- May 3, 2014
- 62,738
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Chemical Disaster -
- Thread starter LimaBeans
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,738
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The important thing right now is to get your pH in the 7's. TA of 50 ppm or greater. Then be sure to keep 5 ppm FC in the water to the best of your ability.
The tabs in the chlorinator are very acidic and they are why your pH is too low.
The tabs probably also created a toxic low pH and chlorine mix in the plumbing, especially when the pump is off.
Ok, we will discontinue putting in anymore calcium.
Do you recommend a user friendly test kit?
We will help you get the pool back to a good condition. For right now do NOT get in the pool and do not turn on the heater or go swimming in the pool.
Is there a pipe where you can turn the valves do the water does not go through the heater (it is called a by-pass)?
You can pick up a "baby" test kit at Walmart that will allow you test the pH and TA. That will keep you going until you get the "grown up" test kit to really take control of your pool.
PLEASE do not go back to the pool store. They have taken your money and done more harm than good
Is there a pipe where you can turn the valves do the water does not go through the heater (it is called a by-pass)?
You can pick up a "baby" test kit at Walmart that will allow you test the pH and TA. That will keep you going until you get the "grown up" test kit to really take control of your pool.
PLEASE do not go back to the pool store. They have taken your money and done more harm than good
Thank you!
I appreciate everyone who jumped in so quickly to offer advice and help educat me.
We do have a test kit from when we first got the pool. I just never bothered to use it b/c I thought the pool store was safe and convenient.
We will pull it out and give it a try.
I also just ordered the TF100 that others who responded with that kit as a recommendation.
We have turned the heater off and we do have a bypass valve and just turned It off.
Lesson learned the hard way.
Also thank you for telling us not to swim in it b/c they said it was fine to swim in and we have a 5 year old.
I appreciate everyone who jumped in so quickly to offer advice and help educat me.
We do have a test kit from when we first got the pool. I just never bothered to use it b/c I thought the pool store was safe and convenient.
We will pull it out and give it a try.
I also just ordered the TF100 that others who responded with that kit as a recommendation.
We have turned the heater off and we do have a bypass valve and just turned It off.
Lesson learned the hard way.
Also thank you for telling us not to swim in it b/c they said it was fine to swim in and we have a 5 year old.
How often were you taking water to be tested?
Can you take a picture of the tablets "pucks" you were using in your chlorinator?? I'd like to see the brand, etc.
Pucks are bad to use when testing is minimal because of a couple of reasons-
1) They contain stabilizer which builds up in the pool and requires more and more Free Chlorine *FC* to allow the chlorine to work.
2) pucks are very acidic by nature and lower your pH.
3) Some contain Copper (Clorox XtraBlue sold at Costco, for example) which builds up and stains, turns hair green
WE suggest pool owners only use pucks occasionally such as when they *need more CYA Stablizer* or while on vacation if their stabilizer level isn't so high that it sends then over the edge....
Instead of pucks we suggest folks buy either Liquid Chlorine or get a salt water chlorine generator (SWG). Neither add anything other than Free Chlorine to your water.
Walmart sells 10% Liquid Chlorine in the pool section. When folks test and get their level they then use the PoolMath app to determine how much liquid chlorine needs to be added to reach their goal amount.
www.troublefreepool.com
Maddie
Can you take a picture of the tablets "pucks" you were using in your chlorinator?? I'd like to see the brand, etc.
Pucks are bad to use when testing is minimal because of a couple of reasons-
1) They contain stabilizer which builds up in the pool and requires more and more Free Chlorine *FC* to allow the chlorine to work.
2) pucks are very acidic by nature and lower your pH.
3) Some contain Copper (Clorox XtraBlue sold at Costco, for example) which builds up and stains, turns hair green
WE suggest pool owners only use pucks occasionally such as when they *need more CYA Stablizer* or while on vacation if their stabilizer level isn't so high that it sends then over the edge....
Instead of pucks we suggest folks buy either Liquid Chlorine or get a salt water chlorine generator (SWG). Neither add anything other than Free Chlorine to your water.
Walmart sells 10% Liquid Chlorine in the pool section. When folks test and get their level they then use the PoolMath app to determine how much liquid chlorine needs to be added to reach their goal amount.
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com
Maddie
The water may cause skin and eye issues due to the pH and TA being so off.
Now lets explore what we can do to get that water right and the pool safe to swim in. Some questions to help us guide you:
-how close to the coast are you? (general terms will work)
-Do you have any idea how high your water table is in your immediate area?
Now lets explore what we can do to get that water right and the pool safe to swim in. Some questions to help us guide you:
-how close to the coast are you? (general terms will work)
-Do you have any idea how high your water table is in your immediate area?
How often were you taking water to be tested?
Can you take a picture of the tablets "pucks" you were using in your chlorinator?? I'd like to see the brand, etc.
Pucks are bad to use when testing is minimal because of a couple of reasons-
1) They contain stabilizer which builds up in the pool and requires more and more Free Chlorine *FC* to allow the chlorine to work.
2) pucks are very acidic by nature and lower your pH.
3) Some contain Copper (Clorox XtraBlue sold at Costco, for example) which builds up and stains, turns hair green
WE suggest pool owners only use pucks occasionally such as when they *need more CYA Stablizer* or while on vacation if their stabilizer level isn't so high that it sends then over the edge....
Instead of pucks we suggest folks buy either Liquid Chlorine or get a salt water chlorine generator (SWG). Neither add anything other than Free Chlorine to your water.
Walmart sells 10% Liquid Chlorine in the pool section. When folks test and get their level they then use the PoolMath app to determine how much liquid chlorine needs to be added to reach their goal amount.
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
Maddie
In the warmer months we tested weekly. In the cooler months not very often.
Pucks are bad to use when testing is minimal because of a couple of reasons-
1) They contain stabilizer which builds up in the pool and requires more and more Free Chlorine *FC* to allow the chlorine to work.
2) pucks are very acidic by nature and lower your pH.
3) Some contain Copper (Clorox XtraBlue sold at Costco, for example) which builds up and stains, turns hair green
WE suggest pool owners only use pucks occasionally such as when they *need more CYA Stablizer* or while on vacation if their stabilizer level isn't so high that it sends then over the edge....
Instead of pucks we suggest folks buy either Liquid Chlorine or get a salt water chlorine generator (SWG). Neither add anything other than Free Chlorine to your water.
Walmart sells 10% Liquid Chlorine in the pool section. When folks test and get their level they then use the PoolMath app to determine how much liquid chlorine needs to be added to reach their goal amount.
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
Maddie
Not sure how high the water is but we have a well point a little deeper than the pool (approx 6ft) and we don‘t see water in it.
- May 18, 2015
- 356
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I may have missed it in the other replies above, but where is the insertion point for the inline chlorinator? Before or after the heater inlet? You have a picture of that you can share?
.... and ditch those tablets. Too many "other things" in there that you have no control of the dosing.
.... and ditch those tablets. Too many "other things" in there that you have no control of the dosing.
That is good info right there!
For now lets work with what you have to get things set up right:
-test kit-on the way=well done. Do NOT take your water to the pool store any more. Mixing pool stores and TFP does not work well. What kind of test kit do you have now? Use it to test the pH and TA so we have a base line to work with.
-find a local source of liquid chlorine. It might be the pool store. They might have jugs you can put a deposit on to get refills. Get some and start adding about an gallon each late afternoon to keep algae at bay.
-Keep the water moving. You can put some pillow fluff or an old t-shirt in your skimmer basket to help trap some of the yuck to help with the filtering. Just make sure the water can move through it.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry Here is a link to help you get used to TFP's pool language.
We got ya and will get that pool up and running so it is safe for you little one to jump into and use up some of their extra energy!
Kim
For now lets work with what you have to get things set up right:
-test kit-on the way=well done. Do NOT take your water to the pool store any more. Mixing pool stores and TFP does not work well. What kind of test kit do you have now? Use it to test the pH and TA so we have a base line to work with.
-find a local source of liquid chlorine. It might be the pool store. They might have jugs you can put a deposit on to get refills. Get some and start adding about an gallon each late afternoon to keep algae at bay.
-Keep the water moving. You can put some pillow fluff or an old t-shirt in your skimmer basket to help trap some of the yuck to help with the filtering. Just make sure the water can move through it.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry Here is a link to help you get used to TFP's pool language.
We got ya and will get that pool up and running so it is safe for you little one to jump into and use up some of their extra energy!
Kim
You didn’t miss it. You asked a new question.
The chlorinator is after the heater.
There are stickers in the PVC piping.
Attached is the picture of the results from the pool test we just took. The test kit we used is also attached.That is good info right there!
For now lets work with what you have to get things set up right:
-test kit-on the way=well done. Do NOT take your water to the pool store any more. Mixing pool stores and TFP does not work well. What kind of test kit do you have now? Use it to test the pH and TA so we have a base line to work with.
-find a local source of liquid chlorine. It might be the pool store. They might have jugs you can put a deposit on to get refills. Get some and start adding about an gallon each late afternoon to keep algae at bay.
-Keep the water moving. You can put some pillow fluff or an old t-shirt in your skimmer basket to help trap some of the yuck to help with the filtering. Just make sure the water can move through it.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry Here is a link to help you get used to TFP's pool language.
We got ya and will get that pool up and running so it is safe for you little one to jump into and use up some of their extra energy!
Kim
So your TA is very low and your pH is *interesting* in that it is almost pink BUT it is better than totally tanked.
I am going to share some links with you and follow up after the links:
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
First off a small lesson in the difference between TFP's levels and other recommended levels such as printed on the bottle or from the Pool Store:
-TFP's levels are based on science and experiments. There are science journal pages I can share with you if you would like some *light* reading. The main difference is the CYA/FC ratio. Much work was done to see how CYA&FC worked together to find how much of each is needed to have a clean, clear, trouble free pool.
-Pool Stores levels as well as what is printed on pool chemicals bottle-they are still using the levels from way back when. These level suggestions have not been changed since the companies first started. Most of them don't take in account the CYA/FC ratio and how everything works together to maintain a clear pool.
I will say that the pool companies are starting to come around after MUCH work done by "Chemgeek" aka Richard to get the levels suggested brought up to science based levels. It is still a work in progress.
I think you will LOVE the recommended pool chemicals-baking soda??? OH YEAH! You can even buy it in a big bag at Sams or Walmart! How neat is that???
Now work on your pH and TA levels using the above links. I like that I see some FC in your pool.
Oh on your last pool store test how much CYA did they think you had? Not that we put much stock in their tests it will give me a small snap shot.
Kim
I am going to share some links with you and follow up after the links:
What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com
Recommended Pool Chemicals
Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com
First off a small lesson in the difference between TFP's levels and other recommended levels such as printed on the bottle or from the Pool Store:
-TFP's levels are based on science and experiments. There are science journal pages I can share with you if you would like some *light* reading. The main difference is the CYA/FC ratio. Much work was done to see how CYA&FC worked together to find how much of each is needed to have a clean, clear, trouble free pool.
-Pool Stores levels as well as what is printed on pool chemicals bottle-they are still using the levels from way back when. These level suggestions have not been changed since the companies first started. Most of them don't take in account the CYA/FC ratio and how everything works together to maintain a clear pool.
I will say that the pool companies are starting to come around after MUCH work done by "Chemgeek" aka Richard to get the levels suggested brought up to science based levels. It is still a work in progress.
I think you will LOVE the recommended pool chemicals-baking soda??? OH YEAH! You can even buy it in a big bag at Sams or Walmart! How neat is that???
Now work on your pH and TA levels using the above links. I like that I see some FC in your pool.
Oh on your last pool store test how much CYA did they think you had? Not that we put much stock in their tests it will give me a small snap shot.
Kim
What is your TA?
24 would not be a valid reading.
Was it 24 drops?
What is the multiplier?
24 would not be a valid reading.
Was it 24 drops?
What is the multiplier?
It looks like you are in good hands now and on the way to getting the pool back in balance. I can't help myself doing some theoretical forensic chemistry on the situation. Mods, feel free to move this to the deep end if you feel it is off topic.
My guess, like others have suggested is that your pool was quite acidic when you opened it up. Acidic water through your heater has likely dissolved copper into your water.
The pool water being so acidic has affected the calcium test. The test is set up for the normal range of pool water pH, so your sample would have been too acidic for the calcium complex to form with the titrating reagent and gave the false 0 reading. Unless your pool water is pure rain water, a calcium hardness of 0 is pretty much impossible. I think the low calcium is a red herring for now until you get your pH balanced.
With the copper in your water either dissolved from the heater, but also likely as an ingredient of the pucks you were using, the addition of pH up caused the copper to react with carbonate to form basic copper carbonate/copper hydroxide. The colour on wikipedia matches your quite nicely. This is quite insoluble, as you have observed when it precipitated out of your pool. This then clogged your filter and your heater. So first step is getting this copper out of the water. If your CYA level is also high, it might be better doing a drain and refill.
My guess, like others have suggested is that your pool was quite acidic when you opened it up. Acidic water through your heater has likely dissolved copper into your water.
The pool water being so acidic has affected the calcium test. The test is set up for the normal range of pool water pH, so your sample would have been too acidic for the calcium complex to form with the titrating reagent and gave the false 0 reading. Unless your pool water is pure rain water, a calcium hardness of 0 is pretty much impossible. I think the low calcium is a red herring for now until you get your pH balanced.
With the copper in your water either dissolved from the heater, but also likely as an ingredient of the pucks you were using, the addition of pH up caused the copper to react with carbonate to form basic copper carbonate/copper hydroxide. The colour on wikipedia matches your quite nicely. This is quite insoluble, as you have observed when it precipitated out of your pool. This then clogged your filter and your heater. So first step is getting this copper out of the water. If your CYA level is also high, it might be better doing a drain and refill.
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