than two stop points on the IntelliValve but has never delivered on this promise. I doubt the current IntelliValves being sold will ever have that ability.

Yes, I have read about them not being as reliable and it is very much a concern. I will definitly look at what I can control with the regular actuators and mechanical stops.

All the same as the IntelliValve.

Have you considered a standalone hot tub with integrated equipment for your spa location? It will greatly simplify the plumbing and equipment.
 
Thank you,
Lots of info to digest. Kinda sounds like a lot of information I've researched over the last year may not have been correct. I wish I had found TFP sooner but thank goodness I'm only mid way into construction. I will be a supporter of TFP, I have gotten better real life info here than anywhere else.
We are on the road at the moment for out of town work. I'll go over all this, but looks like some redesign work is needed. Too much to do on my phone.
Thank you again for all your help. I'll digest this and get back asap. Still lots of questions
 
How far are you into construction?

Post revised plans and we will iterate with you to a good solution. It is easier modifying paper than concrete.
 

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My wife took this just before Christmas. I've been able to get one day in since then. This is a me only job in my spare time so moving slow.
Working on forms and rebar, no plumbing or elect. yet.
1000015158.jpg
 
Interesting build. We don't get to follow many ICF builds. We had one owner build here that took him over three years to complete.

I know you are in the trades, but I feel compelled to point out the hazard of uncapped rebar. One slip and fall can do serious injury. I am sure you would never leave it like that on a job site.

full
 
Yes, need to put them back on the shallow end. The ICF blocks are in place on the deep end now and cover the tops of the rebar. I have to remove the caps to set the ICF blocks. I'll post pics along the way if you guys are interested. It's been a real learning curve for me but not much in 50 years I've ever backed away from. 🙃
 
I'll post pics along the way if you guys are interested. It's been a real learning curve for me but not much in 50 years I've ever backed away from. 🙃

We love pictures and following along.

We learn a lot from it. Folks ask about ICF construction, and we have not seen many to learn how it is done and how it works out.

Here are some...


 
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Ok. Dissecting info:
Spa: The plan is to do something similar to this picture except the spa is about 6 ft above the pool and close to the back side of the pump house. I can have one side accessible but I want all the equipment in the pump house and only plumbing around the spa. I did a spa/water feature similar about 25 yrs ago. I reconditioned a fiberglass unit and put the equipment under the waterfall. Much easier to work on.
I've had a self contained spa and they are a pain to work on. (Too old to lay down to change a pump..lol).
So, with doing as you suggested would require seperate pump, filter, heater, chlorination and control with

Pentair IntelliCenter i10D Personality Kit - Dual Equipment #521915​

Correct?1000015160.jpg
 
We love pictures and following along.

We learn a lot from it. Folks ask about ICF construction, and we have not seen many to learn how it is done and how it works out.

Here are some...


Where should I post? A seperate thread?
 
So, with doing as you suggested would require seperate pump, filter, heater, chlorination and control with

Pentair IntelliCenter i10D Personality Kit - Dual Equipment #521915​

Correct?

Yup.

Air blower?

Consider having two pumps on the spa, with one for filter/heating/chlorination and one for the spa jets.

Where should I post? A seperate thread?
Keep it all here.
 
I finally made it back and have had time to look things over on your original attachments so I can zoom in on measurements. I still think your catch basin is going to be a little small. At the very least I'd put an over-flow that diverts to the side and/or around the patio below. It's amazing how easy it is to over-flow from operating failures or "gully washers" we get often. In my case it just flows over to a 26' patch of grass with a 5:1 slope down to the rear property line. In your case it floods the patio. Also you'll want to set the level to run as low as practical to give you maximum surge capacity. I tried using some of lower end level sensors to control pool make-up water and had nothing but trouble with them. So I changed them out for a simple watering trough float style level control that has worked flawlessly.

How is water that is discharged from the catch basin pump to the creek get recovered? I'd think about removing it. It's just going to aerate the Crud out of your water and cause a lot of acid consumption... just my $.02.

Looks like your elevations are reasonable. I ended up with 10'+ suction draw from the catch basin to the pool pump above ground next to the house. With some good tutoring here I became an expert at priming during start up. Of course now it doesn't take long since it's only off 7 hrs per day. When I get around to re-programing I'll go to the 24/7 operation a la @Jimrahbe operation since it's almost free at lowest speed even though I have a monster 5 hp vs commercial Pentair pump.

I think the design concept is gorgeous - also echo Allen's and other's comments on swg, operating costs. When I first started developing the concept for our OB pool somebody here (might have been Allen) got me started thinking about zero edge designs. We quickly fell in love with them and we're starting to see more of them especially on higher-end pools. It's a little late for you to consider this kind of change but I think it would be stunning on your pool. It was also way easier to construct than I thought it would be using architectural foam for the 2"X3" gutter that's required. Just a thought for you. It also eliminates the need for a skimmer since your entire pool now becomes a skimmer and no matter which way or how strong the wind blows your surface is pristine. It looks like a mirror most of the day. Just a thought for you to consider. Plus elevation control using your wall system should be easier than my traditional gunite so meeting the tight elevation control required should be easier. If you go this way consider a few floor returns. We're very happy with them especially the eyballs that I can set to encourage good mixing. I added a couple photos to show the effect.

I hope this is helpful. And please do keep us posted with plenty of photos!

Chris



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