- May 3, 2014
- 62,735
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
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IC60 - low salt light, but Taylor kit saying 3400ppm
- Thread starter Pperc
- Start date
So the rewired back to original is leaving me in the same situation. red and green flashing endlessly! What in the world…
Maybe the cell is wrong or your test is wrong.
Check the actual salinity a different reliable way.
Get a different K-1766 test kit and a calibrated meter to verify the salinity to be extra sure.
Also, make sure that you are doing the test correctly with good reagents.
Check the actual salinity a different reliable way.
Get a different K-1766 test kit and a calibrated meter to verify the salinity to be extra sure.
Also, make sure that you are doing the test correctly with good reagents.
Maybe add a bag of salt to see if that makes a difference.
Maybe clean the cell if there is scale, which can interfere with the salinity test.
Maybe clean the cell if there is scale, which can interfere with the salinity test.
The reagents are brand new as of a month ago. And the test was matching my old reagents anyways. Im going to plug the lines and take the unit out and replace the thermistor and see
So I installed the new flow switch (just twisting the wires together) and now the flow light is red. So this flow switch is bad OR twisting the wires together isn’t sufficient? Can someone point me to a genuine Pentair flow switch/thermistor?
BowserB
Silver Supporter
- Jul 29, 2018
- 785
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Maybe/probably not an issue but... K1766 has a +/- error factor. The IC60 has a +/- error factor. Pentair says 3600ppm is both the minimum and ideal salt concentration. Easy and cheap to add another bag of salt.
The minimum is 2800 per what is written on the actual unit.
Ecommerce (EC) products: Products purchased from an Authorized Pentair Online Reseller (products beginning with EC-) receive a one (1) year (parts only) warranty from the date of purchase.
The exceptions are: IntelliChlor cells and IntelliFlo SVRS pumps which receive a two (2) year warranty. EC products are not eligible for the bundled three (3) year extended warranty.
Pool Product Warranty Information
Pentair delivers smart, sustainable solutions that empower our customers to make the most of life's essential resource. At Pentair, we believe the health of our world depends on reliable access to clean water.
When did you buy it?
The time to ask is before you begin taking things apart.
In any case, the warranty is probably ok.
Pentair IntelliChlor Flow Switch, 0.5" Male Pipe Thread, 2 Amps - Model 520736 - INYOPools.com
FLOW SWITCH ASSY INTELLICHLOR (#N/A)
www.inyopools.com
Pool & Spa | Fluid Flow and Liquid Level Switches | Harwil - Oxnard, CA
HomePool & SpaPool & SpaHarwil Flow Switches are used by almost all of the major pool equipment and spa manufacturers in the world. Harwil Flow Switches are a critical part of the new generation of salt water chlorine generators which are used to replace adding chlorine to a swimming pool. The...
harwil.com
Flow switch has 4 wires on cells manufactured before September 2018:
- Red/black - flow switch
- Green/white - temperature sensor
- Red - flow switch
- White - temperature sensor
- Black - common
Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
PartsWarehouse
www.partswarehouse.com
Is this a genuine part?
That's the new 3-wire model.
Yours is the older style 4 wire model.
The notes say before or after September 2018, but your cell was made during September 2018, which is not before or after, which causes some confusion.
The flow switch installation instructions seem to indicate that the new flow switch will work, you just need to cap off the green wire.
Last edited:
Yes it does. The switch had 4 wires. So I could buy either the old 4 wire or the new 3 wire based on what I’m reading but maybe the new 3 wire would be the safest bet.
That's the new 3-wire model.
Yours is the older style 4 wire model.
The notes say before or after September 2018, but your cell was made during September 2018, which is not before or after, which causes some confusion.
The flow switch installation instructions seem to indicate that the new flow switch will work, you just need to cap off the green wire.
I’m most frustrated that cutting the wires didn’t get the cell working again. It seems to be different than everyone else’s experience and has me worried that there is an issue with the cell itself.
Possibly just low salt.
Never trust any salinity test 100%.
Verify the salinity with 2 new different reliable methods.
When did you buy it?
Never trust any salinity test 100%.
Verify the salinity with 2 new different reliable methods.
When did you buy it?