Small bugs on top of water
- By socra
- Everything Else
- 3 Replies
What are these little bugs? My chemicals seem to be pretty good (ph a little high), but chlorine is good (I think k for my cya). They are tiny, and in little clusters of 5 yo 7 of them, and even after I feel like I skim all of them out, there's a whole bunch back the next day.
Solved ... Confer Steps Floating Somewhat
- By VinnyinNJ
- Above Ground Pools
- 5 Replies
Last year I Macgyvered our Confer step system and it was solid enough but it wasn't on a base and it was just so we could get into the pool for the 2 to 3 weeks it was going to be open. Drilled a couple of holes in the steps to help eliminate air when submerging the steps and thought I got it right.
Fast forward to this year, I installed the outside pool step base, put the ladder on it and low and behold when we stepped on the first step the system would float up slightly; as soon as you reached the second step it was fine. I believe it's because the first step is slightly cantilevered away from the step base and it causes the step to rise slightly on the opposite end. Confer's way with dealing with it is to add sand into the base - no! not having free filled sand in base to escape into the pool. Also, not making it heavier to get out of the pool in the fall. Unlike some steps or ladders the Confer Step system is all closed plastic sides and unlike their pancake steps no ledge to put weight.
Watched some videos about it and they all talk about 3 or 4 inch filled PVC attached to the steps/ladder with zip ties or whatever. Except for one which I saw last year but I didn't save it and couldn't find it again. They did use the 3 or 4 inch PVC piping but they slipped the piping behind the step and held with plastic pipe hanger strap. Great idea! I started pricing out the items and I decided not to use 3 or 4 inch PVC pipe so I improvised a little and came up with using 1/2 inch PVC and hang the plastic liquid chlorine jugs from the PVC. Since you can't see the jugs it doesn't matter but I would think the 3 or 4 inch PVC would look better if you can see them assuming you use clear primer and glue.
My materials are not unique but at least for the Confer steps it holds them down and you can't see them. For anyone interested who needs a fix to floating steps this is what I used.
- 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC used as hanger, you can use larger PVC if you want to fill the PVC but don't forget the caps. I bought a 5' length of pipe thinking we would need 4 jugs but 2 worked fine so they are available 2' long as well.
- 8 x 3/4" Stainless steel sheet metal screws. Probably should have gotten marine grade but just bought whatever they had at Lowes. I used 2 screws per hanger.
- Plastic pipe strapping - https://www.lowes.com/pd/7-16-in-to-7-in-dia-Plastic-Adjustable-Pipe-Hanger/1244183 You can make the opening to hang the PVC as large as you like with this.
- Pea pebbles - small enough to use a funnel, I've read that they are slightly heavier than sand - probably doesn't make much of a difference. Used less than 1 bag for 2 1 gallon jugs. If using larger diameter PVC some people mixed concrete and pour it into the PVC.
- Liquid chlorine jugs to hold the pebbles. I found they feel sturdier then water jugs. I used 2 and put them on 1 step, can add more to add more weight to other steps. Probably can use laundry detergent or any sturdy bottle that has a handle that can fit the PVC pipe through.
I measured the step width (27"), measured the 2 bottles side by side width (13"), cut the pipe to have overhang on both sides (19"), measured how long I needed the pipe strap to be (11" long bit probably should have made it 13" long). I marked the pipe where the ends of bottles side by side would stop (13") and attached the straps about center on the step using these marks. For the Confer steps there is one ridge of the step that is behind the riser, putting a screw on the top hole and 3rd hole in the hanger I used gives you a screw on the top and back of the step, line up the holes on the bottom of the strap when screwing in (bottom and 3rd from bottom) to keep it even and supported by both screws (this is where I screwed up and may fix it in fall when the steps come out). The loops of the hangers are below the step, the pipe can slide into one hanger, put the 2 jugs on the pipe and slide the pipe into the other hanger, make sure you have enough overhang on both sides - done. Larger filled PVC tubes work the same way. In the fall I can take the jugs off to make the inside steps lighter even though they are still heavy when filled with water.
As I'm writing this it sounds like overkill and it may be. We would not be pleased to strap jugs/PVC pipe to the outside of the steps because of how it looks so we wanted whatever to be hidden. Yes, jugs are ugly but you can't see them with our steps and they are free; I wouldn't use flimsy jugs after feeling how heavy 1 gallon of pebbles is. Filled PVC pipe is definitely a better look.
I know every so often AG pool people look for how to keep their stairs from floating, if anyone looks for how to stop Confer steps from floating this is what I did and will probably work for other steps as well. Sorry, I didn't think to take photos as I was doing it!
Fast forward to this year, I installed the outside pool step base, put the ladder on it and low and behold when we stepped on the first step the system would float up slightly; as soon as you reached the second step it was fine. I believe it's because the first step is slightly cantilevered away from the step base and it causes the step to rise slightly on the opposite end. Confer's way with dealing with it is to add sand into the base - no! not having free filled sand in base to escape into the pool. Also, not making it heavier to get out of the pool in the fall. Unlike some steps or ladders the Confer Step system is all closed plastic sides and unlike their pancake steps no ledge to put weight.
Watched some videos about it and they all talk about 3 or 4 inch filled PVC attached to the steps/ladder with zip ties or whatever. Except for one which I saw last year but I didn't save it and couldn't find it again. They did use the 3 or 4 inch PVC piping but they slipped the piping behind the step and held with plastic pipe hanger strap. Great idea! I started pricing out the items and I decided not to use 3 or 4 inch PVC pipe so I improvised a little and came up with using 1/2 inch PVC and hang the plastic liquid chlorine jugs from the PVC. Since you can't see the jugs it doesn't matter but I would think the 3 or 4 inch PVC would look better if you can see them assuming you use clear primer and glue.
My materials are not unique but at least for the Confer steps it holds them down and you can't see them. For anyone interested who needs a fix to floating steps this is what I used.
- 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC used as hanger, you can use larger PVC if you want to fill the PVC but don't forget the caps. I bought a 5' length of pipe thinking we would need 4 jugs but 2 worked fine so they are available 2' long as well.
- 8 x 3/4" Stainless steel sheet metal screws. Probably should have gotten marine grade but just bought whatever they had at Lowes. I used 2 screws per hanger.
- Plastic pipe strapping - https://www.lowes.com/pd/7-16-in-to-7-in-dia-Plastic-Adjustable-Pipe-Hanger/1244183 You can make the opening to hang the PVC as large as you like with this.
- Pea pebbles - small enough to use a funnel, I've read that they are slightly heavier than sand - probably doesn't make much of a difference. Used less than 1 bag for 2 1 gallon jugs. If using larger diameter PVC some people mixed concrete and pour it into the PVC.
- Liquid chlorine jugs to hold the pebbles. I found they feel sturdier then water jugs. I used 2 and put them on 1 step, can add more to add more weight to other steps. Probably can use laundry detergent or any sturdy bottle that has a handle that can fit the PVC pipe through.
I measured the step width (27"), measured the 2 bottles side by side width (13"), cut the pipe to have overhang on both sides (19"), measured how long I needed the pipe strap to be (11" long bit probably should have made it 13" long). I marked the pipe where the ends of bottles side by side would stop (13") and attached the straps about center on the step using these marks. For the Confer steps there is one ridge of the step that is behind the riser, putting a screw on the top hole and 3rd hole in the hanger I used gives you a screw on the top and back of the step, line up the holes on the bottom of the strap when screwing in (bottom and 3rd from bottom) to keep it even and supported by both screws (this is where I screwed up and may fix it in fall when the steps come out). The loops of the hangers are below the step, the pipe can slide into one hanger, put the 2 jugs on the pipe and slide the pipe into the other hanger, make sure you have enough overhang on both sides - done. Larger filled PVC tubes work the same way. In the fall I can take the jugs off to make the inside steps lighter even though they are still heavy when filled with water.
As I'm writing this it sounds like overkill and it may be. We would not be pleased to strap jugs/PVC pipe to the outside of the steps because of how it looks so we wanted whatever to be hidden. Yes, jugs are ugly but you can't see them with our steps and they are free; I wouldn't use flimsy jugs after feeling how heavy 1 gallon of pebbles is. Filled PVC pipe is definitely a better look.
I know every so often AG pool people look for how to keep their stairs from floating, if anyone looks for how to stop Confer steps from floating this is what I did and will probably work for other steps as well. Sorry, I didn't think to take photos as I was doing it!
Bleach & acid wash
- By CapMReynolds
- Algae - Prevention and Treatment
- 15 Replies
Mods - please move this thread if it's not in the right spot.
I have not been in a good place in the last year and left my pool in an icky situation - algae world. Last year chemicals was too much and i tried to keep the the pool clear but by the middle of summer (in AZ -- that's 100-110o+ territory) I couldn't prevent the pool from turning (something was eating the chorine) and I ran out of money. The last few months, ducks and ducklings have enjoyed the pool more than we have this season. haha
I am looking to try to restore the pool and when I was talking to my normal pool people here and they said because I have left the pool for basically 10 months, that I should do a bleach wash (and acid wash for stains) but when I called their service they said that they don't do it now because it may cause cracks if they do it and won't do it until the fall. (Personally I'm thinking they don't want to do it in the heat...)
However, is this true? If so, what would cause the cracks? If not, I would be planning to do it during the early morning/late evening when it's cooler.
If I am able to do it, what exactly would I need to do? I assume after draining the pool, I will need to (from what the pool people said) pour bleach on the walls to kill the remaining algae and scrub the walls, then after a while, clean the same way with the acid wash. I suspect I would need to change my sand too, which I was planning on doing anyways as it's been about 5 years since I have done it.
Am I on the right track? Any information would be appreciated and a couple of kiddos will be happy
Couriant
I have not been in a good place in the last year and left my pool in an icky situation - algae world. Last year chemicals was too much and i tried to keep the the pool clear but by the middle of summer (in AZ -- that's 100-110o+ territory) I couldn't prevent the pool from turning (something was eating the chorine) and I ran out of money. The last few months, ducks and ducklings have enjoyed the pool more than we have this season. haha
I am looking to try to restore the pool and when I was talking to my normal pool people here and they said because I have left the pool for basically 10 months, that I should do a bleach wash (and acid wash for stains) but when I called their service they said that they don't do it now because it may cause cracks if they do it and won't do it until the fall. (Personally I'm thinking they don't want to do it in the heat...)
However, is this true? If so, what would cause the cracks? If not, I would be planning to do it during the early morning/late evening when it's cooler.
If I am able to do it, what exactly would I need to do? I assume after draining the pool, I will need to (from what the pool people said) pour bleach on the walls to kill the remaining algae and scrub the walls, then after a while, clean the same way with the acid wash. I suspect I would need to change my sand too, which I was planning on doing anyways as it's been about 5 years since I have done it.
Am I on the right track? Any information would be appreciated and a couple of kiddos will be happy
Couriant
Pool Water Valve - Does anyone else have a valve like this?
- By Slpoolowner
- Everything Else
- 5 Replies
The valve that i turn on to add water to my pool is really difficult and wanted to ask the community for their input. Its metal and real pain to turn with my fingers and curious if anyone else has a valve like this and what kind of valve they have upgraded to. Is there a tool that i can use for this type of valve, currently i've been using nose pliers and the valve is soo tight, its bent the nose pliers. Also, closing the valve is super tough and i have to turn it really tight for a trickle of water not to conintue. I've attached a picture.
My pool builder (previous house owners used) are super high-end, and quite reputable, so i was surprised they put in this type of valve.
My pool builder (previous house owners used) are super high-end, and quite reputable, so i was surprised they put in this type of valve.
PVC pressure relief valve?
- By averagejoe
- Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
- 3 Replies
My current setup as built by pool builder has 3 way valve after filter:
1) goes through water temp sensor -> heater -> check valve -> (just installed) CircuPool SJ-30 SWG -> tablet chlorinator (not using for quite awhile)
2) is bypass for everything in #1
I also have suction-side Zodiac MX-6 vacuum cleaner. I have quite long pipes runs, as need all the flow I can get when cleaner is running. That means that I have to partially open bypass valve after filter.
It usually works fine with heater on (although I bet less efficient probably). I've just installed SWG (CircuPool SJ-30) and at low flow rate it would gather a lot of air/gases to the point where it senses low water level in the SWG and stops.
Right now I am planning to order valve actuator to install on the 3-way valve after filter to open it up only when the cleaner is running. But I was wondering if there is a better solution available.
I've removed both cartridges from the builder's installed chlorinator, so I don't think it affects flow that much. The larges bottleneck in flow is probably the heater.
What I really need is to keep same pressure no matter what speed my VS pump (Jandy ePump 2.7hp) is running. I was thinking a pressure relief valve after 3-way valve would solve it. So it always keeps flow through the #1 route above, but if pressure increases - it would gradually opens up #2 route. On the picture it is circled X is where in the path I was thinking to put it.
Quick google search did not uncover anything like that used for pools. And I was wondering if there is clear flaw in my thinking or perhaps it is viable and someone already done something like that?
1) goes through water temp sensor -> heater -> check valve -> (just installed) CircuPool SJ-30 SWG -> tablet chlorinator (not using for quite awhile)
2) is bypass for everything in #1
I also have suction-side Zodiac MX-6 vacuum cleaner. I have quite long pipes runs, as need all the flow I can get when cleaner is running. That means that I have to partially open bypass valve after filter.
It usually works fine with heater on (although I bet less efficient probably). I've just installed SWG (CircuPool SJ-30) and at low flow rate it would gather a lot of air/gases to the point where it senses low water level in the SWG and stops.
Right now I am planning to order valve actuator to install on the 3-way valve after filter to open it up only when the cleaner is running. But I was wondering if there is a better solution available.
I've removed both cartridges from the builder's installed chlorinator, so I don't think it affects flow that much. The larges bottleneck in flow is probably the heater.
What I really need is to keep same pressure no matter what speed my VS pump (Jandy ePump 2.7hp) is running. I was thinking a pressure relief valve after 3-way valve would solve it. So it always keeps flow through the #1 route above, but if pressure increases - it would gradually opens up #2 route. On the picture it is circled X is where in the path I was thinking to put it.
Quick google search did not uncover anything like that used for pools. And I was wondering if there is clear flaw in my thinking or perhaps it is viable and someone already done something like that?
EDIT: Bypass Causing Bubbles?? | Heater Bypass Saves $20/mo | ~40-50%
- Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
- 9 Replies
The clickbait title is comparing the cost to run my pump at 40gpm (say for solar) for 8 hours a day at around $0.35/kwh. In reality, for most of us running at a lower speed with cheaper electric (currently around $0.13 here), that's only a small savings. However, I wanted more pressure in the spa jets and more flow through the solar without running the pump so high.
The flow was monitored via FlowVis and the power was monitored via a Klein CL900, which doesn't have the most precise range at low current (one decimal point), so the bottom range of the pumps isn't as precise.
I also plumbed in a tee for a temperature sensor and one for a poor man's acid injection because I like the ideal of small doses rather than large swings every handful of days (borates helps a ton with the frequency though). I didn't have room for a check valve and a 3 way valve wouldn't work without adding a bunch of elbows. Just couldn't think of a better way to do this! Figure if I get an intellivalve for the bypass, I'll just put it on the bypass valve to open and partially close for heater mode, leaving the heater always open.
Also, the pump now has to run at about 1800RPM to close the solar VRV, which is now all the way up to 45GPM and only ~400w so $10/mo if run for 6 hours a day all month long.
The flow was monitored via FlowVis and the power was monitored via a Klein CL900, which doesn't have the most precise range at low current (one decimal point), so the bottom range of the pumps isn't as precise.
I also plumbed in a tee for a temperature sensor and one for a poor man's acid injection because I like the ideal of small doses rather than large swings every handful of days (borates helps a ton with the frequency though). I didn't have room for a check valve and a 3 way valve wouldn't work without adding a bunch of elbows. Just couldn't think of a better way to do this! Figure if I get an intellivalve for the bypass, I'll just put it on the bypass valve to open and partially close for heater mode, leaving the heater always open.
Also, the pump now has to run at about 1800RPM to close the solar VRV, which is now all the way up to 45GPM and only ~400w so $10/mo if run for 6 hours a day all month long.
