Last weekend, I had a heavy bather load so I used 2 bags of Leslie's Fresh N Clear non-chlorine shock. I have a SWG, pool installer set to 85% and left it at that when they abandoned me. My pool is about 5-6 weeks post fill.

Today on testing, Free and combined chlorine by FAS-DPD is 9.2, had been running just under 5 prior. I did the simple OTO test also and sample turned dark yellow.

Is this an artifact of the oxidizer in the Fresh N Clear. I found one forum entry alluding to this. Do I need to do anything about this? Reduce SWG or leave it alone and let chlorine return to normal levels?

Thanks as always, Jim

My Circupool SI-45 cell is on its last legs. Has anyone dealt with Salt Pool Store - The Experts in Salt Water Chlorine Systems ? If so, what is your opinion of them?
They list replacement cells at a much lower cost than Discount Pools.

I installed my first pool (Intex 18x9x52 XTR) about a month ago. I did my best to level the ground and the legs support using regular and laser levels. The pool is on compacted crushed granite covered with R-TECH panels and thick tarp. For leg support I used 4-inch thick concrete retaining wall blocks. I checked and rechecked using regular and laser laser levels and could not see anything wrong. Once I filled the pool, all was good except one corner that was about 1/2"-1" lower than the rest (just the corner, not the legs). I suspect it was probably because I did not expect the liner to reach that far, so maybe the base ground was a bit unleveled in the corner, but not 100% sure. I thought it would do for the first season, but today I noticed that the connecting rod that is close to the lower corner bent, the bottom of the leg shifted by about 1" and the corner went lowered by another 1/2"-1".

I rechecked the leg support blocks and they seem leveled:


The rod under the second leg also seems slightly bent, but not nearly as bad. Any ideas why this happened and what I should do short of draining the pool, redoing the corner and installing a new rod?

Hello. Looking for advice. We have had a large concrete pool put in our garden in Spain via a professional pool company. Upon filling the pool the water will not reach the top step without almost entirely covering the skimmer. Although water is still circulating no debris is being sucked in. The pool company are telling me it's fine to cover the top step and skimmer will still work. I do not believe this and with water under top step skimmer is already 3/4's covered. Firstly is it normal for top step to have no water reaching it and do the skimmers appear in the correct location. Pool company are adamant it's been done correctly but common sense is telling me otherwise.....

Should/can the FAS/DPD test be done using the magnetic stirrer, or just swirling by hand? New pool owner with water going in today. Thanks.

I'm a pool professional who's been dealing with a pool with high demand for years. The pool is just over 40K gallons. There's a spa attached to the same system as the pool that's just under 1K gallons. Sanitation is provided by an IC60. During the heavy parts of the swimming season, I have to run the generator at 100% while its in pool mode and 20% when it's in spa made. I have the spa set to run for 5 hours from 7p to midnight, and then it runs on the pool the rest of the time. I have a very hard time keeping the chlorine levels at the 7.5% of the CYA level on this pool. I have to manually add Sodium Hypo every week to both bodies of water or the chlorine levels just keep falling. The pool gets used A LOT. They basically open their pool up to their church and people from the church use it often, so the bather load is very high. I know I don't have some sort of biological issue, because this is only an issue when school is out. Once the use of the pool goes down, I have no trouble keeping the FC up where it should be and can turn the generator down to more reasonable levels. Because of the way the pool builder designed the equipment pad, adding any sort of additional chlorine feeder is difficult. Currently, there's no room in the plumbing for an additional SWG, and because the equipment is below water level and the single pump nature of the design of the system, I'm not confident in accurately controlling the FC with a liquidator.

BUT, due to issues that don't need explained at length here, I'm going to be replumbing the equipment pad to fix some hydraulic issues the builder created in the way he built the system and installing a variable speed pump and eliminating a second pump the builder was using to run half the spa. Also, because the builder didn't put any kind of equalizer line in-between the pool and spa, the chemistry is often different in both bodies of water and I basically have to treat them separately.

So, here's my question; What can I do to either increase the chlorine generation in the pool, or reduce the chlorine demand? My local Pentair rep is pushing Bioshield, but I'm well aware of how UV is looked upon in outdoor residential pools on this forum. I will say that this pool has an automatic cover and it's kept closed a lot, so maybe the UV would help reduce the demand enough that the SWG could keep up? Since I'm replumbing the entire equipment pad, I'll have the freedom to do as I please for additional sanitation now. My initial thought was to add an additional SWG and have one run at a fixed level and the other controlled by the automation. I'm concerned that if I turn it down enough to work with the spa, it won't do enough for the pool. I'm pretty confident that I can't have both of them controlled by the automation system without upgrading the control board in the automation (It's an old Easytouch8), but I think that's going to be a hard sell due to the expense, plus Pentair is phasing out the EasyTouch8 and wants us to upgrade the boards to the new IntelliCenter systems. As I've said before, I'm concerned about the liquidator working due to the equipment being nearly 6' below the water level in the spa, and 3' below the pool water level. I'm also concerned about control since there's no equalizer line, trying to get it set to a level that works for both bodies of water seems impractical.

I'd love to hear any ideas anyone might have for how to deal with this.

Who would believe in MICHIGAN you cannot find No. 20 Silica sand !!!! Can I use HTH pool filter sand ? Need help thank you

The CYA just won't go down or do I just have bad info/luck? I was under the impression that maybe I'd lose 1-3ppm a month. Tested in May (Memorial Day) the CYA was at 70 when I first opened the pool, today the CYA is still at 70.

I shake the test bottles for a whole minute and let it rest for 20 seconds and shake again for a minute so that I am not getting testing errors. I even pour back the solution from the eye-ball beaker into the bottle, shake it up and get a second reading. Always at 70.

Since opening the only thing I've been strictly using 10% LC. Except for 1 bag of 1lb 58% Cal-hypo and that was because I was going away for a week so wanted to bring the FC to near 30 and didn't have any more jugs of LC on hand.
I always try to keep the FC at or above 6-7ppm, the water is clear, it's good, it feels soft and great. I haven't had the need to add any pH increaser or TA just because those levels are within range.

Do I just have bad luck or am I under the wrong impression that the CYA is supposed to dissipate 1-3ppm over a few weeks/months?

My Jandy AquaLink RS is giving me fits! Noticed my programs weren't running at the set times. When I reviewed the Schedule in iAquaLink, there were duplicates and missing "circuits" that I had programmed. I've removed them all and tried to add them back with new start and stop times but its all wonky. After programming the activities, I reviewed them only to find out that times are for other programmed activities. Anyone else come across this? Help!

Hello Everyone,
Just moved to Arizona from the PNW. Love the desert! I haven't had a pool to care for since 1990... a lot has changed since than, way too many chemicals, and new products every pool owner must have. What happened to Acid, and Chlorine as the main chemicals to keep a pool happy?
I have a Pentair saltwater pool and for the last 3 months have been trying to get things in balance...which is a balancing act.
Several times I've had questions, and Google brings up TFP, so I decided to join and hopefully get some sound advice, as well as share my experiences, both positive and challenging.

Hi all! I've been monitoring my pool remotely and noticed it has a significant leak. I still have 10 days left before I make it back home.

I've turned off the pump for now but unsure if I should be trying to look for a repair company remotely or if I should have my friend constantly refill it.

They had filled it about half way up the skimmer line and about 2 days later it looks significantly below the tile line.

Any tips on what to do? Maybe get a cover to cover the pool for now?

Image below of current level. It was half way at the skimmer 2 days ago.

Hope I can get some suggestions here.

I have a plaster in-ground pool with a floor cleaning system. Being as I live in the Phoenix area, occasionally we receive dust storms which occasionally rise to the level of a haboob. Our house (and pool) back to a wash on the edge of the metro area, and we are usually the first to get hit with these storms. Long story short - they can deposit a huge amount of dust/dirt/sand into the pool. The in-floor system is more or less incapable of dealing with this much dirt - it takes 3 or 4 days to start becoming even remotely clean, due the the high power floor jets just sending the dirt all over the place instead of sucking it into the filter. This leads to a load of manual brushing toward the drain with minimal success. Afterward, an immediate cleaning of the 4 huge canister filters in the 40k gallon housing needs to be done. Needless to say, this stinks.

Dirt uptake is the easy part - I can use a manual or robotic vacuum attached to the filter basket intake. What I want to include if I'm able, is a pre-filter filter if you will. It would reside inline between the vacuum and filter basket intake. That way I can dump the dirt into that filter before it continues on into the primary filter, and I can occasionally stop and relieve the single filter of its contents. But I'm not certain of the best type to use. I'm not sure it I should use a sand filter, a canister filter, or another type. I'm looking for something that will filter most of a large quantity of mostly fine dust - 'moon dust' if you will. I'm hoping it is fairly portable, easy to clean, and hopefully inexpensive. Being able to use a standard pool hose is a plus.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

Hello everyone! My husband maintains our pool but the one issue that we have not resolved since we first installed is the Pentair bright white light our builder chose for our system. I see that we can purchase the color changing option for $500 each (we would need 2) which just is not in our budget right now. Has anyone found a lens cap that can fit on the 1.83” fitting then be able to manually change out the lenses to other colors? I am looking for options but I have not found anything. Any ideas? Thanks so much!

New motor: HSQ125 | Centurion Pro Pool Motor 48Y THP 1.25

Old motor:
See attached picture

Went out this morning and checked the cell panel only to see hot. That's a first. Flashing generating light and 'hot'. Cycled off to on and it cleared. Double checked the plates but they were pristine. Guess I need to keep an eye on it.
Edit. Hot warning back on when I came back home tonight. Flashing generating light and 'hot'.
Off back to auto reset it and stayed off. Readings with everything functioning normally.
3300
91
25.5
6.96
40p
AL-0
r 1.59
t15

Hello,

My scheduling programming on Pentair ControlPro doesn’t seem to control the Pentair Intelliflo Whisperflo VSD anymore.

I can only turn the pump on or off manually. It always worked before. The electricity went down a few days ago, maybe some kind of reset?

Settings on the ControlPro seem right (time, date, prog mode on filtration menu). It does control the PH device correctly, so maybe it’s a setting in the Intelllifo Whisperflo VSD?

Connection is okay, I see the connection symbol.

Why would I have not needed to add acid to my pool? My ph has been perfect. Last year I needed to add acid weekly which I thought was normal with a swg.

Hey everyone, I have not posted in quite a while but I wanted to share this bypass that I made yesterday. I originally purchased an Impresa bypass by a big online company and it arrived cracked. This brand felt really thin and cheap, not something that I felt could last long term. I ended up and sent it back and decided I will just pony up and pay for the original Pentair bypass from the same company but different seller (I am sure you'll know who I am talking about). This seller listed it as a Pentair product, even posted the original Pentair picture, linked it to Pentair's website etc. At over twice the price as the Impresa I was getting the original one right? Well once it arrived I was shocked to see I was sent the another Impresa from a different seller. At this point I was fed up. I sent it back and then decided to make my own. I took a chance and looked for 2" male unions online and compared the threads to my Pentair IC40 and took a gamble on ordering them once I felt I had the correct unions. These arrived yesterday and they were the correct part to make my bypass.

I found that my 7" miter saw along with an aluminum blade cut through the 2" PVC with no chipping and smooth as butter, way better than using a hacksaw. But if you do not have a miter and most people do not a hacksaw or PVC cutter will work just fine. As you will see this turned out very well and the total cost for me was just under $12.00. This was due to the fact that I had a piece of 2" schedule 40 PVC laying around from a previous project as well as the paint. If I did not have the 2" PVC and the paint then the total cost would have been more than the Impresa but a higher quality that should last for many years if not more since this is the same PVC used on all the pool plumbing. You will also have left over 2" PVC and paint for a future repairs, etc.

I purchase the male unions online at Leslies and being a pool perks member I received free shipping. No way you can go wrong here.

I have attached photos and if this helps out just one person I have done my job here.

So I've been trying to check my levels and the last week all of a sudden I'm getting no color change. I have a k-2006 which says if there's no color change keep adding more powder but I added a ton and it never changed. I added more chlorine and retried and it keeps refusing to turn pink.

Now my DPD powder is white, no clumps, not brown not purple, nothing. I got a new kit for this summer ( I checked the date when I got it) and it was working just fine no more than 10days ago. I store the kit inside our house. I took my water to Leslie's and the chlorine is at 2.8. our PH is high but I added soda ash a few days ago bc it was reading low which apparently was wrong too. This is my third year taking care of the pool thanks to this forum and I'm so confused. Everything online about bad powder says it changes to gray or purple if it's bad. So I'm confused if something else is out of whack and messing with it or it's bad?

I keep lowering my ph with muratic acid and it goes to 7.6 but then in the next day or 2 It's backup to 8 or higher. This is the first year. We have had a salt water pool. And I read that sometimes it's harder to keep the PH down salt water generators.
My cya is at 60 and I keep the fc at 7
My alkalinity is 80
What am I doing wrong?

So, I have a new theory for pool robots. It seems like the failure rate has gone up significantly in the last few years. My M500 is still going strong but it seems like an older generation of devices. My Aiper SE has failed twice already. Also for the most part when they are out of warranty they are fundamentally unrepairable. These are basically consumable throw away devices. This conclusion is based on anecdotal evidence and not real data but I am going with it.

So rather than fight it lets treat them as such.

The last item that sealed the deal is my Betta 2 is currently experiencing some issues. I bought the extended warranty from them, not the Assurion warranty. The unit is about 15 months old. So now, I can send it back to Betta be without the unit, have them repair it to some functional form (all at no cost to me), but it is still not new. They did offer for about $300 I could upgrade to their current unit. Had I bought the Assurion warranty for about the same price as the Betta warranty I would be getting my money back and could go buy whatever new robot I wanted. The turn around time is faster, cheaper, and I get a new robot.

From now on I will only buy robots where I can buy an Assurion extended warranty. Currently this limits me to Amazon, but I am hoping someone with a relationship with Marina can convince them to start offering these warranties.

I get a similar set of protection from the fancy credit cards but they typically only extend a year, and that is probably not enough.

I originally posted this in another thread regarding an AA treatment another TFP'er is going through but I felt it warranted it's own thread specifically.

If anyone is concerned their fill water or auto-fill water has Iron in it, you can do a 5-gallon white-bucket test with your water.

• Iron in water (without ANY chlorine) will be in a solution state, meaning it's invisible to the eye.
• Iron in water (with chlorine added) will go into a suspension state, meaning it's visible to the eye (caveat: assuming NO sequestrants are in the test water)

So fill up a white bucket with water (make sure there is NO chlorine yet in the water!), and take a picture of it. Then add in 1TBS of 12.5% chlorine and mix thoroughly. This will raise your FC levels to around 22-25PPM roughly which is SLAM level or higher for most people, which should force any iron in that water to come out of solution and go into suspension, turning the water an ugly yellow/brown (within an hour or so). If that happens, you KNOW you have Iron in your fill or auto-fill water.

Here's my side by side comparisons. One 5-gallon bucket that has iron in it, one 5-gallon bucket that doesn't have iron in it (because my dual Water Softener removed the iron through an ion exchange process).


From 8:55am
Left Bucket: Filled from Well, and passed through 4 13x52 iron filters.
Right Bucket: Filled from Well, and passed through 4 13x52 iron filters and through dual tank Water Softener





From 9:15am (20 mins later)
Left Bucket: Filled from Well, and passed through 4 13x52 iron filters, and 1TBS of 12.5% chlorine (mixed)
Right Bucket: Filled from Well, and passed through 4 13x52 iron filters and through dual tank Water Softener, and 1TBS of 12.5% chlorine (mixed)





From 9:55am (1 hour later)
Left Bucket: Filled from Well, and passed through 4 13x52 iron filters, and 1TBS of 12.5% chlorine (mixed)
Right Bucket: Filled from Well, and passed through 4 13x52 iron filters and through dual tank Water Softener, and 1TBS of 12.5% chlorine (mixed)




Note: The FC is 23PPM in the 2nd and 3rd picture, and STILL no changing of the color in the 5-gallon bucket that was filled through my Soft Water system. (yes, 23PPM, I verified/tested with my Taylor kit)

I know it's not scientific but, anyone that wants to check for Iron in their fill/auto-fill water, can EASILY do this and not have to pay for testing (and we also know LOTS of people "test' for Iron and get results of 0ppm even though they have Iron in their pool, proven from Vitamin-C testing on the stains they have!) So I feel this test is more accurate than some of the actual iron "testing" done by stores or labs and basically costs *nothing* ... If anyone thinks this iron-test isn't valid please add your input, I'm no science wizard and plenty of smarter people on TFP than I am.

Hope this helps some people.

EDIT: Crud, I can't remember if it was 1TBS or 1TSP that I added. Please note. In hindsight I'm thinking maybe it was a TSP (the smaller amount).
2ND EDIT: Clarifying I'm using a 5-gallon bucket.

Coming off a slam and slowing my Fc to naturally float down. I do need to balance the chemistry tonight but my testing this morning is ;
FC is at 22 ppm down from 31-33 during the slam.
Cc is zero
CYA is at 80.
The PH is 8
The rest were ok before the Slam and I don’t think they matter much until my FC floats down to about 11ish.

My kids will be out this weekend. Is this FC level ok to swim in? I am thin I read you can swim in slam levels and I this is below that level.

I Plan to swap some water to lower Cya a bit so I can drop my FC levels.

I have a Jandy pool system that I have been disappointed with for some time now. I would like to replace the whole thing, but don't want to get a new system that is not compatible with other components. I do most of the work myself. My pump has pretty much bit the dust and needs to be replaced. I cannot find a Jandy stealth pump anywhere. Is Jandy out of business? Also my saltwater generator is also on the fritz. Is there any recommendations for a system that is dependable, available parts, etc. I would like a controller that is compatible with other equipment. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hey everyone I seem to have an algae problem that literally sprung up on me. I have had my chemicals balanced all summer with no issues and then all of a sudden boom I have algae. I am always very diligent about maintenance when it comes to my pool so I was baffled to see that I had an algae bloom.

Pool Specs:
Bestway Oval Above Ground Pool: 17x10x42
1hp Aquastrong Pump
12 inch intex sand filter
Hard Plumbed

Long story short after a few years my intex pump died and I replaced it with a larger pump. I knew that going this route that the filter was more than likely going to be too small for the pump and therefore I may have issues with filtration. I do not have an in depth testing kit just a basic kit that tests the ph and the chlorine levels. When this bloom started I triple shocked the pool and brushed the pool. 48 hours after shocking I vacuumed the pool and the water is still green. My chlorine levels are through the roof and my ph level is super high at the moment. My take is that after all this time my filter has finally failed and is no longer filtering correctly due to the power of the pump possibly breaking something in the filter. Just needing some insight here could it be my filter? Everything else seems to be working fine. I have good circulation and plenty of chlorine in the pool, but the algae just doesn't die. I am guessing my filter is no longer filtering correctly. Also, I took apart my sand filter and the laterals looked fine. The only thing I noticed was my sand level was super low so I added sand to it. If I did need a new filter would a 19inch be sufficient? Thanks for all of your advice!

I have done the SLAM process twice now this season. I have read the article on Mustard Algae... "Mustard algae is a particularly persistent kind of algae, that appears to go away when you SLAM the pool normally, only to reappear as soon as you come back down to normal chlorine levels." This seems to be what is happening in my pool. I began the MA process after my second SLAM.

Couple of questions: Seems like my FC levels drifted down during the MA process, at times it was difficult to maintain, but I always added more liquid chlorine. Since it hasn't always stayed at 19 for CYA of 30, should I extend the 24 hour period?

My test results this morning are: FC 23.5, CC .0, pH 8, TA 120, CH 250, CYA 30. Which brings my CSI to .55. Should I bring the pH down or wait until I'm done with the 24 hour period? My pH during most of the 24 hour period has been at a level within range... I have a few more hours left of the 24 hours. I'm still seeing slight algae drifts on the stairs and some in the deep end. Is this dead MA? I don't want to take any chances of this coming back... this stuff is a PITA! Especially since we have a short season here in Minnesota... and this season, I've been battling algae issues for half the season!

I appreciate your advice!

Edit: Since the my intellicenter thread and this one got merged, I'll put the intro/description of the construction thread up in this post (repeated below):

I'm a new member...but wanted to share the photos from our build! We own a small farm (2.4ac) on Vancouver Island (Canada). We decided to have an in-ground pool built in part of our field. It will be a 38x16 pool with a sun ledge on stairs. It's a steel frame with vinyl liner. Our pool builder picked all the equipment with the exception that I wanted an IntelliCenter so I could have a bit more automation control. Pool will be heated (propane) and will have a automatic cover (Coverstar) installed.

We got on the list with our builder in March 2022 (with an expected started in 2023). Engaged with a designer in fall 2022 to start planning the whole project. We finalized a design in early 2023, submitted permits to the municipality which finally got approved in May. We broke ground June 16. We are hoping to get the liner installed in September (weather permitting) - but if the liner doesn't arrive (or the weather doesn't cooperate) then we may have to wait until Spring 2024 for the liner.

Click to expand...

IntelliCenter post:

We have an IntelliCenter with Load Center for our pool install. The electrician is coming in next week to start running the electrical to the equipment room. Are there any reasons we *shouldn't* just use the IntelliCenter Load Center *as* the sub-panel from the house? Our pool builder doesn't use these (but I insisted) - and the electrician hasn't installed one. So his standard setup would be a feed from the house to the equipment room to a sub-panel that feeds the pump, gas heater, pool lights etc. He plans to run a 50a from the house panel out to the equipment room.

Given that the load-center can act as a sub-panel for non-pool items (like some additional plugs around the pool and landscape lighting) - should we just use that to save some money? Or are there benefits to just having a proper sub-panel between the house and the IntelliCenter (or drawbacks to just using the IntelliCenter)? I read in the manual that it's limited to 10 additional single-pole circuits. Which would be fine for what we are planning.

There are numerous posts on here about frequent failures for the Hayward Colorlogic 4.0 color-changing LED lights. My pool's Colorlogic light lasted around 7 years of very light usage before finally failing which seems pretty good! However, the pricetag for a direct Hayward replacement was ~$900. I decided to try the Florida Sunseeker "Pooltone Standard 16 Color LED Pool Light" which currently runs between $500-$600. I was curious to see if pool lights were one of those situations where "you get what you pay for" or whether Hayward was ridiculously overpriced. I was also unable to find any reviews, so I am posting this to help others that may find themselves in the similar situation of replacing a Colorlogic 4.0.

First off, the FL Sunseeker website promises fast shipping and they definitely shipped same day via 2-day FedEx from FL to NY. This was far faster than I expected. Off to a good start! The light arrived in good shape and was well-packaged.

When comparing the Sunseeker Pooltone to the Colorlogic unit, I noticed a few immediate differences:

• The Pooltone uses a metal enclosure where the Colorlogic is mostly plastic. In terms of fitment into a niche, the plastic is superior as it is molded which allows for a very precise fit into the niche.
• The power cable on the Pooltone is slightly thinner than the Colorlogic. The thinner Pooltone cord was a lot easier for me to snake through the conduit and I doubt the conductor was any thinner. Both cables seemed very adequate for a 50' run of 120V AC to a 35W LED light.
• The Pooltone has a domed shape that appears to house a regular style lightbulb, whereas the Colorlogic is a very flat shape without a servicable bulb. It may be possible to replace just the bulb in the Pooltone upon failure but I'd have to check with the manufacturer to be sure.

I ran into several unexpected problems during the install that were all able to be overcome or ignored. Here they are:

1) The Pooltone enclosure appears to be made of a coated/plated ferrous material (i.e. iron or steel) rather than a quality stainless steel. If you set this directly on your concrete, you can expect to scratch it. I noticed a few scratches that had immediately began to rust when exposed to salt pool water. It's a little troubling to have rust already forming on a housing that will be submerged in a salt water pool. I wonder how long before a hole rusts all the way through it? I chose to ignore this for now.


2) A clamp holds together the 2 parts of the light housing (bezel with backshell). The clamp screw protruded out to the very edge of the fixture and caused some rubbing on the niche during install. This made it hard to get it properly aligned into the niche on install. Consequently, I cut off most of the screw to help with clearance. This step may not have been 100% necessary as I was also struggling with the power cable slack & the next issue below. It is possible I just got confused.


3) The Pooltone did not fit properly into the same niche that the Colorlogic 4.0 fit into. Specifically, if I had the Pooltone unit low enough in the niche for the bottom "catch tab" to be in place, then the Pooltone mounting screw hole was too low to mount into the niche. If I lined up the mounting hole of the Pooltone with the niche mount screw, the Pooltone would sit just a little too high for the bottom catch tab to be in place. This meant the bottom of the Pooltone was able to swing freely outwards out of the niche. To solve this, I drilled a new hole in the Pooltone flange about 0.25" higher. This ensured everything lined up perfectly by allowing the Pooltone to sit low enough for the bottom catch tab while allowing you to screw in the single top mounting screw.


Once the issues above were dealt with, the Pooltone sat nicely in the niche and worked properly. The Pooltone LED light is just as bright and dynamic as the Colorlogic 4.0:


Overall, I am happy with the Sunseeker Pooltone product. At this point, I don't regret the purchase and feel that it was a decent budget option. I'm not sure why I ran into issues with mounting the Pooltone into the niche. I suppose it is possible my niche is not compatible with the Pooltone light. I was unable to find the part# for my niche. My logic is that if the Pooltone can replace the Colorlogic in a variety of niches, then it should be able to replace the Colorlogic in my niche. Who knows!

Let me know if you have any questions, and I'd be happy to try and answer.

I imagined my first post here on these forums would be more technical than this, but here goes:

I just bought my first test kit, a K-2006C and am curious about a funky smell... is it just the new kits plastic components off gassing or could something in there have spilled, and is it a problem?

None of the reagents look as if they are missing any volume, the kit seems clean... is this just new plastic smell that will pass in a few days (it's fairly potent) or is it likely some chemical leaking out that I should store in the garage? All things equal id prefer to store the test kit in conditioned air space and not the garage, but would be fine to let it offgas in there if that's what's going on.

Thanks in advance!

Good morning everyone. We had a big storm come through last night causing a power outage and when the power came back on I could not start the pump from the easy touch control panel. Also I was not able to connect through screen logic. On the pump screen I can control the pump manually and it works fine. Other components in the easy touch are also working, just not the pump. I have gone into the pump settings on the easy touch and it shows not connected. Is it possible the power outage blew out the COM port on my control board? I'm trying to figure out how to diagnose this so any guidance is appreciated. Thank you