Copper interferes with the calcium test.
Super low pH also interferes with the calcium test.
Super low pH also interferes with the calcium test.
Chemical Disaster -
- Thread starter LimaBeans
- Start date
DanF
Silver Supporter
- Mar 17, 2019
- 594
- Pool Size
- 12500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I never knew it was possible to have a pH of 0. Learn something new everyday. Those pucks must be very acidic.
We did the math wrong - It was 6 drops and then we should have multiplied by 10.
So the TA would be 60.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,101
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If your test kit is from 2018 as the label states your reagents may be expired.
It is older. We got it from the company who installed our pool 2 years ago.
We ordered the TF100 test kit last night.
Maintain the chlorine at 7 and circulate continuously. Keep cleaning the filter as needed. Vacuum and brush as needed. Post a full set of chemistry readings when your test kit arrives.
pH can be zero, or even negative.
However, the actual pH was probably between 3 and 4, but we have no way to tell for sure.
OK -So your TA is very low and your pH is *interesting* in that it is almost pink BUT it is better than totally tanked.
I am going to share some links with you and follow up after the links:
What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.www.troublefreepool.com
Recommended Pool Chemicals
Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
First off a small lesson in the difference between TFP's levels and other recommended levels such as printed on the bottle or from the Pool Store:
-TFP's levels are based on science and experiments. There are science journal pages I can share with you if you would like some *light* reading. The main difference is the CYA/FC ratio. Much work was done to see how CYA&FC worked together to find how much of each is needed to have a clean, clear, trouble free pool.
-Pool Stores levels as well as what is printed on pool chemicals bottle-they are still using the levels from way back when. These level suggestions have not been changed since the companies first started. Most of them don't take in account the CYA/FC ratio and how everything works together to maintain a clear pool.
I will say that the pool companies are starting to come around after MUCH work done by "Chemgeek" aka Richard to get the levels suggested brought up to science based levels. It is still a work in progress.
I think you will LOVE the recommended pool chemicals-baking soda??? OH YEAH! You can even buy it in a big bag at Sams or Walmart! How neat is that???
Now work on your pH and TA levels using the above links. I like that I see some FC in your pool.
Oh on your last pool store test how much CYA did they think you had? Not that we put much stock in their tests it will give me a small snap shot.
Kim
-Today we bought Borax, Arm & Hammer super washing soda and Pure Baking Soda.
-5 gallons of liquid chlorine from the pool store (2.5 jugs)
-Bought new filter but did not put it in
-Cleaned the current filter
-Downloaded, subscribed and logged our home test results into the Pool Math app.
-Turned OFF the inline chlorinator
-Bypassed the heater
-Added 1 gallon of the liquid
This mornings our home test showed
(CYA on the last pool store reading was 90PPM)
-2.5 FC
-7.0 pH
-60 TA
Pool Math app for TA says:
Current TA - 60
Add 27oz or 1 lb, 11 ox
By weight of baking soda to reach your target
Pool Math app for pH says:
Current pH - 7
Target pH - 7.6
Current Alkalinity - 60
Add Borax
58oz or 3lbs, 10oz
By weight to reach your target
Are the recommendations actually or do we need to calculate something with the numbers?
I would add 5 lbs baking soda to increase the TA.
Your high CYA is affecting your TA reading. The actual TA is really about 30.
Increase the TA to 90 until the CYA can be brought down significantly.
Maintain the fc at about 7.
I would not add washing soda or borax.
Circulate and do routine maintenance as needed.
The pH will come up on its own. I wouldn't worry about raising the pH.
Your high CYA is affecting your TA reading. The actual TA is really about 30.
Increase the TA to 90 until the CYA can be brought down significantly.
Maintain the fc at about 7.
I would not add washing soda or borax.
Circulate and do routine maintenance as needed.
The pH will come up on its own. I wouldn't worry about raising the pH.
Last edited:
You really need to remove the tablets because they are wet and they will continue to dissolve. It will get very toxic inside the feeder. Open the valve for a while before opening the feeder to flush it out so that you don't gassed by chlorine gas.
Be very careful removing the tabs because there will be chlorine gas in the feeder.
Put the tabs somewhere safe to dry where pets or kids cannot get to the tabs.
Make sure that the heater is turned off completely.
Even while bypassed, the pressure can activate the heater to turn on, which would be very bad.
Even while bypassed, the pressure can activate the heater to turn on, which would be very bad.
A couple more questions....
Attached is a picture of our pool now. The cloudiness is beginning to clear a little but there is residue or powder that is settled at the bottom. When we sweep it, it moves easily but settles again. Any idea what caused it? What we should do to get rid of it?
Attached is a picture of our pool now. The cloudiness is beginning to clear a little but there is residue or powder that is settled at the bottom. When we sweep it, it moves easily but settles again. Any idea what caused it? What we should do to get rid of it?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,101
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I suspect it is the chemical reaction precipitate indicated above. You will need to vacuum it out and dispose of it by cleaning the filters.
It's probably mostly calcium carbonate with various copper compounds.
Adding sodium carbonate and calcium chloride at the same time combines calcium and carbonate together, which causes the precipitation.
As indicated, you can vacuum and rinse the filters.
If you can vacuum to waste, that would be even better.
Adding sodium carbonate and calcium chloride at the same time combines calcium and carbonate together, which causes the precipitation.
As indicated, you can vacuum and rinse the filters.
If you can vacuum to waste, that would be even better.
But, not anywhere indoors. The tabs will give off toxic chlorine gas until they dry.
Cwiggs
Gold Supporter
- Aug 31, 2019
- 298
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I would love to read the journal pages, can you send them my way or post them here?
Thanks!
Since you have a little one I would bag them up and throw them in the outside trash. It is not worth saving a couple of bucks.
Kim
Kim
@Cwiggs Here is a link to what he has posted on TFP from the journals:
www.troublefreepool.com
You can do a search for Chem Geek for find even more wonderful stuff from him!
Pool Water Chemistry
This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...
www.troublefreepool.com
You can do a search for Chem Geek for find even more wonderful stuff from him!
When you say vacuum to waste - We have had our robot out of the pool. Are we able to drop it back it to clean up the precipitation?
Similar threads
