IC60 - low salt light, but Taylor kit saying 3400ppm

And what other reliable methods for testing salt are there other than the 1766? That was gold standard I thought?
71vl5Kv3UOL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Hayward GLX-SALTMETER Digital Handheld Salt Meter.

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http://www.myronl.com/products/poolmeter.htm
 
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71vl5Kv3UOL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Hayward GLX-SALTMETER Digital Handheld Salt Meter.

1749.png


image1__79402.1558433747.jpg


asset-get.product.image.jsa

Thanks, purchased the LaMotte
 
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See this post where the poster had a bad reading from a K-1766.

Even though it's a good test, any test can give an odd result.

When you have two methods giving different results (like a cell vs a test), you should get a third test as a tiebreaker and maybe even a 4th test just to be sure.
@JamesW

Ugh! The new T15 cell (model TCell15SWP, suppose to be compatible with Aqua Rite controller) arrived today and I installed it, changed the controller setting to T15, and fired it up. For some reason with the new cell I‘m still getting a low instant salt reading! In fact, it’s the same instant salt reading the old cell (from 2015) gives on the T15 setting!

Now I‘m wondering if the problem all along wasn’t the cell, but something else.

Here’s the diagnostic readings for the new cell, controller set to T15

2200 (I reset the Avg salt setting to match the instant setting)
26.2v
5.06a
80P
-2200
AL-0
r1.50
t-15

I turned it off and back on to switch polarities, the only difference was 25.7v, 4.96a. Everything else was the same.

Of course, shortly after it powers up, the Low Salt and Check Cell lights come on (steady) and it stops generating (Generating light shuts off).

Any idea what may be going on here? Anything I can check?

Thank you.

PS - I just check salt level with the Taylor drop test; 3000ppm (tested twice to confirm)

Edit: I also made sure the salt cell plug contacts were clean. They looked brand new on the controller, but I cleaned them anyway. That made no difference. Also, if it matters, the controller was installed March 2004 and the main board was replaced in spring 2009.
 
See this post where the poster had a bad reading from a K-1766.

Even though it's a good test, any test can give an odd result.

When you have two methods giving different results (like a cell vs a test), you should get a third test as a tiebreaker and maybe even a 4th test just to be sure.
True. But the cell was giving me a 99+F water temp reading so I know there was an issue with the thermistor. Couldn’t just be the salt.
I’ve done 3 things:
1. Bought that salt meter
2. Added 3 bags of salt to the pool today (should get me up to 3800-3900 based on 1766)
3. Ordered a genuine Pentair OEM part (4 wire I think, which is fine because my cell has 4 wires) to install instead of the generic after market product. That won’t arrive for at least another week unfortunately.

I may try reinstalling the original flow sensor to 1. Confirm the flow sensor works as it should when the wires are simply twisted together (temporary) and 2. See if I can get it to default to proper temp with the cut wires and 3 new bags of salt in it. Problem was temp check was flashing all 5 lights with green and white wires cut. I think it should be showing 78. It’s all becoming moot. My pool water was down to 63 today. A few warm days this week around 72 but I expect the water temp will fall below 60 soon and I’ll close. Can figure this out next year if I have to. Or buy a new cell worst case scenario. Warranty claim may be an issue as it looks like I forgot to register it. Ugh.
 
Update 10/22/21

Success! Purchased a true OEM 4 wire flow sensor instead of the cheaper after market part I got from Amazon. Installed with 4 wire set up.
Added 3 bags of salt and tested 2 methods. General agreement of 3600ppm with 1766 and the LaMotte Tracer at 3700ppm.

Fired the pump up… and…

C3A788DB-4081-4A4B-9E54-0C377C406751.jpeg

The good news also is that in diagnostic mode it lights up 60% meaning 56-65 degrees Fahrenheit. The Aqualink is showing 62 degrees Fahrenheit so this is perfect.

Feels good to repair this myself. Thanks everyone for their help, especially @JamesW who spent a lot of time.

I hope this thread helps someone else in the future.
 
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