New SoCal IG shotcrete pool build - equipment set, Final Inspection Passed, Pebble Done! Salt added. Back deck in process

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Electrical is continuing today and based on my reading it appears he is hooking the intelliflo pumps up wrong. As I understand, they should have constant power (ie each pump hooked straight to the breaker) and are then fully controlled by the data line. He has them each running thru the load side of 2 of the intellicenter relays. I beleive I understand that the circ pump goes breaker to the line side of the 1st relay , then staying on the line side of the relay to the pump so that the intellichlor can go on the load side of the relay. The feature pump should just go straight from breaker to pump and not utilize a relay at all from my recollection
@MyAZPool does my intellicenter understanding sound correct?
 
Yes, you are correct. The Filter Pump should be connected directly to continuous power. Either directly to the Circuit Breaker or to the LINE side (NOT the load side) of the pump relay.
r.
 
Thank you @MyAZPool , the reference you put together is phenomenal!
Pumps have been rewired correctly, next is getting him to connect the rs485 for the heater and the intelivalve for the heater bypass!
I am not feeling the installation he is doing on the pool lights. He has the low voltage wiring going into the high voltage side of the panel. He ran liquidflex from a pair of Intermatic junction boxes to the bottom of the intellicenter then liquidflex out the back to the low voltage transformers. It would have been nothing to run the flex straight to the transformer so why run thru the load center??
After some serious overthinking, i got my equipment pad light installed and setup as aux9. Adapters for the microbrites have been installed as well.
2 steps forward ✨️ 20220516_195337.jpg20220516_195553.jpg20220516_225745.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: AndyOside, MyAZPool, gingrbredman and 2 others
Plumber had already run a 2 wire cable from the heater to j2 on the intellicenter. I tried to explain the need for the rs485 line but it's not getting thru so I think I'll just do it when they are done.
@myazfor the intellivalves, any reason not to cut and splice the wires? As it is , he has the several extra feet bundled in the low voltage raceway which looks excessively overcrowded. Also for the heater auto bypass, that intellivalve is supposed to go to the heater, not the intellicenter, is that correct?
Thank you to all here at tfp for your assistance in this build!
 
  • Like
Reactions: AndyOside
Ahultin said:
Plumber had already run a 2 wire cable from the heater to j2 on the intellicenter. I tried to explain the need for the rs485 line but it's not getting thru so I think I'll just do it when they are done.
Click to expand...

You can use the 2 wire for the RS485. That is what I did, just repurposed the 2 wire for the fireman's switch that was originally installed. No issues to date.

Ahultin said:
for the intellivalves, any reason not to cut and splice the wires? As it is , he has the several extra feet bundled in the low voltage raceway which looks excessively overcrowded.
Click to expand...

No reason other than my personal opinion is I don't like splices. I believe @MyAZPool actually installed a strip of terminal blocks and landed his wires there, then made pigtails out of the connector ends to connect the terminal blocks to the board. See post # 2 in this thread... IntelliCenter OCP Load Center / Equipment Pad – Modifications and Retrofit

Ahultin said:
for the heater auto bypass, that intellivalve is supposed to go to the heater, not the intellicenter, is that correct?
Click to expand...

This is correct. However it should be noted that in order to engage the auto bypass in the heater menu, the RS485 cable must be disconnected at the heater board. Also, there is currently an issue with the heater cooldown feature never turning off, and as such, the on-board heater bypass valve will never return to its bypass state (which should be partially open, IMO). The last handful of posts on this thread discuss this issue... IntelliCenter and MasterTemp 400 Communication

--Jeff
 
  • Like
Reactions: MyAZPool
@Ahultin
Jeff (@Turbo1Ton) is all over that newer RS-485 capable MasterTemp 400. He and others have been wrestling with some of the finer points of that heater and he should be able to help you along with what you are trying to do.

As far as splicing the IntelliValve cables, I kind of agree with Jeff's comment. Yea, I know of only myself and two other's that have tackled that task in the way that I did. It's a lot of work to do it up right.
Unless you're just suffering from severe OCD/ATD like I do :p, I'd either just find a hidden spot somewhere on the pad to wire tie the excess up out of the way or you can run them all into an appropriate sized plastic J-Box and bundle the excess in there. Maybe there is another solution that someone else has thought of.

Thanks...
r.
 
Yeah, I have 6 intellivalve cords bundled up in my low volt area. It definitely stinks and looks bad but until I have time to do the terminal blocks like Ron did, I'll live with that.

Are you referring to the valve wire connectors? I looked at those and I agree they do kinda look like a punchdown type of connection. Definitely might be worth a try. I think @rstrouse has a link to the valve connectors in the GitHub for the nodejs pool controller.

FYI - I meant to mention it before, for the heater bypass valve, I have mine landed on the Intellicenter board and programmed to activate on the internal heater bit. So a call for heat will bump the pump speed, turn the valve, and fire the heater. Once temp is met, the heater stops and the heater bit is de-energized, the pump slows, bypass returns to home state.

If Pentair ever fixes the issue, I will likely switch the valve over to the heater board. I'll just have to see if/when that ever happens. It's probably right up there on their priority list next to RS485 comms for the Intellivalve. :ROFLMAO:

--Jeff
 
  • Like
Reactions: MyAZPool

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Long ago, I tried re-terminating those female JST connectors but I couldn't make it work. I tried to buy some new JST connectors off the internet but I couldn't find where I could buy them in anything less than a quantity of 1000 ea.
Yea, I would definitely ask @rstrouse about them. He certainly might have a solution for you..
r.
 
😆 I was just trying to be cheap and not buy an extra valve daughter board for one valve. I suppose in the scheme of things it's an irrelevant cost 🙃
I'll land the heater bypass valve on the main board.
 
Ahultin said:
😆 I was just trying to be cheap and not buy an extra valve daughter board for one valve. I suppose in the scheme of things it's an irrelevant cost 🙃
Click to expand...

Completely understand... That's most of the goings on in my life. "That price is ridiculous! Surely I can do it cheaper!" 400 hours of research and scouring the interwebs for all the individual components and 150 hours of time to build it, not to mention all of the lost sleep or productivity on other projects that should be waaaaay more important and I saved $50! :laughblue:

--Jeff
 
  • Haha
  • Like
Reactions: Ahultin, Newdude and MyAZPool
Turbo1Ton said:
Completely understand... That's most of the goings on in my life. "That price is ridiculous! Surely I can do it cheaper!" 400 hours of research and scouring the interwebs for all the individual components and 150 hours of time to build it, not to mention all of the lost sleep or productivity on other projects that should be waaaaay more important and I saved $50! :laughblue:

--Jeff
Click to expand...
Yup, that is about it 🤣
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply