- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,449
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Filling up pool for the 1st time
- Thread starter ellislo
- Start date
I don't have a SWG so cannot help with this but will reach out to someone who might be able to guide you with this. @JoyfulNoise
When I test my pool pH, the reading observed immediately is always a level lower than the reading observed after say 5-10mins.
Example, I got a reading of pH7.2 right after pH indicator mixed with the water sample. I kept the sample, with the lid still on, for say 5min later, the reading became pH7.4. So do I take the pH reading as 7.2 or 7.4?
Example, I got a reading of pH7.2 right after pH indicator mixed with the water sample. I kept the sample, with the lid still on, for say 5min later, the reading became pH7.4. So do I take the pH reading as 7.2 or 7.4?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,449
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I have read the CSI article. With SWG, I need to maintain my CSI at 0.00 to -0.30 to prevent scale build up at cell plates. By playing around with poolmath, I need to have:
pH 7.8~8.0
CA 300
to achieve the desire CSI range above.
my question is, will pH8.0 pose any problem? Is it absolute critical to have CSI at the above range, even though I have maintained my pool chemical level based on TFP recommendation?
pH 7.8~8.0
CA 300
to achieve the desire CSI range above.
my question is, will pH8.0 pose any problem? Is it absolute critical to have CSI at the above range, even though I have maintained my pool chemical level based on TFP recommendation?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
A pH of 8.0 is fine if the other parameters that effect CSI (TA, CH, and water temp) are in good ranges or perhaps slightly low. Then it all compensates. That's why the PoolMath too and APP are so valuable because by entering all those numbers, it does the work for us. But remember, for the regular residential pool owner, there's no need to get overwhelmed with CSI as long as you keep all your levels within the TFP ranges. Hope that helps.
@Texas Splash @kimkats Thanks guys! my water temperature is between 84-86 deg F throughout the year.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
In that case, you would want to keep a close eye on the pH and overal numbers in the PoolMath tool or APP. As water temp increases, especially over 80 degrees, it influences the CSI and usage of chlorine. So a pool's ability to develop scale if the pH gets too high, or grow algae if the FC drops too low, become more of a threat. With each season you begin to see this pattern in your pool and know how to adjust. Just stay close to the PoolMath tool/APP and always reference the FC/CYA Levels. Have a great day.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,153
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Looks good. I bet it was a tough battle getting your CYA up to 70 with trichlor. Good job!
? yes.... I am almost there, should finished the 7th pack of 1kg Trichlor this week. Then will be fully on SWG next week.
My pool is fully on SWG now. I have a question:
Chlorine dosing with SWG using the following under a bright sunlight (high UV):
1. Pool return nozzle
2. Sprayer
I suppose option 1 will be more effective as the FC exposure to UV are very much less, whereas option 2 is less effective as the FC in the droplets when being sprayed out from the sprayer have higher exposure to UV. ?
Chlorine dosing with SWG using the following under a bright sunlight (high UV):
1. Pool return nozzle
2. Sprayer
I suppose option 1 will be more effective as the FC exposure to UV are very much less, whereas option 2 is less effective as the FC in the droplets when being sprayed out from the sprayer have higher exposure to UV. ?
The sprayer will also cause your pH to rise so that is another vote against it. BUT when the water gets too warm the sprayer run at night will cool your water down some and it fun to play in!!
I actually want my pH to rise. Currently pH at 7.4, I am targeting pH 8. I can’t use Soda Ash to raise it as my TA already at 70. So I have to use the sprayer to raise it.
Maybe I should run my SWG in the evening with the sprayer, to reduce FC lost to UV.
In summer time over your place, how warm can the water get? Over here, my water temperature is always between 84-86 degree F, which is just nice for me ?
Maybe I should run my SWG in the evening with the sprayer, to reduce FC lost to UV.
In summer time over your place, how warm can the water get? Over here, my water temperature is always between 84-86 degree F, which is just nice for me ?
Currently, I am only feeding my pool with chlorine from SWG. I read that the pH will drift up with splashing of the water during swim, but my pH seems like driftzing down, is this possible? And does running the SWG depletes the salt contain in the pool?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you are adding significant fill water or rain water, that can effect pH.
Salt is not depleted by the SWCG. It only leaves the pool by you removing the water from the pool.
Salt is not depleted by the SWCG. It only leaves the pool by you removing the water from the pool.
There has been light rain daily for a few days now over here. So this might be the reason. Thanks for highlighting!
